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Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Protons posted:

Then I don't know what to do at all :(

Upload some of the "blurry" pictures, preferably with exif data intact or at least telling us what settings used. It'd also be nice to know what lenses you already have. Understanding exposure owns too, everyone should read it once.

Finally, if you want a long lens consider saving up a bit more and finding a used tamron 70-300 VC, it'll be nicer than the really cheap nikon zooms and it's only around 300 or 350 used if you look around last I checked.

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Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

You don't even have to dig, there's several for 320 or so on amazon used right now.

e. Also tamron's rebates are processed quickly and easily from what I remember, if you decide to buy new. When I did it last year they were handling the rebates in house, and it was a 2 or 3 week turnaround from when I mailed in the stuff.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Protons posted:

Lets say I bumped the budget up to $400. Would that open more options?

The tamron 70-300 VC is the king in the under 400 range. King. (Musket's lens for sale is nice too but it won't autofocus on a d3000, pretty sure it's screw drive).

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Krock is a Pentax ME fan, so he's cool in my book.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

I've used the Tamron 70-300VC, it's a very good lens for the price. Better than the cheap nikons, comparable to the more expensive nikon 70-300 (the ~600 dollar one).

http://www.photozone.de/nikon_ff/619-tamron70300f456fx

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

DOUBLEPOSTING BECAUSE SPACE IS AWESOME.

http://petapixel.com/2013/04/10/a-glimpse-at-where-camera-gear-is-kept-on-the-international-space-station/

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

tropical posted:

Awesome, thanks guys, I'll let her know! I would steer her to Micro 4/3 or Fuji-X but they're way out of her price range.

Used Micro 4/3 is in the same price range as a J1 or V1 (if not cheaper), but you're going with the older sensors at that rate. You can find ep-1's and such on ebay for 100-200 all the time last I checked.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

PFlats posted:

The OP kinda confused me on this issue, so:

My family has a bunch of old F mount Nikon glass. Nikkormat old.

From what http://www.bythom.com/lensacronyms.htm says, worst case scenario, it'll mount just fine in a D5100 body?

Is that page accurate and trustworthy? I'd rather my father not ruin his first DSLR.

It should mount fine, unless he has a few rare lenses (like the 6mm fisheye). The issue is that you probably won't have a working meter, so you'll have to guess on exposure.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/compatibility-lens.htm is a useful site for checking compatibility, and I should hav eput it in the OP to begin with.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Bubbacub posted:

I have a friend with a D3000 and a kit lens. What would be a good next lens purchase for her? If she had a Canon, I'd tell her to get a nifty fifty and go to town, is there a Nikon equivalent to that? She has a tight budget, would any older manual focus lenses be good?

Old manual lenses won't meter on her camera, she'll have to guess at the exposure/use trial and error.

The nikon 35/1.8G costs a little bit more than the nifty 50, but it's arguably a better focal length for crop sensors, and better made to boot. That's what i'd look for.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Dren posted:

Flotzilla:

Buy these: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=orderHistory&A=details&Q=&sku=435207&is=REG
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=orderHistory&A=details&Q=&sku=242758&is=REG

Put camera in mirror lock up mode. Take off lens. Pull out a swab and put a bit of the cleaner fluid on it. Swab all the way across the sensor with one side of the swab, then back with the other. Put the lens back on. Take a picture of something bright, like the sky, at ƒ/16 and check for dust spots. If there are still dust spots, repeat with a new swab. It might be a good idea to try and swab out the body itself if you notice a lot of dust in there that's just gonna fall on the sensor in a couple of days.

This is how I clean my D40 and D7000. It works well. Dry swabs + solution is cheaper than pre-moistened swabs.

VelociBacon:

I agree with Musket that the most important place to spend photobux is glass. The D7k has some nice to haves over the D200. Bigger LCD, full viewfinder coverage, sensor with really nice iso 1600, and better AF system are the ones that come to mind. Still, glass really is the most important thing. If you really wants all those focal lengths then that's where you should spend your money. You should definitely consider the 35mm ƒ/1.8 so you can get a taste of the wonderful IQ that primes have. The tamron is not for me. There are so many good (and not absurdly expensive) primes available in that range and I'd rather have those. If you're going to shoot at night you'll really want a tripod. The best thing to do is buy as much of this stuff used as you can (or rent it) so that you can get a feel for what you really want.

You should get a rocket blower for 8 bucks too, either one on their own probably won't work perfectly, but blowing then swiping is normally a great one two punch.

Also, gently caress how dusty the d7000's sensor gets, the built in sensor cleaner does jack poo poo :argh: My sensor has legit around 200 dust particles on it, which is loving awesome when you're using it to PHOTOGRAPH DUST PARTICLES UGH.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Part of the issue is that shipping cameras tends to knock dust loose and onto the sensor really well. Most of the digital cameras i've bought arrive dustier than what the seller showed before hand.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

No, 400 iso is 400 iso no matter what sensor you use. Indoor lights are just not that bright compared to sunlight (even if your eyes are good at adjusting so that it looks the same).

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Platystemon posted:

You only think it’s logarithmic because you think of it in terms of stops. Notice how on that chart 12800 is right below 25600, whereas numerically 12800 is halfway between 0 and 25600.

ISO actually defines two scales for film speed, but no one uses the logarithmic scale. ISO 100 on the linear scale corresponds to ISO 21° on the logarithmic scale, with every third of a stop being one degree. ISO 200 = ISO 24°, ISO 400 = ISO 27°, and so on.

In the age of digital cameras, the linear scale gets kind of ridiculous. The D4 has ISO 204800. Wouldn’t “ISO 54°” be simpler? I think so.

Lol


Musket posted:

This would be a terrible camera.

It'd be a Leica.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Manufacturers normally report how good their system is by saying "x stops of compensation".

Generally the rule is 1/focal length for handholding, although it depends on the user.

It also depends on what you're shooting, I mean if you're shooting something that's moving all the VR in the world isn't going to make it look sharp.

It's also not perfect, if I'm worried about getting a sharp shot I'll normally go into burst mode and take 3-5 shots, just to be safe.

This was handheld with a Tamron 70-300mm VC lens (at 300mm) on a d5000, 1/20 of a second shutter speed.


DSC_0513.jpg by MrDespair, on Flickr

With wider lenses you can get away with even more.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Musket posted:

VR1 is 2-3 stops, but really its closer to 2. The 80-400 being the weakest VR. 200mm with Vr and 1/30th are not going to work. You wont stop any motion at all but hey, stationary objects wont be too blurry.

VRII is accepted as roughly 4 stops. The only lens I owned with VR2 was the 70-200. Its good, but nothing with VR in it will stop motion or violate the 1/focal length rule. All you are obtaining is the ability to handhold against stationary objects a few extra stops.

I notice VR when im shooting between 18mm and 55mm. Wider angles will benefit from VR more than narrow ones. I can handhold down to 1/4th at 18mm with 4stops of VR (i also have no mirror so that helps too). I cant do that at the 200mm end.

Look at Mr. Shakeyhands here.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

nielsm posted:

I spotted a used Nikon 24-50/3.5-4.5 AF in a store today. Is that worth anything?

Keh.com is your friend for these sorts of questions.

http://www.keh.com/camera/Nikon-Autofocus-Zoom-Lenses/1/sku-NA07999022192N?r=FE
or (depending on which version you saw).
http://www.keh.com/camera/Nikon-Autofocus-Zoom-Lenses/1/sku-NA070090313380?r=FE

Look it up there for a good starting price.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Die Zombie Die posted:

Ok, I will take a look and see what I can find in those sizes. We don't have very many camera shops down here in coachella valley, so i will probably head up into san bernardino. My next immediate purchase will be a bag/backpack for the trip.

The internet is full of camera shops that will ship to the coachella valley :ssh:

Places like BestBuy probably carry the 35 too.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

FISHMANPET posted:

Waaaat, I thought D7000 was full frame.

And AF doesn't matter, the 50/1.8 and the 35/1.8 both autofocus on any body, unless you get an older model.

The AF-D 50mm is still made and sold new, for half the price of the G model.

This is the one that won't AF on the 5x00 and 3x00 bodies: http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-50mm-Nikkor-Digital-Cameras/dp/B00005LEN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371750005&sr=8-1&keywords=nikon+50mm

This one will AF on all the dslrs http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-50mm-NIKKOR-Digital-Cameras/dp/B004Y1AYAC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1371750208&sr=8-2&keywords=nikon+50mm

The 35mm is more useful on crop bodies I'd say though.

Dr. Despair fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Jun 20, 2013

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

FISHMANPET posted:

Well poo poo, yeah, if you've got the D7000 than buy the AF-D.

Or get a used 50/1.4 AF-D from keh for about the same price. Or a tamron 17-50 VC. Or a 70-300 of some kind. Or maybe just use the kit lens for a bit and figure out what you want to shoot before buying a bunch of lenses. :P

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Die Zombie Die posted:

Oh drat, I knew it was too good to be true. I screwed it all up and bought the camera first instead of the lenses. I am just going to start ordering one of everything and hope that the camera succeeds where I fail.

Thanks for all the tips though. There are some good lenses on Craigslist right now that i may go take a look at. I would like to pick up at least one lens before I leave. I was leaning towards a 200mm so i don't have to get too close to things in the jungle that would go 1,2,3,death.

200mm isn't nearly enough, 400mm is barely enough to snype most birds :colbert:

[ Mod edit: I hereby claim this snype for Spain ]

Somebody fucked around with this message at 07:41 on Jun 25, 2013

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Die Zombie Die posted:

I will be picking up understanding exposure this weekend, but for the mean time I have been shooting in manual mode and practicing with f stops and shutter speeds. My question is this, how do tell what ISO I should be shooting at inside versus outside? Or should I just wait for the book and learn from it?

The correct answer is whatever iso you need to get the shutter speed and aperture you want (without having more sensor noise than you're ok with).

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Die Zombie Die posted:

Alright so ISO affects speed at which the exposure is written on the card/film. So lower ISO will give crisper shots, but is best for stationary objects where it becomes more about detail. Any movement will create blur. Higher ISO will be best for subjects in motion where you want to capture the action without blur. Generally. Or am I just way off the mark.

Regarding your post above. It would wash the subject out then.

ISO is the sensitivity to light of the sensor. Don't think about ISO in terms of blur or detail, just think about your shutter speed and aperture for that, and adjust the ISO to make everything else work.

Also, this is why chapter 1 of understanding exposure is all about explaining the relationship between shutter speed, aperture, and iso.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

I feel like confusing experience with the actual physics, which doesn't necessarily work the same way.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

SoundMonkey posted:

No, get that lens, it owns hard and that's a great price.

In fact that's a weirdly good price. But whatever.

Or someone tells me that's actually a normal price now? I dunno gently caress just buy it.

That's the normal price, the AF-S model is the one that costs around $200.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

He probably just got a 50/1.4 anyways when he upgraded. Duh.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Musket posted:

Love that .096345% more photons.

not real science

Can you quantify the bokeh, bro???

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

You can get a used d7000 for under 600 at KEH http://www.keh.com/camera/Nikon-Digital-Camera-Bodies/1/sku-DN029991196280?r=FE

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

VarrosAnon posted:

I've had my D3200 for about 2 months, and after browsing this thread through I saw a couple great shout-outs for the Tamron AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6. I have the 18-35mm kit now and it's perfect for family/general shots and the other purposes I initially bought the camera for, but I really am looking for a good complement to it when I'm out and want to zoom in effectively. (read: at all)

Does anyone have a trip report? It's perfectly priced, I just want to know if it's worth it.

Unless you're willing to spend about a grand it's the best lens in that category. I loved my 70-300 VC.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

McCoy Pauley posted:

Quick question. I have a D5100 that I've only had a few weeks, so I'm just starting to get the hang of basic stuff. My dad is visiting and brought some old Nikon stuff he had from his 35mm Nikon, including a Nikkor-P 105mm f2.5. From some googling, my understanding is that I CAN use this lens on my D5100 without any modification, right? I'm getting that in part from this chart:

http://www.aiconversions.com/compatibilitytable.htm

From somebody who does AI conversions. That is, the D5100 doesn't have anything that would be damaged if I just put this Nikkor lens on. It's just that it will all be totally manual, right? But no chance I damage my D5100 putting it on?

Yup, you shouldn't have any issues at all.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

McCoy Pauley posted:

Thanks, I tried it and it works fine. It seems like it will be fun to play around with. The glass is really nice, and the whole thing just feels so solid.

He also has an older Canon zoom lens, and my understanding is that I can pick up an adapter to fit Canon lenses on the Nikon body (something like this, maybe?). I can use that without any risk of having the Canon lens damage the D5100 body, right?

You could, but it's probalby not worth it. Those adapters feature corrective optics to give you infinity focus, and it normally turns good glass into lovely glass.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

McCoy Pauley posted:

Thanks. I guess I should have figured that, with it being a pretty cheap piece of equipment and having something optical in there. I suppose I had at first thought it would just be some mechanical ring. Oh well.

Among other older photography stuff, my dad brought some macro lenses to play around with, and was also suggesting I try out a macro bellows with my D5100. I never looked into this before, and from some quick looking around on Amazon (which is probably not enough research on this kind of thing), it seemed like there was only one bellows for use with a Nikon that had anything close to decent reviews. Anyone have any experience with these, and any particular recommendation for a model?

It all depends on what you want to do for macro. Bellows are great for precision, studio, tripod sort of stuff. If you want to be walking around shooting bugs then you're better off with a macro lens, or extension tubes/reverse mounting.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Wait, like, the bottom of the camera came off? :psyduck:

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

I may have been trying to copy all the cat pictures into a post for a different thread, and I MAY have accidentally hit "save changes" instead of preview to make sure I had everything, and I just MIGHT have deleted all the text in the OP last night.

This wouldn't have happened if I was drinking instead :smith:


If anyone has archives and can go find the old OP and throw it in pastebin or something so I can fix it that'd be grand :buddy:

Still better than the canon thread though :colbert:

e. ok pretty much fixed, thanks RangerScum for the help!

Dr. Despair fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Aug 25, 2013

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

It was for a while! Sorry you missed it while it was good.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

4/20 NEVER FORGET posted:

I bought a 17-55mm f/2.8 DX AF-S on craigslist for $650 and I couldn't be happier. They seem to sell cheap on the used market as people move up to full-frame. Just something to think about.

You can find a used Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 for $250 shipped on amazon now too, if you're on a real tight budget.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

VelociBacon posted:

It does. Tamron 70-300 VC USD is the one.

This is by far the best lens to get unless you're willing to get a $1500 lens.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Hell, this was handheld at 300mm, 1/20 of a second shutter.


DSC_0513.jpg by MrDespair, on Flickr

The VC on the tamron is quite good.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Dread Head posted:

My understanding it is just the D4 sensor, I saw that it was going to only be 5.5fps

I hope it's going to be built by cosina like the FM10.

Might actually be worth getting then!

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Good cameras don't have shutter speed dials.

e. bad cameras sometimes don't have shutter speed dials either.

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Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Paul MaudDib posted:

I have no idea what you're talking about, tactile controls own, touch screens and tons of fiddly joysticks and electronic poo poo suck.

Y'all are taking the "retro styling" a bit too seriously. I can't imagine the internals will actually be mechanically timed, at the absolute most it will be an electronically controlled mechanical shutter (like the EM/FA or Pentax ME), meaning if Nikon has a lick of sense they will let you have aperture-priority mode (plus probably P and A modes too I guess).

It's almost certainly just a compact form factor DSLR.

The me super has a pair of buttons for shutter speed :ssh:

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