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Protons posted:Then I don't know what to do at all Upload some of the "blurry" pictures, preferably with exif data intact or at least telling us what settings used. It'd also be nice to know what lenses you already have. Understanding exposure owns too, everyone should read it once. Finally, if you want a long lens consider saving up a bit more and finding a used tamron 70-300 VC, it'll be nicer than the really cheap nikon zooms and it's only around 300 or 350 used if you look around last I checked.
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# ¿ May 5, 2013 23:52 |
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# ¿ May 8, 2024 21:09 |
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You don't even have to dig, there's several for 320 or so on amazon used right now. e. Also tamron's rebates are processed quickly and easily from what I remember, if you decide to buy new. When I did it last year they were handling the rebates in house, and it was a 2 or 3 week turnaround from when I mailed in the stuff.
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# ¿ May 6, 2013 17:28 |
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Protons posted:Lets say I bumped the budget up to $400. Would that open more options? The tamron 70-300 VC is the king in the under 400 range. King. (Musket's lens for sale is nice too but it won't autofocus on a d3000, pretty sure it's screw drive).
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# ¿ May 7, 2013 00:25 |
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Krock is a Pentax ME fan, so he's cool in my book.
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# ¿ May 8, 2013 19:04 |
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I've used the Tamron 70-300VC, it's a very good lens for the price. Better than the cheap nikons, comparable to the more expensive nikon 70-300 (the ~600 dollar one). http://www.photozone.de/nikon_ff/619-tamron70300f456fx
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# ¿ May 14, 2013 03:09 |
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DOUBLEPOSTING BECAUSE SPACE IS AWESOME. http://petapixel.com/2013/04/10/a-glimpse-at-where-camera-gear-is-kept-on-the-international-space-station/
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# ¿ May 14, 2013 08:40 |
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tropical posted:Awesome, thanks guys, I'll let her know! I would steer her to Micro 4/3 or Fuji-X but they're way out of her price range. Used Micro 4/3 is in the same price range as a J1 or V1 (if not cheaper), but you're going with the older sensors at that rate. You can find ep-1's and such on ebay for 100-200 all the time last I checked.
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# ¿ May 16, 2013 19:52 |
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PFlats posted:The OP kinda confused me on this issue, so: It should mount fine, unless he has a few rare lenses (like the 6mm fisheye). The issue is that you probably won't have a working meter, so you'll have to guess on exposure. http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/compatibility-lens.htm is a useful site for checking compatibility, and I should hav eput it in the OP to begin with.
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# ¿ May 17, 2013 04:47 |
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Bubbacub posted:I have a friend with a D3000 and a kit lens. What would be a good next lens purchase for her? If she had a Canon, I'd tell her to get a nifty fifty and go to town, is there a Nikon equivalent to that? She has a tight budget, would any older manual focus lenses be good? Old manual lenses won't meter on her camera, she'll have to guess at the exposure/use trial and error. The nikon 35/1.8G costs a little bit more than the nifty 50, but it's arguably a better focal length for crop sensors, and better made to boot. That's what i'd look for.
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# ¿ Jun 1, 2013 21:42 |
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Dren posted:Flotzilla: You should get a rocket blower for 8 bucks too, either one on their own probably won't work perfectly, but blowing then swiping is normally a great one two punch. Also, gently caress how dusty the d7000's sensor gets, the built in sensor cleaner does jack poo poo My sensor has legit around 200 dust particles on it, which is loving awesome when you're using it to PHOTOGRAPH DUST PARTICLES UGH.
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# ¿ Jun 3, 2013 17:44 |
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Part of the issue is that shipping cameras tends to knock dust loose and onto the sensor really well. Most of the digital cameras i've bought arrive dustier than what the seller showed before hand.
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# ¿ Jun 3, 2013 17:48 |
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No, 400 iso is 400 iso no matter what sensor you use. Indoor lights are just not that bright compared to sunlight (even if your eyes are good at adjusting so that it looks the same).
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# ¿ Jun 11, 2013 22:55 |
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Platystemon posted:You only think it’s logarithmic because you think of it in terms of stops. Notice how on that chart 12800 is right below 25600, whereas numerically 12800 is halfway between 0 and 25600. Lol Musket posted:This would be a terrible camera. It'd be a Leica.
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# ¿ Jun 12, 2013 15:35 |
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Manufacturers normally report how good their system is by saying "x stops of compensation". Generally the rule is 1/focal length for handholding, although it depends on the user. It also depends on what you're shooting, I mean if you're shooting something that's moving all the VR in the world isn't going to make it look sharp. It's also not perfect, if I'm worried about getting a sharp shot I'll normally go into burst mode and take 3-5 shots, just to be safe. This was handheld with a Tamron 70-300mm VC lens (at 300mm) on a d5000, 1/20 of a second shutter speed. DSC_0513.jpg by MrDespair, on Flickr With wider lenses you can get away with even more.
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# ¿ Jun 16, 2013 20:31 |
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Musket posted:VR1 is 2-3 stops, but really its closer to 2. The 80-400 being the weakest VR. 200mm with Vr and 1/30th are not going to work. You wont stop any motion at all but hey, stationary objects wont be too blurry. Look at Mr. Shakeyhands here.
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# ¿ Jun 17, 2013 15:15 |
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nielsm posted:I spotted a used Nikon 24-50/3.5-4.5 AF in a store today. Is that worth anything? Keh.com is your friend for these sorts of questions. http://www.keh.com/camera/Nikon-Autofocus-Zoom-Lenses/1/sku-NA07999022192N?r=FE or (depending on which version you saw). http://www.keh.com/camera/Nikon-Autofocus-Zoom-Lenses/1/sku-NA070090313380?r=FE Look it up there for a good starting price.
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# ¿ Jun 17, 2013 21:00 |
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Die Zombie Die posted:Ok, I will take a look and see what I can find in those sizes. We don't have very many camera shops down here in coachella valley, so i will probably head up into san bernardino. My next immediate purchase will be a bag/backpack for the trip. The internet is full of camera shops that will ship to the coachella valley Places like BestBuy probably carry the 35 too.
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# ¿ Jun 20, 2013 18:21 |
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FISHMANPET posted:Waaaat, I thought D7000 was full frame. The AF-D 50mm is still made and sold new, for half the price of the G model. This is the one that won't AF on the 5x00 and 3x00 bodies: http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-50mm-Nikkor-Digital-Cameras/dp/B00005LEN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371750005&sr=8-1&keywords=nikon+50mm This one will AF on all the dslrs http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-50mm-NIKKOR-Digital-Cameras/dp/B004Y1AYAC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1371750208&sr=8-2&keywords=nikon+50mm The 35mm is more useful on crop bodies I'd say though. Dr. Despair fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Jun 20, 2013 |
# ¿ Jun 20, 2013 18:40 |
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FISHMANPET posted:Well poo poo, yeah, if you've got the D7000 than buy the AF-D. Or get a used 50/1.4 AF-D from keh for about the same price. Or a tamron 17-50 VC. Or a 70-300 of some kind. Or maybe just use the kit lens for a bit and figure out what you want to shoot before buying a bunch of lenses. :P
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# ¿ Jun 20, 2013 18:49 |
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Die Zombie Die posted:Oh drat, I knew it was too good to be true. I screwed it all up and bought the camera first instead of the lenses. I am just going to start ordering one of everything and hope that the camera succeeds where I fail. 200mm isn't nearly enough, 400mm is barely enough to snype most birds [ Mod edit: I hereby claim this snype for Spain ] Somebody fucked around with this message at 07:41 on Jun 25, 2013 |
# ¿ Jun 20, 2013 21:59 |
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Die Zombie Die posted:I will be picking up understanding exposure this weekend, but for the mean time I have been shooting in manual mode and practicing with f stops and shutter speeds. My question is this, how do tell what ISO I should be shooting at inside versus outside? Or should I just wait for the book and learn from it? The correct answer is whatever iso you need to get the shutter speed and aperture you want (without having more sensor noise than you're ok with).
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# ¿ Jun 24, 2013 18:36 |
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Die Zombie Die posted:Alright so ISO affects speed at which the exposure is written on the card/film. So lower ISO will give crisper shots, but is best for stationary objects where it becomes more about detail. Any movement will create blur. Higher ISO will be best for subjects in motion where you want to capture the action without blur. Generally. Or am I just way off the mark. ISO is the sensitivity to light of the sensor. Don't think about ISO in terms of blur or detail, just think about your shutter speed and aperture for that, and adjust the ISO to make everything else work. Also, this is why chapter 1 of understanding exposure is all about explaining the relationship between shutter speed, aperture, and iso.
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# ¿ Jun 24, 2013 19:01 |
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I feel like confusing experience with the actual physics, which doesn't necessarily work the same way.
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# ¿ Jun 26, 2013 20:43 |
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SoundMonkey posted:No, get that lens, it owns hard and that's a great price. That's the normal price, the AF-S model is the one that costs around $200.
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# ¿ Jun 28, 2013 07:11 |
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He probably just got a 50/1.4 anyways when he upgraded. Duh.
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# ¿ Jun 30, 2013 06:31 |
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Musket posted:Love that .096345% more photons. Can you quantify the bokeh, bro???
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# ¿ Jun 30, 2013 06:43 |
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You can get a used d7000 for under 600 at KEH http://www.keh.com/camera/Nikon-Digital-Camera-Bodies/1/sku-DN029991196280?r=FE
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# ¿ Jul 4, 2013 03:24 |
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VarrosAnon posted:I've had my D3200 for about 2 months, and after browsing this thread through I saw a couple great shout-outs for the Tamron AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6. I have the 18-35mm kit now and it's perfect for family/general shots and the other purposes I initially bought the camera for, but I really am looking for a good complement to it when I'm out and want to zoom in effectively. (read: at all) Unless you're willing to spend about a grand it's the best lens in that category. I loved my 70-300 VC.
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# ¿ Jul 7, 2013 17:16 |
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McCoy Pauley posted:Quick question. I have a D5100 that I've only had a few weeks, so I'm just starting to get the hang of basic stuff. My dad is visiting and brought some old Nikon stuff he had from his 35mm Nikon, including a Nikkor-P 105mm f2.5. From some googling, my understanding is that I CAN use this lens on my D5100 without any modification, right? I'm getting that in part from this chart: Yup, you shouldn't have any issues at all.
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# ¿ Jul 21, 2013 01:38 |
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McCoy Pauley posted:Thanks, I tried it and it works fine. It seems like it will be fun to play around with. The glass is really nice, and the whole thing just feels so solid. You could, but it's probalby not worth it. Those adapters feature corrective optics to give you infinity focus, and it normally turns good glass into lovely glass.
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# ¿ Jul 21, 2013 02:53 |
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McCoy Pauley posted:Thanks. I guess I should have figured that, with it being a pretty cheap piece of equipment and having something optical in there. I suppose I had at first thought it would just be some mechanical ring. Oh well. It all depends on what you want to do for macro. Bellows are great for precision, studio, tripod sort of stuff. If you want to be walking around shooting bugs then you're better off with a macro lens, or extension tubes/reverse mounting.
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# ¿ Jul 22, 2013 03:15 |
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Wait, like, the bottom of the camera came off?
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# ¿ Jul 30, 2013 19:28 |
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I may have been trying to copy all the cat pictures into a post for a different thread, and I MAY have accidentally hit "save changes" instead of preview to make sure I had everything, and I just MIGHT have deleted all the text in the OP last night. This wouldn't have happened if I was drinking instead If anyone has archives and can go find the old OP and throw it in pastebin or something so I can fix it that'd be grand Still better than the canon thread though e. ok pretty much fixed, thanks RangerScum for the help! Dr. Despair fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Aug 25, 2013 |
# ¿ Aug 25, 2013 17:08 |
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It was for a while! Sorry you missed it while it was good.
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# ¿ Aug 28, 2013 05:39 |
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4/20 NEVER FORGET posted:I bought a 17-55mm f/2.8 DX AF-S on craigslist for $650 and I couldn't be happier. They seem to sell cheap on the used market as people move up to full-frame. Just something to think about. You can find a used Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 for $250 shipped on amazon now too, if you're on a real tight budget.
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2013 18:07 |
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VelociBacon posted:It does. Tamron 70-300 VC USD is the one. This is by far the best lens to get unless you're willing to get a $1500 lens.
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# ¿ Oct 17, 2013 13:07 |
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Hell, this was handheld at 300mm, 1/20 of a second shutter. DSC_0513.jpg by MrDespair, on Flickr The VC on the tamron is quite good.
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# ¿ Oct 17, 2013 19:50 |
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Dread Head posted:My understanding it is just the D4 sensor, I saw that it was going to only be 5.5fps I hope it's going to be built by cosina like the FM10. Might actually be worth getting then!
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# ¿ Oct 21, 2013 00:59 |
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Good cameras don't have shutter speed dials. e. bad cameras sometimes don't have shutter speed dials either.
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# ¿ Oct 24, 2013 00:19 |
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# ¿ May 8, 2024 21:09 |
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Paul MaudDib posted:I have no idea what you're talking about, tactile controls own, touch screens and tons of fiddly joysticks and electronic poo poo suck. The me super has a pair of buttons for shutter speed
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# ¿ Oct 24, 2013 01:29 |