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oh hey cool there is a climbing thread. in tgo obviously, i'd looked in the fitness sub before lol. been indoor climbing 3-4 days a week since the beginning of last september, loving it. i go with my 2 little kids and brother plus a couple friends so we have a nice sized group right now. started mostly bouldering but i've been doing more routes lately as i want to get a lead certification to practice leading and go climbing outside in the spring/summer. any ontario climbers in here?
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Jan 26, 2023 18:28
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oh yeah the halton region stuff (rattlesnake, nemo, kelso) is basically my local crag, it's about 45 mins from me. have also been interested in going up to beaver valley and bruce peninsula and also down to niagara glen for day/weekend trips as well though, depending on how the summer shakes out
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Jan 26, 2023 18:46
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Augster posted:Got a late start to this project after I accidentally stabbed my thumb, but I was quickly able to put together 2 moves which is infinitely better than last year  this little guy here is laughing at you. mocking you. he thinks you cannot complete the proj. you must defeat him
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Feb 16, 2023 03:09
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we just visited The Hub in Mississauga, apparently Canadas largest indoor climbing gym. was a really awesome experience, the tallest wall was 46 feet, there were well over 100 routes set with great setting and an awesome variety of holds, styles, and difficulty levels. bouldering was alright, seemed a little like an afterthought, but the setting was still quite good. i was bouldering near the top of the grade range which, for being a newer (but passionate and active) climber, that says to me that bouldering isn't their focus. they do a tape colour for grade range and i was working orange tapes, the only grades above were red and black (and black was simply stated to be "V6+"  ). climbed for about 6 hours so we could really get a good sampling of everything and still didn't get on every route i wanted to haha. and i am absolutely wiped today. 5 star experience though and it was absolutely worth the 1 hour drive for us.sidenote, every other gym i've gone to has the grading feel "soft", so i'm starting to think actually that my home gym is just the hardest grader around lol
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Feb 20, 2023 17:04
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i'm dying to get outside and climb real rock as well but waiting for decent weather (also just about to do indoor lead training). i've hit maybe a plateau though? i was projecting a few 5.11- last month and now i'm back to feeling like 5.10+ is a struggle. really frustrating, i dunno what's up. i climb with my brother and he's still working 5.11- and 5.11 and i just feel so discouraged
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Mar 24, 2023 02:31
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interrodactyl posted:1. I highly doubt you've plateaued in the span of a month. you're right of course. i shouldn't be comparing myself to others. my brother has always been better than me at physical things and it's hard to mentally block out the competition in my head. we started at the same time and have been neck and neck in our progression so i guess i feel like i'm "losing". i do still have fun climbing, in fact i love climbing. i'm obsessed with it, and am excited to climb outside for the first time this year when the weather clears up. i'm always pushing my limit and trying climbs that i can't flash. i'm hoping i'm just having a bad few weeks, maybe it's just mental. thanks for the reassurance
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Mar 24, 2023 17:08
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i love the snow but it's pissing me off this year. it keeps almost being gone and then every time i plan to head out to the local crag to attempt my first outdoor climbing it snows again! ah such is the life of a climber i guess. i begin my first lead training lesson today, so that's only adding to the hype to climbing outside this year
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Mar 27, 2023 19:00
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KingColliwog posted:Spring is finally here for real yep! it's gonna be in the 20s all week so it's looking dry and warm. planning to go out with the crew and climb outside for the first time (for all of us) on friday during the day, using our new found lead skills. very excited.
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Apr 10, 2023 16:29
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my crew and i went outside for the first time a couple weeks ago and it went great! it was way too loving hot (30 degrees) but we found shelter in cracks/caves where still cold winter air was coming out. it was awesome. i normally climb in the high 5.10s and low 5.11s in the gym and was terrified leading my first 5.5 outside lol. i'm dying to get back outside but we just got an early window of nice weather, it's been rainy since then and at least another week of rain ahead  at some point this year i'd like to try a multipitch. there's not a ton near me (most of southern ontario is hilly with the odd jutting out of niagara escarpment, almost exclusively single pitch) but there is one 70 m 4 pitch slab that is bolted the whole way up i've been looking at. when we were climbing outside we set up quads on the anchors for the rest of our party for toproping on, so me and my brother (currently the only 2 leaders in our group) have experience setting and cleaning anchors in that way. i've read a few articles but figured i'd ask here as well: what additional gear and skills are required for sport multi-pitch that we may not have for sport single pitch?
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Apr 27, 2023 17:35
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yeah we only used the quad cause we had several top ropers, and even then it was partly an excuse to just use/learn that anchor for future uses (like sport multipitch). next time we're probably just gonna go with 2 locking draws. learning to rap is a big one, yeah. belaying from above i've read is pretty straightforward with a grigri - which is what we use - so i'm not worried there. the route we're looking at is at eagles nest up in bancroft. there's a fair bit of multipitch there, almost all trad (or mixed). just 1 sport route - Migizi Wazoson
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Apr 27, 2023 18:36
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Sigmund Fraud posted:Why use a quad for MP? i could ask the very same in return, i'm new to outdoor climbing and only have the wisdom of my teachers and what i've read on the internet. i assume you're testing my knowledge. but from what i know: for single pitch sport: draws are fine for TR because bolts are typically spaced to allow easy equalization and load sharing, without putting the carabiner at an unfavourable loading angle. my draws are rated for 22 kn each so this system is reasonably equalized, strong and redundant. lockers ensure the gates don't open if the draws are pulled against a rock in a weird way for multi pitch sport: a quad is a commonly recommended anchor because it is redundant, strong and easy to equalize even on weirdly spaced bolts. you can attach multiple climbers and haul bags directly to the anchor. it is easy to configure the length to make it comfortable to belay off of. most importantly me and my climbing partner have rehearsed it a lot and can tie and construct the anchor with our eyes closed. we use lockers on our quad as well, btw hot cocoa on the couch fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Apr 27, 2023 |
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Apr 27, 2023 19:19
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alnilam posted:I would think you'd still want a sling/cordelette anchor handy for anchors that are in a weird place or not at even height. this is actually a great question. i've also heard this common wisdom but i don't know why either.
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Apr 27, 2023 19:20
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anyone else use thecrag.com? i quite like it and it seems to have more thorough coverage of my local climbing scene. hard to gauge which is the "most popular" in my area. mountainproject seems to be missing a lot, both content and feature wise
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May 9, 2023 17:10
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spwrozek posted:Just climb. Eventually you will be as strong as the 12 year old girls at the gym. my 6 year old daughter (almost 7 to be fair) just sent her first 5.9. my gf then struggled to follow it up with the same route
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Jul 23, 2023 22:24
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spwrozek posted:I was making a joke you nerds. it wasn't funny because they routinely outclimb me
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Jul 24, 2023 18:47
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RabidWeasel posted:On a related note, my local gym is completely rammed most of the time and it gets really frustrating when someone is working a problem but spends 90% of their time standing next to it not actually climbing instead of stepping back and making space for others to have a go while they're catching their breath or whatever. It gets even worse when you get a big group just kind of loitering around watching the one guy projecting, I get that it's fun to hang out with your friends when climbing but don't fill up the entire available space right next to the wall, go stand somewhere else! my gym doesn't allow standing on the boulder mat unless you're headign to the boulder. works really well. that way everyone stands back and you only step on the mat to approach the boulder when you're ready to go
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Jul 25, 2023 17:34
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Sigmund Fraud posted:So what have been the most uncomfortable gut-churning experienced you've had climbing?  thankfully nothing like any of those (yet) since im just a babby climber. probably the only one so far is selecting a route for my partner to climb, seeing the sketchy belay position, and him reassuring me "yeah no way i'll fall, it's just a 5.8". then him getting to the crux, starting to have a minor panic since he's never fallen on lead outside yet, and me facing the prospect of being yanked up the wall into an overhanging roof to destroy my shins/knees on. thankfully he figured it out and topped it but whew the combination of his fear and mine made me sweat
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Aug 15, 2023 15:47
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to me, that would be using gear to stay on the wall. very edge case, and hell, it's the kind of thing where you're maybe sharing 5% of your effort with the gear. if i were to clip from a position where i were gripping the dog bone in my hand that way, such that i'd be unable to complete the clip otherwise, that send would get a asterisk in my mind. i've done it, and it makes me feel like i cheated, personally. i wouldn't begrudge or probably even notice if another climber did it. but i actively avoid relying on the gear in that way when climbing
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Aug 30, 2023 18:09
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alnilam posted:"do it if you have to but it's cheaty." this is my opinion basically i guess
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Aug 30, 2023 18:09
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alnilam posted:To clarify: the draws are not pre-placed - you have 100% legitimately done the moves to reach the bolt close enough to get a draw on it. And you do not advance via the dogbone, just stabilize with it while you get the rope in there. So no moves are skipped, you still do all of the moves on the route, you just maybe... get a brief slightly cheaty rest? yeah, that's french free or free climbing with just a hint of aid
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Aug 30, 2023 20:31
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Baddog posted:I'm really thinking just suck it up (and bribe a friend with carpentry skills to help me out). oh wow. those plans look almost exactly like what i'm looking for. im also planning on building a basement wall. i don't see anything particularly wrong with using straps for tensioning. we used to use loaded nylon webbing for safety structures all the time where i used to work (designing lifting & fall protection equipment). i don't see much difference here alternatively, just from pics, it looks like it would be trivial to replace the straps with a solid member anyway hot cocoa on the couch fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Oct 3, 2023 |
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Oct 3, 2023 20:02
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alnilam posted:The big news around here is some guy was arrested on his way to commit a mass shooting at the AAC's big smith rock event wtf......
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Oct 24, 2023 16:26
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alnilam posted:Sounds like he should climb at a warmer gym 
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Nov 13, 2023 22:28
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spwrozek posted:drat. Nice job.
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Dec 27, 2023 19:07
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yeah i always wear mine when belaying a leader in the arch or roof sections of our gym
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Jan 27, 2024 05:14
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i got out today and climbed on REAL ROCK in ontario on feb 10th!!! global warming ftw
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Feb 11, 2024 00:47
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this was rattlesnake up in halton region. almost totally dry, very little mud or water seeping from rock. and yeah, tshirts almost all day. really amazing
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Feb 11, 2024 00:57
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Sab669 posted:I've been wanting to make a trip up to Rattlesnake, it's basically like the only sport climbing near me [just over the border in NY, US] but idk it's hard to get anyone to agree to go hmu via pm if you're thinking about making a trip and i'll let you know if i can link up with you. extra+ bonus if you have gear. mount nemo and bottleglass are good and nearby too. the turtle rules but its hard to get in because of the reservation system. mount kelso is good ive heard too but mostly trad so i haven't been
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Feb 11, 2024 02:43
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Baddog posted:My kid made nationals in bouldering! Super psyched. Has a shot at ropes too this year, we'll see how that goes. hell yeah
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Feb 12, 2024 00:13
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why the hell won't my fingers get any stronger? ive been climbing for about 18 months now. in that time, my dead hang on a 20 mm edge basically hasnt improved. i remember testing at like ~3 or 4 months as a curiosity. i climb regularly 3 times a week. i started hangboarding about 6 months ago to try to improve finger strength as id noticed after testing again that my brother, who started around the same time as me and tested the same at that 3-4 month mark, had gotten waaaaay stronger in his hangs and also was climbing way harder grades than me, surpassed by a fair bit. i have another friend who started about a month before me, and same story. i hangboarded for about 2 months, saw basically no improvement, then stopped altogether for a surgery that took ~6 weeks to recover from. it was an axial lymph node excision so it understandably affected my overhead hang/pull my overhead pulling is basically back to normal (pull/chin ups as a benchmark), as is my overhead gripping/hanging. ive been climbing regularly again. now only 3 times a week, then hangboarding 3 times the next week (i alternate having my kids one week at a time with my ex and i climb on non-kid weeks, hangboard on weeks i have them). but... its basically back to normal, where normal is just not very good. i'm stuck at the 5.11-/5.11 range in my indoor gym, and have been for like almost a full year. really frustrating and disheartening, esp as the climbers who started around the same time as me surpass me easily (and even someone who we just introduced before my surgery seems to already be surpassing me...)
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Mar 15, 2024 23:25
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:what are you doing on the hangboard? you got vids of yourself climbing? interrodactyl posted:Tendons take a very long time to adapt. no vids of myself climbing until literally just yesterday when i climbed outside. my phone was too poo poo to take video for a long time. hangboard routine is - 3x10 7/3 repeaters at 65% of my max in 2 hand positions, open hand and crimp. i do a set of 10 open hand 7/3s, rest a minute, then a set of 10 crimp 7/3s, then rest ~3 minutes. i do this on tuesdays and sundays - 5x2 7/3s at 90% of my max in 2 hand positions, with the same modality as above. i do this on thursday. my max is ~180, and my body weight is around 170 right now fed and clothed. so my heavy days on thursdays are basically body weight. and i struggle with those. feels really pathetic to struggle at body weight 7/3s on 20 mm as my peers basically warm up with that KingColliwog posted:It sure is frustrating. My finger strength is really low for my climbing experience/level and I have a lot of trouble improving it too. Especially on a hangboard (I do feel stronger when climbing though, not sure if it's just technique or if I can't really use my strength on the hangboard somehow) im about the same height and weight, and simultaneously doing a strength training routine this year. i agree with the mentality of "who cares, just try your best and have fun, and don't compare to others", but it's really hard for me in practice. ultimately i just want to improve, i don't necessarily need to match my peers. but being plateued so early for so long is so frustrating Ubiquitus posted:Do you Boulder? It’s really unlikely finger strength is the limiting factor for you, it’s most likely a lack of technique. i was bouldering until my schedule forced me to curb my gym time. now i try to exclusively lead climb in the gym, as my focus and intent is to improve outdoor sport climbing. my bouldering was fine, i just don't really like it as much as sport. it would be really distressing to learn that after 18 months not only am i still weak but i also suck lmao my brothers friend is the head routesetter at our gym and he's told me the #1 easiest way for me to improve right now is my finger strength, so that's why ive chosen to focus on that. i otherwise maximize my goal specificity spending all my gym time leading
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Mar 17, 2024 21:20
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yeah sorry i generally fail due to pump/pump management. which is why ive chosen that protocol. misusing the word "strength". ive alternated between peak strength protocols and endurance protocols and feel like i basically never improve e: i guess my problem is that it feels like i can't make any objective improvement to my finger characteristics which is obviously one of the most important physical attributes associated with strong climbing hot cocoa on the couch fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Mar 17, 2024 |
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Mar 17, 2024 21:58
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i climb 3 times every other week in the gym, then hangboard on the other weeks. im not hangboarding on weeks that i climb. week 1 - climb tues, thurs, sun week 2 - hangboard tues, thurs, sun (no climbing) hot cocoa on the couch fucked around with this message at 13:18 on Mar 21, 2024 |
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Mar 21, 2024 13:14
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asur posted:I think you'd benefit more from climbing on the days you hangboard and not skipping weeks if that's an option. i agree, but it's not an option, as i mentioned, which is why i hangboard. i'd rather not hangboard at all
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Mar 21, 2024 15:32
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| # ¿ May 7, 2024 16:03 |
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any multipitch enjoyers prefer to self lower or rap on a grigri instead of an atc?
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Apr 3, 2024 19:57
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