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Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

I went bouldering for the first time yesterday and now I'm kicking myself for not trying it out a few years ago when a gym opened up right off my train stop.

I definitely made the newbie mistake of using my upper body too much and plan on focusing on keeping my arms straight next time; now I just have to wait until my aging body stops being sore so I can cimb again.

EDIT: In a lot of ways it reminded me of skateboarding: you try something over and over again until you get it and in between you watch someone else. The community at my gym is also super welcoming and had the perfect mixture of giving helpful advice and letting you fail on your own.

Slimy Hog fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Dec 23, 2018

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Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Verviticus posted:

i also did this exact same weight loss in this exact same timeframe, but i feel about the same

edit: that said, i dropped from 210 to 195 which is somewhat likely to be a smaller fraction of my weight than you

I'm on track to do something similar; I've lost 7 pounds since late Dec (212 to 205). Yay to losing weight in order to climb harder.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

enraged_camel posted:

yeah, if you're 67 years old

edit: the nice thing about climbing gyms is that they tend to have many different types of problems. so you can work on crimpy problems one day, then overhangs the next, then slabs the next, etc. That way, you won't put undue burden on a single muscle/tendon group.

Won't climbing engage the tendons in your hands/fingers no matter what? (I guess if you're doing some weird no-hand route it wont)

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

armorer posted:

Completing a climb with no falls or "takes" (resting with the rope holding your weight, for roped climbs) is called "sending it" or a "send". Doing that on your first attempt at the climb without knowing anything about it beforehand, and without having watched someone else climb it is called an "on sight". Doing that when you have some prior knowledge of the climb or have watched someone on it already is a "flash". Sending the climb after one or more attempts, thus not an onsight or a flash, is called a "red point"

I've never heard anyone say that they on-sighted a gym bouldering problem, and instead have heard flash more often. Is that a my gym only thing or does the community as a whole not say on site for gym problems?

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

People hating on climbing terminology is the worst thing about the sport; the terminology itself is not too bad and it gives everyone a common language to talk about the same thing.


The whole "Climbing terms suck and are silly" is a meme at this point.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

spwrozek posted:

Hard to tell for sure but on video 2 I would be interested in you trying the following:

Match undercling start
Left hand to first hold on right, turn right hip
Right foot on foot between hand and foot start
Right had to second jug (cross)
Left had to third jug (cross again)

From there hard to tell but maybe right foot up, match hands, swing feet, move hands to finish

P.S. I am totally Adam Ondra-ing in my hotel room right now :)

Careful, you might get a noise complaint from so much screaming.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Mons Hubris posted:

I, for one, appreciate the videos and beta chat ITT

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

crazycello posted:

this is why I dribble a basketball with my feet. if it feels natural, easy, and is effective, are you even developing real strength??? i think not.

Can we not quibble over climbing techniques, good lord.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Slimy Hog posted:

Can we not quibble over climbing techniques, good lord.

Actual content:
I am visiting my in-laws in LA and went to my second-ever climbing gym (I've only been climbing since Dec) and the holds were smooth as glass! The gym I go to in Chicago is fairly new and all the holds have a good amount of texture on them, so I had to really adjust the way I was climbing. It was a fun challenge and forced me to put more pressure on my feet and keep my body tension up.

All-in-all I had a good time and climbed some fun projects.

Slimy Hog fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Feb 22, 2019

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Mezzanon posted:

What does it mean when you can do 15 pull ups but only 2 dips?

AriTheDog posted:

It means you should do more dips.

This is me.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

enraged_camel posted:

Yeah, I can emphathize with Caldwell. I do remember the part about his dad, and he did explicitly say he had a slow early development and his teachers even thought he was stupid.


Knowing yourself is a good thing. Being a total rear end in a top hat to other people, especially those who are close to you, is not. It doesn't take a genius to figure out that telling your significant other that your hobby is more important than them will seriously hurt their feelings, and is pretty far from "kindness".

I agree with most of what you're trying to say, but there is a difference between climbing as a hobby and being a professional athlete.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

enraged_camel posted:

There is a difference for sure, but again, it does not justify treating others like crap.

Do you disagree?

Oh not not at all. Alex seems like a huge weirdo and from what I saw in Free Solo, his girlfriend seems to rank lower on his priority list than his breakfast.

Baronash posted:

"I don't take you into consideration with my climbing because if I die you'll move on" is a pretty horrific thing to say to someone you have actively chosen to share at least part of your life with, whether it's your livelihood or not.

I agree with this, all I was trying to say was that this is closer to "LOL I don't care about you as much as my career" than it is "LOL I don't care about you as much as I do climbing on the weekends" but now that I type that out, I'm starting to see that it's a mixture of the two and that he would probably not care just as much if he wasn't professional.

What a bunch of dumb words about a guy I don't really care about.

REAL CONTENT:

I was out of town for two weeks, only got to climb twice, which sucked. Then I got back to town, went to the gym once and kinda just ran around and saw that they somehow reset like 1/3 of the gym and tried a BUNCH of random stuff..... and then I got REALLY sick.

I can't wait to get back to it....whenever my body finally recovers.

Slimy Hog fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Mar 11, 2019

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Hauki posted:

I've been trying to downclimb more boulders, not necessarily with exact food & hand placements in reverse, but I have noticed how much easier/more difficult some moves are coming down.

I do want to try sticky hands/feet though, I realized I don't really think through my movements so much as just try poo poo and see how it feels.

Are you me?

I'm now at the point where I can easily do V2's in my gym and most V3's I can get done if I try them a few times. At this point it feels like my limiting factor is my technique so I'm gonna try a bunch of these drills and see which ones improve my climbing.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

I went to the gym twice yesterday and didn't die like I thought I would. The second time I was only able to finish problems that were 1-2 grades lower than my usual level, but I still had a ton of fun and did some interesting problems.


I was super tired and sore at the end of the day yesterday, but today I'm feeling pretty good.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008


Both of you shut the gently caress up. Nobody cares about your bickering.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Sab669 posted:

I tried a smaller size shoe today than yesterday; my gym doesn't have half sizes. They were kinda hurting the arches of my feet- is that normal or were they just too small? My toes felt good, just the arches...

Does it hurt to wear your shoes? They're too small

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Wrr posted:

So I got a metolius contact hangboard and got it mounted at work which has me pleased as punch, but it feels so slippery. Even on the limited jug it has it doesn't feel like the limiting factor is my grip strength its the part where my hands slide off. Is there something I should be doing to increase the grippiness of it, like hit it with a little chalk or something?

Unless I'm sorely mistaken, chalk will have the opposite of the desired effect: it will fill in the spaces between the "grit" and make it more smooth, not less.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

LOL if you don't get dehydrated before climbing so your hands can't sweat.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Golluk posted:

Looking for any advice on picking out shoes for novice indoor climbing. A mix of bouldering and top rope. Or do I just get whatever is tightest fit without being painful? Going to MEC (Canada) later today to look.

I'm assuming they're your first shoe? Get a shoe that's tight but comfortable and not crazy expensive. The whole "get the tightest shoe" thing is not a great idea when you're a novice (and I've heard from different people that it's not a great idea in general)

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Sab669 posted:

Why's that? Sounds counter-intuitive.

My local gym just sells Evolv Nighthawk and... some other $80 pair of shoes that I can't recall the brand of. I figure once the Free Rentals expires at the end of this month I'm going to grab those. They do 20% off for Members so that's way cheaper than Amazon.

When you're just starting out footwork is WAY more important than how tight your shoe is. You don't want space between your foot and shoe, but you also don't want to get a shoe that is so tight that you don't want to wear it/it shortens your climbing sessions due to pain or discomfort. Your shoe should be tight, but so many people give the "find the tightest pair you can shove your foot into and then size down" kind of advice and that's not going to end well because you're going to hate climbing. IMO (and this is only my opinion) instead of framing it as "get as tight a shoe as possible without it hurting" we need to start saying "get as tight a shoe as possible that is still comfortable to wear". You can always buy a new, tighter pair after a year of climbing, but you can't buy a looser pair if you've stopped climbing because your feet hurt.

EDIT:

BlancoNino is more articulate and succinct than I am.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Golluk posted:

So something like this should be OK? Seems to have decent reviews.

https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5027-375/Tarantula-Rock-Shoes

Yep! those are some of the most popular "first" shoes!

But don't buy online, go into a store and try them on.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Sab669 posted:

Another dumb question; tore open my first good callous tonight. Do I just grit my teeth and rip off the loose skin, or...?

New climber, but not new to having blisters/callousues come off:

Are you at the gym/crag right now? Tape it up.

No? Either cut it with scissors or tear it off. It will eventually come off anyway. Make sure to use triple antibiotic ointment today since it's on your hand.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

enraged_camel posted:

According to the Climbing Wall Association, in 2017, on average, facilities have 100 new members/month

I wonder how many members they're netting each month.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

rest his guts posted:

I'm speaking about the gym experience in large American cities.

Sounds like you're speaking about the gym experience in Seattle...

I've been to multiple gyms in multiple large American cities (in fact two of the three largest) and I have never heard of a climbing gym having a sauna. I wasn't a gym goer before I started climbing, but I also don't think "regular commercial gyms" having a sauna is the norm or expected.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

rest his guts posted:

From what I understand, they're a normal thing at the big gyms in Utah, New York (BKB), LA (Sender One/The Hanger seem to be the biggest gyms, no?)

Definitely don't have a sauna at Sender One LAX, Hangar 18, or at any gyms I know of in Chicago. It sounds like someone wanted to sell you a sauna.

Slimy Hog fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Jul 19, 2019

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Sab669 posted:

The gym put up this V2 slab problem that took me probably about 10 tries to do, pretty much everyone has agreed it's a real bastard of a problem. It's given some people who have been climbing for years a run for their money :shrug:

I've been trying to downclimb as many problems as possible, but it's giving me some real trouble:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFSdsyweC00

Watching this, I think I need to utilize the lower footholds better but I'm not sure.

Looks like a really fun climb. That static balance-y part near the beginning is my jam.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

ShaneB posted:

Any suggestions for my second pair of shoes? I tried on and climbed in a pair of Vapor V's that fit pretty well but the heel was pretty farty due to being a bit loose, which surprised me, and I returned them. I have a fairly wide foot in general. Am I really having to balance downturned shoes for overhangy bouldery problems and a shoe good for vertical problems?

I tried vapor v's and thought the murias were a better fit. A bit pricey but fit my foot better including the heel.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

asur posted:

Aggressive shoes should not be comfortable to stand in and a half size down for any climbing shoe is probably too large nevermind an aggressive shoe.

Counterpoint: wear shoes that fit and don't hurt.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Ubiquitus posted:

Counterpoint: this is only good for a certain level of climbing, so you may as well condition yourself to wearing uncomfortable shoes if you can stomach it

That makes sense.

Personally I'd rather be comfy in my shoes and deal with discomfort later if need be. My current pair is pretty comfy but I need to take them off after ~45-60 mins.

I'm also climbing at max v4-5 and I'm not really chasing grades right now

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Back to climbing after being away for 1.5 months moving my life 1000 miles across the country. I'm super weak and my technique is kinda sloppy but I'm happy to be back in the gym.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

remote control carnivore posted:

Go outside you nerds

I both don't know anyone who climbs and have a bit of social anxiety so, although I would love to eventually get into outdoor sport, I don't see myself doing so any time soon.

Slimy Hog fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Oct 8, 2019

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

interrodactyl posted:

Sport climbing is for suckers like Adam Ondra. Go bouldering instead.

I do boulder! Mostly because I don't climb with anyone and the closest gym to me is bouldering only.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

spwrozek posted:

Put my membership on hold for the next two months. Just have not been able to get into climbing since the injury.

I'm considering doing this; I haven't been able to get into it after moving + a bunch of other stuff that has made me tired at the end of the day.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

I'm getting my first vaccine tomorrow and the second one soon after that. I'm super excited to get back to the gym after being away for 2 years; I'm fully expecting to be horrible once I get back

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

spwrozek posted:

Yeah dude. I am looking at restarting my membership June 1 as I will have been fully stabbed and cured by then. Excited to just be at the gym.

On top of it being safe, my company will start re-imbursing my gym membership too, so it will be _free_ for me to suck at climbing

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Sigmund Fraud posted:

You could
a) sand it lightly. It works but is not as good as those that get worn by normal use as that wears away the soft grain while leaving the hard year rings.
b) hang one arm on a deep pocket or the good sloper
c) use a sling or pulley. You can drill a small hole in the bottom of the bm and screw in an attachment point
d) use alcohol based chalk. It'll dry out the wood
e) no hang it with feet on something
f) try harder
g) front lever it a bit. It'll move your cog forward, making it easier. Bonus core work!

Rock Climbing: try harder

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Slimy Hog posted:

I'm getting my first vaccine tomorrow and the second one soon after that. I'm super excited to get back to the gym after being away for 2 years; I'm fully expecting to be horrible once I get back

Went to the gym on Friday and didn't suck as bad as I thought I would, but I'm super sore even two days later!

I'm looking to get back into it on a regular cadence and trying to convince my buddy to be my belay partner and start getting into roped climbing with an eventual goal of doing some climbing outside. He's having a baby soon so there may be a fatal flaw in this plan...

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Mezzanon posted:

I’ve been easing two friends into bouldering outside (because all the guns are closed) and it’s a slow and steady process. One trip down. One in a couple weeks.

I went on a hike with my family today and stumbled upon some people do a sport climb (living in Boulder rocks); it convinced me to finally try some outdoor stuff!

It sucks that my strength is non-existent due to not being in the gym for 2 years so it will be a bit before I'm confident enough to do anything outdoors.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Took an "intro to ropes" class by myself yesterday and was stoked to meet someone who:

1) was also taking this class by themselves
2) was super friendly
3) Boulders at the same level as me
4) had the same climbing goals as I do (doing outdoor sport by the end of summer)
5) Wants to climb a bunch to attain those goals

I have some social anxiety so it was super nice to meet a climbing partner with the same goals as me without too much effort.

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Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

It comes back pretty quick; I've been back 3 weeks and, although I'm not back to climbing as hard as I used to, I'm happy with my progress.

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