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Yay, new thread!MonkeyNutZ posted:I was looking into going headunitless in about a decade when I finish my project car. I found a few threads about just using cheap class T amps but I'd love to hear what AI has to say. I want to go headunit-less in the Mini because there's no real "dash" and you can't put stereo components in this: And not have it look awful. Depends on your budget and needs really, for me I'm planning: -Redo the dash cards in speaker cloth, hide 6.5" components behind it -JVC head unit hidden away, USB and aux mounted in upper ashtray -Android phone as display for the JVC, also mounted on ashtray -OESWC steering wheel controls flush mounted somewhere -10" shallow sub mounted in boot -4 Ch amp to power front speakers and sub I like my CBC radio so I need a head unit but the basic setup is the same. blindjoe posted:Is the pioneer appradio2 any good? It will be used with an iphone 4, the complaints seem to be about android compatiblity. I am replacing a double din radio and it would be nice to get some nav, as well as radio. I am lazy most of the time, and just use the radio as noise. You get to use a lot more apps with iOS but even then the number of apps that are compatible is pretty small. Then again there could be hacks out there, I haven't played around with them that much. Kynetx posted:Any alarm experts here? I have a Smartstart setup with alarm and I would like to pair a new transmitter to it. The instructions mention a Program button on the alarm box, but all I have is a Valet button. Does this require wiring a switch into one of the connectors? Is it an alarm or an alarm/starter combo? Does it have Smartstart out of the box of did you buy the module seperately? A photo of the alarm would help if you can't get a model number. Also what kind of car is it? Are you saying the factory keyfob stops working when the car is remote started? I can help with DEI and Compustar product questions and access vehicle wiring info Oh god, so many remote starters
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# ¿ Dec 8, 2012 02:59 |
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# ¿ May 5, 2024 11:04 |
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Tacier posted:I don't want to change the stock look of my Mazda3 and I'm paranoid about theft. Is there a significant sound quality disadvantage to using a line-out converter to run an amp off the signal from my stock head unit? It looks like some amplifiers have speaker level inputs, which means they wouldn't even require a converter, right? No and yes, some amps will take high level signal inputs.
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# ¿ Dec 8, 2012 03:08 |
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Black88GTA posted:I got a Viper 5904 over the summer that I want to install in my car. I don't suppose you'd be able to get ahold of alarm related wiring diagrams for a 1994 BMW 840Ci? I've done shitloads of car stereo installs, but never an alarm / remote start. I was looking at getting one, we get a discount with Viper through my work. Let me know what you think, from what I read it looks like a 5901 with a rotary switch and OLED GRAPHICS. Oh boy...Directechs has almost nothing for wiring info. I'll look around at work tomorrow though.
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# ¿ Dec 8, 2012 04:06 |
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Black88GTA posted:If you do manage to find anything, I'd be grateful http://i.imgur.com/DJlBW.jpg Hope this helps, most of the time I can get photos and pin location for everything but not this time. Skreemer posted:Looks like my question got swallowed up. Anyone have suggestions? Budget? The factory deck puts out like 20W RMS so you're not going to make a lot of difference unless you start install an amp. Replace the factory speakers with a set of quality components and then reevaluate.
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# ¿ Dec 17, 2012 22:48 |
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Finished installing a Pioneer DA100 double din head unit it my Fit, played around with it until the HDMI cable took a poo poo. The Appradio 2 interfaces with the iPhone/Android but the apps you can use with it is limited. You can mirror your phones display but can't actually use the shiny 7" touch screen to do anything, that is unless you root your phone and buy a $25 app: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYFTjMkBCpY
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# ¿ Jan 30, 2013 06:32 |
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blk posted:So Pioneer's AppRadio 2 is $150 on Crutchfield now. I've heard great things and I've heard awful things. I have an iPhone4 and will be switching to Android later this year. Any thoughts on this headunit? Link? I posted about the DA100 I installed in my car not too long ago. The main issue is that there's a limited number of apps that will work with the touchscreen interface, everything else is locked out unless you root/jailbreak your phone and buy an app that will allow you to mirror your phone. It's also a little slim on features (no aux, cd, dvd, 2 pre outs) but it works for my needs. I have a back up camera installed, the BT mic is in the factory location, ipod and MHL cables have been run and the external gps antenna hidden. Sonys mirror link does everything that the AppRadio 2 should out of the box but it only works with the SGSIII.
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# ¿ Feb 6, 2013 19:20 |
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Chaostime posted:I bought a 2001 pre facelift Honda Civic Type-R about two years ago which is totally great and I'm very much in love. I don't know what the UK equivalent is but Crutchfield.com is a good place to do research. Anything that has Bluetooth will most likely do handsfree and A2DP as well. Video might push you past your budget though, JVC offerings for example: http://www.jvcmobile.co.uk/category.php?cat2=12 http://www.jvcmobile.co.uk/category.php?cat2=13 davertron posted:Ok, I know the advice so far is "buy a new HU", but what if I picked this thing up? http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1 http://jalopnik.com/5298493/confound-thieves-with-a-camouflaged-car-stereo-for-under-20 Real answer: They have a similar style amp for motorcycles that run on 12V. Hook up the speaker leads, power, ground, and accessory off the factory stereo harness. Connect your aux cable and you're done. Or just buy a head unit off craigslist.
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# ¿ Feb 10, 2013 17:53 |
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J-udy posted:I have a Ford Fiesta with Sync, and I'd rather not touch it. Am I going to have issues installing a subwoofer/amp on it? (Besides lack of space in the trunk.) Line out converter or an amp that will take high power speaker inputs.
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# ¿ Mar 18, 2013 04:28 |
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Kloaked00 posted:Any of you guys have an AppRadio? Are you happy with it? My current unit is a Pioneer Avic F700BT which seems to have possibly bricked itself yesterday. I'm trying some solutions I found on Avic411, but not much luck so far, so I might be looking for a new headunit. I installed a DA100 in my Fit. The features are light so it's pretty useless unless you have a smartphone. The display I huge, it looks OE, and if your phone is jailbroken you should be able to mirror everything a la ARliberator.
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# ¿ Apr 17, 2013 00:17 |
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Some OE stereos are connected through LIN/CAN bus and don't have a 12v ACC wire, don't know if that's the case here but I can confirm when I'm at work.
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2013 00:53 |
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Aflicted posted:So I just got done wiring my wrx with a 4 Channel alpine and a mono kicker amp. 8" ported sub and a set pc coaxial Focals up front. The weak link is now the HU. I hate to lose the steering wheel controls, but I have yet to see an adapter that saves the phone buttons. I also am lost in the gray area of phone control. I have an HTC One currently, but trade Android phones often. Mirrorlink seems great, but documented compatibility is lacking. How good is the appradio line from Pioneer? Other notable options out there that are double din? Which adapters have you looked at? Axxess, iDatalink and PAC all have steering wheel modules that should allow you to use or remap all OE controls. I can't download the Mirrorlink app but it could just be my phone/Canadia. Appradio is lacklustre unless you root your phone and use ARliberator but your phone has to be compatible with the headunit natively in order to work as far as I know. What are you looking to do with your phone? Freakboy2000 posted:I did a search for this that pointed to this thread but none of the posts it pointed me to were about this so here goes.. http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/electronics-audio-video-49/updated-general-stereo-faq-read-96094/ Accessory wire is accessible from the ignition harness or the fusebox. I've never done an installation without a module so I can't vouch for it personally. Steering wheel controls require it's own interface module. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Jul 17, 2013 |
# ¿ Jul 17, 2013 03:02 |
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Yeah, as long as the outlet is tied to accessory it'll work. Although honestly you could probably get the stereo out by pulling on the console trim panel and undoing four 7mm bolts (don't do this without confirming) but it miiiight turn on through GMLAN. I can look it up if you want. Played around with the new Sony head units and the remote app works nicely. Source selection, radio tuning, volume control, EQ control and you can add your own apps on the dashboard. Would work really nicely for a hidden installation; just mount the aux and usb ports, use a phone holder and just don't use the cd player. Will probably do that in the Miata and Mini. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Sep 15, 2013 |
# ¿ Sep 15, 2013 16:54 |
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Idatalink Maestro system is a data interface module for aftermarket head units, although right now only Kenwood supports it. It'll retain uconnect and possibly the steering wheel controls. You can also see all the OBDII data and have secondary gauges a la GTR. Aftermarket microphones can be put in the factory spot and the factory USB port turns into miniusb, at least it did for a JK Wrangler I worked on. Failing that the aftermarket port can be put in the factory spot. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Oct 2, 2013 |
# ¿ Oct 2, 2013 01:16 |
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Hmmm you're right about idatalink, I guess support isn't out yet.
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# ¿ Oct 2, 2013 18:13 |
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larchesdanrew posted:Maybe someone who knows more about this than me can help. I recently came to purchase a 2005 Honda Accord. The previous owner had what appears to be a 3.5mm audio hardwired into what I'm assuming is an FM transmitter. The cord has shorted out and no longer works and I'm looking to replace the whole unit. My research has turned up that no bluetooth units are compatible with the factory radio, so it looks like I'm in the market for an aftermarket unit with bluetooth audio streaming? Metra has a kit with new HVAC controls but it looks dumb and is expensive. I would look at products from iSimple or PAC audio, you can integrate bluetooth or aux in with the factory radio.
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# ¿ Oct 17, 2013 18:13 |
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DesperateDan posted:I am in the process of swapping out my Audi A4's stock "Concert" stereo for an Alpine unit I had in my last car. Today I got what I thought was the right harness but was not (I have a rear amplified Bose system, not a rear amplified standard system. apparently.), so I am returning it for a different one. What year and do you have a photo of the back of the stereo and adapter? It might have two antennas, I'd Google around first.
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# ¿ Oct 17, 2013 18:17 |
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larchesdanrew posted:The more I read into adding anything to a 2005 Accord, the more I realized that the process was going to involve a lot. How so? The companies I mentioned both have products that will work with any stereo as long as it has a radio antenna. Here are some videos that explain how it would work: http://enfigcarstereo.com/blog/2011/06/03/ipod-iphone-aux-usb-guide-honda-accord-2003-2004-2005-2006-2007-2/ Now if you're looking for something to play usb drives than an aftermarket head unit would be the only option. Bluetooth A2DP streaming, bluetooth handsfree calling, aux in, and apple product connection can all be done with a factory head unit. I'm a stickler for keeping everything OE looking though, if you don't mind the way it looks then go for it. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Oct 19, 2013 |
# ¿ Oct 19, 2013 05:09 |
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jhcain posted:I'm going to leave the factory AM radio in the dash, and again, I want the new gear to be essentially invisible, except when in use. What's your budget like and do you have a smartphone? Adding onto what LlyodDobler suggested this is what I'm planning for my Austin Mini: A Sony single din (bluetooth, USB, aux in) hidden somewhere with USB and aux extension cables run up front. My smartphone will run the Sony smart app and let me control the deck source/volume/eq remotely and add googlemaps to the app dashboard for navigation. I'll take the phone with me so nothing will be visible, I can listen to my public radio and not have to use the amp gain as volume control. I'm using speaker clothe to hide my speakers completely in new enclosures as well.
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# ¿ Nov 22, 2013 19:44 |
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jhcain posted:Smartphone is iPhone, so yes. Budget is probably not an issue on this part of the overall project. Yes, here's a handy video. I'd recommend playing around with a demo somewhere https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kaRtDMauLQM
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# ¿ Nov 24, 2013 23:04 |
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You can either: -Get an LOC that provides a remote lead -Get an amp that that turns on when it senses speaker signal -Wire the remote lead to an accessory circuit -Wire the remote lead to 12v and a toggle switch
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# ¿ Dec 21, 2013 20:10 |
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Appradio Unchained or Arliberator, I need to root my phone and switch my MHL to slim port. I have Appradio 2 and apparently the Nexus 5 should work as well with either app.
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# ¿ Jan 25, 2014 18:49 |
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Ugh Bose. Does the system come with a sub? Adding a sub and amp is fairly straightforward with a line out converter or an amp that that accept high level inputs. Speaker replacement depends on what ohm rating the OE speakers are, Bose systems are varying degrees of goofy. --- If the speakers ground themselves then it'll cause the issues you're seeing. 6 speakers?
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# ¿ Jan 25, 2014 23:53 |
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Friar Zucchini posted:edit: Oh who am I kidding, I don't even know if speakers grounding themselves is something they're supposed to do or a sign they're broken. Huh, 6 speakers is interesting. That error message means that one or more speaker circuit is shorting out; either the wires on the stereo harness, the speaker wires in the car or the speaker itself. Easiest way would be to disconnect each speaker circuit at the harness or unplug each speaker one by one until the stereo works again. If no speakers are connected and it still doesn't work then it's something with the head unit. KozmoNaut posted:Either live with it, or rip it all out and replace it with something decent. Also this, it's the loving worst. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Jan 26, 2014 |
# ¿ Jan 26, 2014 00:30 |
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lone77wulf posted:So, thanks to creative translation by Pioneer and me probably overthinking it, I'm confused on installing a backup camera. The manual says to connect the switching wire to the wire "in which the voltage changes". Does that mean that I connect the power for the camera to Positive and Negative on the reverse light and then the switching wire to positive as well, or is there another wire I should be looking for? I'm installing in a 2012 Nissan Sentra if anyone knows specifics on that. Head unit and camera model? Back up camera sensors will burn up if they're on all the time so connect positive to positive reverse light and ground to chassis. Pioneer usually gives you the option for positive or negative trigger, just hook it up to positive to make it easier. For your car 12V reverse can be found in the drivers kick harness going to the rear, white/black stripe.
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# ¿ Feb 14, 2014 17:13 |
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Fryhtaning posted:I saw that external mic on one of the Alpines, and on the Pioneer after you mentioned it, so that should be a good solution. http://www.metraonline.com/part/95-5026 I usually mount microphones above the rearview mirror.
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# ¿ Mar 3, 2014 18:38 |
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Uthor posted:That integration box is more than I expected it to be, but I guess that truck has a digital amp that the box integrates with. PAC Audio products might have a better solution, crutchfield is pretty expensive in general. What module you need depends on whether the truck has Onstar, Bose, etc. If he just wants to play music via bluetooth there are add on modules that will integrate with the factory head unit. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Mar 9, 2014 |
# ¿ Mar 9, 2014 00:44 |
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What about xmradio and steering wheel controls? I also edited my last post.
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# ¿ Mar 9, 2014 00:54 |
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jhcain posted:Ok, time to actually install some kind of stereo doodad in my jalopy. And it will be entirely hidden - either in/behind the glovebox, or under a seat. Sony BT3100P and BT4100P will do volume control. There's a promo video on YouTube that demonstrates their app remote, try to play with a demo model just in case. Wokrider posted:I'm thinking I'll attach it to my trunk cover, I drive a mazda3 hatchback. Like the cargo cover? Most amps don't like to be mounted upside down. Back of the rear seats is usually a good spot. Twinkie Fat Sac posted:So I just got a 07 Cadillac CTS and I am wanting to change out the speakers as they are starting to crackle and sound lovely. At least right now and probably at least for the summer, id rather not get a sub and amp ect. The stock sub on the car still bumps pretty good and doesnt sound like poo poo. What would be some good ~cheapish~ speakers. 2 front 2 rear and the 2 tweeters I think they are called that are long the frame. I would also like to get a new head unit cd player whatever they are called that has a plug for my ipod. I know some cars can use pandora, but im sure my vehicle isnt capable of doing it, what does it take to make it work? If you have the Bose system do some research and find out what ohm the factory speakers are. If you want to put in an aftermarket head unit you'll need an interface module; which one you get depends on whether you have a Bose system or not and if you want to keep it if you do.
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# ¿ May 12, 2014 14:39 |
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Tamir Lenk posted:Any recommendations for a good amp that can handle such a system? What else should I be exploring in this plan? What model speakers? Budget? If you want a mini amp there's a lot to choose from: http://wwv.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD1004/Pioneer-GM-D1004.html?tp=35782 http://wwv.crutchfield.com/p_020XC2410/Clarion-XC2410.html?tp=35782 http://wwv.crutchfield.com/p_500KTP445U/Alpine-KTP-445U-Power-Pack.html?tp=35782 http://wwv.crutchfield.com/p_530ST410KD/Soundstream-Stealth-ST4-1000D.html?tp=35782 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i1743_mini-amps.html Most of these are 4 channel and bridgeable into 2. If you have space to mount a larger amp (and not necessarily huge, I have an Alpine V60 inside a compact spare tire) I would put in a shallow mount subwoofer too. RCA into 3.5mm as an input would work but isn't ideal. There's this but power output is poo poo: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_70642_Kicker-PXiBT50.2-40PXIBT50.2.html Speakers in the kick panel would work, ideally you'd want to aim them if you have the room. I'd recommend component speakers with the tweeters mounted in/on the dash. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Mar 1, 2015 |
# ¿ Mar 1, 2015 16:09 |
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Tomarse posted:haha. DIN! A lot of the new mechless head units are half the depth as conventional ones ie http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74585_Pioneer-MVH-X560BT.html I don't know if that'll help you with your current mounting location. If water is coming from inside the cabin you could use that marine style mount or a front cover: http://m.ebay.com/itm/280761735874?_mwBanner=1 Marine decks have sealed fronts so the face plate area is water resistant. You could also mount a Sony head unit in the back and use their app to control it with your phone (which is what I plan to do with my Mini.) App Remote for control your smartphone with Sony'…: https://youtu.be/kaRtDMauLQM
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2015 21:11 |
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http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_f627-2356_i34_5-25-speakers-shallow-mount.html Top and bottom mounting depth is a listed specification for speakers.
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# ¿ Aug 26, 2015 19:25 |
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Gorson posted:I'm replacing the deck in my 90 Miata with a Pioneer DEH-1900MP and I'm currently soldering the wiring harnesses together. The harness that plugs into the Mazda oem wiring has both an orange (labeled "Illumination/dash light") and an orange/white (labeled "dimmer") but the harness that goes into the Pioneer only has orange/white (labeled "dimmer"). What is the correct way to wire this? Manufacturers can't seem to agree on the nomenclature. Most aftermarket stereos have an "illumination" input that will dim the display when it sees 12V rather than a true variable brightness control but it can still be called the "dimmer" wire. I'd connect the illumination wire off the adapter to the dimmer wire on the Pioneer but meter both wires on the adapter harness to be sure. The factory illumination wire is red/black. bigtom posted:Question - I just installed a Kenwood KDC-BT762HD in my 99 GMC Suburban. There's 6 speakers in the car- two in the front doors, two in the rear doors, and two above the cargo area near the back glass. The speakers in the front door work fine, as do the ones in the cargo area. However the two rear door speakers don't work - everything else functions perfectly. Googling leads me to believe I that the rear door speakers are powered by a separate factory amp that needs a signal from the head unit in order to turn on, but there wasn't a consensus on what wires to splice and where. Anyone here know what wires I need to splice where? I purchased the Metra wiring harness 70-1858 if that is any help. Thanks! Connect the amp turn on wire if you haven't.
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# ¿ Nov 13, 2015 19:15 |
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Wojcigitty posted:I have a somewhat weird question. You can get an aftermarket steering wheel control setup, small control pad/button that attaches to the wheel or else where. That's your best option besides retrofitting a factory setup. I've been researching a bunch, I could point you to some if you're interested.
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# ¿ Jun 28, 2016 02:15 |
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Wojcigitty posted:Definitely interested in that if you have a source then. Thanks! These products are more aimed at people wanting to run an audio system without a head unit, they pair to a bluetooth device and lets you have physical controls, aux in, etc: http://www.crutchfield.com/g_378550/Marine-Bluetooth-Adapters.html?tp=61776 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i1219_marine-remote-controls.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_80659_iSimple-BluClik-ISBC01.html http://www.nvx.com/bluetooth-kits/ This one is an aftermarket steering wheel control and will connect directly to the head unit giving you physical controls. I thought there were more out there but this is the only one I found so far: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36614_Axxess-RFASWC.html Edit: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-XI4KorpEsO5/p_158RMX4S/Sony-RM-X4S.html http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ukFfSqQznaw/p_113KOSA300/Kenwood-KOS-A300-Factory-Radio-Upgrade-System.html Neat! Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Jun 30, 2016 |
# ¿ Jun 30, 2016 04:32 |
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Bank posted:This is a dumb question, but I'm trying to figure out how to route an RCA video cable through a boot in the liftgate of my car (2005 Honda Pilot) so that it can reach the rear license plate. The boot already has some factory wires in there, and I can probably fish 1-2 more small wires through, but definitely not the RCA connector. What is it for? Seconding what everyone else has said, backup cameras have their own harness that plugs into a converter. I would not try to fish an RCA plug through a rubber boot. Edit: I think I know what you mean, is it a harness plug right where it enters the door? The only way is to drill out some unused spots in the plug and pass it through. That or drill your own holes, use grommets and run an additional harness alongside. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Aug 11, 2021 |
# ¿ Aug 11, 2021 19:37 |
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Darchangel posted:OK, but what about the camera? Ah yikes, yeah just get another camera that has a connector like what Darchangel posted. They're not expensive and it's not worth the hassle trying to run/crimp/possibly redo everything. Running the wires is easy, it just takes time removing panels to get access. Run the wire from the head unit down the driver's side dash, behind the kick panel, under the door sill panel/carpet, rear interior panels and through the factory boot. You'll have to take the interior panel off the hatch as well, a factory service manual will help with the interior removal.
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# ¿ Aug 12, 2021 01:13 |
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Double check the reverse light wires, touch the ground wire to a bolt/bare metal instead and see if that makes a difference. See if the power wire has 12 volts with the multimeter (youtube how to measure DC voltage with a multimeter.) The head unit also needs a reverse wire connection to switch the screen on automatically. If that's not connected the camera should still work if you're in reverse and if you select the camera icon on the head unit. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Sep 10, 2021 |
# ¿ Sep 10, 2021 23:05 |
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# ¿ May 5, 2024 11:04 |
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How's everyone liking the Atoto F7? Coworker is looking for a Carplay capable head unit and I'll be doing the installation.
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# ¿ Jul 4, 2022 15:14 |