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I've had a 1998 Jetta TDI as my primary car since 2005 and I highly approve of this thread. Want to make 300ft-lbs at 2000 RPM and get 40 MPG at 100 MPH? Then get a TDI. Edit: You've got the years a little messed up. 1997 to early 99 was the 1Z or AHU engine. 99.5-03 was the ALH. 04-06 was the PD engine. Nothing for 2007 and then the Common Rail 2.0 Liter came out in 08. There wasn't a big change between the AHU and ALH engines. Rated horsepower stayed the same at 90. Torque went from 145 ft-lbs to 150. The main difference was a change from a turbocharger with a wastegate to one with variable vane geometry, which increased fuel economy to 50+ MPG for people that wanted to cruise down the highway at 1600-2000 RPM in 5th gear. Opensourcepirate fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Dec 6, 2012 |
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Dec 6, 2012 05:19
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I did a job installing wiring in the ceiling of an elementary school one summer. The machine room had a backup Diesel generator. A 12 Liter 6 cylinder Diesel generator with a pretty massive turbocharger. I was very distracted by it.
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Dec 6, 2012 05:32
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dash_aremsc posted:If I am looking to get a TDI Golf (ideal) or Jetta in the $6000-$8000 range, approximately what sorts of mileage should I look for to find a good deal? Any suggestions for best venues to get a deal on diesel in the US? I know more about the older TDI's than the newer ones that would fall in that price range, unless you want to buy a heavily modified older one or a wagon. I'd recommend a manual transmission - better mileage and the automatics are known for having issues. Lots of miles isn't too scary, but miles wear out lots of components other than the engine, and that has to be taken into account. Timing belts are essential for these cars and should be taken into account price wise. A lot of cars will be sold when they're due to have a timing belt done, and the seller might not mention it - so check the recommended interval and the time it was done on any car you look at. You can check out the cars that are listed on tdiclub.com Those cars usually aren't cheap though. Basically just the standard places to check -vwvortex, craigslist, and ebay. I've never towed with one, but I've heard good things, which is to say that these cars tow well for cars of their size/weight. These cars are sometimes rated higher for towing when they're sold in Europe than in the US, which as far as I know is just VW not wanting to get sued in America when someone does something stupid. If you're getting one of the older 90 HP models, I highly recommend a tuning chip. If you upgrade more than the tuning chip you'll probably need to do the clutch too. Edit: If the clutch get's done, you want to have a VR6 clutch put on, which is usually gets put on anyway. So if you get a car that's already had the clutch done, try to figure out what clutch was put on. Opensourcepirate fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Dec 8, 2012 |
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Dec 8, 2012 02:11
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There's a couple of factors. One is that winter Diesel fuel has a lot of additives to keep it from gelling up and generally gives you worse power and fuel economy than summer Diesel. The car will get worse fuel economy when the engine is cold, and Diesel engines take a lot longer to warm up than gasoline engines. Glow plugs help heat the engine up faster, but the higher drain on the alternator lowers economy. Due to the reasons in the second paragraph, you'll take a much larger hit on a lot of short trips starting with the engine cold than you will on a longer drive with the engine warmed up most of the time.
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Dec 11, 2012 06:43
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CommieGIR posted:Did they remove the coolant glow plugs on later model TDIs? That was the whole point was to keep the engine at optimal temperature... I'm not sure if they have them heating the coolant or just the cylinder heads. Either way they'll be lowering your fuel economy while they're running, even if they do get you up to an efficient engine temperature faster. Edit: IDParts (.com) is having a bunch of winter fronts custom made. They're starting with the A4 Jetta/Golf (99 to 05 or 06), but they're planning to do them for newer and older cars as well. Opensourcepirate fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Dec 11, 2012 |
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Dec 11, 2012 20:21
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The price difference between diesel and gasoline depends highly on the time of year. Diesel fuel meets the requirements for home heating oil, and the reverse is sometimes true - the standards are looser on heating oil - so the price of Diesel goes up in the winter as heating oil comes into demand. During the summer I've seen Diesel be the same price as premium gasoline.
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Dec 12, 2012 17:39
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I've been talking to the other New England guys about putting the engine from my Jetta into my 944. I'm just not insane enough right now to turn 2 working cars into 0 working cars. I just need a blown headgasket in the Porsche and the Jetta to get rear ended and it's happening.
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Dec 13, 2012 07:24
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My understanding of the train situation is that they can't reasonably produce a transmission to mate the Diesel engines to the tracks - having multiple speeds would be a nightmare. They use the electric motors because they have ridiculous torque at 0 RPM and are able to spin pretty fast so they can get away with only having one gear ratio.
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Dec 14, 2012 15:17
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I'm not sure how dumb of a question this is, but it seems like a lot of box trucks (like the thread with the F600) have Diesel engines that really don't put out more power than a well tuned (bigger turbo, injectors) 1.9L TDI. What would happen if you tried to run a box truck with one of those engines? Would it destroy itself with ridiculous exhaust temperatures from running hard all the time?
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Dec 19, 2012 05:43
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Wikipedia and TDIClub both say that it was 2004 that the PD engine came in. I'm pretty sure that the VE engine was used from 97-2003, with the ALH/AHU change in 99.
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Dec 30, 2012 03:00
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I live in MA and it's definitely rust that kills TDI's around here. The last time I went to a TDIClub meet there were two cars with more than 400,000 miles. I don't know if I'm ever going to own a TDI again though, just because I don't drive enough miles to justify the high prices they command on the used market. If I was buying a new car it would be more worth it. If you want a car that's not going to break but you don't drive a lot of miles, I'd probably just get like a Civic. You can get something a few years newer with a gasoline engine for the same prices as a TDI.
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Dec 30, 2012 06:47
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You can easily get a TDI idling along in 5th without touching the fuel pedal, you just need to let the clutch out easy with each shift.
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Jan 12, 2013 08:29
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Tyro posted:Looking locally I see a 2006 Jetta with 170K miles, maint records, and new brake pads, front rotors, clutch, tires, and battery within the last year asking $6900 negotiable. Also a 2001 4 door Golf with 125K miles asking $5500. Both are manual transmission. I have no preference on body type. I think the mileage is totally acceptable on either one if they check out without any other issues. Neither price strikes me as outrageous, but also not particularly good. Anything TDI-specific that I need to be on the lookout for when looking for a cheaper used one? Any model years to avoid? I don't think there's any years to avoid. The VE Engines (96-2003) are very reliable, and the PD engines (2004-2006) are similar except for some issues with camshafts wearing out / breaking. This means that the kind of oil used is more important for the newer engines, as using the wrong oil can accelerate cam wear. http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/camshaft-inspection-replace-vw-tdi.htm The 2006 Jetta sounds like a better deal with the limited information provided.
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Jan 22, 2013 06:18
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KozmoNaut posted:If any of you have yet to drive the misery machine known as the Seat Ibiza Ecomotive (slash Polo Bluemotion slash Fabia Greenline), I have only one piece of advice. Don't. Doing some quick google searches, there's definitely some tuning options available. I saw web pages for a few boxes that claim 95 HP and a youtube video for a chip claiming 105. Aside from potential warranty problems, I would highly recommend tuning it.
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Jan 22, 2013 23:15
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In my 98 Jetta TDI, the temperature will definitely drop at idle on really cold days. Covering the front (which I haven't done yet this year because I'm lazy) definitely helps, although probably doesn't make much difference when totally stopped. All the stuff I've read on TDIClub and elsewhere has said that it's pointless to start the car early to let it warm up, because they just don't put out enough heat at idle to do anything meaningful. In terms of tuning talk - if the car is under warranty, I would think that a tuning box would be the way to go. They work by modifying the signal between the sensors and the ECU. They're not as effective as an ECU reprogramming/chip, because they can't advance the injection timing or do some other fancy things, but they shouldn't leave any incriminating evidence if they're taken out before servicing.
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Jan 23, 2013 05:52
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I've started running Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 in my 98 Jetta TDI and it actually takes a few thousand miles to blacken much. I check the level like every other time I fill up the tank and for a while I was having a hard time seeing where the line was.
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Feb 2, 2013 01:59
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CommieGIR posted:Eh, I need to switch to oversize piston rings to fix my excessive blow-by, then maybe my oil won't turn black as night. Try the T6. I've seen people recommend it for a lot of reasons on TDIClub. I used to use the Mobil 1 5W-40 and I think it blackened up a lot more quickly.
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Feb 2, 2013 04:36
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I'm pretty sure that all Audis have their bodies galvanized. Given the reliability of the old VE engines, rust has been the death of a lot of the TDI's sold in the North America.
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Feb 7, 2013 23:35
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If you have easy access to biodiesel, using a low percentage works great for lubricity; like 2-5%. There's some fairly extensive threads on lubricity and additives on the tdiclub forums. Edit: And an 03 will do fine with higher levels of biodiesel. You can't go too high on the new 2.0 CR engines because it screws up the regen cycle. VW will also void the warranty for biodiesel fuel use above a certain threshold, which I think is 5%. Yeah, I just looked it up and and you can up to B5. Opensourcepirate fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Feb 10, 2013 |
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Feb 10, 2013 07:41
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Isn't the Golf TDI we get pretty close to a GTI though, aside from the engine?
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Feb 12, 2013 17:08
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Shifty Pony posted:Mechanic question: as long as a mechanic has VW experience they should be all good to work with the TDI correct? There are a number of dedicated diesel techs around but I think that they primarily work with truck engines a I don't know if they would be used to VWs um, unique, way of cramming poo poo in awful locations. The safest bet is try to find a mechanic that's recommended by people on tdiclub.com. VW dealerships have actually been kind of notoriously bad for having techs that suck at working on Diesels, but maybe that's getting better as it seems like TDI's are becoming more popular.
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Feb 16, 2013 03:27
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Don't hate him, just convince him to put it in a 944 like we keep talking about in New England.
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Mar 11, 2013 04:19
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CommieGIR posted:The VVT turbo makes the TDI what it is, as soon as they switched to the variable vane turbo TDIs went from being somewhat slow on acceleration to phenomenally fast. The 3rd generation Jetta TDI (wastegate) was rated at 90 HP and 145 ft-lbs. The 4th generation (variable geometry) was 90 HP and 150 (149?) ft-lbs. It's definitely an improvement, especially for fuel economy because you start getting boost at lower RPMs, but it wasn't a sudden drastic power jump.
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Mar 14, 2013 00:44
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keykey posted:Aaaand I'm at $250 left to throw at the fucker until I knock it in the head. Supposedly I have a bad gasket on the turbo where the boost pressure control difference is coming from.. I just changed the turbo and gaskets around it 300 miles ago, sooooo I'll see where this one takes me. Probably back hunting for more codes and more money to throw at it..  Have you checked/replaced this hose? Also I think there's a similar one to the right of it that you can't see in this picture. I was getting that code on my 98 TDI and hunting down all sorts of stupid stuff until Kastein noticed a huge rip down the center. We patched it with duct tape, an aluminum can, and hose clamps until I could get a replacement. Edit: Maybe there's not another hose next to it. Opensourcepirate fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Apr 23, 2013 |
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Apr 23, 2013 19:24
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I've heard nothing but good things about that skidplate. I looked into getting one for my car but I couldn't find much for an A3 Jetta. The height of the oil pan isn't very far removed from the bottom of the front bumper/grille, so solid objects can easily tear a hole in it.
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Apr 24, 2013 04:10
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These cars will do 500k, so you're not really doing yourself that many favors by getting a low mileage one. It's nice, but I wouldn't fly that far for one. Other people may have different opinions though.
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May 2, 2013 01:41
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Also TDI's can be very easily modified for more power, without sacrificing any fuel economy when not using the extra power. I recommend everyone get at least a tuning chip for the older 90 HP models.
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May 3, 2013 00:48
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NitroSpazzz posted:I see these chips mentioned all the time but still haven't picked one up for my 2000 TDI. All the reviews I find talk about the power increase and mention slightly better MPG as a bonus. How much better economy are people seeing with these chips and what ones are recommended? There are chips designed specifically for economy, although if you would have really wanted one to pay for itself you would surely have had to do it a long time ago. They'll likely gain you 2 or 3 mpg. I have the standard "Stage 2" chip by Rocketchip(.com). It spools the turbo up to 17 psi instead of 14 and does some other stuff like probably advancing the injection timing a little bit. The extra boost ups your power at high throttle (and doesn't affect economy at lower loads), and the timing changes can improve economy a little bit. I've definitely seen people report 1 or 2 mpg increases. I haven't seen improvements, but I make good use of my extra power. There's also higher stages. Stage 3 is basically just more boost, and then there's a super fancy Stage 6 that requires a new fuel pump and extends the power band up past 5k RPM. I'd recommend just getting a Rocketchip stage II. Unless you're unlucky it shouldn't be enough to slip your stock clutch. Edit: Upsolute is another popular chip. Some places do custom tuning and may be better for economy. I think kermatdi is a popular place. Opensourcepirate fucked around with this message at 07:59 on May 5, 2013 |
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May 5, 2013 07:55
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The automatic transmission worries me, as they tend to die with enough miles. I forget what the timing belt interval is on that model. I've got an older one ('98) and the interval is 60k miles, so 184k would mean that either it was just done or it's overdue for one. If it is due for a timing belt, that should be factored into the price. You'll likely need a new engine in the timing belt snaps, so it shouldn't be put off.
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May 9, 2013 00:40
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As I keep mentioning, there were two B4 Passats with more than 400,000 miles at the last tdiclub meet I went to. More than half a million is always a treat though. I wonder what's been replaced on that car... Those slightly newer engines (2004-2006) are known for the cams wearing out, especially when wrong/thin oil is used. The injection pump usually needs replacing at 300-400k. Who knows for the turbo and some other parts.
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Jun 6, 2013 05:11
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I was told that if you chip them then completely drop the clutch at idle in 1st gear, all four tires will spin instead of the car stalling. I can't confirm that though.
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Jul 1, 2013 03:57
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BlackMK4 posted:drat thing is pretty quick for what I had expected and the gas mileage is almost at what my Triumph was doing... I think I kinda like this car. Time to finish my 2000 Yamaha R1 trackbike before I lose my poo poo though. Does it have a tuning chip? I'd highly recommend getting one.
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Aug 16, 2013 05:38
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My fuel was leaking out where it wasn't supposed to after doing the hammer mod, so I did two gaskets on my injector pump this weekend. All the guides had me do the top gasket at the same time as the QA gasket, but it didn't really seem necessary when I did it. I also saw a lot of variation in how much stuff I needed to take off. I ended up leaving most of the flexible poo poo connected. I had to take it apart again though because I guess I didn't seat the pin correctly in the hole and the engine just cranked and cranked without starting. I have a Stage 2 Rocketchip and Sprint 520 injectors. The fuel quantity was at like 2.0 and there was a lot of smoke. Now it's at about 5 and the smoke is much more reasonable.
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Sep 24, 2013 05:43
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I think part of the reason that newer turbos need less cool-down time is that newer oils hold up to high temperatures better - old oils would turn into nasty carbon poo poo if flow stopped while they were inside a hot turbo. The two main reasons to add things to your fuel are gelling and lubricity. Gelling is obviously just a cold climate thing, but lubricity affects everyone. The reason that High Pressure Fuel Pumps die when run on gasoline is the lack of lubricity, and the HPFPs on the earlier 2.0L TDI's are known for dying anyway. One of the best things to add for lubricity is ordinary biodiesel - like even a percent or two. I think newer TDI's allow up to 5% biodiesel, so keep that in mind.
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Oct 9, 2013 03:01
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I just ordered $80 worth of POR-15 and related products. The injectors are way out of balance on my TDI, making it way smokier than I want it to be. I doesn't make sense for me to put in new ones if my car is rusting away, so I'm going to see how much I can sand, paint, and patch. If that goes well, I'll order a balanced set of PP520's through DBW's hot swap program.
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Oct 15, 2013 03:43
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How much pressure did the original turbo make? It sounds like you need a tune to get rid of limp mode if you're going to make as much power as you want.
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Oct 15, 2013 19:23
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The ones you get from DBW aren't just nozzles, they're balanced on injectors as well. It might make sense to use a VAG-COM to see how well your system is balanced right now. I've used one on mine, and I know that one of my injectors is way out of balance from the others, so I need to get things balanced. The actual injector tips are only like $250, and you should be able to order those straight from DBW anyway if that' all you want.
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Oct 18, 2013 14:26
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It seems like you've tried everything to the point that maybe trying a new ECU would make sense. Maybe a custom tuner would make a deal with you where you'd pay them if they can fix your limp mode; there's some nice guys in the TDI community.
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Nov 7, 2013 19:25
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That's one hell of a kitten. What's with the smoke coming from the engine bay? I e-mailed DBW about getting my injectors balanced. I wish I'd sprung for the PP instead of the Sprint 520's, but I also really need to get them balanced. Not sure if I should upgrade or just fix up the Sprints.
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Nov 11, 2013 04:54
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 03:26 |
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The starter in my Jetta worked great, up until the point where the wire from the solenoid to the starter completely came apart. I decided to put in a new one for $100 instead of doing a dodgy repair. I know that the starter before that also failed completely one after working fine, but I'm not sure if it was the same issue as I just push started it (actually two nice police officers pushed me!) and drove it to a mechanic. Opensourcepirate fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Nov 12, 2013 |
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Nov 12, 2013 02:27
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