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Couple of months ago I was going through my fathers photography stuff and came upon the following: Meopta Flexaret TLR Which I still haven't cheked thoroughly. Praktisix, which doesn't work. Film advance lever does not revert to starting position after winding, but can be pushed back manually. Shutter speed is the same regardless of setting, seems about 1/8. Pentacon Six TL  (shown next to it is Sekonic Multileader meter, in good working condition) The P6 is working great, it's showing some scuff marks, and mirror has some black spots on the edges, but nothing major. I have a metering prism for it, but it isn't working, which is hardly surprising considering it wasn't used in about 30 years. I can't open the battery compartment, seems like battery might have leaked inside. also the corner is chipped, but it's not a big thing. As for lenses, I have 50mm f/4 Flektogon, works fine, no mold, but filter thread is bent. Seems like the lens fell, or hit something hard. I also found 80mm f/2.8 Biometar, which also looks fine, except that when focusing there is great increase in resistance about 2/3 way towards infinity. I might have that lens checked. And lastly there is 180mm f/2.8 Sonnar. I was shooting with it, and while turning focus ring I heard a "twank" sound, and now my apperture won't step down  .Last week I took P6 on a vacation along with couple of rolls of Portra 400 and HP5, I'll gett them processed sometime next week. It's been ages since I've shot film, and I've only shot 35mm before, so I'm really excited how It'll turn out. Edit: Also found these in the bottom of the fridge (sorry for the crappy pic):  Dates on Ektachrome is 1984, except two bottom rolls which are 1977 and 1978  Other rolls are also from the '80s. Two bottom-right rolls (Agfachrome and ORWO) were stored in the attic, which easily reaches ~50 celsius during summer. I should throw this out, shouldn't I? The Claptain fucked around with this message at 13:58 on Sep 12, 2015 |
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Sep 12, 2015 11:12
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iammeandsoareyou posted:Edit: Make sure it is E-6. I have run across older slide film that used obsolete processes like E-3, which you can't get developed unless you cross process. Yeah, that roll of EH120 is E-4. I can't find the data for that Type B roll, but I'm pretty sure it isn't E-6 (also it is ISO 32, that's a slow film if I've seen one). Four rolls of Ektachrome 64 are E-6 so I'll definitely shoot them. I haven't found which process is used for ORWOChrom film yet (and neither have I heard of it before today). As for Agfachrome 50L and CT18, they use some specific process, and can't be cross-processed as E-6, don't they. I guess I should take this to film thread.
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Sep 12, 2015 19:18
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I got first couple of rolls shot with my ancient Pentacon Six processed, and I'm generally happy with the results. Photos are generally crappy, because I just wanted to see if the camera was working, but, nonetheless, I'm bought with medium format:    I also had this happen:   These two frames are next to each other, in the middle of the roll of film. That splotch, which I presume is a light leak, is centered between these two frames. From second picture it is pretty clear that second curtain stayed half-open for a moment, which would overexpose the film, but I'm surprised that light leaked on next frame. If that is what happened at all. Also, for anyone familiar with Pentacon Six, how uneven is spacing between the frames supposed to be?
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Sep 21, 2015 19:57
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ape posted:Hm, on mine the 1/125 speed sticks open but the rest are fine. You should try running it a bunch with no film in it at various speeds and see if it's just one that has issues. I had some frame overlap issues on one roll, but I think I just loaded it wrong that time. The roll was evenly shot at 1/500 and 1/1000. I've already tried running without film, and didn't see the curtains getting stuck. Only time that curtain is not "behaving" is at 1/2 and 1 second, but it just stays fully open a bit longer (not much though), and then closes without issue. Now I remember that while shooting this rool my apperture was staying stepped down, so I took of the lens and saw that lever which pushes apperture pin is bent a little so I nudged it where it should be, which fixed it, but it is possible that light found it's way to the film then. I will test it more, and I believe I should get it cleaned and checked, just in case.
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Sep 22, 2015 12:45
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Oct 17, 2015 21:58
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 Crooked Signpost by Vidak, on Flickre: Now I see I can't crop for poo poo 
The Claptain fucked around with this message at 10:55 on Oct 28, 2015 |
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Oct 28, 2015 09:48
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I am not familiar with this camera, but from what I read at various websites, seems like it is not true TLR, ie. view lens is not coupled with taking lens, and cannot be focused. Apperture and shutter speed seem very limiting. It also seems that lenses are plastic. As for whether you're going to waste film, if I had 120 film lying around, but no other MF camera, I'd shoot a roll and see how I like the results.
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Nov 17, 2015 16:31
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SMERSH Mouth posted:What does the thread think about the various pentacon six system cameras and lenses? Something about the giant SLR form factor and second-world Zeiss lenses intrigues me. Are the Carl Zeiss Jena lenses about as good as the stuff Fuji & Pentax put out for their MF film cameras back in the day? I understand that the bodies are kind of a crap shoot in terms of reliability. I wouldn't call them crapshoot in terms of reliability, well taken care of P6 TL bodies are surprisingly reliable. Earlier models are relatively hit or miss (that is non-TL versions and Praktiksix). Do not trust the metering prisms, they seem prone to failure, use external meter instead. What is mostly failing in them is wiring, though, so it is usually fixable, but not really worth the hassle. Non-metered prism is lighter, anyway. I am not familiar with wider range of lenses, just the standard ones (Flektagon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8). Some models of Sonnar 180/2.8 apparently have issues with stuck apperture blades because of old lubricants, but I do not know how common it is, seems that is mostly the issue of Zebra models. Also, on zebra Biometars some yellowing may occur because of thoriated glass. Despite that, they are all pretty good lenses, very sharp overall. This website has probably been mentioned before, it is a good reference for P6 systems. I would definitely place east German cameras above FSU ones in terms of reliability and performance.
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Dec 8, 2015 12:43
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HolyDukeNukem posted:Got back a roll of Provia 100 Please straighten the horizon. Otherwise, looks really nice.
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Dec 18, 2015 15:37
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This rocks.
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Jan 24, 2016 14:41
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Kiev 60 is (inferior) copy of Pentacon Six, which is actually pretty reliable and well built camera. I don't know how hard it would be to find P6 in Ukraine (considering they were copying it), but that's one more option to look at. Here in Serbia they usually go for 150-300 EUR, depending on the condition and accessories.
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Feb 3, 2016 15:36
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IanTheM posted:I have a broken Pentacon 6, but I'm thinking of picking up a body since I have 50mm, 80mm and 180mm lenses for it, plus a bunch of accessories. Supposedly there's a guy who runs a service that overhauls and repairs P6 bodies, I can't remember the website though. Since you have lenses and bunch of accessories it would be worth repairing or getting new body. You can see a list of P6 repair services here
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Feb 7, 2016 11:00
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SMERSH Mouth posted:I'm of the same sentiment, and am actually a little jealous that you're over there and can have your pick of the crop from from the local second-hand market, let alone the surplus-refurbishing factories. If you want pentacon six compatibility you should get Kiev 88cm, regular Kiev 88 has different mount.
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Feb 8, 2016 13:31
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The second one looks a bit bluish to me.
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Feb 20, 2016 12:09
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While browsing local classifieds, I saw this: Linhof Kardan Color 45s, being sold for 150 EUR. I do not know much about large format, I mostly shoot medium, so how good is this price for this camera? I have only remotely thought about shooting large format, but this got me thinking, I might start investing in gear.
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Mar 27, 2016 22:38
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nielsm posted:Sounds like a very good price. But check, does that include bellows? Any film holders? Any lens boards?[quote]
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Mar 27, 2016 23:12
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Welp, that Linhof for sale I posted earlier was already gone by the time I got in contact with seller.
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Apr 2, 2016 10:55
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Bragging time: I had CZJ Sonnar 180/2.8 (for Pentacon Six) with non-working apperture. Some time ago, believing it was just stuck, I took it to cool old camera repairman here. After fiddling with the lens for hours, he decided that it probably couldn't be fixed because it seems something inside broke off. Today I was bored and against my better judgement completely disassembled the lens. everything looks fine, except that the ring holding apperture in place is bent, and apperture blades fell out of grooves. Quick work with pliers, ring is bent into shape. While at it, I clean and re-lube everything. Reassembly was very fiddly, but few hours later I have completely working lens. (crappy celphone pics)  Thankfully, it's a little bit more compact without the hood.  The Claptain fucked around with this message at 15:20 on May 1, 2016 |
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May 1, 2016 15:04
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My Pentacon Six just broke - shutter release button was getting stuck, so I tried unscrewing it, and the threaded part just fell apart I need it for later today, so I just stuck short allen key into the hole, works perfectly. Good thing is that I have broken Praktiksix at home from which I can cannibalize the part.
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Jul 1, 2016 10:38
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big scary monsters posted:I think that assembly must be a weakness on the P6. I've just had my second one fail by the film advance breaking - the lever that lets you release it when you get the to end of a roll is held in place by a plastic screw that seems to snap easily. I tried unscrewing the first one and hosed it up worse just like you, fortunately that does mean I can cannibalise it to fix my other one when I feel brave enough to take it apart. The shutter release actually still works on mine and film advances OK as far as I can tell, but when you pull the film advance lever back I'm worried it's releasing tension on the film and will probably gently caress up spacing/lead to non-flat film. Film advance continued working fine on mine, and indeed, sticking allen wrench in hole into which shutter release button screws let me release the shutter. I have managed to transplant the button assembly from broken Praktiksix I have. It is a bit shorter than on P^, so I had to use the pin and shim from P6, but it works fine now. The only problem is that lock on the button is reversed, so that takes some using to. e: I'll snap some pics of disassembled button when I come home, if that helps. The Claptain fucked around with this message at 11:37 on Jul 4, 2016 |
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Jul 4, 2016 11:31
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