|
Suicide Watch posted:Wow, I'm still manually directing the AF points on my D50 because there's only 5 points so AF-C is pointless. Any modern DSLR must feel insane. Shockingly not as bad as you think. I had a D50 for a long time as it was the last good Dxx body with an AF-Screw.
|
#
¿
Dec 16, 2013 19:37
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 14, 2024 11:33 |
|
|
Wasnt good.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 17, 2013 16:16
|
|
|
SoundMonkey posted:It was ok if you pretended the video feature didn't exist. The D80/90 imo were the worst cameras Nikon ever made followed by the F100.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 18, 2013 17:04
|
|
|
Corkscrew posted:Just so I'm not going insane... Amazon seems to think than a Tamron 70-300 (model A17NII) is incompatible with the D5200, but the Tamron site itself seems to disagree. Which is right? Its compatible. Amazon makes mistakes at times. 90% of all F mount glass will mount and at the very least give you meterless, manual mode. I hate Krock but he did one thing decent: http://bit.ly/KhuhY0
|
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2013 17:52
|
|
|
Nothing is better in lowlight than sculpting what you saw. Scrubs.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2014 19:00
|
|
|
Kenshin posted:Don't use JPEG. HAHAHAHAAH. Never ever use jpg, ever. All you end up with is poo poo results like:  (Fuji XE1, Leica 35mm R, JPG) Now shut up. Jpg is acceptable with certain cameras, and meh on others. Its a matter of preference and how your camera processes the jpg. There are some cameras that do JPG better than others and there are those that give bad results. Its up to you to decide which you want to use. RAW will give you a few extra instances where you can recover mistakes but the gap is closing and if you own a Fuji camera, you probably never need to ever look at a raw file ever again. The right answer is shut up and take pictures and edit however the gently caress you want. Musket fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Jan 5, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Jan 5, 2014 19:47
|
|
|
Kenshin posted:Yeah, this. I am in no way limited by JPG with my files. I used to shoot nothing but NEF files cuz lets face it, Nikon knows dick about JPG files. I shot RAF for a few weeks with my Fuji, Found that I dont need to shoot RAW, the JPG nails it. As for more detailed heavyhanded editing, I have had not one problem using jpg. If i really needed to have a raw file these days, I use slidefilm  JPG is very dependent on your camera maker. Most do not produce a very good one. You dont see people raving about Nikon or Canons jpgs. Shut up and take pictures.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 6, 2014 01:15
|
|
|
RAW: Cuz i got it wrong the first time 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 7, 2014 18:05
|
|
|
I just tell photonoobs to use their light meter and to aim for the neutral middle part.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 13, 2014 16:12
|
|
|
Entenzahn posted:I've recently got a Nikon D7000 for christmas and now I'm trying to learn how to use it. Mostly that means I read books, look at other people's photos (some cool stuff on this forum) and make time every week to explore the area around me and take shots. Anything else I should do as a newbie photographer? As for books, I've already read Understanding Exposure and I've got my eyes on The Photographer's Eye and Art & Fear, as well as The Art of Photography and Design! although these two seem hard to come by in Europe and cost between 50 and 120€. Do what every xmas camera gotter does, Start a 365 photo project.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 14, 2014 16:14
|
|
|
Mest0r posted:Just out of curiosity, how is the quality control with Yongnuo these days? I still have an original 560 that works well, but a few years ago people were having units randomly crap out on them and trying to get them replaced with a warranty was a pain. Amazons return policy really makes buying them not a big risk these days.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 17, 2014 16:56
|
|
|
Lysandus posted:I hope I am asking in the right thread. Is that with lens or body only? Have you looked up anything about the D60 at all? Is this your max budget? I ask because the D60 is very old in the tooth. Is it a good starter camera, maybe. Could it be old enough to skip and save up for something better? Yes.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2014 17:16
|
|
|
http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Products/Product/Digital-SLR-Cameras/25478B/D5100.html Is a good start. It all depends on your budget and how deep you want to head down this rabbit hole. Got 1500 to spend? Go balls out with a Fuji XE2 or Nikon D7100 or Canonwhateverthefuck. Buy a Olympus MJU 35mm camera, learn to bulk roll your own black and white, dev it at home, scan and be done with ever buying a digitalwhatzit. Musket fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Jan 21, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2014 23:18
|
|
|
ante posted:Why would you turn it off? Battery life, Any OIS/VR lens on a tripod besides specific Canon IS technology, are reasons to turn off IS. IS/VR on a tripod can cause soft/blurry images as the IS/VR gets confused. I keep mine off in daylight cuz theres no reason to stabilize 1/500th unless im shooting 600mm.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 22, 2014 17:20
|
|
|
Frijolero posted:I was asking if my gear was kosher and if I made a mistake in not getting a VR lens, but fine you durned goon. Here's my very first pic: Bump up your iso to get shutter speeds high enough to defeat your lack of VR.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 22, 2014 17:21
|
|
|
keyframe posted:Yea I stopped shooting RAW completely unless it is an extremely tricky lighting situation. Mainly because the Fuji JPEG's are amazing, and they are so much faster to work with in LR/Photoshop compared to RAW. Enjoy working with an incomplete format, noob.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 11, 2014 17:33
|
|
|
How to send things to multiple groups without using flickrs uploadr crap: http://steeev.site50.net/flickr/multi.group.sender.htm
|
|
#
¿
Feb 13, 2014 17:04
|
|
|
FISHMANPET posted:
lens is now trashed, enjoy your smeary photos. (just wipe it off, its glass, not a newborn babby)
|
|
#
¿
Feb 26, 2014 21:44
|
|
|
McCoy Pauley posted:Huh -- I wouldn't have guessed. Thanks, that's an interesting read. Doesn't leave me inclined to drop $65+ on a CPL right now. There is still plenty of reasons to get a CPL honestly. The downside of photography is learning to pay attention to what you are shooting and what tools you are using and the effect those tools can have on the finished product. This hobby requires attention to detail, which most of you autists should have no problems with.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 27, 2014 16:20
|
|
|
Chernori posted:I wasn't sure if this should be posted in the mirrorless thread or here, but I'm actually also looking to get a simple circular polarizing filter (as a gift for someone). They'll be using a Panasonic lumix 20mm 1.7 on their Olympus EPL-3. I saw the post above and was wondering if price really makes much of a difference. In Photodollars it pays to buy something with a higher cost in most cases. A bad CPL is bad no matter how hard you try to fix it in post. That being said you cant go really wrong with Tiffen. You can go wrong with the Polaroid.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 27, 2014 19:59
|
|
|
Chalets the Baka posted:Haven't heard of that site before, thanks for the tip. Would there be any reason to consider a modern crop sensor instead, or does having a full-frame trump feature improvements? Assuming manual controls only. Theres no real reason to consider crop over full frame. Its all about what your willing to throw at it money wise. If its your first camera, I would throw money at lenses, and get an inexpensive body. Bodies degrade in value and tech so drat fast while the lenses will outlive you. Even the cheapest intro body has full manual controls, even if you gotta use a dial+button to make adjustments. There are also APS-C (crop sensors, not M43 tinyframe) mirrorless systems that are amazing for inexpensive price points.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 3, 2014 17:44
|
|
|
Delivery McGee posted:DSLRs, like cars, are best bought lightly used. And lenses are best if they were made for film in the '90s. The best lenses are Elmarit and Summilux made in the 60s.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 14, 2014 17:26
|
|
|
timrenzi574 posted:Why comes my 50X zoom says 100mm on it but this 2500$ 70-200mm that I bought cause the guy on dpreview said I should be ashamed to own a DSLR without one doesn't look as far away? Because 
|
|
#
¿
Mar 19, 2014 15:16
|
|
|
Redleg posted:I picked up a Pentax red ring DA 55-300 ED WR and tried getting pictures at 300mm. 55mm pictures are impressively sharp compared with my other lenses, but all the 300mm shots are really blurry. I have shutter speed at 1/320 and I am stabilizing against a post. I have read suggestions to turn off noise reduction and image stabilization but have not tried that yet. Any ideas on things I can do to get detail at 300mm? I bet you still were over the shutter speed rule of 1/focal length to not show shaky stroke-hand. The other issue is that if your lens is 5.6 at the 300mm end, it probably isnt optically its best until f8-11. Post your photo with EXIF data intact please.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 15, 2014 18:27
|
|
|
Redleg posted:I deleted those without thinking They seem OK to me. We are talking an inexpensive zoom with inexpensive optics so its not going to be the sharpest tool in teh shed, but still good enough. One thing you may try is to up the sharpening in Lightroom to about 20-30 with the slider. You hit diffraction limit at f18 and crept up on it at f16. Apertures near f16 on APS-C size sensors will start to get soft at about f16. Going over this fstop increases softness  You may be able to fix this in PS with the Camera Shake Tool http://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/using/reduce-camera-shake-induced-blurring.html Musket fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Apr 15, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Apr 15, 2014 20:29
|
|
. It was dusk so I used a wide open aperture and that probably explains the blurriness. I tried a few test shots this morning using a narrower aperture (f11-20 range) using ISO to compensate.
|
Redleg posted:Thank you! The terminology helps quite a bit (was not aware of diffraction limit or have seen it but didn't understand how it applied). This also impacts my default to 16 in sunny conditions - I am reading articles that show this isn't the best default. A word about Sunny 16. Its an old rule thats good to know when your metering system fails or you lack any true way to get an accurate meter reading, but you dont need to use f16 just because its sunny outside. Those goat pics would have been good at f8/f11.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 15, 2014 21:34
|
|
|
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm
|
|
#
¿
Apr 16, 2014 15:28
|
|
|
Bobby Deluxe posted:
Dont worry about NYC and focus on your place. If you feel you have nothing to shoot at home, you aint lookin.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 15, 2014 18:46
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:
It doesnt make it go faster.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2014 17:58
|
|
|
If you want to ensure your camera is never stolen, buy a Pentax. (buy gear insurance, you nitwits).
|
|
#
¿
Jul 10, 2014 16:16
|
|
|
Kenshin posted:I've pretty much accepted that at some point during my travels around the world my camera will be stolen, whether taken when I'm not looking (less likely, I am paranoid about keeping my gear in physical contact with myself at all times) or taken as I get mugged (more likely). None of this will happen. But if it did, your gear insurance would cover most of the replacement cost. So buy it and stop treating the camera like its a newborn baby. Go rough it up like a good whore.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 10, 2014 18:39
|
|
|
Kenshin posted:I'm not exactly delicate with my gear. Ask your renters insurance agent.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 10, 2014 20:24
|
|
|
Kenshin posted:Huh, interesting. Will-do, since I've already got pretty drat great renters insurance. (I honestly had no idea it could cover equipment that I travel with) READ THE FINE PRINT AND READ THE FINE PRINT AND READ THE FINE PRINT of what your coverage will not in fact cover. READ THE FINE PRINT.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 10, 2014 22:13
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:I've been very pleased with my Pentax so far, but one thing I've not yet figured out. If I shoot someone against a backdrop of the overcast sky, the subject will be too dark. This is even if I aim directly at the subject when focusing/metering. I'm using auto mode because it's easy. RTFM
|
|
#
¿
Jul 14, 2014 16:48
|
|
|
I dropped 270bux on my 58mm noct-nikkor and its bokey is better than yours, and i use it on a mirrorless.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 14, 2014 22:22
|
|
|
If you dont buy full frame, you a scrub.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 15, 2014 16:59
|
|
|
triplexpac posted:Where do these knockoff lenses come from? Cant be any worse than a Bowyer.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 18, 2014 17:39
|
|
|
I use velcro to keep my modifiers on my flash guns, nbd. Not worried about a fire. ITs an SB700 not a 1600watt norman.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 27, 2014 20:22
|
|
|
Primo Itch posted:I might be looking in the near future for an dSLR with this requirements: The alternative is to look at a Fuji XE2. Will be able to use legacy glass with adapters. The EVF is a dream for manual glass vs a optical vf. Great ISO good to great af if you buy any of the fuji glass. It's apsc and very compact. Has a good manual focus peek that you can zoom in at 10x to confirm you have things you want in focus. Falls in your price range as well.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 15, 2014 02:49
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 14, 2024 11:33 |
|
|
The only button that matters on a camera is the delete button. Learn to use it.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 7, 2014 04:48
|
|