The one saving grace is that Ace found a factory rollup cargo cover for his XJ in good condition in the back of one of the XJs at the yard. Those aren't common, finding them intact is even less common, and they only charged $11 for it.

Veeb0rg posted:

I've got one in my dining room, its a nice grey one. I've not tried to put it back on since i put the 31 spare in though. I found mine at the junkyard too, I didn't know they were all that rare..

kastein posted:

I'm still on the hunt for a good motor... nothing yet. Tempted to say wait till Sams reduces their price to the winter $100/engine rate, then we pull one with a 30 day warranty for $30-50 extra and slap it in, thrash the poo poo out of it and it'll either last forever or pop before 30 days is up.

I'm not sure why that motor ended up being a POS. I almost suspect it had motor honey in it when my buddy bought the jeep because I heard it run before he parted the jeep, it sounded great. Sounded great when we put it in. Shortly after that we changed the oil and the knocks appeared basically right after that...


Here's some pics of my ghetto fabulous exhaust disassembly flange on the 98 toilet XJ:




Put these in because some wheeling resulted in my catalytic converter vomiting chunks of ceramic matrix into the muffler, which reduced my topend power... significantly

Sawzalled the pipe in half between the muffler and cat, dumped all the busted poo poo out, welded the flanges on and bolted it back together. Works great again, will continue to do so till the cat barfs up enough core that it goes below acceptable efficiency and throws a P0420. And best of all I copied the factory 4 bolt flange pattern that's used on 87-95 jeep exhausts, so I can use the standard gasket that's like 3 bucks from every parts store in the country, or in a pinch just pull the cat completely out and bolt the muffler to the flange upstream of the cat instead.

kastein posted:

If you think it's the noise that's happening on every cylinder you need your ears checked, or should listen to the noise that ISN'T happening every cylinder. That's the one I'm worried about, the whole drat point is that one or two cylinders sound different from the rest. I know a diesel is louder than a gas engine drat it, I just wasn't sure if they typically had a sort of lopey rattle or if the cylinders should all rattle the same way.

It definitely has rod knock on #5 or #6, I heard it very clearly when I started it up this morning to back it into its parking spot. It was much easier to hear with the trans tunnel access plate removed. Either that or it's a really leaky head gasket (again) but I don't think so. If it goes away when I do the HG I'll know for sure.

Oh well, I was afraid that it had rod knock a year ago. This isn't all that disappointing.

PS: that means UF and I were right, and agreed on something. A first to be sure.

Ace uploaded the video of it driving for the first time in... a year? a year and a half? two years? I forget.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJ-7U12bQ8M

It's still spraying large quantities of oil from between the two cylinder heads (two 3-cyl heads on an inline engine... else the head would just be too drat heavy to lift, they weigh 100+ each as it is) so clearly it needs some work. I'm going to pull the heads soonish and get them magnafluxed, resurfaced, maybe a valve job, then slap them back on with the good revision head gaskets this time around.

kastein posted:

Also found out why my trailer wiring doesn't work, the two relay sockets for the factory harness adapter had dropped down inside the rear quarter panel. You know, the one with the giant rust hole at the lowest point, that's constantly full of nasty mud and salty slush. It was all I could do to pry the relays out of the sockets and several of the terminals in the sockets simply turned to dust and fell out when I did. Guess it's a good thing I have a factory wiring harness diagram here, I'll have to head home to get my spare relays and sockets however. Haven't taken pictures of that part yet, will probably edit this post with a few if I bother to take any.

Opensourcepirate posted:

I'm not sure if you're talking about the actual way it's wired together or just how the bulbs were flashing, but I've seen turn signals flash brake lights when the ground to the turn signals goes bad.

kastein posted:

I dont have anything yet. Need to get a bunch of stuff... but probably just check it out and make sure it works first. It weighs probably 300lbs, I decided to unload it from my friend's pickup into the trailer I brought myself and it went better than expected. I don't know how to tig weld... yet.

So yesterday I went to the junkyard and got a RARE part to put on the XJ.

Super, super rare. Becausee the plastic hose barbs break off them the second they leave the factory. I rarely see them intact. Cherokee owners are now chuckling...

What I am saying is that I got a replacement rear wiper motor bezel with its washer fluid passthrough barbs intact. There were four donors at the yard, half were already broken and I broke another trying to take the hose off it very gently. Got lucky on the last one though.

Also, I replaced my drivers door dome light plunger switch, which had developed a severe case of lucasitis. It went from having two settings (on, off) to three (off, flicker, dim) to four (off, flicker, dim, dim flicker) and then stopped working entirely. Quite nice to have working lights again.

No major work, just more incremental repairs to the boring DD.

Today I need to get ahold of a buddy in CT and find out if he still has a motor for sandbagger.

Beach Bum posted:

You gonna dip the barbs in epoxy to get some strength? I did that to my Miata dipstick, gave it four treatments and it simply refuses to break, unlike the stock part that snaps if you brake hard.

kastein posted:

I already installed it, so probably not. I kept the old one, if the new one breaks I will through-bore the old one and press in a small piece of stainless tubing from a hobby shop.

Beach Bum posted:

Kinda sorta. You need something thin enough to brush on in an even coating to avoid drips, and you just apply 5 or so coats depending on how thick you get it on there. With the little plastic nipples on those pumps, you could shove a pop rivet in the hole backwards to both seal it and give you something to grab on to with a pair of pliers once the epoxy has set.

kastein posted:

e: NINE WAREHOUSES ROCKAUTO, HOLY SHITFUCK, WHAT THE HELL

West SAAB Story posted:

There is now a button that lets you find compatible parts from the least number of warehouses. Of course, that usually means you end up with expensive stuff that doesn't need to be - and completely cheap poo poo that shouldn't be.

EightBit posted:

That's almost as bad as quadratec having lots of their stuff not even in their own warehouse. $2200 lift kit, lol no tracking number 'cause they sent the order to Currie directly (which I would have done but quadratec was $90 cheaper), hope you can work from home for a week or your clearly labelled expensive poo poo will be sitting on your front porch. The same thing happened with the SYE kit, I'm definitely being more wary of that poo poo from now on.

EightBit posted:

Ha, I'm legally a contractor so I'm sure that would go over well. Not to mention having to take it up eleven stories, sit on it all day in a cramped cubicle, then take it back down and carry it four city blocks because I can't park near my downtown office building.

kastein posted:

Let me get right on that. *drives 70 miles to work then walks home*

Anyone see anything missing on that swap parts list? Informed and uninformed ideas welcome, I really don't want to miss anything.

cursedshitbox posted:

I ordered a set. but in all british fashion I got double jointed elbows and 5 wobbly fingers.

kastein posted:

Then I threw the transmission tunnel blockoff plate back on, bolted it down (now I can't see the road while driving!) and threw the center console back in as well as the shift boots. It almost looks factory now, I just can't get the gear pattern legend cap to go into the shifter knob, it's too stiff. It will probably go in nicely after I give it a few seconds with the hot air gun but since it's half past midnight and I have an hour drive home I'm gonna leave that adventure for another day.

kastein posted:

Well it is technically tomorrow. By the time I was done picking up tools and washing the floor in the shop, it was drat near done uploading, so I just waited.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f3lDAUoIpCA

Gets real boring at 11:30, until 16:30 or so, then long periods of boring off-camera cursing and banging/dropped tools with a few interesting things in between

"Tire balancing beads" (walmart had no airsoft BBs due to political correctness. So I bought these because gently caress it, why not try it?)


My tires required 180 grams of elephants, seals, lions, whales, hearts, fish, and giraffes to balance correctly.


Good thing we have an accurate scale at work.

kastein posted:

It's actually just like regular tire self-balancing beads, they just happen to be somewhat decorative. You dump them in the tire and they do their thing. There are charts available that tell you how much to use, I converted it from ounces to grams and rounded up to the next ten gram increment. It actually doesn't really matter as long as you have more than enough and not ridiculously more than needed.

kastein posted:

New headlight is on the Justy and I got a spare alternator for it, too.

Did a lot of research and it turns out there are two failure points on this motor. They are right next to each other. The oil pump cover plate loves to crack or the oring fails. Your oil pressure drops to zero and the engine dies. Or the pump impeller cants sideways in its bore and eats into the back of the cover, then the oil pressure drops and people run em for a long time without realizing because the dummy light only comes on at 3-5psi and no one has any mechanical sympathy.

Why does the pump impeller go sideways? Because instead of a bearing or bushing, it spins in a straight 12.47mm hole in the cast aluminum timing cover, which is 489 dollars new from the dealer. And the new one will fail the same way.

Fortunately I know half a dozen people with cnc mills, bridgeports, lathes, etc and one just bought his, so he is itching to try complex machining out. Ehehehehehe well I have just the project for him... I estimate it should be possible in a few hours of machiningpounding beers while we watch the mill do its thing and should only require one refixturing if he has 5ax, or several if 3ax. None of the angles other than the usual 3 planes are critical for fitment as the angled holes are all water/oil passages, so refixturing for those should be easy if it has to be done.

It will require a 14x8x2.5 blank if machined from billet instead of cast though so it looks like installing a bushing in a stock one comes first because the next size that will fit is like 370 bucks worth of 6061, which would be enough to make two covers, though I only need one. Here's the thread I found on doing that: http://subarujusty.proboards.com/thread/2201

Raluek posted:

Oh come on. I'm an EE nerdlinger too; not everything has to be high tech. Dual 4-barrel Holleys have their own attraction. Side dump exhaust, bugcatcher.

Galler posted:

Seems like a potential roadkill episode. Show up at kastein's place with a case of beer and build a jeep out of spare parts before hitting the trails.

Sandbagger SA posted:

I'm already imagining a frame for that shelf made of steel rectangular tubing.

Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:

I know this is an ancient post, but...


NGK is the OEM for most AC Delco plugs.

kastein posted:

It got hosed by loving Photobucket, but you can get it working again with extensions and poo poo I think.

WHICH WAY MADNESS posted:

I know you're into older Jeeps, this one is pretty rare. I'd never heard of a Kamanchi, must have been a one-off.

kastein posted:

The problem is, it's standardized but it's so widely known to be standardized that everyone in the industry only publishes the info they need to know what to buy, and I have all the other info because I don't know what matters, so for example it took me several hours to figure out that this flywheel is for a standard "14 inch" (not kidding) clutch, even though I had the exact info on the pressure plate bolt pattern. And several more hours to figure out that the standard input shaft pilot tips are 25mm and 30mm, and there are only two pilot bearings and they each fit one of those to a 62mm bore in the flywheel.

There are also pull and push clutches (same as there are on cars, pull clutches are dumb imo but enable you to install a clutch brake, which is really nice to have with an unsynchronized first gear) and don't even get me started on input shaft splines. At least they only use a couple instead of a million types like cars. Oh, and different bellhousings for push and pull clutches with above and below centerline linkages. I need to check what I have now that I think about it...

I can't wait to spend 500 to 1300 on a clutch kit

kastein posted:

They're *high tension* wires, thanks much.

Applebees Appetizer posted:

God I hate tire shops with a passion. I swear if I had the space i would buy a used tire machine and balancer just so I didn't have to deal with those idiots.

kastein posted:

... And can you imagine how angry 99% of military truck owners would be about an EV military truck swap based on *Prius* parts and involving removing the multifuel diesel? They'd have a drat coronary.

kastein posted:

I have nothing against a series hybrid, that's not a bad idea. Though it would eat your battery weight budget because those aren't light motors.

Dagen H posted:

Dissenting opinion: I'm an hour away from Jeg's and 1.5 from Summit, I just shop the stores

kastein posted:

The factory FSJ setup (at least on my 79) appears to be two small copper pipes sticking out of the seal at the back edge of the windshield, aimed roughly at the glass. I saw that and was like aw hell no, we are ripping that out and doing it right.