|
Aftermarket Stereo Battery Drain Question! Hey folks - 2008 Honda Civic LX Upgraded the dash with a Scosche Double Din dash and put in an ATOTO F7 EX (the EX has wireless carplay and android auto) stereo. I also have an ATOTO 720p reverse cam that I'm going to install so I went ahead and ran the wires to the unit since I had everything out. The connectors the cam connects to the stereo are: RC In (yellow video) Red ACC power wire to ACC wire on back of unit (that is also connected to ACC wire on stereo adapter - so this one has 3 wires into one screw nut) And then a pink trigger wire to the head unit (goes from reverse light power wire to ATOTO unit - just to say "hey we're in reverse! show the cam!") I haven't installed the cam yet (weather) but will soon. SO these cables are just hanging out. The rest of the install went fine. Powered up and got everything going and yay great. Except two things: Back Right speaker doesn't work (I've checked the connection - the right wires are connected but maybe they contact sucks?) Battery drained over night. Quick searches is a pretty obvious problem - parasitic battery draw. I have a multimeter - but have never used it. Is there a quick way to see which wire is pulling the power on my head unit? I've watched a lot of "find the battery drain" videos but they're always starting from "have no idea what it is?" and then go into stuff I might not need. I'm like 99.9% sure it's the radio of course, so I didn't know if there's a way for me to identify specifically which part of the radio is doing it with the multimeter. Thanks! EDIT: One addendum. Here's the car behavior. Lights work fine and even after a few days I can power it on and listen to the radio. But it won't crank until I jump it off with my wife's car. Seems like if the battery was draining hard enough to not crank overnight, after a few more days there'd be *no* battery power. But obviously I can be wrong about that given my novice experience. BonoMan fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Jan 20, 2022 |
#
¿
Jan 20, 2022 21:19
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 11:39 |
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Hold up. How did you attach these wires? I'm on my phone at the moment but we have: Red acc wire from OEM adapter Red acc wire from new headset Red acc wire from reverse cam I have them all twisted together.  
BonoMan fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Jan 20, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Jan 20, 2022 21:45
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Two issues here, one that I'm certain of and one that I'm not. Thanks! I've pulled it all out and rewiring now with crimping. As for the camera. This model has the ability for live view... To be turned on while driving. I'm guessing that's the accessory power need.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 20, 2022 22:19
|
|
|
Could be. It's prob a few years old. Small update. The back right speaker is prob just busted. Still doesn't work. I did crimp hookups for everything and t spliced that camera acc hookup into it. Gonna see if I can go ahead and run the camera wires and at least hook it up to see if it works
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2022 00:54
|
|
|
Kick-Puncher posted:I got an Android auto head unit with a backup camera and I would like to install it in my 2003 Tacoma but I am wondering if there is a better way to tap into the harness besides the vampire taps that crutch field supplied. Are they terrible? The posi tap?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2022 02:04
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:Noooooooo Ok so what are my options here? Besides soldering? Edit: the camera works fine with the T Tap so I'm gonna leave it BonoMan fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Jan 21, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2022 02:05
|
|
|
Gotcha. I only had some 18 gauge crimps and they wouldn't fit but I did have some t taps that came with some other kit so that's why I used those. Luckily though it's the most accessible part so I can easily replace if it gets flaky. I'm guessing Crutchfield has some stock in Posi Taps/Posi Locks because they pimp them hard in every video. But they are way too expensive. Like $10 for a 5 pack
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2022 14:48
|
|
|
So battery dead again this morning. No surprise I guess. So far I have tested the alternator and it's fine. Charging battery now. Will test parasitic draw and battery health next. Then fuses. Then just pushing my car off a quarry cliff.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2022 17:28
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:
Yeah this is my next step.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2022 18:32
|
|
|
Ok unplugged and recharging it again. I left it charging for about 2 hours. Read 14.5 while running (thanks alternator) and then 12.6 when I turned it off. I checked for a parasitic draw and was getting a reading of 300-800 milliamps that would bounce all around that range. Within minutes of checking draw, reconnecting and restarting... couldn't crank. *Minutes* Read the battery - it was reading about 12.4 steady. I've unplugged the radio and am recharging (via running the car). I mean even if there *is* a parasitic draw, surely it wouldn't draw that fast right? Especially when it wasn't even getting over an amp? I saw one weird issue with body ground being bad and engine couldn't crank. But if I do jump the car off, run it for a while, shut it down and immediately restart... it cranks. Just not for if I leave it longer than 5-10 minutes.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2022 20:23
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Thirding bad battery. While I agree that it wasn't a complete parasitic draw test, if the peak load was 800mA and it only took a matter of minutes to go from "can crank" to "can't crank", that battery is hosed and I'm amazed it can crank in the first place. Thanks for all the responses (just not quoting them all). So I'm pretty sure it's the battery too. I'm also trying to do this all out in the freezing cold (it's about to snow) and I'm probably hurrying too fast. So if the battery is reading 12.4 at rest but won't crank... are we still sure it's the battery? Shouldn't 12.4 be enough to crank? I'm tired so I'm probably not thinking straight.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2022 20:56
|
|
|
Nocheez posted:Are you using an in-line ammeter between the positive post and the cable? You cannot crank during this as it will probably nuke your fuse I have to redo my parasitic draw test because a.) I didn't wait enough for it to rest like a previous poster said and b.) I noticed a door was cracked so... gently caress me. (refer back to me being "tired and cold and trying to do this out in the freezing cold before the snow comes"). I'm taking a breather right now to reset my brain. Lol. It shouldn't be this hard! We also have three insane screaming kids in our house (two are mine and one is the neighbor's).
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2022 20:58
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Not necessarily. Ideally you'd see what voltage it stays at while cranking (or attempting to crank). I'd bet it's dipping deep into single digits under load. Oh yeah I remember seeing this on a YT video and forgot to test it. I'll do it just to see what it says
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2022 21:10
|
|
|
Ok yeah with no stereo attached it reads 12.8.... Then I attempted to crank it and it dips to 5 lol.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2022 21:21
|
|
|
New battery who dis? Of course my battery was 10 days out or warranty. Of course. Still got $90 off a new one. Car cranks fine. The snow has started so I'll plug the stereo and cam back up later. Now I drink.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2022 22:38
|
|
|
Alright finalized the backup cam install, got everything hooked back up to the new battery... Now we wait.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 23, 2022 18:18
|
|
|
Cage posted:I can do double, I just liked the single din lil jet. :3 The ATOTO F7 EX I got is pretty awesome once I got all my battery issues sorted out. Think I got it for $230?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2022 20:24
|
|
|
RIP Paul Walker posted:The cheapest MiniDSP works fine but only provides .9v output which simply isn't enough for home or car audio. The 2/.9 v distinction that they make on the website only applies to the input, it does not apply to the output. Is there, like, a MiniDSP for dummies somewhere? I don't have the budget to be doing that at all at the moment, but it's interesting and I'd like to know more
|
|
#
¿
Jan 31, 2022 21:36
|
|
|
RIP Paul Walker posted:MiniDSP on easy mode is just getting one with Dirac Live and following the prompts. It tells you where to place the microphone and does much of the heavy lifting for you. Sorry - I just meant conceptually - like what's going on.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 31, 2022 21:57
|
|
|
A minute? Geez that's painfully long ha.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 6, 2022 05:09
|
|
|
Tom Guycot posted:For what its worth in this talk about android head units, I bought a ATOTO one to replace the old stock cd player in my car about 6 months ago, and its been flawless. I ended up with one because I really wanted android auto functionality, and the requirements for the name brand units to need to wire up to brake lines and poo poo for safety stuff was just too much to want to bother with. It also has a mic on the unit itself so I could avoid running another cable in the dash and mounting another microphone somewhere which I also didn't want to do. Mine's been running great too and turned out my battery issue was just a dead battery sooooo
|
|
#
¿
Feb 15, 2022 01:56
|
|
|
Advent Horizon posted:Are there any backup cameras that stick to the inside of a rear window? If I mount to my license plate frame I either have to drill through my tailgate for the wires (in and back out), or run it down from the plate and stare at the wire. If I mount it behind the glass I can route the wiring through existing channels and use the rear wiper to keep the view clean. I don't see why it couldn't. May take some finagling, but I think my atoto backup cam even came with a secondary adhesive mount. Maybe for cases like this? Not sure. You'll just need to really keep your back window clean. And not sure how feasible that is with a Land Rover in Alaska.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 17, 2022 21:28
|
|
|
Advent Horizon posted:Trailer hitch seems like an obvious location. I looked for cameras but it seems like the best might be DIY for that spot. Lol sorry. I will say as someone that just did this. The Atoto ones have a thicker connector so the hole I had to drill was huge.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 18, 2022 00:51
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:drat, that's crazy. I really hope that's just some kind of weird device quirk because if they're all like that, I'd call it unacceptable. I timed my Atoto F7 EX (with wireless Android Auto) and it was 20 seconds to boot and an additional 5 seconds to connect and start playing. So 25 total.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 18, 2022 15:54
|
|
|
everdave posted:I ordered a Spotify car thing it is here. I am thinking I will just use it hooked to my 80s/90s era receiver and equipment in the house. Yeah I got one back during the invite/beta thing. Honestly I liked it a lot. Then I upgraded my unit to an in-dash 7" Android Auto unit. I still like the Car Thing better. If you use Spotify a lot it's a no brainer. However, just so you're aware - all it does is act as a controller for your phone. Your phone is what has to be hooked up to whatever stereo you're playing. The Car Thing itself doesn't produce any audio. Which is obviously not an issue in a car, but if you're hooking it up to a local stereo you'll need to have your phone connected to that stereo via aux or bluetooth (via aux adapter since yours is old).
|
|
#
¿
Jun 16, 2022 22:11
|
|
|
everdave posted:No please tell me that is wrong, yes I’m 100% Spotify fiend. I have to plug my phone in? If so this is going in the garbage that can’t be right? I can’t open tonight I hope that is wrong but thank you I’ll see…dang it Yes there's no aux or audio output *from* the Car Thing. It merely acts as the controller for your phone. It's meant to be used in the car (obviously hence the name) so that's not really an issue. But using it as a home stereo controller obviously would be.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 16, 2022 23:25
|
|
|
everdave posted:So I can’t Bluetooth to the car thing? Well I spend an insane amount of time buying anything reading reviews I got a $20 off email on this and played the wicker. Good lesson to learn I mean yes it connects to your phone via Bluetooth. But that's just for the control function. You connect to the car thing via Bluetooth then from your phone to your car via aux from phone or Bluetooth as well.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 17, 2022 12:42
|
|
|
Bulk Vanderhuge posted:How's everyone liking the Atoto F7? Coworker is looking for a Carplay capable head unit and I'll be doing the installation. Still liking mine that I use with wireless Android auto although it has developed a few quirks such as starting in night mode when it's daytime till I cycle the headlights and it doesn't start the home screen sometimes I have to press the home button to get it to go to the home screen.. but those are very tiny quirks everything else has been pretty flawless
|
|
#
¿
Jul 4, 2022 22:28
|
|
|
That's literally the model I have. Works as advertised with a few tiny quirks but they aren't deal breakers or anything. Well worth it for how cheap it was.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 12, 2022 15:02
|
|
|
Dang that's a great price
|
|
#
¿
Jul 12, 2022 16:51
|
|
|
I would blow Dane Cook posted:Spotify Car Thing is on clearance for 29.99$ because they aren't making them anymore. God I'm tempted to get another one just to control spotify in my car. The Android Auto Spotify interface is rear end and this worked great the first one I had.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 29, 2022 04:27
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:drat, thats a bummer...im considering getting an atoto for my element...might just go with BOSS instead. and i might just spring for the 30 dollar asurion 3yr warranty I have the same unit and it totally slaps for the price so... go for it!
|
|
#
¿
Jan 27, 2023 02:05
|
|
|
Just some random notes for ATOTO F7 XE Firmware Updates. A.) Their site is total garbage for trying to find exactly what you need. My exact model number wasn't listed and even getting to the closest variant... the directions for WHAT you need exactly are totally unclear. So just reach out to support with your model/serial number and you'll get direct links to exactly what you need. B.) The head units are particularly sensitive about what you use. The instructions from the support rep said to use an SD Card (there's an SD Card *and* USB Port on front) no bigger than 8 gb. Well I had SD Cards 32 gig and above but no 8GB. I did, however, have an 8GB thumb drive. So I decided to use that (formatted FAT32). There are two things you need to update when updating an ATOTO headset. The MCU firmware and the SOC firmware. (Microcontroller and System on a Chip) I used the 8GB for the MCU and it updated just fine. But when I used it for the SOC... the screen would just go black and it sat there forever. Turns out it just didn't like that thumbdrive for whatever reason. I switched to a 32GB SD Card for the SOC firmware and it updated just fine. So... TMYK for updating ATOTO firmwares.
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2023 17:57
|
|
|
DrChu posted:Did you notice any benefit from updating my the firmware? I working on installing one now that’s basically just going to be used for CarPlay so it may not even be worthwhile for me to update. The only reason I did it is because I was having this issue where when I turn on the car... it doesn't boot to home screen. The unit booted up fine and AA connected fine (my music would start playing like normal), but it would just sit there on the wallpaper with no icons until I hit the home button. So, functionally fine... just an extra button press on bootup that was annoying. So far it seems to have fixed that problem... but also I had to factory reset the unit before doing it so who knows if that's actually what solved it instead! And as far as I can tell there's no useful changelog anywhere so... who knows.
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2023 18:33
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 11:39 |
|
|
defmacro posted:Ah okay, that makes sense given all the features supported by the Kenwood ones. Thanks! For the record I installed a pretty awesome ATOTO 7" touchscreen in my 2008 Honda Civic with a dash modification kit. All in was like $300 for the kit and head unit. Has wireless AA and Car Play
|
|
#
¿
Jan 9, 2024 22:01
|
|