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You can consider getting the Nikkor 24/2.8 AF-D, if you want something wider than normal. 24 is a pretty nice focal length on crop too, although I'm not sure if it's within your price range. Don't get the SB-400, you may as well just stick to your onboard flash.
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Oct 2, 2013 23:47
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red19fire posted:So I wanted to get a smallish flash that would work on my d700 and x100 as a fun 'party' flash to use when shooting events, and also fairly cheap. I thought an old vintage flash would work, but almost all of them have trigger voltages that would fry my cameras. Then I stumbled upon an sb-27 on ebay for like $50. Perfect, I thought; a small, unobtrusive flash. You know what the best (worst) thing about bringing old thyristor-auto flashes to social events is? "ARGH I'M BLIND STOP IT!" Really, they tend to bring a lot more light than the small onboard flashes most people are used to today.
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Oct 10, 2013 07:41
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red19fire posted:I don't think its a thyristor, it has an old version of TTL for film cameras that doesn't work on DSLR's. Minimum power is 1/16 though. Sure? Nikon has had a few different hotshoe connections. If it has one additional contact (apart from the center and ground) it just provides a "flash ready" signal for the camera. If it has two extra contacts I think it does "flash ready" and a very primitive kind of TTL; my SB-E has two extra contacts and a mode for the EM camera, I think it does some sort of TTL there and uses thyristor when in "FE/FM" mode. If it has 3 additional contacts it probably does full TTL in their old analog protocol.
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Oct 10, 2013 18:17
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Delivery McGee posted:On the other hand, fast lenses are nice; at 25kISO and f/1.4 you can see in the dark. Or, y'know, shoot indoors with available light with reasonable shutter speeds and no sensor noise. Is there a reasonably-priced (under $300) lens faster than f/2.8 and shorter than 35mm? I love my superwides -- used a 28mm on my OM-1 and 17/18mm on all the DX Nikons. The Zuiko 50mm and Nikon 35mm f/1.8s are great, but I want something a bit wider. I'm not sure you'll find something really fast at that price range, but you can certainly get a Nikkor 24/2.8 for that, if nothing else an older AI-S lens. (Stick it at f/8, focus to hyperfocal, camera in A mode with auto-ISO, never touch any settings again.) But I think you should be able to find an AF-D 24/2.8 within that range too. If you can scrape together the cash, however, check out Sigma's new 18-35/1.8 zoom. Wide-angle zoom at f/1.8, and supposedly it's actually really good.
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Oct 20, 2013 14:20
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But will this "digital FM2" have mechanical shutter? Will it take film? Maybe it's more like DE2 then. (Perhaps the "hybrid" thing they've mentioned actually means mechanical shutter. That would be interesting.)
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Oct 21, 2013 15:53
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Ezekiel_980 posted:So I checked the negatives and its very weird, first 2 are blank then 2 pictures then a long break and then the last 13 exposures are in a nice line. Similar routine on a second roll I used, and all the pictures I remember taking are accounted for. any guesses what would do that? Also me and the friend I was with thought it seemed like we were not getting a lot of shots from the camera. I have had that camera skip frames on the film when the batteries were in poor condition. It's really obvious when that happens, it makes strange sounds and isn't ready for shooting again after exposing and instead wants you to hit the shutter again. It also shows error signals on the display. Make sure you recognize how the camera is supposed to sound with mirror-clap, shutter and motor winding, so you can tell when it sounds wrong.
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Oct 22, 2013 08:24
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Ezekiel_980 posted:So if I can't get it returned then its probably only worth selling for parts? Uh, did you try replacing the batteries first? Cameras with motor drives tend to stop advancing properly when low on battery, and then magically work correctly again when the batteries are fresh.
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Oct 22, 2013 12:38
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His Divine Shadow posted:I've stopped using RAW since I only got my tiny acer netbook and lightroom runs like poo poo on it, don't have the space to store everything on it either. Maybe now that we live in a bigger place I can pack up my desktop and get back to normal. Process them on the camera  (You can do some really basic color balance fixing or slight exposure boost-y things, but yeah it's more or less an emergency thing IMO.)
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Oct 28, 2013 16:39
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If your main goal is memories for the family album then I suppose a super-zoom is okay, as long as you're aware of the limitations. They tend to have quite a lot of distortion, particularly at the ends of the zoom range, and it gets terribly slow at the far end of the zoom too. There's two big disadvantages to the small aperture at the far end, one is that you need more light for acceptable shutter speeds (i.e. bad for indoor sports events, night shooting and similar) and the other is that auto-focus suffers a lot when the aperture gets that small. Consider renting one for a while to see if it works for you. The other alternative is having two cameras, one with a long zoom on and one with a wider lens. Consider whether your phone can work for occasional close-up shots while you have a long zoom on the SLR.
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Dec 4, 2013 02:56
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Musket posted:Heavy Vingetting on a D800 with a 18-55 G kitlens? Is it not automatically going into cropmode with that lens (cuz it should)? Also it sounds like your g/f mom is a terrible sucker. I have some swamp land on the moon id like to sell her. Remind her to apply the 1.6x formula, not the 1.5x that Nikon has. I think it was doing automatic crop, but the optical viewfinder would still be showing the full frame.
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Dec 5, 2013 18:31
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No way Nikon Df is getting a price drop. It has to be competitive with the Leica M Monochrom, you know.
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Dec 10, 2013 01:39
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Solaron posted:I have a D3200 with the 18-55 lens. My daughter dropped the camera and now it only sometimes focuses. Is there something I can do to find out whether it's the lens or the camera that's screwed up? I don't know a lot about this and need to learn more. :\ The motor driving the focusing mechanism is in the lens itself. The camera only interfaces with the lens' focusing motor through a set of electronic contacts, meaning nothing mechanical in the camera body is involved in the focusing movement. (However the body does have some optical and sensor parts involved in measuring focus, but you would probably see something wrong in the viewfinder if they were broken.) It's most likely a problem with the lens.
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Apr 30, 2014 18:53
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Leperflesh posted:On the other hand, I am OK with manual focus. I don't take a ton of action shots - I'm more about landscape, portraiture, and macro. I'd be OK with just owning my one autofocus 55-200 and then manually focusing everything else forever. At least, right now I think I'd be OK with it. Do be aware that D3200 and other lower-end cameras also can't meter with any non-CPU lenses (look for a row of electric contacts in the mount), which means that almost every non-AF Nikkor lens will only work in full manual exposure mode. The screw-drive AF/AF-D lenses will still meter, but the focusing ring may not be well weighted and uncomfortable for MF use. Modern manual focus lenses such as those made by Samyang should be fine though, they do come with CPU contacts for metering/auto-exposure.
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May 1, 2014 21:29
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Colon Semicolon posted:I have an old Nikon EM (unsure of model, the number on the back reads 7820105) and I was wondering if any of the lenses can be used with any of Nikon's digital models? I got this 16 years ago when I won a photo contest, but at the time I had no idea how to use it properly (I was 10 years old, not the best thing to be handing a kid really) so I want to see if anything in the set is salvageable or not. Yes the lenses will work on digital bodies, but if it's a D3x00, D5x00 or other lower-end model you will only be able to use them in full manual mode. Unless you for some reason got AF lenses with a non-AF body, in which case you will be able to use (at least) the auto-exposure modes. (Even then, they'd still be screw drive AF so lower-end digital bodies wouldn't be able to AF them.)
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May 22, 2014 21:46
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pootiebigwang posted:So I took a tumble over the 4th of July weekend and now my 50mm 1.8D is no longer autofocusing. I know it is the lens and not the body as my other lenses are still working. Anyone know of any troubleshooting I could do to get this lens back up and running? I am not devastated or anything as it is easily the most affordable lens to replace, but I would still prefer not to have to spend money if I do not have to. Does the focus ring rotate smoothly? Check for the focus drive screw in the mount. Does it rotate along with the focus ring? If you have more mechanically-coupled AF lenses, check if the focus drive screw protrudes the right amount.
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Jul 9, 2014 17:11
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red19fire posted:My venerable 35mm f2D finally developed the sticky aperture of death, and Nikon doesn't service these anymore. Can anyone recommend an independent shop that does repair this lens, or a decent replacement? I'm not opposed to going wider. Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art"? Or Nikon's own 35/1.8 DX if you don't need fullframe.
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Aug 9, 2014 08:56
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If you absolutely can't spend any money, try getting a version of RawTherapee, at least the older versions should still work on prehistoric operating systems.
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Aug 28, 2014 20:16
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D7000 is still a great camera.
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Sep 22, 2014 21:19
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Bottom Liner posted:Ok, bought the following; Keep in mind the Nikkor AF-S 35mm f/1.8 G is a DX format lens, i.e. intended for crop format cameras. If you use it on full frame you'll get some amount of vignetting at almost any focus distance/aperture combination. It's not that bad, but it is there.
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Oct 2, 2014 20:58
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Huh, never noticed that. Maybe they saw the Sigma and figured they couldn't just sit on their hands. (I'd probably just buy the Sigma anyway, if I was looking for a modern 35mm.)
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Oct 2, 2014 21:23
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As long as you don't try to force it, you won't break anything. I have a home-AI-converted Nikkor-NC lens that won't mount on my D80. It's very obvious it won't mount without breaking a tap off. However it does mount on a friend's D600, and also works fine on my F90x, and meters on both of those.
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Nov 17, 2014 21:45
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The only reason you should really get a D5x00 is for the articulated screen, which is mainly useful for video.
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Dec 23, 2014 18:16
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McCoy Pauley posted:I'm looking at picking up a Nikon 105/2.8 micro to use with my D5100. I expect to be using it only with manual focus, so I'm looking at used 105/2.8 AF lenses, which seem to be be in the $300s used (the new 105/2.8 with VR is not in my price range). I've noticed that AF-D versions of the lens run about $100 more used than the regular AF version. I know that neither of these will AF on my D5100 body, although they would if I upgrade to the 7100 at some point. Two questions: McCoy Pauley posted:2) I'm going to be using this without a flash, at least for now. If I understand this correctly (and it's highly possible that I don't), the difference between AF and AF-D is that a lens with D reports distance back to the camera more accurately (or does the D lens report back distance and the non-D doesn't at all). Is the point of this to help the camera set the flash exposure more accurately, and so a D version of the lens doesn't provide any advantage if I'm not using a flash? Or is an AF-D version of the 105 going to be better in some way I'm not understanding (even without the flash)? The D means that the lens has focus distance reporting, non-D has no distance reporting at all. I believe modern TTL flash with pre-flash metering requires distance reporting while the old TTL method single-flash with cutoff during exposure doesn't explicitly need distance reporting. If you want TTL flash to work you need an AF-D model, otherwise you'll have to use manual flash since D5100 can't use the old TTL method.
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Jan 24, 2015 17:03
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McCoy Pauley posted:About the aperture ring, so I would just put the lens on my camera, set it to F/22 on the ring, and then forget about the ring and merely use the lens like I do any regular Nikon G lens, where I'm using the control dial to change aperture? When would you ever actually use the aperture ring on such lenses -- when you put them on tubes or bellows and therefore have no electrical connection to the camera? Yeah, when you use a "dead" extension tube, or when you use the lens with an old camera body. My F90x (quite good camera) requires using the lens aperture ring in P and M modes, but that means it can't use G lenses properly in those modes, since those lack an aperture ring. Meanwhile my F50 (bad camera) does not use the aperture ring, but only meters with CPU lenses, so it can only use non-CPU lenses in M mode.
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Jan 24, 2015 17:48
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Two things to keep in mind regarding a 50/1.8 lens for D3200. First, make sure you get the AF-S 50mm f/1.8G, and not the AF f/1.8D, the difference is that the AF-S can autofocus on your camera and the AF-D cannot. Second, keep in mind that 50mm is somewhat long on crop sensors, in typical indoors situations it'll only be useful for head-and-shoulders type portraits.
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Feb 8, 2015 12:24
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With the 50 you can take pictures of your baby. With the 35 you can take pictures of your baby, as well as of your partner with the child. 50mm on crop definitely has its uses, but 35mm is so much more useful in general.
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Feb 8, 2015 13:18
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Things you might miss on D5100 coming from D80: - AF screw drive - Top status LCD (the B/W one) - Front exposure wheel (controlling aperture on D80) As far as I can tell those are the only three features that don't have an equivalent or better.
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Apr 2, 2015 10:34
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ISO is basically a compromise between sensitivity and grain/noise. Digital sensor tech has then improved over the years so you can reach higher sensitivities before noise becomes unacceptable.
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Apr 3, 2015 22:32
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Get a macro lens for that kind of subjects. (Nikon brands their macro lenses as "Micro".) You can go for a 60 mm, but consider going all the way to 100 mm, since that gives you more working distance. If you want to go cheap, you could also try the Micro-Nikkor 55 mm AI-S f/2.8 lens; it only does 1:2 scale macro and will require fully manual focus and exposure (only works in M mode) on your camera, but it's a great lens and you should be able to get it cheap. It's the precursor to Nikon's current 60 mm macro. Otherwise consider a Sigma 100 mm macro, they also tend to be good. Also, your photos seem slightly under-exposed. Try slowing the shutter speed by 1/3 or 2/3 stops (1 or 2 clicks) over those.
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Jul 5, 2015 20:14
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nop posted:If you don't mind manual focus you could try the 105mm f/4 AIS. It only goes to 1:2 reproduction (I think that's 1:1.5 on crop), but that should probably be good enough for what you're doing. I think you can find them for about $150-200. The reproduction ratio remains the same regardless of sensor size. The reproduction ratio measures the scale of the projected image relative to the actual size of the objects in the focus plane, so if 1 mm on the focus plane is projected into 1 mm on the camera sensor/film surface, you have a 1:1 reproduction ratio. If 2 mm is projected into 1 mm on the sensor, you have a 1:2 reproduction ratio, i.e. objects on the projected image are half size of their actual size. At the same reproduction ratio, a crop sensor just takes a picture of less of the original object then a full frame sensor does. On the other hand if the crop sensor and full frame sensors have the same pixel count, the crop sensor's image can arguably be enlarged more than the full frame sensor's image, leading to an effectively better reproduction ratio.
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Jul 7, 2015 18:29
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somnambulist posted:So I'm slowly learning how to use a Nikon properly (D4S) and some things are still driving me nuts and I'm hoping you guys have some tips. However you should be able to adjust it without taking your eye from the viewfinder. From the manual:  somnambulist posted:Second thing is focusing- specifically auto focus. On a Canon 5d Mark 3 they have something called spot focusing (I forget if that's the actual name) but basically it targets SPECIFICALLY what's in the small square inside your focus point. Don't know about the flash.
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Aug 8, 2015 21:24
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somnambulist posted:I'll look into the auto focus, I haven't really figured out what auto focus modes do what yet. The manual isn't very helpful beyond basic explanations. Maybe I'll go to the library of YouTube. Hold the AF setting button, use the front wheel ("sub-command dial") to adjust until it says "AF-S S" in the viewfinder.  That's single-point AF in single-servo mode. You should then be able to use D-pad on the back to move the AF point around. The dot/L switch locks the focus point to prevent accidentally moving it with your nose or something.
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Aug 9, 2015 15:48
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Isn't it mostly for the 3D motion tracking to use? I also think it sounds excessive for a user interface. It's fine to have them if it makes tracking more accurate, but the number of selectable points for locking on should probably be smaller, to be easier to manage.
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Aug 9, 2015 18:19
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timrenzi574 posted:Distance information gets used for metering assistance (ambient and flash) more so than any AF advantage Yep. At least some cameras require it for matrix metering, and I think TTL flash also needs it.
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Aug 31, 2015 22:08
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Ika posted:Ah, that explains it. I just checked and the aperture isn't actually set in the lens until you take a photo, I did not know that. If it was, you would see the viewfinder image getting darker when closing up the aperture.
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Jan 28, 2016 21:39
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drowningidiot posted:Apologies if this is the wrong thread for this but I didn't see anything else. So literally nothing happens when you are in M mode, has an AF-S G lens attached, and then turn the dial? Send it for service?
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Apr 7, 2016 10:03
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Medieval Medic posted:Quick question, can a lens have a significant effect on white balance? The lens' effect on colors is generally limited to saturation levels, local contrast and potentially some separation between shades. What I'd say is more likely is that the camera's auto-white balance got confused by some elements that happened to be in some of the pictures, which happens. Chance is, if you shot RAW then you can simply adjust the white balance to be the same in all the pictures and everything will be fine.
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Apr 20, 2016 17:43
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learnincurve posted:It does sound like, as nielsm said, that there is another factor, maybe a lamp or an energy saving light bulb the camera is confused by? True, if you've previously been using slower zoom lenses, and then move to a faster prime, your shutter speeds might get faster than the AC frequency. When that happens, you may catch cheap bulbs that have blinking or pulsing light output during a low phase, where the light is dimmer or even has a different color.
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Apr 21, 2016 16:58
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GrAviTy84 posted:I was recently gifted a D700 but all my glass (save soundmonkey's old 85 1.8D) are dx. Looking for a cheapo zoom to cover kit duty until I can afford better glass. Any opinions on the 24-120mm 3.5-5.6D vs the 28-85mm 3.5-4.5D? The latter is closer to my kit 18-55 vr but the extra range on the former could be useful. I suppose I could use the 18-55 vr in crop mode but idk I wanna buy a thing but don't have a ton of money atm Your 18-55 will cover most or all of the frame from around 24 mm and up, if you force the camera to full frame mode. Edit: Sample shot with my own old 18-55 DX (non-VR) on D700, zoom ring at 24. nielsm fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Jun 19, 2016 |
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Jun 19, 2016 20:35
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AF-S means autofocus with built-in motor. (There's also AF and AF-D meaning the lens requires the camera body to have a motor, D5100 doesn't have that and treats those lenses as manual focus.) DX means made for crop sensor cameras. (Nikon calls their crop sensors DX and fullframe FX.) G means the lens does not have a manual aperture control ring. (Only relevant for film cameras, and only older models. The last film models like the F100 and probably F5 and F6 can use G lenses fully.) ED is something about the coating. When you're having focus trouble, is it in dark or indoor situations, or even outside in daylight? nielsm fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Dec 28, 2016 |
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Dec 28, 2016 16:37
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