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Baddog
May 12, 2001
Oh poo poo, climbing thread! Opinion on home exercises past hangboard and pullups? I've been eyeballing some pinch blocks. Not sure need much more than the 20 dollar ones off Amazon ... I mean, it's a sanded piece of wood with a pin through it.

(I'm afraid I'm not the climber, my kid is crushing comps tho. I'm the guy who scouts, drives, schleps gear up the approach and belays).

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Baddog
May 12, 2001

Ubiquitus posted:

How old is your kid, how long has climbing been happening, is coaching being received from an on-site coach?

11, and for six or seven years now. In preschool he climbed up a full sized basketball hoop (along with everything else he could get on top of), and I figured I should get him into a gym and learn how to fall, from someone who was good at it.

Yep, he's on a serious team. I know, I know, I should ask his coaches. They are gonna say take him climbing more, hah! Kids climb to get on top of poo poo, not to do endless reps. I think there is some hesitation there as well cus they don't want parents going overboard. But he does want to compete with the very best, and getting/doing new stuff is always fun. Gotta mix it up.

Pinching 45s is prolly a bit much tho for now, hah. drat, are you actually pinch gripping the rims? I can't do mine without curling fingers around the lip.

Baddog
May 12, 2001

M. Night Skymall posted:

they have a tension board in their garage

Ahh man, don't tell me this. I've been considering getting a board for him and parking the truck in the street, but my wife is not buying in, hah! Boulder canyon is right there, we just need to get out more. Easier said than done.

edit, goddamnit, I come in here asking about $20 pinch grips and now I'm eyeballing kilter and moon and tension boards. lol!

Baddog fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Feb 21, 2023

Baddog
May 12, 2001

Ubiquitus posted:

Seriously just let him climb more. Moon boards can be had for pretty cheap!

Or like a bouldering pad or rope/gear could be good things, if he has friends that can go with him.

If you really want to switch it up maybe gymnastics? Getting kids exposure to different sports usually has many benefits.

That mini moon looks pretty decent? The standard is just over 10 feet at 40 degrees, so drat, don't think it would fit.

I guess if you're building your own wall, you can put it at just a few more degrees to make it work...

Baddog
May 12, 2001
Went up to the popular winter spot above golden today.

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105744702/brown-cloud-rocks

South facing cliffs, so if there is any sun at all, it's a nice day. Plenty of people up there today. So many routes, the difficulty is in figuring out what you're on.

That's the coors plant (I dunno if I'd call it a brewery) in the foreground, think there is a creek running through there somewhere, pure rocky mountain spring water :)

Baddog
May 12, 2001
It's loving snowing in Moab!

Baddog
May 12, 2001

Baddog posted:

It's loving snowing in Moab!

When my kid started the route it was still clear and actually the warmest it had been in awhile, by the time he got to the top it was snowing really hard and windy/cold as *hell*. Glad to get this one in.


https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105945424/skeletonic

Next day was awesome though. That's the big bend bouldering area down there.



His first real multipitch up there.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107509741/terma

Baddog
May 12, 2001

Endjinneer posted:

Weird how three pursuits use the same word.

lot of sports use it I believe. poker definitely.

I had to google into it a bit just now, apparently it comes from way back when "ruffians" would sneak up on someone and use a bag (sock?) filled with sand to knock someone out and rob them. Were some rocks mixed in with that sand??

Sandbagging => robbing someone => later the connotation of acting weak to rob/steal/cheat, maybe from cards/gambling. And now climbing has just the acting weak piece.

Baddog
May 12, 2001
That's awesome Huxley. I agree with rentals, for the first couple sessions at least!

Fyi, for anyone just getting into the sport, you do NOT want a shoe that is too aggressive/tight/bind-y. A bit comfortable and flat is ok to start (although that is gonna be relative). Everyone at my kids climbing gym went through La Sportiva Maverinks like crazy, but it seems like they don't make them anymore, bah. I dunno about these Tarantula Jrs, but the Aragon gets a thumbs up now for more relaxed/casual stuff. Still a bit expensive, maybe a second shoe (or a candidate for your first).

I wouldn't buy anything on amazon just yet, you gotta try these on, cus the sizing is a bit unpredictable. Depends if you want to wear socks or not too. You're gonna want her to be *psyched* about this purchase, not "gently caress I hate wearing these shoes".

Baddog
May 12, 2001

Sab669 posted:

Has anyone hired a Guide service before? How was it?

I'll be down in the 'Gunks visiting a friend next weekend, reached out to some company that specializes in teaching indoor gumbies like me the basics of outdoor climbing; tying anchors, rappelling, self rescue, all kinds of other stuff on their site too. But they were like "If you're only in town for a day, just climb with us, we'll lead and you can clean and ask questions and just have a good day climbing"... so, I'm very down with that. Should be a great time. No idea what grade/routes they'll take me on, probably TBD once they size me up in person.


I've always had a good experience hiring guides, done it 3 or 4 times now to help my kid out, while checking out a new area. Figure just be 100% open with what you don't know or are uncomfortable with, and what your goal is. Climbing insurance isn't cheap for these companies though! I don't think the guides themselves are making much money at all after insurance and the company's cut is taken out, so I try to give them what is hopefully a decent tip.

Baddog
May 12, 2001
Man, so weird, was just having a conversation with a guy in the gym who had bought a Grigri+ and we were laughing about "how is this ever gonna be worthwhile, if you panic don't you just let go of the lever?"

I guess not!

Baddog
May 12, 2001
Grigri+ has "anti-panic handle: if the user pulls too hard on the handle, the anti-panic function brakes and stops the descent automatically."

It also has a switch between top rope and lead belay "modes", but I'm not quite sure what that does!

Baddog
May 12, 2001
I like seeing pictures of areas, hopefully you all will tolerate me posting a few. Finally stopped raining here, I dunno if I've ever seen colorado looking this green!



Unfortunately I thought "lets find that quarry area on table mountain" would be fun, instead of going somewhere with nice things to look at while climbing. My kid called this the chossiest pile of poo poo he's ever been on, way worse than golden cliffs on the other side. And got revenge on me by dropping all sorts of crap onto my head.



He led this one https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106405991/moon-scape and said someone must have broken off the footholds, that it was way harder than rated. That maybe the dude who said it was a 9 ripped absolutely everything off on the way up.

At least we didn't get bitten by a rattlesnake, a kid did in this area just recently. Did see a huge rear end bull snake though.

Baddog
May 12, 2001

Slimy Hog posted:

Did y'all climb mostly sport? I've been meaning to check that area out for some trad, but it sounds like we should skip it.

Just sport, yep. Can't speak to the trad there at all, but it really did seem very flaky/"friable".

I guess the + was that on a nice day we had that whole area to ourselves. hah. And it was shaded in the afternoon.

quote:

And since you like crag photos, here's a picture of the voo I took yesterday

Nice! We need to get up there.

Baddog
May 12, 2001
I thought Red Rock Canyon was decent, and if you're staying in colorado springs it is right there.

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105744457/red-rock-canyon-open-space

Garden of the Gods is kinda fun for the novelty and surroundings, you should at least visit it even if you don't want to bother climbing and having people ogle you. Parking can be a bitch if you're going on the weekends. But Red Rock canyon seemed to have zero tourist traffic, just locals taking a walk or climbing.

This is what red rock canyon looks like. I *think* this was from a lower down section, not on "the whale".

Baddog
May 12, 2001
Nationals training camp at spot Louisville next week, they've got ~10 routes set for it.

Baddog
May 12, 2001
OK, some better rock yesterday, up boulder canyon.

Animation and unfamiliar strangers in animal world. Got around to exploring what I thought was most of the area instead of just hanging out in lower. Ton of climbs. And then got home and realized the zoo was even *farther* along. There was a line for animation and baby dog, but hardly anyone past that.


https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105749785/animation
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105762684/unfamiliar-strangers

Better views of the crag across the canyon, black widow. Someone is halfway up.


And parts of avalon I believe. The creek looked way too high to be messing around with fording it, someday I gotta sack up and figure out the tyrols.

Baddog
May 12, 2001
along those lines, gotta ask you all if this is just out of line or what.

My kid usually just does hard practices at their team gym, but that's just a bouldering gym, so I took him and a friend to the local. After they worked through the top ropes, they decided to "cool down" by playing "boulder golf". Which apparently entails doing all the easier routes, but in as few moves as possible. I'm sure they picked it up at their practices, and definitely seems like a good competitive workout to develop dyno skills. But after watching them for a bit, I was like uhhhh, I think you all are kinda coming off like little assholes by blasting through someone's project in 3 moves right in front of them, and then on to the next. Yes/no? Try to keep them to stuff at their actual level, and go do a pull up competition or something if they want to bro it out? As the dad, I'm just psyched to see them crushing poo poo and working hard while having fun. But a lot of folks seem to be trending more towards the 'gently caress those kids' side of the jokes. It is a bit of a weird thing in climbing that weighing 60 pounds can trump a lot of experience.

And hey, most of these kids will go for *days* off of getting a fist bump from someone at the gym who isn't their parent or coach. Just keeping him focused on individual progress, and being positive about how good he is actually doing after getting crushed in a competition by those national champs can be difficult. It's not a sport with a ton of crowds and support!

Baddog
May 12, 2001

knox_harrington posted:

just to spam the thread with my holiday snaps a bit more, this is me on the Besso.


That's loving awesome.

Baddog
May 12, 2001
Was at a climb today with permadraws, and the kids said the fourth draw had duct tape wrapped around it. They were kinda sketched out about it, didn't want to take hard falls on it. But seems like it might have been there to serve the same kinda purpose as the keeper on a quick draw, to keep the carabiner from rotating?


Edit, I know a lot of Colorado climbers here, so it was sonic youth in clear creek.
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105749158/sonic-youth

Baddog fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Sep 11, 2023

Baddog
May 12, 2001
Eyeballing a wall for the garage again. Kilter gave me a pretty eyewatering quote for a 10x12. I guess they only partner with lemur, whose frames are indeed awesome, industrial heavy duty and will last forever, but goddamn. Think the 10x12 gets into gym territory and I got gym pricing, but still. 55K for everything, lol. Haven't talked out the 10x10 fully, but sounds like it would still be around 20k (+ pads).

Anyone have plans for an adjustable 10x10, mayyyybe a 10x12 diy frame, that has worked for them?

Pads are a whole nother thing, we have a ton of crash pads. But would be nice to get some real thick stuff, not a haphazard mess of crash pads. This site actually seems pretty decent https://www.thefoamfactory.com/blog/index.php/climb-higher-with-confidence-using-bouldering-crash-pads , but still seems like have to piece together 4 or 6 sheets.

Baddog
May 12, 2001

Xyven posted:

We haven't gotten any quotes, but public pricing for adjustable walls is painful.


I'm really thinking just suck it up (and bribe a friend with carpentry skills to help me out).

These pads look semi-reasonable, instead of cutting and gluing together your own layers like the foam factory.
https://www.ucsspirit.com/products/climbing-bouldering/climbing-bouldering-accessories/222-series-fat-pads-non-folding. I haven't asked what the shipping is going to be though!


Kilter said they now only partner with lemur because in the past they had so many issues with missing pieces/incorrectly drilled holes. I dug into it online and it seems like the old, much cheaper but apparently meh option was onsite. Completely different design, just bolting into the wall and the top supported by a cable or 2.

These diy plans seem popular, still looking around for something else though - https://www.etsy.com/ClimberDad/listing/1326857382/1-day-build-climbing-wall-self Not in love with just depending on the straps to hold the thing up, although completely freestanding and semi-mobile is pretty cool.

Something like the onsite with the kicker bolted into the wall and two winches holding the top *seems* pretty simple. Maybe add some more backup lines, and gotta make sure the bottom of the wall is well secured to the kicker! But I'd like to see some plans from someone who did it.

Baddog
May 12, 2001

hot cocoa on the couch posted:

oh wow. those plans look almost exactly like what i'm looking for. im also planning on building a basement wall.

i don't see anything particularly wrong with using straps for tensioning. we used to use loaded nylon webbing for safety structures all the time where i used to work (designing lifting & fall protection equipment). i don't see much difference here

alternatively, just from pics, it looks like it would be trivial to replace the straps with a solid member anyway

I guess if you still want it adjustable with some solid supports along the floor, could drill holes at the angles you want and put a locking pin through. Use the straps to ease it down.


Sigmund Fraud posted:

Why not just a Moon board? It's way cheaper but perhaps not as sexy. Add a chain winch to make it adjustable. You can use the OG 2016 holds if you feel strong otherwise another layout. You don't NEED the fancy lights or app integration.

They've got a how-to guide online.

This one page thing is kinda sparse! https://www.moonboard.com/Content/Information/How-to-build-a-MoonBoard.pdf

Baddog
May 12, 2001

Slow News Day posted:

Planning a trip to the Denver area in early November (weather permitting) and it’s one of the places I’m considering. The other is Eldorado Canyon.

Sport only this time around. Lost my trad rack and can’t replace it for a while.

sport only and eldo?

Baddog
May 12, 2001

Baddog posted:


Kilter said they now only partner with lemur because in the past they had so many issues with missing pieces/incorrectly drilled holes. I dug into it online and it seems like the old, much cheaper but apparently meh option was onsite. Completely different design, just bolting into the wall and the top supported by a cable or 2.


Onsite quote was 2800 for the 10x10 frame with just chains (another 800 for an electric winch setup). And THEN 2200 for shipping. I know its coming from canada, but drat. So 5K for a pretty bare bones setup. Almost 6K with the nice electric.

Lumber prices have come down, right?

Baddog
May 12, 2001

Sab669 posted:

I've been climbing like absolute rear end at the gym lately and it's making me real sad :(

I think I should see a doctor, I've developed this weird bump on the knuckle of my index finger and have slightly limited ROM in it. Zero pain, don't think that's a contributing factor for my poor climbing but it just generally makes me go "Hmmm" every time I think about it. But I don't want to take time off climbing for whatever it is :(

Bone spur? No pain at all though huh.

Baddog
May 12, 2001

Xyven posted:

We ended up going with Revival Climbing for an 8'x12' 45⁰ fixed angle wall, ended up costing around 8k for the frame and shipping. Now I just need to wait two months for it to get here.

Nice, that's a good looking wall!

Baddog
May 12, 2001

Slow News Day posted:


Well, I'm trying to decide based on which areas I have guidebooks for: Eldo, Devil's Head, and a bunch of stuff in the Golden area (North Table, Morrison, Lookout, Golden Gate).


My understanding is that eldo is almost all trad, and even the bolted routes really need some protection placed. If I'm wrong someone let me know, cus we'll go check 'em out too!

Clear creek and boulder canyon have an insane amount of really good sport routes though.

Baddog
May 12, 2001

“I’m going to climb 20 mountains this season, ski down 8 of them, and think of you exactly once,” he wrote. “Only to thank god that I’ve found a better belayer than you ever were.”

Baddog
May 12, 2001
That looks awesome man!

I'm foolishly heading down the path of building our own, I think the kilter holds are gonna get here way before we get the board made though.

Are those 2x6s on the framing? Feels way solid even with just 3 cross pieces? I've seen some where people just go nuts with bracing, but this seems pretty minimal.

If you get a sec, can I get a picture of the hinge?

Baddog
May 12, 2001
graveyard in clear creak was pretty drat nice today!



https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114158750/hellbender

Baddog
May 12, 2001

Xyven posted:

Hinge pics:



Thanks!

There seems to be some debate that the correct/safer way to mount the hinges is on the face of the wall, to reduce the forces pulling them out.

Of course that is harder to make to look clean though, you don't want a hinge plate on your climbing surface.

Baddog
May 12, 2001
I wear mine cus I'm old and my neck hurts after belaying one route, indoors or outdoors, overhung or not.

A dude pointed me to those little mirrors they have hanging 50 feet up, and I'm like goddamn man, I may *look* like I'm 20 and have perfect eyesight....

Anyways slow news day, I found these for you, but they are drat expensive. My neck doesn't hurt that bad! Supposedly you can wear these over glasses though? That's cool.

https://pitchsix.com/products/belay-glasses-eyesend-adjustable-view

Baddog fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Jan 27, 2024

Baddog
May 12, 2001
My kid made nationals in bouldering! Super psyched. Has a shot at ropes too this year, we'll see how that goes.

Baddog
May 12, 2001

Endjinneer posted:

broken/parents/broken&parents


lol

:(

Boulder has the BCC https://www.boulderclimbers.org/ which is a pretty good way to meet up with people by volunteering and whatnot.

Baddog
May 12, 2001

RabidWeasel posted:

.... started in their teens

Nice.

At this point I just want to be able to make the approaches. Tagging along with another family this spring break so my kid can climb with theirs, and the first one they want to do is a 3 mile class 3 scramble. Fuuuuuuck. Thoughts and prayers for my reconstructed knee.

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Baddog
May 12, 2001


Trip out to Mt Lemmon for spring break.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106743587/demolition-derby

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