|
cobalt impurity posted:Oh god why did I just buy a bottle of 54th Massachusetts I'm too broke to be buying any ink right now and why would I even need a bulletproof blue-black oh jesus. You never know when you'll need a good blue-black. I usually try to keep at least one pen inked with one. I don't suppose you have a handy comparison between that and Legal Lapis/Legal Blue/Contract? I've been told that LB is just Art Browns (NYC store)'s version of Legal Lapis, but the box I got from there was marked Contract. Also, I think that Noodler's Red-Black is pretty nice. The bottle I got a few years ago dries to a nice brown-ish color; it's very subdued, and semi-bulletproof, which is a nice bonus. Bulletproof inks seem pointless until you knock over a cup of coffee or whatever onto something fairly important.
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2013 04:29
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 19:31 |
|
|
lucifer chikken posted:I have a question I've been holding on to because I'm not sure it truly belongs here. I've been writing letters using Noodler's Purple Martin, but realize now that it isn't at ALL waterproof. Are there any methods for adding a bit of protection to written or drawn pages (like a spray fixative or something similar) after the fact? I keep a candle handy, but I imagine that's only really practical for small things, like addresses on envelopes, rather than a whole sheet. I've also heard hairspray works, but I've never tried it.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 4, 2013 01:26
|
|
|
 The reason I changed color mid-way is because I got tired of that Diplomat being a pain in the rear end. It seems air isn't getting into the converter, so it just sorta peters out. Also I had to use tinypic because imgur seems to hate me.  Also, iPhone autofocus is a bitch.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 6, 2013 20:36
|
|
|
|
|
#
¿
Feb 7, 2013 22:13
|
|
|
Mercury Hat posted:I just got in my order of a Pilot Metro and some Hero 329s and I'm really enjoying them. My main concern is inks, though. I got the Heroes with the intention of using them at work, but I work in a vet office so any ink has to absolutely be waterproof. I have the Noodler's bulletproof black ink, but was hoping I could get something waterproof in any color. Is my only choice the Noodler Blue-black? I'm not limited in what colors I can use at work, I just have to be able to read my notes after they inevitably get soaked. Quite a few Noodler's inks are bulletproof. (http://noodlersink.com/noodlers-durable-ink-classification/) I like the red-black and the legal blues (Legal Blue, Legal Lapis, &c.), but apparently lots of their colors are waterproof.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 15, 2013 03:59
|
|
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:What's your favorite low-feathering ink? My signing pen is a big fat stub nib that uses lots of smeary ink, and my working/purse pen is a ringtop Waterman 52 1/2V. Both of them get used to write on a lot of papers that were designed for ballpoints. I need an ink that dries the second it's put on the paper, without, of course, drying in the nib. Does this miracle fluid exist? I've already tried Private Reserve Fast Dry with no joy. If you haven't, I'd try some J. Herbin inks. In addition to being lovely (and very much not water-proof), they dry pretty drat fast for me. However, I don't have any particularly wide nibs, so they might not be quite so useful. Then again, if by "papers designed for ballpoints" you mean thermal papers, like the ones typically used for receipts, I think you might just be flat out of luck. But if you mean cheap copy paper or cheap notepads, I'd definitely try J. Herbin's stuff — it dries way faster for me than anything else I've tried.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 15, 2013 20:43
|
|
|
Otaku Alpha Male posted:Does anyone know an affordable set of inks that work in a fountain pen? For the most part, I'm planning to be using them in brush pens, but I figured that if they work in a pen, they will work in a brush pen, too. I know that windsor & newton have a set, but I'm looking for something cheaper. Too bad noodlers doesn't offer one. If you want a bunch of colors, maybe try buying a bunch of samples from one of the online stores? They're fairly inexpensive, but the downside is that you don't get much ink from them. (I think ~2ml/sample from e.g. Goulet).
|
|
#
¿
Feb 24, 2013 18:56
|
|
|
Reivax posted:Also, regarding Noodler's pens, is there a reason people have such high expectations? Is it because he makes nice ink? My impression was that they were just rebrands of cheap Indian pens, like the flex was a Serwex something or other. I've only got an Ahab, so I can't really speak to the other pens. But I like it because it's a pen meant to be fiddled with if you don't like how it works out of the box; also because it looks somewhat like a classic pen for just $20. I suppose for some people there's also the whole 'precious resin' thing, and you can't complain about a somewhat flexible point in a pen that costs drat near nothing in pen dollars.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 16, 2013 22:17
|
|
|
Yoshi Jjang posted:Oh great, just as I asked this question, I just looked at my TWSBI 580 after only one week of not using it, and it's already got ink in places it shouldn't, like between the plastic casings in the cap and whatnot. Ugh, how do I clean this thing? For the record, I'm testing out Noodler's Apache Sunset. Would just leaving it in a glass of water overnight harm it? That's what I do when my caps are inky, although that is usually wet ink, not dried.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2013 05:09
|
|
|
RustedChrome posted:I took two flights yesterday with my TWSBI Mini. As an experiment, I filled it completely, using the TWSBI bottle, then turned the piston enough to get the last air out, then I put the cap on tightly. I don't think the cap is air tight but, just in case. The pen rode in my carry on bag the whole way. After arriving at my destination, I checked it carefully and... Not a single drop escaped. The pen wrote perfectly as well. So, it seems that if you can get the air out, fountain pens travel pretty well. I usually empty pens before flights but I did have one leak badly when I went to the top of Mauna Kea in Hawaii last year. Don't the leaks ordinarily happen only when there's air in the piston/cartridge/converter? Anecdotally, I flew with a Parker 45, and I had a layover, so I wrote with it while killing time. Even after the 2d flight, it didn't leak. However, I believe the general wisdom is don't fly with a pen that has air in the filler. Also yeah, I figured I'd ask about leaving the cap in water just in case. Honestly, the only cap I wouldn't leave in water is the one pen I have with a wood body. Then again, I also don't use that pen very much. For whatever reason the feed mechanism doesn't work right. It did spend nearly 20 years with some ink in it, but the pen's been through numerous flushings, JB's Pen Flush, and an ultrasonic, and it still won't work right. Also it may not actually be a Diplomat as it claims, based on some stray thread I found on FPN. While that would explain the weirdly fine line from a medium nib (it's like half the width of the F in my Safari), that doesn't quite help figure out what the hell is wrong with it. What's doubly weird about that is that a few years ago I contacted Diplomat USA, and they managed to track down some old style Diplomat converters which fit perfectly (for some reason I guess Cold War Diplomats don't use Int'l Std. converters, unlike the newer ones).
|
|
#
¿
Apr 11, 2013 04:38
|
|
|
Goulet owns, especially the way they handle ink samples, both individually and in sets. Related to that:  They really pack this stuff up real nice. (Guess who just got a Metropolitan exactly two days after placing an order?) Also:  (Parker hiding at the bottom) I know you shouldn't mix inks in general (at least as far as the mfgs are concerned); but within brands should be fine, right? My bottle of [Noodler's] Dostoevski is horribly light, so I figure if I mix it with some Noodler's Red-Black or Noodler's "Contract"/Legal Blue would make it more solid/darker, or possibly make a nice purple. Also Synnr, is it possible your pens are hella wet? I've heard repeatedly that Legal Lapis is the same as Legal Blue/Contract (Art Brown's, rather than Fountain Pen Hospital): The ink has played well with pretty much everything I've put it in, although I know full well that different batches of ink behave differently. If you have the ability, maybe try mixing it with a similarly colored — but drier — ink and see if it helps any. Or if you have a pen like an Ahab, where you can tweak it to adjust flow, do that. As for glass pens, like the ones J. Herbin sells: I hear they're quite popular for ink sampling/reviews. They're probably pretty reasonable for letters, too. I haven't tried one, but from what I've seen of their performance in ink reviews, they are a bit more saturated than an ink review with a fountain pen or a metal dip pen. I also believe they'll shade a bit less than a flexible nib in a dip pen. That being said, I can see why someone'd buy one and use it. If nothing else, they'll probably look wonderful in the slot on a J. Herbin bottle.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 28, 2013 00:28
|
|
|
Synastren posted:I was wondering about mixing some bulletproof Noodler's inks. If I get the chance to do so, I'll report the results here. That's essentially what I'm going to do: I'm just not sure if I want to mix Legal Blue and Dostoevski or Dostoevski and Red-Black. All three are bulletproof to a point. Also, I got my handy Goulet syringe pack today, so I can even be accurate, rather than eyeballing everything! One further thing I will note about the Metropolitan: it's an uneven comparison, given I'm using different inks, but this Pilot M seems to be about as broad as my Parker M (of unknown origins).
|
|
#
¿
Apr 28, 2013 04:58
|
|
|
ghableska posted:If any of you are interested there's a post/discuss your handwriting thread in A/T. It's pretty fun to see other people's styles. I haven't used any of Lamy's alternative nibs, but a modern (e.g. Noodler's) flex nib doesn't really require deliberate writing. Also, I'd probably be down for a letter exchange.
|
|
#
¿
May 13, 2013 00:30
|
|
|
Logistically, it's probably just a matter of PM/emails to get addresses. So to step away for a moment, I think I murdered my Ahab. The piston doesn't want to stay screwed into the section: it'll just keep screwing and pop off. Have I somehow done something dumb, or can I ignore that?
|
|
#
¿
May 13, 2013 00:53
|
|
|
gwrtheyrn posted:Once it gets started it write with no problems until I put it away again. I'm using #41 brown, and I haven't really done any cleaning aside from the initial flushing and flushing between different inks. Mine was a bit of a hard starter, but I sold it to a friend shortly after I got it. I was using Parker's blue-black in it. Beforehand,I used Jb's pen cleaner on it. It only skipped on the first stroke though. Otherwise it was a solid pen for the three days I had one. I should buy another.
|
|
#
¿
May 21, 2013 03:16
|
|
|
saphron posted:I've actually had this problem too and have been wondering whether my Metropolitan was a lemon. It's fussier about inks than I would have liked -- I tested it out twice with Terre de Feu, but it skips here and there. Even Noodler's Black takes a few scratches to start up (which was not the case with the Safari), but once it does it writes like a charm. It's still a great deal of a pen, of course...but this thread has me looking at the 580 now. This poo poo is a goddamn rabbit hole. What do you mean by "too high maintenance?" Also I suspect you want something brighter, but I've had no trouble with Poussière de Lune. It's a rather grey lavender, but it is exceptionally well-behaved. It's also a bit dry, like most of J. Herbin's inks, in my experience. They all play pretty well with cheap copy paper, as well as fancier notepads.
|
|
#
¿
May 22, 2013 20:40
|
|
|
 I'm not sure how well it came out in the photo, but the feed is pretty misaligned on my Ahab, and the drat thing works pretty well. Still rather wish I had remembered to fix that when I was cleaning it.
|
|
#
¿
May 30, 2013 02:24
|
|
|
Meldonox posted:Hm, I was going to pull the trigger on a Safari and some ink because why not, but isellpens has literally none of the inks I was considering. Some aren't in stock, some don't appear to be products they carry. I think I might just grab a couple samples. I haven't put any thought into browns or purples, does anyone have a recommendation for one that they carry? I haven't used any purples or browns other than J. Herbin's Poussiére de lune (greyish violet) and café des îles (brown), but I like them a lot. They both look great on both yellow and white. The only issue I have is that cafe des iles is a bit dry, and is a bit of a hard-starter in most of my pens. Then again, drat near all my pens are Fs, so I'm sure it's fine on something less narrow/dry.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2013 02:57
|
|
|
Xun posted:So, I just found my dad's fountain pen on the floor of my car and uh, he's been out of country for a couple months. It looks like it still has ink in it and I'm wondering if it's broken forever from sitting around in a car with nearly a full reservoir of ink or if it'll be okay if I let it soak in water for a while? It'll probably be fine. I have a dad pen, and it spent 20-odd years with ink in it. It more or less works, except it doesn't feed properly. A few months is probably nothing, but if you're worried a little bit of ammonia or soap in the water (and flush that a few times) should be fine.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 20, 2013 21:44
|
|
|
saphron posted:I've tended toward bulletproof inks for everyday writing because I have a terrible tendency to knock over liquids (water, coffee, tea, beer) while I'm working, and to do it over the most important papers/work notes on my desk currently. Oops. I do the same, which is why I tend towards the bulletproofs. But another factor is that you get a ton of ink for the price: I've had this bottle of Red-Black for nearly five years, and it's not even 1/4 empty, although my two bottles of Poussiere de Lune are (in total) maybe half-gone. Anyway, I can't help but notice that I can just pull off the converter on my Ahab. I don't know which threads are hosed: the ones on the converter, or the ones on the section; I rather suspect it's a combination. Am I just screwed on this? If I am, I guess I'll be hitting up the nearest NAPA or whatever for some silicon grease to make it an eyedropper: thank god I got Goulet's ink-mixing kit. The idea of pouring ink into a pen's barrel from the bottle is just horrific.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 28, 2013 22:12
|
|
|
Arcturas posted:Zenostein, why do you need to pop the converter off to fill? I almost always fill with a converter just by dipping the nib in the ink and drawing it up through the pen's mechanism. Have I been doing it wrong? No, I mean if I touch the converter/spin it a bit to ensure it's tightly on, it falls off. I only noticed because the drat thing was vomiting ink in the cap, and I wanted to see how much ink was left in the converter. I fill it normally. I'm pretty sure the threads on one of the mounting surfaces is dead, since I found ink on the outside of the converter in the barrel when I went to check the ink level.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 28, 2013 22:51
|
|
|
I hope I don't come across as "that guy," but honestly, I've had no issues with moleskines. I've seen all the negative reviews, but they've played nice with my pens/inks (although, I should note that drat near all my pens are euro Fs, and at most an M). I've been using this cheap Staples notebook for three years without any real bleeding or anything (besides me needing to superglue the spine back on), so if you aren't using super wet inks/pens, maybe try that? They seem to be called "Virtuo. Then again, I haven't used the fancy stuff like Clairfeontaine. I guess it's less of a concern when you use smaller points, since I've used these pens on cheap filler paper with no real issues.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 29, 2013 03:48
|
|
|
blowfish posted:I actually like my €0.99 ring books from the nearest supermarket - the paper is quite fountain pen friendly. Various bulletproof Noodler's (mostly Legal Lapis, Red-Black) and some Herbins. But yeah, sometimes they do take forever to dry, and as it turns out, I'm not very patient, so there's some ink spots on facing pages. However, a quick look at my notes says that Zhivago dried nice and quick!
|
|
#
¿
Jul 30, 2013 04:38
|
|
|
Kessel posted:Assuming you live in the US, you use a fountain pen = people already look at you funny. Don't sweat it anymore, your fate is to be that guy who uses fountain pens always. One of my favorite idiotic stories is the time I swapped pens in class, and the woman sitting next to me thought I'd done a magic trick, since the color changed. She told me to tell people I was a wizard instead of the truth :3 As an aside, if you wear pants with proper slacks-style pockets, don't sit on a curb. I'm pretty sure I lost my 45 at a rest stop that way Well, it's that or I packed it away somewhere; it sure as hell wasn't in my pocket or my car when I checked.Also, being that guy isn't all bad. If you're still in school, older teachers get kinda nostalgic about them, and sometimes you can end up selling a Metropolitan for $20 in a bar to a friend!
|
|
#
¿
Aug 1, 2013 07:17
|
|
|
Edmond Dantes posted:I got myself a Rotring Esprit a couple years ago and have been using it with montblanc cartridges for a while now. From a brief look around the internet (mostly FPN), if your Rotring esprit isn't one of the telescoping ones, any international standard converter will fit. If you need to use int'l short cartridges, though, you're out of luck. Nothing I've seen has indicated that they have interchangeable nibs, so you're probably out of luck there. As for italic pens, I don't really have much experience with those beyond those cheap plastic "calligraphy" pens; but I have a letter written in a 1.1 Lamy Joy, and it's pretty consistently thin, sorta like a medium-point felt-tip pen. I'd be tempted to say it's near the thickness you wrote in, but without some sort of reference, I can't say for sure. Off the top of my head, the Lamy Joy is a safari with a tapered end, so if you don't mind the triangle grip, that might be a cheap-ish choice. Or possibly a Pilot plumix, although I'm not sure how wide their italic points are. On the other hand, if you have a Safari or something laying around, a few bucks will get you a Lamy italic nib and they're interchangeable with (if I recall right) a bit of scotch tape. Now for an idiot question: what're the odds I can fix/get fixed at low cost the converter/piston in an ahab that's apparently stripped the threads? I can pull it off with drat near no force, so I figure the threads are done for.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 13, 2013 05:55
|
|
|
Red-Leg Scissorman posted:So Read this thread's OP, been looking to get a fountain pen since I tried them out once and liked them better than ballpoint. Got me a Pilot Metro and a Bottle of Noodler's HoD per OP's reccomendations as a starter. You don't. Stick the pen in the bottle up to about the section, squeeze the converter, let go, wait ~10s, then repeat. http://www.gouletpens.com/Articles.asp?ID=423 And here's a handy video, although I don't think he touches upon the squeeze/aero fillers in it. The general idea is the same, the pen that comes with HoD is actually intended to be used as an eyedropper, it's something of an odd bird.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 6, 2013 01:18
|
|
|
I can't speak for the larger Pelikans, but my m215 is pretty brilliant. Even with a simple steel nib, it's astonishingly smooth unless it rotates just enough to find a single somewhat rough spot. Hell, it even still looks pretty nice after three years of being tossed into a pants pocket nearly every day. Do the regular m200s have a clear ink window? The dark blue 'translucent' ink window is one of my only real complaints with the pen, since I basically have to hold it up to the sun to check the ink level. That and the cap comes off rather easily, which is only an issue if you're regularly throwing pens into pockets. The other really neat thing about the m200 line is that the nib and feed screw out, and you can replace them with a nib from a lot of other Pelikans. Richard Binder has this chart listing the compatibility. One day when I can justify the expense, I kinda want to get one of his custom nibs, just for fun. Also because the "Fine" nib is still very generous with the ink.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 13, 2013 22:14
|
|
|
If you haven't really used a fountain pen — and it seems you haven't — I'd probably not buy three different ones. Unless the new Metropolitans don't ship with a cartridge, that'll be a $20 avenue into seeing if you actually like using one or not. If you have a syringe or something similar, you can probably take ink from the Herbin cartridges and put them in an empty pilot one, yes. But if you're just trying them out, that seems a bit extreme. I had an office supply place nearby that sold Pilot Varsity/Vpens — you can find them at Staples or OfficeMax or something similar usually — they're cheap, disposable fountain pens. I'd probably consider trying one out for a bit before buying three pens. As for the ink, I'd tell you to find a color you like and just grab a bottle, but those things can last for a very long time, and if you don't like the whole experience, a bottle would be pointless. I can't really speak to discounts, because I haven't been tracking them, but I'd expect that if you wait a bit (possibly after Thanksgiving), you might find a nice package deal or something. All that being said, if you have a syringe of some sort and want to play with different inks, a few pen retailers have ink samples. For example (and this is the only one I've used), Goulet Pens will give you ~1.5mL of ink for ~$2.50US, which is more than enough to try out various inks. But honestly, if you haven't used fountain pens, I'd probably start with a Varsity and see if the writing style suits you. For what it's worth, I started out with one pen and a bottle of ink, and I'm only halfway through it roughly five years later. Verdugo posted:Anyone else feel [outside of this thread] if you're not spending $300 on a pen, any questions / concerns you have about stuff is just flat out ignored? Whether it be from pen manufacturers, other fountain pen communities, etc. Examples: I've had some staining issues with my Ahab and my Konrad. Asked Noodler's about it directly, completely ignored. Brought it up with some fountain pen people, "lol, the pens are essentially disposable, so buy new ones. Or ask this ancient samurai pen master if he can help, but it'll cost you 3x more than the pen to even have him look at it." Maybe the reason I bought these in the first place was because I'm a poor and can't afford a $300 pen right now, but I can afford a $10 replacement part. I feel like if anyone has a Noodler's-related issue, they're going to be ignored, to a point. I mean, FPN had to modify their rules to stop people from white-knighting inks (or whatever the negative equivalent is) for Noodler's stuff. Now that Ahabs and the like have been out for a while, I guess people will tend to dismiss them as cheap fiddler's pens; for example, I imagine I'd get more feedback asking for help on a Safari than an Ahab or a Konrad. Part of it is definitely how you phrase the question, but no matter where you go, people will be more inclined (and have a better answer) if you want help with a more expensive pen than something that costs $20 — especially an Ahab. But I think if you act a bit like you don't really understand all the terms, you might get better help, at least on FPN. Even with their ban on disparaging Noodler's inks, a fiddly pen like that will get a bit of flack. I would use this space to promote Art Brown's store in NYC, but it shut down in August (RIP), so if you're in the NYC area, I guess you're stuck with Fountain Pen Hospital. Which is a shame: Art Browns ran my pain-in-the-rear end pen through their ultrasonic for no charge (not that it really helped, but still). I've never really cashed in on a pen's warrantee, going back to an earlier chat. My Pelikan works pretty well except at a single angle, and a little chrome-plastic ring off the end-knob is nothing worth calling home for. However (and this is a bit of a long shot), back in 2010 or so, Diplomat's customer service was excellent. I needed a converter for a pen marked "Diplomat" and "West Germany." Now, I know it was actually a Platinum with some clever rebranding (Platinum->Diplomat->Tiffanys), but they still let me buy some old-style converters for the list price of new (int'l std.) ones. They worked sorta-well: not bad for a pen the company didn't have any data on — I only "found out" nearly five years later that they were actually Platinums (does explain how fine the line from a "Medium" nib was, though). Out of curiosity, Verdugo, did you contact Noodler's directly, or their distributor? e. Assuming the Metropolitan, at the least, has a converter, yes, a bottle of ink will do you better. Don't buy one of Noodler's huge bottles if you're not sure. I love and use these pens more or less daily. I have a small collection of bottles, and I think I finished maybe one ink bottle (it was a 60mL J. Herbin), since 2008. I guess if you write a ton, that's different. Zenostein fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Nov 14, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Nov 14, 2013 06:41
|
|
|
Demon_Corsair posted:Wait, Baystate Blue destroys nibs? gently caress, that is my current favorite. I'd love to know if there's anything as bold as BSB — the impression I've gotten is that it's more or less one-of-a-kind (like the rest of the Baystates). Then again, I've never used it myself, I just recall that it ate through the feeds of some Safaris a few years back, and that it's a monster to get off of anything if you accidentally spill some or splash it or whatever. And while he's crazy, you'd never know it if he didn't let that bit of himself leak through in his introductory videos for new colors/pens/&c. Doesn't really bother me any, dude's free to have an opinion. Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about Noodler's anything eating through a pen. The worst they'll do is introduce a ton of nib creep and if you use a bulletproof one, you'll have some extra cleaning to do if you want to swap inks or whatever. Incidentally, in terms of having ink issues, most of the time the worst you'll get is something like the ink separating if you've let it sit for a long while, or possibly mold growing in it. And if you mix inks, they might react oddly and clog up a pen. But just straight out of the bottle (maybe shake it a bit first), pretty much anything fountain-pen safe should behave nicely enough. And Verdugo, I think I recall someone having some luck (or at least getting a response) from Noodler's distributor Luxury Brands, but since that's who you're writing to from their Contact page now, I guess that may've been who you talked to.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 14, 2013 21:25
|
|
|
Tulip posted:It was really a question about grips and weights, not nibs, sorry for not being clear. Well, off hand, the Safaris and Alstars are the only pens I can think of that have a grip like that, so if you don't want/need the section to tell you where to hold the pen, you're golden for drat near anything else. As for weight, I grabbed some pens I had laying around and a questionably accurate kitchen scale. The Safari came up at about 17g, which is more or less what my Hero 616 weighs. A Pelikan m215 came up at about 22g, with some ink in it. The Pelikan is noticeably heavier than the Safari, but it's not like trying to write with a boat anchor or anything. Were you looking for a pen that's lighter/smaller, or just kinda fishing? Personally, I find the length of the pen and whether it's better balanced posted/unposted to be more important than its weight. From top to bottom: Safari, Hero, Pelikan (film canister for scale, because I couldn't find a quarter or something sensible)  Of the three, I always post the Hero, and the Safari feels a bit weird if it's not posted, but then it seems almost too big, even if it is at most 1" longer.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2013 02:12
|
|
|
I love the needlessly dramatic music in that video; it's so very Nathan. Incidentally, based on that and a couple of reviews I've seen on FPN, would something like Herbin's poussiere de lune be close to the crimehacked result? Or is there some other residual effect to it? Some of the reviews show that the normal color's got some sweet metallic flecking in the ink. But the purple just looks kinda like pdl, more of a dusty sort of lavender than anything else.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 12, 2013 13:51
|
|
|
milpreve posted:
In addition to everything that's already been said, it just kinda looks neat. You should try it some time! As an aside, the normal blade on a swiss army knife has an appallingly low ink capacity. 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 18, 2013 02:05
|
|
|
powderific posted:Looking for some new ink to put in my Lamy 2000 with EF nib. The noodler and private reserve inks I've used write too wet from the Lamy so I'm trying to find a different manufacturer. I have some Waterman blue that writes well, but it's not a very pretty color. A dusty purple would be nice, or maybe some interesting shade of green. J. Herbin's inks generally run dry for me; and Poussiere de Lune is one of my favorites:  Thanks to the rubbish lighting, the further right on that image you get, the closer you are to what it usually looks like for me. Solkanar512 posted:Look what came in the mail yesterday! I usually post my pelikan, and the only wear on the body from the cap is over the section from screwing/unscrewing it. Posting hasn't done the pen any harm.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 5, 2014 06:49
|
|
|
The bulb is dead handy for C/C pens, if you can get it to fit right on the nipple; I've been too lazy to fiddle with mine so it'll work that way. If you're going from similar hues in the same brand, I wouldn't really worry too much about the water being perfectly clear. I'd only go that far if I were switching brands, or going from red to blue or something like that. Then again, whenever I clean pens, I usually wrap the nib in a paper towel and then stick it in a demitasse/shot glass/film can overnight to dry, like so: Kessel posted:Yeah, you should rinse till the water's clear. It's more important when you're filling from a bottle and don't want to contaminate your huge pool of ink with another colour, but if you're just pulling them out of sampler vials and don't mind a tiny bit of mixing go hog wild. If you let it go overnight you'll get all the water out, and even if you didn't get the water perfectly clear, you'll get most of the leftover ink out, too. Plus then your lovely new ink won't be ever so slightly diluted when you fill up.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 10, 2014 01:00
|
|
|
Worst part about J. Herbin bottles (if only because you get there so quickly): Now, for a c/c pen, this isn't too much of an issue, I can just throw the converter in there, get ink all over my fingers, and call it a day. Or use a syringe, whatever. That'll even work for something like my Pelikan. However, I've just got the Ahab's nib how I like it, and I've superglued the converter on Damnit Nathan, why are your threads so rubbish?; is my only bet for that going to be something slow as hell like feed saturation? I guess once I clean out the Ahab I can at least try a syringe down the ink channel on the bottom of the feed…
|
|
#
¿
Mar 29, 2014 06:31
|
|
|
Didn't Pelikan have a highlighter version of the M2xx? I'm pretty sure it was basically a demo with a BB tip or something silly. But working off that, couldn't you just use something with a larger italic point and highlighter ink to highlight? I mean, I'm not sure I'd trust it over something I'd written with a non-waterproof ink, but for highlighting books or something that ought to be fine, right? Actually, here:  I used a C1 nib (~4mm) and Noodler's Dostoevski, since my copy is appallingly light. It worked out alright, but I'm reasonably certain both things I highlighted were bulletproof to some extent, and they were very certainly dry. Highlighting something that's not quite dry'll just leave a mess, but I doubt that'll be an issue for you.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 27, 2014 02:45
|
|
|
Yoshi Jjang posted:Can anybody identify what pen this is? I know it's a tiny picture, so it might be really difficult. 1st one looks like a Pelikan of some sort, based on the clip.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 24, 2014 05:39
|
|
|
laertes22 posted:Well, that is good to know, as I thought I was the only one that had problems with Diamine Ox Blood. That having been said, does anyone have recommendations for a good red (I'm thinking blood red or paper grading red) that is not Diamine or Noodlers? Herbin's Rouge Hematite is perfectly paper-grade red, but if you let it sit for a few days, it'll almost certainly gum up the nib a bit. I don't think I've put it in a pen that didn't have a vent hole in the cap though (and the pen also has a tiny F nib, to boot), so that's almost certainly a factor. Shame you're excluding Noodler's, though. Red-Black is a pretty excellent ink.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 26, 2014 03:21
|
|
|
I'm like 95% sure this is/was Red-Black: It's certainly waterproof, that's for certain.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 28, 2014 00:31
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 19:31 |
|
|
Rather than a metro, he should get a Lamy 2000. It's modern and austere, rather than looking very classically "fountain pen"-like — perfect, since he's looking for something relatively simple. It's certainly pricier, but surely that's fine.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 17, 2014 01:30
|
|