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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

The Tenaya Tanta is my preferred bang for the buck gym shoe, $110 full price and if you wait for a coupon or sale you can get them for around $90. Although I am using a really old pair of Scarpa Vapors right now.

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Learn to belay, learn to lead, learn to clean. Go with the
group a couple times. Ask to learn if you don't know how.

Right wrong or otherwise i took a lead class at the gym and learn to clean anchors from YouTube 15 years ago and went straight to the red.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

You look super psyched. big rope climbs are just the best.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

I only use an ATC for doubles or a snow objective that needs a rope. Grigri otherwise.

Everyone who i have seen hit the deck or almost hit the deck (myself included) was being belated by an atc. It is all about knowing what you are doing though.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Slimy Hog posted:

I just climbed off width for the first time this weekend and although I have brisues all over my body, I enjoyed it?

did you go to Vedauwoo?

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Slimy Hog posted:

Did y'all climb mostly sport? I've been meaning to check that area out for some trad, but it sounds like we should skip it.

And since you like crag photos, here's a picture of the voo I took yesterday


There is legitimately no reason to go to North Table for climbing. You are better off at movement.

Slimy Hog posted:

Yep! My wife planned a short trip for me and a buddy as a father's day present. It was pretty awesome, the approaches were nonexistent and the friction was SO good.

We did Edward's crack, some 5.4 on the Nautilus and a "5.7" on Poland Hill called sugar crack that felt way harder than 5.7 to me.

Best thing for the Voo, jeans, long sleeves, and crack gloves. I some 5.8 there once, really hard.


Slow News Day posted:

Planning a trip to Colorado in August. Will stay in Colorado Springs.

What are some good climbing areas within close proximity (~90 min drive)? I know of Shelf Road and Devil's head, and Eleven Mile Canyon further to the west. There's also Garden of the Gods but the reviews are mixed - lots of climbers complain about tourists, and the climbing being not that great. Any others?

Shelf will be way too hot. GoG probably as well, and not worth it imo. Eleven mile should be ok temps, the climbing there is ok but not a destination imo. Devil's head has some great stuff and should have ok temps.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Slow News Day posted:

Thanks. We're in Central Texas so we're used to climbing in 100 degree weather. When I went to SR several years ago me and my group were able to climb all day without issue. If memory serves, you can go to different walls throughout the day to stay in the shade and/or under tree cover.

To each their own . If it is 100F out you will have the place to yourself. You probably will regardless actually.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Just climb. Eventually you will be as strong as the 12 year old girls at the gym.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

I was making a joke you nerds. I suppose "eventually" was doing the heavy lifting.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

There is always someone better than you. Someone will always warm up on your project. Get over it.

Also it is a gym, the route will be gone in 6-8 weeks. Boohoo some kids sent it easy and you didn't figure it out.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Running out of rope, nowhere to place gear, and sitting around a bush belaying off my harness to bring up my second. Granted it was only 5.5 terrain but not ideal.

Quickdraw unclipping from a bolt during a fall somehow. Still don't know how. Made for a long fall.

Spotting some random 5 year old on a V1. He pops off at the very top. I more or less catch him after he bounces off a tree and plop him into the mat.

Too many times people yelling up to others how to clean and watching them unclip and maybe about to plunge.

Climbing past marginal pieces that the rope immediately lifts out of place.

I really haven't had too many crazy things happen. Kept things solid I guess.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Sab669 posted:

Huh, dang. I've completely worn out my Evolvs, can see my bare toe through a nice big hole in the box.

Ordered some Tarantulas, got 2 different sizes as I wasn't 100% sure what to get but even the smaller of the two sizes feels too big. Slightly annoying as now I'm gonna order a third smaller pair to see if those fit even better than the smaller of the original two.

My Katanas in a 42 are hard as hell to put on, but these 41.5 Tarantulas slip on easier than whatever size my current Evolvs are (the tags are so worn off I have no idea)

Don't do that. Watch your shoes, don't drag your toes, get resoles done. Although if you have to mail the shoes around it can be a bit expensive. Usually still worth it though.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

What I really meant is you need to resole them before it becomes an issue. Those shoes are hilarious.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

You didn't send it free. You could say you sent it aid.

Not sure how the word "cheat" has anything to do with it. There are no rules for you climbing unless they are your own. If you said you sent it free you would just be a liar.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Slow News Day posted:

Has anyone climbed at Devil’s Head, CO? I got the guidebook for it and it sounds like an awesome area, but wanted to see if anyone has first hand experience.

I have mixed feelings on it. Are you looking sport or trad? The area is very pretty and there are fun climbs and tons of choss. I haven't been up there in probably 5 years though. It felt like there was a lot of bush whacking back then.

It is totally worth going for some visits if you are in the area though.

E: Looking at my ticks on mountain project I gave most everything 1-2 stars. Wishbone Dihedral was my only 4 star climb on the list. It was very good. I also liked mini-splitter and upperdeck-n-spackle.

Looks like the last time I was there was 2017... drat.

spwrozek fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Oct 4, 2023

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Sport only. Devil's Head if the road is open, clear Creek, Boulder canyon. They all have 5 star routes so you can be picky. If you want to feel good about your climbing grade for sure clear Creek.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Baddog is correct.

Clear Creek is indeed soft imo. 10a/b in clear Creek is a 9 in Bocan I find.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Well that is very hosed up. Glad they stopped him.

Anachronist and I did a couple good routes down in the south Platte on Sunday. It was a beautiful day and we climbed well.

Did this one in 6 pitches
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/115391614

Then this one in 3
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/114956407

Anachronist put this up for good measure. I was toast though and didn't climb it.
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/115776113

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

drat. Nice job.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Baddog posted:

That looks awesome man!

I'm foolishly heading down the path of building our own, I think the kilter holds are gonna get here way before we get the board made though.

Are those 2x6s on the framing? Feels way solid even with just 3 cross pieces? I've seen some where people just go nuts with bracing, but this seems pretty minimal.

If you get a sec, can I get a picture of the hinge?

It does seem like not enough studs. The wood walls I have built we always ran then 18" on center (24" is probably OK though).

spwrozek fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Dec 28, 2023

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

ATC in guide mode sucks though. So much better using a grigri. Slapping an ATC in the back of your harness for the rap is no big deal. You can also do a biner block single stand rap if you want.

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