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I have a 93 Ford Explorer and the audio is crap. Both right side speakers are blown and sound like eggs being fried at anything over half volume; the header is 90's Ford stock. I don't have a ton of money but I'm looking to swap out the speakers first, then the header. Are there decent pairs of $50 6x8's or am I looking to have to spend more money? I'm not trying to bring the club in but I do listen to enough rock to need a little more oomph than stock. Additionally, are there any headers that offer bluetooth that won't look out of place in the beigest of 90's truck interiors? The only thing that isn't completely repulsive is Blaupunkt, but even that is too glossy for me.
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# ¿ Dec 18, 2013 22:42 |
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# ¿ May 11, 2024 22:19 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:I've got four of these in my Ranger. I think they have a newer version than those that can be had for about the same money. I'm drat happy with them for the money I paid not-quite-three years ago. Very nice, I was looking at those at Best Buy, but they didn't have a demo unit of them, and they only had one pair left. Is Rockford Fosgate good or no? Is there a real noticeable difference in the lineups? I found a set that are well-reviewed, but I'm not sure. There are so many choices out there, I'm trying to avoid no namers but stay under budget so I can get a decent header.
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# ¿ Dec 19, 2013 00:29 |
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some texas redneck posted:I haven't personally heard their Prime line before - in the past I've been pleased with the Punch series though. Fosgate's own website claims the Prime lineup is intended to be a stock replacement instead of a meaningful upgrade, and several of the reviews seem to agree that they're not much better than stock. And the Prime speakers you linked have shipping. Cool. Thanks for all the help guys. Any ideas for old stock looking headers?
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# ¿ Dec 19, 2013 04:55 |
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some texas redneck posted:FWIW, the lower end Pioneer stereos don't dim automatically with the head lights, which I found to be really annoying. I don't know what automatic lights are anymore. Is that when it gets dark and I pull the switch so I can see more ? I just love the bone-stock look too much to really want to change it, but the tape deck sounds so bad to me. I kinda like this.
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# ¿ Dec 20, 2013 10:35 |
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West SAAB Story posted:Jensen. Or Sony Xplod. Its always a You spelled Pyle weird.
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# ¿ Dec 23, 2013 07:48 |
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Costello Jello posted:My fiancee has a 2002 Honda CRV with a sound system that sounds like trash. I'm not looking for miracles, my 2000 Ford Focus sounds great to me with its stock sound system. I'm not looking at some fancy system with amps and subwoofers or anything. Right now, the Honda CRV has about a $100 Sony head unit. I don't think it's the main problem as the system sounded just as bad with the old stock headunit that died. So can I get away with just replacing the speakers? And if crutchfield says all 5.25" and 6.5" speakers fit, should I automatically go for a larger size? Larger size generally gets a better sound when all other factors are equal; so if you're looking at two well-reviewed speakers from the same product line, you're gonna want to go for the larger ones.
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# ¿ Apr 8, 2014 01:06 |
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Jerome Louis posted:I have a 2005 Buick Lesabre, I've just been using a tape adapter hooked up to my phone but now I get "Tight Tape" warnings and it spits out the adapter, can't seem to get it fixed. What are my options to cheaply get an aux-in hookup? Getting a new head unit looks like a pain in the rear end because I need to get an expensive factory integration adapter. Is there a cheap/easy way to install an aux-in to the factory headunit? This is not intended to insult your intelligence, but have you considered greasing the tape adapter?
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2014 02:52 |
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Twinkie Fat Sac posted:If you have the Bose system do some research and find out what ohm the factory speakers are. If you want to put in an aftermarket head unit you'll need an interface module; which one you get depends on whether you have a Bose system or not and if you want to keep it if you do. But they are overpriced. My experience with Bose is that they do one thing better than anyone, and that's noise cancellation; if that's what you're after, they cannot be beat. For everything else, they sound boxy, as if they are small speakers in a giant plastic tub; or WAY over processed, making all the music sound unrealistically high treble in parts where there is nothing else, but when something in the mids come back, the highs and lows get muted. I only got to experience with Bose car audio once, in a Chevy Tahoe, driving from LV to Ashland. The sound experience felt no better than stock GM sound, in my experience.
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# ¿ May 14, 2014 00:35 |
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blk posted:This thread should be renamed Acoustical Insanity.
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# ¿ Jul 18, 2014 12:06 |
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Trip report: Blaupunkt Hellsinki 220 BT works well in my '93 Explorer XLT; I feel like a caveman discovering fire every time my truck plays music from my pocket when I get in. Super easy to install, though I did need a set of RCA splitters that Crutchfield didn't warn me about.
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# ¿ Jul 24, 2014 08:28 |
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IuniusBrutus posted:I want a head unit to replace the tape deck on my 1995 BMW 318i. I'll be using it exclusively with my phone - so I want it to be Bluetooth, and ideally have a mic and support making and receiving calls through it as well. Some sort of remote that I can jury rig onto the steering wheel would be cool too, but not as needed. Sound quality isn't a huge priority, as I don't plan on replacing any speakers anyways. Is it a double or single din unit? I'm super happy with my Blaupunkt unit's call quality so far. It also doesn't look
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# ¿ Jul 26, 2014 18:18 |
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IuniusBrutus posted:Single din. I forgot to mention - that also would be an awesome plus. Less bullshit knobs and LEDs, the better. Then I definitely suggest the Blaupunkt Helsinki or Toronto, as they have Bluetooth, and don't look insane. The knob glows blue (don't like it too much, but it's not terribly bright) and the buttons are a dim red. It auto syncs with my phone when I get in, I just have to hit the input button and it starts streaming, with back-forward working through the header just fine on Google Music (which is my primary music app). Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 11:08 on Jul 28, 2014 |
# ¿ Jul 28, 2014 11:06 |
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What model/year/trim Subaru?
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# ¿ Aug 28, 2014 12:23 |
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ReelBigLizard posted:1996 Legacy 4WD You won't have a lack of choices in that size. I would say Infinity, Kenwood, or Rockford-Fosgate, but that's just from my own experiences. Currently I have Kenwoods that I'm happy with for stock replacements (the diaphragms were completely rotted away in my 93 Explorer). I don't know anything about UK pricing, though, so I will back off from my recommendations after this point, because I have no idea what your budget or prices look like out there.
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# ¿ Aug 28, 2014 14:01 |
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ReelBigLizard posted:Is this from your Megalodonic intellect or is there a reliable speaker size reference site? The car is parked up at my grandparents place 'cause I commute by bike so I can't actually pop the door cards and measure. Crutchfield.com
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# ¿ Aug 28, 2014 14:59 |
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ReelBigLizard posted:Sweet, thanks, so 6.5s all round then. I looked up Rockford Fosgate and here in the UK they are pretty pricey. Infinity doesn't seem to really be a thing here. Am I going to go far wrong with whatever basic Kenwood/Alpine/Blaupunkt is on offer? Really, you can't go wrong with any of those names, as far as I'm aware. If you're going lowest price, it'll just be a stock replacement, with the improvements being that music doesn't sound like robot farts anymore because you replaced the blown out speakers.
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# ¿ Aug 29, 2014 10:15 |
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Pham Nuwen posted:Pyle looks maybe a bit shittier than I'd like to go. Have it in a 93 Exp XLT. Looks good.
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# ¿ Sep 4, 2014 11:07 |
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ReelBigLizard posted:No pics but I got my Blaupunkt Syndey 220 BT plugged in a couple of nights ago. I'm really pleased with it. The bluetooth works well; It will pick up a device in the back of the car no problem, when you get back in it will pick up the device again and carry on playing where it left off. I haven't tried the phone yet. Yeah, the phone works ok, but that's about a thousand times better than the ones where you have to mic it yourself (the mic is in the headunit). I wouldn't neglect going into the settings and messing with stuff in there; you can do all sorts of stuff like de-activate tuner bands you don't use.
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# ¿ Sep 11, 2014 10:04 |
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Killstick posted:I noticed my left front door speaker is not working. How hard would it be to replace / repair that? I'm thinking especially about diagnosing it. If it's the speaker itself that's not working, can i just replace it with some off the shelf thing or do i need to get a replacement from BMW (i'd rather kill myself). Any tips on how to diagnose something like that? Fairly easy to replace if it's just the speaker. You should really find out if it's the speaker though, and not a loose connection; it's not common that a speaker just stops working, without sounding like dog poo poo for a while before. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JO4UnUv_ZR8
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2014 09:21 |
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Samsquamsch posted:I'm attempting to install subwoofers in my 2006 Mercedes E350. I aim to do this with a line out converter using the signal from the stock sub. I spent 3 hours taking apart the back seat and incredibly confusing headrests to get at the rear deck and the sub, and found that there are four wires going into it: It is indeed a dual voice sub. This is how Crutchfield says you can do it: Maybe this could help (open in new tab for huge). I would honestly think about paying someone if you're not replacing the whole system, at this point, as they haven't made it very easy to do. This thread on E90 is one of many that discuss the "easiest" way to upgrade the stock sub.
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# ¿ Oct 22, 2014 10:19 |
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In my defense, that was where most of the research material was coming up when looking for the Logic7 system, which is what comes up when you reference the manufacturer numbers on his sub. Both maunfacturers use it.
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# ¿ Oct 22, 2014 14:27 |
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Glad my fumbling Google could help! I'm in a different kind of bind; I don't know anything about building cabinets. I have a 1993 Explorer XLT with a Blaupunkt Helsinki 220 driving four Kenwood KFC-C6895PS from the head unit directly. No provisions for deadening or dampening have been made. The storage area has a little storage cubby that isn't much use. I was thinking of getting something like this and stuffing a 10" sub (?) with a dedicated amp (???) to fill in the low end. I'm not trying to rattle out windows, or even make the bass hit hard, I just want to add some impact to my Kenwood speakers. Basically, I want to end up with this: I know there is some room behind the panel for "stuff" (Ford even has a factory sub box and amp mount for the space, seen below) and it's mostly empty, but it's not rectangular, and I don't know the first thing about making a sub cabinet. Would this be something worth taking the time to do? I don't have a jigsaw, so the cost of tools/materials would be something that I would need to consider. I do NOT want a standalone box sub, as I actually use the cargo area and fold-down seats often. TLDR version: - What are recommended budget sub/amp combos for a mono sub system in a tight space like this? - Would building a cabinet in a hidden area be worth the effort? - What would the cost comparison be vs. buying a premade cabinet (linked above)?
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# ¿ Oct 27, 2014 14:18 |
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Ah, I didn't know that I was diving into the realm of fiberglass; I was thinking a backboard to mount the amp/crossovers, plus a sealed box built onto it would be feasible, but I see how that would be ... difficult now. Would I use the batting around the inside or outside of the box? How would I isolate it from the bodywork? Should I get some sorbothane sheets to make gaskets for it? Additionally, what are some sub+amp combos that the thread recommends? I'm trying to stay on as low of a budget as possible.
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# ¿ Oct 28, 2014 07:07 |
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What impact (if any) would the different ohmage of sub coils have on this setup?
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# ¿ Oct 29, 2014 07:45 |
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In my experience, Google Music responds to standard media controls over Bluetooth, regardless of the controller. My experience is based off my Note 3 and the girlfriend's Galaxy S4 on several Bluetooth speakers and my Helsinki receiver in my Explorer.
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2014 16:22 |
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Oh yeah I forgot that's the best part about blueteeth, having your phone tell you when you gotta make a turn when you're too focused on jamming out. But it can get kinda annoying when your phone beeps and boops all the time for dumb poo poo, dimming your music each time. I use Sony Smart Actions (I don't even have a Sony device ) to automatically detect when my phone is connected to "Blaupunkt", to turn off WiFi, and turn the phone on vibrate; and have it all undone when "Blaupunkt" disconnects.
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2014 18:26 |
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MikeyTsi posted:This isn't surprising, Blaupunkt has been known to use Sony technology. I have changed Android apps, from Sony Smart Actions to Trigger. Works way better for my needs.
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# ¿ Nov 24, 2014 17:49 |
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Tamir Lenk posted:I am trying to sketch out an audio system for an old car with tight space. Namely - the 1975 Alfa on the left in this pic: What is the model? vv Just looking up pics of the interior to get some ideas for mounting stuff; holy poo poo, you're not lying about tight. Wonder if you could do something weird like defroster vent delete with some small drivers. vv Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Feb 27, 2015 |
# ¿ Feb 27, 2015 19:52 |
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This one was also cool for the wireless option.
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2015 16:18 |
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I need help trying to figure out which is the best option for a 2010 Outback 3.6R Limited remote starter kit is; would this be the most appropriate thread on this forum? It's friggin hot in Vegas, and it's got black leather interior, so I just need something that can turn on the A/C while I get ready to clock out at work.
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# ¿ Mar 1, 2017 01:13 |
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RIP Paul Walker posted:I would strongly suggest anything other than Kenwood, their interfaces have infuriated me since the beginning of time. Blaupunkt Uber Alles
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# ¿ Mar 13, 2017 18:58 |
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5 RING SHRIMP posted:my 2010 Subaru outback has an auxiliary port and a USB media player plugin. Sup 2010 Outback buddy! Bookmark this website! They nearly always have the instructions, too.' This is the official part if it's the USB/Aux combo that comes in my r Limited. This site is also good to have bookmarked. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 07:41 on May 24, 2017 |
# ¿ May 24, 2017 07:36 |
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Up until fairly recently, Blaupunkt made some fairly sedate looking head units. But looking at their website now, it looks like all of their single DINs now come with raves, and their double DINs are all touchscreen. Their New Jersey 220 BT can pass for a newer stock GM double din stereo from a glance, but it's discontinued. drat, I just looked at that site; Blaupunkt. These are niiiiiccceee.
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# ¿ May 31, 2017 01:01 |
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Hypnolobster posted:Has bluetooth reached a point where it doesn't significantly degrade audio quality? I was under the impression that the bitrate was way high, but I put a (cheap) Pioneer in my car and the bluetooth sounds like hammered rear end in a top hat compared to 3.5mm. It's a Pioneer MVH-290BT. It may be your phone; sometimes the audio process fucks up real bad, or your phone decides it should process sound through some intermediate thread. Check and see if your phone has lots of poo poo running, try a control test by using some other Bluetooth device on your head-unit. It is almost NEVER the embedded device loving up when audio is bad; it is, in my experience, the host device doing something to gently caress up the sound.
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# ¿ May 31, 2017 07:27 |
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MikeyTsi posted:Bluetooth doesn't "do" transform on audio, or really anything; it's basically just a really short-range WiFi that has dedicated communication for paired devices. That's what I'm saying. When it's hosed up, is usually something in your phone/tablet/computer loving up before making GBS threads it out, not the speaker or stereo or whatever misbehaving.
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# ¿ May 31, 2017 10:24 |
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If you're interested in Android Auto I'm really happy with the Sony XAV AX100. I can't give you any input on the Chinese Android tablet in a head unit options, although my research into the topic seems to indicate the sound quality on a lot of them suck, and many have a constant hiss. The XAV comes with the ability to read flash drives over USB and plays video files too.
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# ¿ Sep 2, 2017 21:14 |
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IME is about ten seconds from rear end in seat to playing music. I have to plug in and tap the play button though, and occasionally Android Auto will forget which app I was listening to and get it mixed up between my podcast app and Google Play Music. This is not common, but it happens. It takes about another five-teen seconds to fix. Most Android Auto head units still have BT and USB storage support, so you can keep using it the way you currently are, but having the in dash display and voice support is very nice on longer trips. Gripes I have about Android Auto: - Sometimes forgets which music app I'm listening to. - Cannot type into Google Play Music search even though I can type into Google Maps search. - Browsing through podcast lists can be kind of a chore. I love Android Auto, though and the conveniences outweigh the negatives. It's a 9/10 experience for me.
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# ¿ Nov 14, 2017 22:33 |
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.
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# ¿ Nov 14, 2017 22:35 |
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Nope. I've used both micro USB and USB C in my XAV-AX100. Also Android auto will keep playing the source you were listening to when you plug your phone in. For instance you can keep listening to the radio while Google maps is navigating, etc. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Nov 15, 2017 |
# ¿ Nov 15, 2017 00:44 |
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# ¿ May 11, 2024 22:19 |
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I would just do it yourself then, unless you have some painfully difficult trim removal. Crutchfield provided detailed instructions, free parts, and even resolved a stupid wiring problem over the phone in ten minutes.
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# ¿ Nov 17, 2017 17:27 |