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Yes they do, it's the water jacket O ring that does the same job and can fail too 
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May 21, 2013 16:06
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Fucknag posted:What the gently caress is it with American manufacturers and vacuum-operated air distribution boxes? My Blazer's got the same poo poo, and it's so much slower than the mechanical linkages in my Protege. Is it supposed to be a luxury feature or something, a lighter touch on the selector switch? All I know is some German auto did/do it and Australian Ford and Holden do it as well. It might be the light touch thing, as I know all my old cable lever cars get tight and heavy after a while, (if they ever were light in the first place), and there's no way to make a digital control, push button, or a dial like for climate control use a cable lever. So I guess that's what they are/were all aiming towards for some top line models (as a luxury feature), and then used the vacuum system for lower and simpler model designs as they had it ready to go. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Jun 14, 2013 |
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Jun 14, 2013 19:09
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You can't find good people these days... Not suprising because which good people would want to do it for gently caress all pay and stick around for years to get experience? The good ones often move on to management or buy their own shop and eventually get off the tools to grow their business, or move to another career. It's hard enough in Australia where the pay is higher (still the lowest of all trades though). I can imagine it's worse for the chump change US wages and book time in the US.
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Dec 31, 2017 10:20
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:I popped the ball joints on my super beetle by putting the whole control arm (which on a beetle is hilariously tiny) on a couple of planks of wood, wedging some inside the assembly, and lowering the car down and then leaning on it. Popped the ball joint right out. I got one of those but with a less cast look and more hardened tool look. I did my idler arm last week and could only get it 1/4 the way in (no room to hammer it in plus I wanted to save the boot), and that 1/4 way in was mainly on one tooth/side. It still separated the joint and didn't damage the boot and I've used it with susp and tie rods last year, so it's definitely a keeper, and doesn't look bendy when using it and a sharper fork to get in there and seat better. quick pic  Link to aussie store for more clues so someone may work out the same USA retailer or ebay stock http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/ToolPro-Tie-Rod-End-Ball-Joint-Separator/377217
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May 16, 2018 13:01
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Raluek posted:That looks pretty similar to the HF one https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html Dunno, that's different enough that it could have come from a completely different chinese factory and made with different steel/quality.
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May 18, 2018 12:57
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 01:07 |
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Simplest thing is take it to a shop that can pressure test cooling systems. Hopefully no presure drop so HG is OK, but if pressure drop you can see if an external leak is the cause visibly from the rad or external gaskets leaking without heat boiling the coolant off. If it passes a pressure test it could just be the rad cap, thermostat or fan. I know it's paying money to someone else so it's not very AI, but it's a small cost compared to worrying about HG or things not at fault - if you're lucky. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 11:49 on Aug 2, 2018 |
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Aug 2, 2018 11:45
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