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 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jT1yIFmiPA This is after running it through the parts washer and then WD40 (to rinse off the water-based degreaser). Looks like I get to put in an order for a new planetary too.
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Jan 28, 2022 01:07
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Send it! don't send it
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Jan 28, 2022 03:07
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Oh I'm sending it to a future AISS recipient Got a six-pinion planetary ordered. Very glad I don't have any pressing need to have two running cars right now.
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Jan 28, 2022 04:28
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I dunno, I’ve had brand new transfer case bearings that sound like that out of the box until they were coated in gear oil and then they become buttery smooth.
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Jan 29, 2022 06:40
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Perhaps, but the fact that even after a long stint in degreaser / parts washer I was still getting gray liquid coming out of it tells me it ate a lot of metallic oil. The only bearing surface I'm not replacing in this whole thing at this point is where the hub/sprocket assembly rides on the rear output shaft, and that has the benefit of being the only one I can truly split completely to clean out. There was pulverized RTV in there too, clearly pushed in by the pump. I am going to add a drain valve to this when I'm all done and probably do overzealous fluid changes for a while until I'm certain any possible contamination is gone. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 07:01 on Jan 29, 2022 |
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Jan 29, 2022 06:59
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Still haven't been assed to put the case back together but at least I have all of the parts I need. I did have a Hal-changing-a-lightbulb moment, though. Tires on the cart we use in the back yard were low. Looked for the tire chuck for my air compressor, can't find it because the 231 is taking up half a garage bay on its own. Remember TJ has an onboard compressor, go to use it. Compressor doesn't come on with the switch. Grab multimeter to troubleshoot. Discover pressure switch has failed open. Bypass switch and it works and start airing up tires on cart. Battery on TJ is well under 12V for not being started in ages. Crank it up and shortly after notice fresh drips under the front. loving radiator is leaking at the bottom end tank. Guess all of that gets to come out again.
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Mar 7, 2022 02:42
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 Not too bad going back together, aside from making my hands numb with all the loving hammering. That's everything in the case so far, tomorrow I'll get the rest of it together. Radiator should show up tomorrow too.
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Mar 9, 2022 06:26
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No photos because it was one of those "just loving push through and get something done" days. Transfer case is sealed up and back in the Jeep, replaced the output shaft seal of the transmission while I was at it. Everything seems to be working though the shift action of the transfer case is... less than ideal. According to forum posts I managed to miss before deciding to get the 2Low, this is apparently common. I have a new center console to put in so when I pull the old one out, I might see about removing the detent on the shift lever because it seems like part of the issue is fighting against that.
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Apr 4, 2022 03:45
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So far no major new issues with the TJ, and annoyingly the radiator leak that I ordered a new radiator... hasn't shown back up yet. I'm still going to end up doing it. Out of nowhere the other day when I started it up, air conditioning was blowing out of the defrost vents only. No reaction to any mode changes, at all. TJs have a vacuum-actuated HVAC setup, so I figured odds were good that it was a vacuum leak. Popped the hood...  Yep, that'll do it. Annoyingly this wasn't a "pulled out" scenario, there's a tiny stub of the hard plastic vacuum line (something like 1/16" ID) wedged into the tiny stub of rubber hose coming out from the firewall. I spent a few minutes trying to get it free but it wasn't budging and I didn't want to risk more catastrophic failure that would require tearing the Jeep down to the firewall on the inside. Found a random length of rubber vacuum line in the garage that had a regular ID small enough to be able to clamp down around the plastic hardline, and thick enough walls that I was able to drill the end with a 5/16" drill bit so that it fits over the OD of the stub coming out of the firewall. Like so:  I'm hopeful that leaving it looped like that provides enough strain relief to keep the 'press fit' end from working loose. I'll probably still end up doing some research to see if it's at all possible to feed a new vacuum line through the firewall there without stripping the interior, because as to be expected for a 20 year old Arizona Jeep, everything rubber and plastic is fragile. It does indeed hold enough vacuum to operate the mode door again, so success for now.
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May 11, 2022 07:03
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I can't recall for sure but you might be able to just snake that one through over the HVAC box. Can you pull the glovebox or dash top cover without disassembling the everything?
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May 12, 2022 18:48
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Glovebox itself drops out without any tools, but the upper dash cover is a more involved removal. I think you're right in that I might be able to just cram something through if needed. I expect I'll need to find something more rigid because trying to do that with the vacuum line I have on hand would be pushing rope. The general failure mode of "broken vacuum line" in this area is extremely common from looking through TJ forums. Usually it breaks off a few inches away from the firewall though, so there's not much talk of anyone trying to solve that specific issue. Decided to work on something much more modern today:  Just shy of 50 hours and I've got a sizable amount of work coming up with it so better to get the service done an hour early instead of five hours late. Engine oil, oil filter, hydraulic oil filter, transmission oil filter. The latter two are literally the same system but it has two filters for... reasons? For extra fun one of them is literally plumbed straight to the sump so it tries to dump it all out when you pull the filter. But that poo poo is a) expensive and b) not due for replacement for another 350 hours. So I grabbed a new drain pan, changed the filter as quickly as possible, and dumped the fluid from the drain pan right back in. Only other annoyance is the fact that the lower radiator hose is literally crammed against the engine oil filter, so getting the new one to line up just so is annoying. Gonna send an engine oil sample to Blackstone for shits and grins.
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May 12, 2022 21:23
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Sample came back on the Kubota and all looks in line with expectations. I'll probably do another sample at the next change, which at the rate I use this thing probably won't be for another couple years.
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Jun 1, 2022 18:03
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Hmm, why isn't the Jeep starting? That'll do it. That's actually the wrong-but-close-enough size Optima red top that came in the Opel, and was drat near new when I got said Opel. Even after putting it on a charger overnight, Autozone's tester says "okay but needs a charge", meaning it's trash. I did pull the alternator and have that tested too since it was only hitting ~13.2V after running for a few minutes but apparently that's still good so I'm sending it until it isn't. So the battery in the TJ now is the one that actually came with it, a 2018-date-coded Walmart special that has been sitting in the garage with no load but no charger for a couple of years. It also seems healthy enough for the time being. I also suspect that the "mod" I did back in January 2021 may have contributed IOwnCalculus posted:
As time has gone on, it has been getting harder and harder for the switch to not end up in the accessory position after turning off the Jeep. Since I literally never use that, I decided to just wire up a relay to disable it. If I ever need to change my mind on this I can just put a small wire splice back in. No photos because I was sweating to death, but here, have a MSPaint wire diagram.  No more coming back to a Jeep that has the radio sitting silently waiting for a BT connection.
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Aug 27, 2022 23:51
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FWIW, depending on the PCM charging logic (if the alternator is controlled by the PCM instead of a stand-alone VRM), you may see the voltage go back up once you have a healthy battery in it. Also, a shorted cell (not quite sure how an Optima would work in this case) would draw the voltage down. Particularly if it's a lower amperage alternator. When the Vic's battery was on its last legs, I was seeing 13.1-13.3. With a new battery, it's a solid 14.4 again. That's with a 200 amp alternator that puts out almost 100 amps at idle. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Aug 28, 2022 |
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Aug 28, 2022 00:09
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Fair point. This one hasn't had a slow crank since I put it in, but I figure I'll be stopping at Costco for a new battery sooner or later.
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Aug 28, 2022 00:23
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Been doing a slow/long-term flush of the cooling system on the TJ, in preparation for a radiator swap. The poo poo that came out on the first, second... fifth... eighth? drain was pretty goddamn nasty but now it stays mostly looking like water.  I decided that if I'm pulling the radiator, I might as well pull both the power steering cooler (it's leaking a bit and I want to replace it with one using AN fittings) and the grille itself so that I can repaint it. Despite the FSM insisting otherwise, there's absolutely no reason you can't pull the grille while leaving the condenser in the chassis and the A/C system sealed. I do think that when it goes back together, I'm going to reroute the wiring that normally goes inside the top of the grille, to the engine side of the grille. That means in the future I should be able to remove the grille itself just by unbolting the cooling stack from the grille, unplugging the headlights, and removing the bolts. That would save me removing the headlight trim rings, headlights, headlight buckets, and fishing wires across from the passenger side back to the driver's side. Mostly I see that being extremely handy the next time I have to do a power steering box, because getting at the power steering fittings with the grille in place suuuuuuucks.  The grille itself. The flash is absolutely highlighting all the worst spots, like my awful quick-spray-paint "touchups", but it really does look like poo poo with two decades of rock chips and sunburn. Tomorrow if I get time, I'm going to sand it, prime it, and spray-bomb it something decidedly not black. I'm not aiming for "show quality" or even necessarily "good", just "uniform" and "not poo poo". The bar to look better than it does now is pretty low.
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Oct 2, 2022 04:39
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Between seasonal allergies kicking the poo poo out of me (I will go years with no symptoms and then all at once), a persistent threat of rain in the desert, and luxury bone repair, I've been itching to get things done and haven't done a goddamn thing. Finally changed that tonight. Spent a bit over an hour sanding (with the wrong sander but whatever) the cracked/chipped/completely sunfaded paint as much as I could to get an even-ish finish, and then hit it with a can of Ace brand rust-stopping primer. It's not perfect by any means and I expect to see some horrors in it in the sunlight tomorrow, but it's already far better than it was before.  Tomorrow, a quick scuff with a sanding sponge, another wipedown, and then I'll hit it with some paint. Oh and no photos because I plain forgot, but while looking over the Jeep to see if it got any hail damage... I realized the passenger door wasn't closing all the way. As in the window frame was fully outside of the rest of the bodyline, because it was hitting the windshield frame. Discovered that there's an adjustment in the bar that runs from the roll cage to the windshield frame and maxed it out, which was maybe another 1/8" longer than the bar already was. Now it actually closes. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Oct 18, 2022 |
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Oct 18, 2022 02:07
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IOwnCalculus posted:Discovered that there's an adjustment in the bar that runs from the roll cage to the windshield frame and maxed it out, which was maybe another 1/8" longer than the bar already was. Now it actually closes. Even though soft top Jeeps are virtulaly unsealed, I bet that makes a difference with wind noise.
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Oct 18, 2022 12:08
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Even though soft top Jeeps are virtulaly unsealed, I bet that makes a difference with wind noise. You weren't wrong, it definitely helped. It's one of those things that as soon as I saw it I don't know how I missed it... but then I suppose I said the same thing when I realized the cab mounts on the C10 had sagged by an inch. Jeep is mostly back together. Haven't bothered to reinstall the trim rings because the chrome is flaking off in chunks and I'm hoping to get my hands on some replacements soon. The paint is far from perfect but it's much better than before and I like the color. I think I'll do the cowl panel next and then the hood after that.  Also, might be improving the reliability a bit with some overnight parts from Japan. 
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Oct 26, 2022 21:29
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New Koito headlights?
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Oct 28, 2022 06:50
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i think it looks pretty good without the chrome rings. kind of reminiscent of the recessed headlights in the MB/M38/M38A1
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Oct 28, 2022 06:53
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Gonna agree with Raluek there. Maybe paint the rings black if you really do want them? or hot pink
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Oct 29, 2022 03:39
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Advent Horizon posted:New Koito headlights? Yup, to be installed at some point in the near future because the look of these robo-eyes LEDs isn't doing it for me anymore. STR posted:Gonna agree with Raluek there. Maybe paint the rings black if you really do want them? or hot pink This was actually the plan, except instead of sanding all of the flaky chrome off of the factory rings:  Black plastic rings exist and a pair showed up for my birthday like magic. Spray paint has been holding up pretty well so far, I'm happy with it. Hood and cowl are next on the agenda at some point. However, the ignition key has been feeling a bit spongy, and occasionally turning the key to "start" doesn't actually do anything. I had a suspicion it was the cheap no-name ignition switch actuator I put in not quite two years ago:  And I was right. I was expecting to see a fracture instead of a twist but either way. No-name on the right with a twist, new Dorman on the left. I'm at the point where I want to start modeling the part out in CAD to get a replacement made. The only reason the end (where it either breaks or twists) is U-shaped is to accommodate a plastic pin that just serves to tell the car the key is in, so it can yell at you when you have the key in the ignition and the doors open. But I have the door switches disabled and have no intention of changing that. So I've installed the Dorman part without any of the extra springs and the key indicator pin, and nothing else seems to be problematic. So if (when) this Dorman replacement fails, I want to have a solid replacement that's strong enough to hold up. I suppose I could fill the cavity with JB weld but I think part of the problem is that everyone uses pot metal or other cheap castings, instead of machining the part out of something tougher.
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Nov 28, 2022 07:42
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Meanwhile (as in, literally the same day I did the work in the last post), let's take a minor diversion for An Experiment In Science And Art. First, the Science. I want to weld things, but the things I can get my hands on readily are zinc-coated and I would rather not die of welder's lung. So, let's strip the zinc.  A few spoonfuls of citric acid crystals in the water and a few minutes later, things are fizzing gently.  While that works its magic, thinking it was going to be a few hours at most, I grabbed a couple chunks of rebar that have been  More fizzing, though not as much as I'd like and this is already a few hours in. My wife helpfully points out that I could've added a lot less water and ended up with a stronger solution, so I dump what's there and do just that.  Since I had the luxury of time I also let it sit for 24+ hours and now it looks like it's properly stripped all the zinc off.  A quick wipedown and yep, just plain steel now.  Time to assemble some new toys.  And amazingly, I was able to glue some metal together. This is fluxcore welding so this is after a lot of wirebrushing already. But for this project I have no intention of using a grinder and paint to hide my sins.  Let's add the rebar from earlier with some horrendous welds. Decide where the third nut should go, looking for something good in the hand but not excessive.  Running out of light, but cut the rebar and ground the ends down to keep everything where I want it.  The next afternoon - more welds, more grinding. Comes out nicely balanced.  Remember I have some sheetmetal in the garage and decide to practice running beads. My handwriting is poo poo, somehow this is slightly better. Also, now I know why everyone goes to the effort of getting a gas tank and running MIG instead of flux-core, holy poo poo.  A few more welds, a scrubdown with a wire wheel to knock off the worst, and this extremely warped Art is ready.
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Dec 22, 2022 03:59
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IOwnCalculus posted:Meanwhile (as in, literally the same day I did the work in the last post), let's take a minor diversion for An Experiment In Science And Art. this rules. most creative aiss entry so far by the way, how do you like the cooper evo M/Ts? im trying to decide between those and the stt pros everyone likes so much was on my way to the jeep thread, but you had them conspicuously framed in your pictures, so thought id ask here too
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Dec 22, 2022 06:32
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Yoo Nice trick for stripping the zinc off. Flux-core is indeed rear end. Its best for field repairs and the like. Get a bottle of gas and you'll be cookin. Welding two different thicknesses like that of the nuts and the back plate is always a bit dicey and will lead to uneven heating, penetration, and warpage. preheating the thicker parts helps. Setting your dwell time to hold the puddle over the thicker parts longer than the thinner parts reduces warpage and gets more even heating into the respective parts. Clamping the hell out of it also works well. (thanks again for the awesome aiss art)
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Dec 22, 2022 17:21
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Raluek posted:by the way, how do you like the cooper evo M/Ts? im trying to decide between those and the stt pros everyone likes so much I like them a lot so far, but they're also the only M/Ts I've ever had. Everything else I've run has been an A/T. These are definitely louder than any of those but there's all kinds of grip onroad and other than the noise the road manners seem fine. Despite being the exact same nominal size on the exact same width wheel (33x12.5R15 on a 15x8) they are noticeably narrower and taller than the KO2s, which I also like the look of to be honest. cursedshitbox posted:Yoo Nice trick for stripping the zinc off. Flux-core is indeed rear end. Its best for field repairs and the like. Get a bottle of gas and you'll be cookin. All that warping was just from me getting way too aggressive on running bead after bead on the sheet  And yes, gas is definitely happening at some point when my wallet isn't crying in the corner. Flux core will be fine for fence repairs and other "it's gotta get done" poo poo for now. The welder will do gas so I just need a gas bottle/regulator/hose setup and some solid wire.
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Dec 22, 2022 17:30
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Don't forget to set polarity correctly when switching to or from gas and solid wire, too. Otherwise you're going to be wondering why your welds look like fried rear end, don't penetrate well, and mostly end up as spatter on the workpiece and floor.
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Dec 22, 2022 21:47
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😂 I love the art. Great job and I'll be borrowing that zinc stripping tip.
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Dec 24, 2022 17:25
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So while driving around town the other day, I started hearing a metallic clanking noise. My gut reaction was that this was somehow either my transfer case or transmission making GBS threads themselves, and I got mad enough that I parked the Jeep for a few days before digging into it at all. Farted around on Youtube and found this video, which seemed to be the exact same noise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2n0ROttFko&t=15s According to the OP, their problem ended up being the centering ball on the double cardan joint on the front driveshaft. Mine is still original and probably ~200k miles with zero maintenance, so I decided to try pulling it off and test-driving. Sure enough, no more noise. The only odd thing is that I expected the failure to be a very sloppy/loose joint, but it's actually got a lot of friction and gets particularly sticky at high angles. Already got a new Adams driveshaft on order. In pulling the front shaft, I pulled the skid plate (IMO it's not worth working around the plate to get at the case when it's relatively easy to drop). I do have a Barnes "bolt on" skid plate sitting here that will provide a little more clearance and a lot more strength, so I decided to try and bolt it on. I was able to get two bolts started on each side but I couldn't quite move the plate far enough back:  It's fouling on the muffler, of all things. I can't find anyone else claiming to have had this problem so I suspect this is the exhaust on my Jeep having been hosed with. It also appears to be stock/original, but the way this joint is flexed out slightly towards the bottom makes me think things aren't aligned quite right:  I'm going to sleep on that and decide what to do - part of me wants to try and get the stock exhaust tucked up better, part of me wants to go "gently caress it" and get an aftermarket catback with a much smaller diameter muffler than the giant factory piece. Oh and because the Jeep still loves to spite me, the leak that I thought was the drain plug on the oil pan, now looks like it's the rear main seal. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 08:42 on Feb 12, 2023 |
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Feb 12, 2023 08:35
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Looks like carbon on the muffler seam. A failure like that can only mean one thing -- the universe wants you to replace the exhaust.
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Feb 12, 2023 13:15
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Has the Jeep received a new driveshaft or any hammering on the exhaust to make poo poo fit? Nope. Why? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1sYbjxRVF98 Air conditioning compressor on the Canyon. It's been making a low / quiet rumbling noise intermittently for a while now, but that rumble has now changed to "completely non functional air conditioning" and it makes a really nasty rattle when disengaging. The weather's nice enough to drive around without A/C, but... in the video above, the air conditioning is off. The compressor spins at ~engine RPM when engaged, and has hosed itself in a way where it's still dragging along with the clutch without the clutch engaged. I've seen the end result of this behavior on two other GM products ('95 SL1, '02 Trailblazer) and it'll end up with a seized compressor causing all kinds of other poo poo. Belt path doesn't look like it'll allow bypassing the compressor so it's been parked. Ordered a boatload of parts Hmm, not how I'd pack a condenser:  Nope, that won't do. The shipping box has no real damage to speak of, they just didn't do a good job of securing the condenser within the box at all.  Already got a return label from Rockauto for this, Autozone has another one on the way to me via Fedex overnight.
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Mar 18, 2023 10:24
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Somebody was laughing when they packed it like that.
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Mar 18, 2023 11:47
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 Seeing as it's 11:30PM, somehow I don't think that new condenser is arriving today.  Bumper and grille off, radiator drained and radiator hoses off, battery out, fender liners out, one of the pipes from the intercooler off. Still need to remove the small lines to the radiator (includes the line to the overflow as well as the transmission cooler lines) and start taking the fan shroud apart/out. Probably need to completely remove both of the intercooler pipes and then I expect I can make some real progress on getting the intercooler/condenser/radiator stack removed. This will also have the side effect of giving me much more room to work on removing the compressor and the one line with a muffler in the middle of it, as well as access to flush everything else.
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Mar 19, 2023 07:36
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It's not a mechanical repair, it's a maintenance opportunity.
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Mar 19, 2023 12:51
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Well between the rest of real life getting in the way with things like "work", "parenting", and "fixing my broke-rear end teeth", this has dragged way past what I thought. But at least tonight I am finally at the point where there are no more parts to remove, just things to clean and replace/install. To catch us up, the second condenser was even more bent than the first. The packaging was identical and this one was shipped straight from a GM warehouse, so clearly GM somehow thinks this is an appropriate way to ship these things.  A third-party condenser shipped from Rockauto was actually packaged appropriately and showed up with no bends, despite Fedex clearly being rougher on this one. In the meantime I got the cooling stack fully removed and some better access to the front of the engine:  I also discovered a very unusual failure mode for the tensioner. The back cap was popped off and wedged between the head and the tensioner bracket. I'm just going to pop it back on and see if I can do a better job of peening (heh) it in than the factory did.  The idler pulley that bolts to the tensioner bracket (not the tensioner pulley itself) was feeling gritty so I looked it up. Somehow it is a part number specific to only the 2.8 Duramax in the Canyonero twins, not even shared with the 2.8 vans. $50 plus shipping, dealership only, with question marks about how available it really is. Measured it and went through the Dayco catalog and found part 89572, which looked dimensionally identical aside from a longer bolt. Because apparently a mounting bolt is a critical part of a pulley now? It at least references a decent number of GM applications, though probably still low volume, but an aftermarket actually exists. Not that it mattered because Uncle Jeff's Shithouse had the actual GM part for $12. It's the same loving pulley with a longer bolt, with the same thread. Unthread the bolt that comes with it and thread in the bolt from your old pulley and save $40. Jesus loving christ GM, why the gently caress is this an issue.      Then there was the upper radiator hose that I wanted out of the way just to give a little better access to things. First time I've ever come across a spring clamp where the access parallel to the clamp / perpendicular to the hose is very poor, but I have a straight (and long) shot at it along the length of the hose. My Astro Pneumatic hose clamp pliers with the head on a cable wouldn't fit here. EGR cooler above, all manner of hoses and wires every other direction.  If you can see that the clamp is already out of place, it's because these pliers did the job through the wheelwell in about 10 seconds. Finally we catch up to today's work. I finally had enough things loosened up to get at this wiring harness, which I discovered was rubbing on the compressor pulley the same day the compressor poo poo the bed.  Upon further research this appears to be the power steering wiring harness. Luckily it's wrapped in split-loom and non-sticky tape underneath so separating the harness was easy. The only wire actually damaged was this ground:  Butt splice and Tesa tape and nobody's the wiser. This will get zip tied well out of the way when I start putting things back.  While removing all of the hoses I never did see any metal fragments or anything in the oil, but I drained the compressor itself for shits and grins into a wiped-clean drain pan.  I'm not convinced any metal actually escaped the compressor but now I'm glad I have everything I need to replace the components that can't be flushed, and the flush kit to handle the rest. I also want to open the compressor up to figure out what happened but the damage to the snout of the compressor might make that tricky. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBrbQr9c9Ak Turning the Torx bolt at the center just spins the compressor, which doesn't feel too awful. But I don't actually have any way of holding the compressor still to get the trashed pulley and clutch off. There's some very real wobble to the pulley, and that belt is loving smoked. I'm hoping I can get things buttoned up ASAP here because we've been driving the TJ as our only working vehicle and it is very unhappy about this.
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Apr 10, 2023 06:32
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IOwnCalculus posted:
It's not an issue, it's intended. The overwhelming majority of the people will just pay for the part, not questioning the value, or lack thereof. There's some kind of lingering trust of companies that people still rely on, without realizing that capitalism and corporations have weaponized against us. Just a little bit of work and you saved on a tremendously overpriced part. It's a win. I did the same thing last week with the ignition coil for my generator. Uses a Subau EX30 motor that has an uncommon coil configuration. Buy it from the dealer all day for $70. Buy it online all day for $50. Start crossing numbers and looking at images on google and found one that matched, and was in crazy Jeff's warehouse for $19. Any money you keep out of the hands of apex predator corporations is earned. Edit: heh. It's a Husky generator, so I just check on HD's site to see what they would charge.  https://www.homedepot.com/p/STENS-Ignition-Coil-for-Subaru-EX27-and-EX30-279-79430-01-279-79430-11-Mowers-058-113/314232577 meatpimp fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Apr 10, 2023 |
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Apr 10, 2023 15:15
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It's probably nothing insidious and something really dumb like it's easier to kanban pulley assemblies with bolts installed rather than the bolts themselves, because at some point some rear end in a top hat will dump a box of long bolts into a box of short bolts and now you have a rash of cracked timing covers and broken tensioners.
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Apr 10, 2023 15:39
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Yeah, it's just infuriating that this even has to be a thing. The part with the shorter bolt that fits the 2.8 is literally only available as a GM part - no aftermarket support at all. For extra GM bullshit, the other idler pulley, which I didn't remove because it feels fine, is loving left-hand thread. Even though it's a smooth pulley and thus spins the same direction as the one I replaced. It also has zero aftermarket support, and can't work with the same trick because the plastic insert in the middle of the pulley is threaded to match the boilt. I also thought about seeing if I could just press the bearing itself out, but the shields they put on it are part of that press fit and I don't see how I could remove them non-destructively.
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Apr 10, 2023 17:41
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| # ? Apr 27, 2024 17:41 |
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Salami Surgeon posted:It's probably nothing insidious and something really dumb like it's easier to kanban pulley assemblies with bolts installed rather than the bolts themselves, because at some point some rear end in a top hat will dump a box of long bolts into a box of short bolts and now you have a rash of cracked timing covers and broken tensioners. Bingo. Everything is build and inventory driven, not repair.
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Apr 10, 2023 22:42
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