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It doesn't matter if Sony makes cameras out of magnesium since they assume you dump your current body in the trash every six months when they put out the new one. Also more knobs make you more of a professional so that costs more.
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Nov 17, 2016 06:40
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Someone I know is asking for a camera recommendation for her daughter who is expecting a baby. She is not interested in photography (the daughter, that is) and just wants something nice around 500 dollars to capture every day moments better than what a cell phone could do. I recommended the RX100m2 since that way the soon to be grandmother (who is into photography) can work on raws if they have shots they want to improve and the size is nice and small - is there anything else that would be a better choice? She was looking at the Fuji X30 but I don't know that it would be better than the Sony.
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Nov 28, 2016 20:16
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Lutha Mahtin posted:Anyone else read this and see less a technology problem, and more a potential for hurt feelings? It sounds like everyone here means well, but is she really asking someone who "doesn't care" about photography to lug around an extra device while they're learning how to be a mom, just so grandma can get photos in her nerd file format? The daughter was the one asking her mom (the photographer) for suggestions, who then in turn asked me and some others on a facebook photography group, so she (the daughter) is wanting and willing to carry around something extra. It's not that unusual to all of the sudden want a better camera even if you are not into photography when you have a kid - I have several friends who asked me for suggestions when they were expecting or shortly after their kids were born, and although I was into shooting film before having my daughter, that was when I got my first "nice" digital camera since I wanted to take nice photos of my kid. Although for me it ended up different since that is what got me into photography in a big way and not just wanting to take kid photos like I had initially expected.
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Nov 29, 2016 18:03
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windex posted:Lol, in most places outside of the US and Canada there are no straight lines in structures and even internal walls or comparing one building to the next is pitched off center from "level", so the horizon indicator is useless. It doesn't matter - still shoot level.
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Dec 1, 2016 06:49
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windex posted:Sorry I forgot the computer does all the things right and learning composition is bad? Maybe don't instruct people to not shoot level then. Do you see people walking around with their heads tilted when looking at something that isn't level? Perhaps let's tilt the camera when shooting a hill? Using the in camera level as a starting point will be a good place to start in terms of advice for a beginner who just posted shots that were all tilted and asked for advice.
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Dec 1, 2016 08:05
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Why is the Sony version so much cheaper?
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Dec 3, 2016 18:06
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Maybe get her a mirrorless instead of a dslr if you are concerned about size. What is your budget?
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Dec 15, 2016 00:28
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I would look at something used and oaynas littlenas you can. When you buy a body you are also investing in a system and that includes lenses. Later down the road you might realize that what you bought new (a rebel and some cheap zooms for example) are not doing it for you and then the money spent on brand new beginner equipment is basically lost. Don't worry about that too much because getting started is the priority and who knows where that will lead - I am a big mirrorless fan so I always recommend Fuji because their lenses are great and what you end up buying might be stuff you actually still use as you get better and the external controls help teach you about the fundamentals of photography easier than dealing with those settings through dials and seeing them on the screen. You could get a Fuji X-T1 used for what you would spend on that rebel new.
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Mar 4, 2017 00:48
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A cheap prime lens would be very good to get. A prime lens is a lens with a fixed focal length, not a zoom like the kit lens that comes with the camera. The 50mm is cheap and has a wide aperture (the f number is low, like 1.8) which will let you shoot in lower light and also get noticeable bokeh (the blurred backgrounds that people associate with dslr cameras). Regarding memory cards, if you are shooting jpg, which you will probably do for now, you can get a small card but make it a fast one. You don't really need other accessories. Except maybe a comfortable strap since the once that come with cameras are pretty poo poo.
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Mar 19, 2017 04:15
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If you could swing it getting both would be great. Or, what a lot of people here recommend, is take your kit lens and put it to 24mm and shoot with it for a few days without moving it (no zooming, keep it at 24mm and move your feet to get the shot you want rather than using the zoom). Then set it to 50mm and do the same for a couple of days. You'll get a feel of what might be more useful for you. You'll get more background blur (bokeh) with the 50mm but because it acts like a short telephoto you won't be able to get as much in the frame and will have to be further away than if you were using the 24mm. The 24mm is a great all purpose focal length but it won't do as well for traditional portraits, won't be quite as good in low light since it is f2.8 vs. f1.8 (lower numbers mean it collects more light). Either would be better than your kit lens at those lengths though. When I was starting out my first prime was a 50mm and I found that useful because I could start thinking about portraiture more and I used the kit for anything I couldn't get with the 50, but if you want more environmental shots (street photography, landscapes and all that) then the 24 will be more useful for you. My rational was that if I was doing street or landscapes that the light would generally be high enough that the kit lens would do fine whereas you won't get anywhere near the background separation and bokeh as using a 50 f1.8
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Mar 19, 2017 05:41
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I always hang cameras from my shoulders nowadays so having an nice strap is essential for comfort. When I did use the stamps from various cameras I would wrap them around my wrist too and they work well for that but having two bodies makes that not practical and having a blackrapid (attached to the left side of the camera) makes it easy to carry and keep my arms free, easily brought up to my face when I need it and easily removable if I want to have it with out the strap for a while. It is easily one of my favorite accessory purchases. You might also want to get some lens pens. They have a brush on one side and a cleaner on the other and make cleaning lenses really easy. Get the one with the three sizes and you get a tiny one for the viewfinder too and they come in a microcloth bag that you can also use to clean the screen and larger areas. You'll also want a bag eventually but get lenses first and then worry about that.
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Mar 19, 2017 07:37
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If you are not set on it I would recommend Fuji honestly. Being new to photography it will be easier to learn with the external controls, if you are shooting jpg the jpg output of Fuji bodies are much better and they actually care about their APS-C lens lineup unlike Canon. You can also get very cheap manual focus lenses to go with your kit lens to mess around with different focal lengths. I thought you were already set on that Rebel but if you are thinking of waiting then that opens up the possibility of just getting something other than a Rebel too.
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Mar 20, 2017 04:15
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Fuji is really not cheap feeling at all - I started using fuji bodies with the X100 so I don't know about anything before that but the bodies are really high quality and the lenses feel fantastic since they use a lot more metal than other brands (like with Canon you will usually be getting plastic)
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Mar 20, 2017 19:21
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InFlames235 posted:That makes sense - they do look pretty legit on Amazon. I gotta say, buying my first real camera has lead to a lot of decision paralysis. So many options, I am honestly torn on what to do. I know the feeling from both camera and music purchases. If it helps at all, I used to shoot Canon and also Sony mirrorless and the only Fuji I had when I was shooting those was the X100. But I switched directly and suddenly to Fuji because of how good the X100 was and how awesome it felt to use. I sold all my Canon gear (I had a 5D, 24-70 2.8 and 70-200 2.8 so it was not cheap gear) and jumped to Fuji and I was glad that I did basically right from the start. I moved to an X-T1, which is right in your price range now although it was new and their best body at the time, and even though I missed full frame for a little while the user experience was just so much better with Fuji that I now have no regrets (having a ton of lenses helps). If I were starting out now, and also when friends are asking, I would totally start on a Fuji. The image quality is just really impressive from basically all of their lenses, the bodies and lenses feel great, I love the external controls (and this was actually one of the biggest reasons I switched initially) and it can be as small and light or heavy as I want it to be because of the tiny and superb f2 wr lenses they have or I can get my big dick 100-400 on it with the battery grip if I feel like having a big heavy camera again. Your uncertainty makes me want to get in the mode of telling you why Fuji is so awesome because it is like a public service getting people into Fuji. Yes other camera makers also make great cameras but literally the only reason I would say not to get Fuji is if you want full frame for some reason. If you are already buying a crop body, though, and the lenses you are getting are crop lenses (which are definitely not as good from brands like Canon - they just don't care about their crop lens lineup because they know that so many will just want full frame lenses...so investing in crop lenses you will need to start over from scratch if you do go to full frame) there are just not many reasons to suggest anything else unless you have a compelling reason to do so. I do agree though that waiting is bad because the longer you wait, the longer you aren't taking pictures. I mean, don't rush into it and do make an informed decision, but at some point just trust your gut and go for whatever just so that you can start shooting and get into the slippery poo poo filled money lined rabbit hole that is photography. If you want any Fuji info then come on over to the mirrorless thread. It is basically the Fuji thread except for some m4/3 chat. You have some good options available at the price point you are looking at.
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Mar 21, 2017 03:28
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Congrats! That is much better than the T6 so good job.
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Mar 21, 2017 04:54
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You are now as good as anyone else here and don't need any help
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Mar 23, 2017 04:51
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torgeaux posted:"As good?" Ok, better. I didn't want to blow his head up too much
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Mar 23, 2017 05:39
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If you don't sell your car to get the best camera possible then your cat pictures will never win any awards I'm sorry to say.
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Apr 21, 2017 05:39
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Helen Highwater posted:Excellent! Now go and take a lot of desaturated pictures of car parks and lone chairs juxtaposed with industrial plumbing. Be sure to use selective color - only the chair should not be black and white.
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Jul 1, 2017 10:06
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torgeaux posted:What if the chair IS white? Eh, what about then? Makes you think and definitely the basis for some ART
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Jul 2, 2017 07:47
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Do I get achievements or points for Dutch angles and selective color in camerasim pro? Is there any pvp? Tia
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Jul 6, 2017 23:16
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Yeah, generally speaking the 24 is going to get a lot more use. There’s a reason that many people don’t ever take a 35mm equivalent off of their camera. That said, the two lenses I use the most on my x-t2 are the 24 1.4 and 56 1.2 so I probably use them both equally. When I was starting to get into digital photography I just had a kit lens and a 50mm that I adapted and I did like it because it taught me about learning how far to stand from my subject since you usually had to move back a bit to get what you want and since I was taking a lot of pictures of my then new kid I appreciated the bokeh and fairly useful focal length for portraits.
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Oct 16, 2017 06:32
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That “Adobe Photoshop” writeup started out reasonable and got more and more ridiculous and laughable as it went on. I like that they think they can stop people from saying “I photoshopped this image” or “I used photoshop for this image” and to correctly say “I edited this image with Adobe Photoshop”. Good loving luck.
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Oct 17, 2017 18:40
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You can also easily get *four* ways to control your camera by using Fuji and use exposure compensation, iso, and shutter speed knobs as well as an aperture ring like god intended (plus a dial so I guess five).
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Nov 14, 2017 13:34
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I have friends who (usually after having a kid) asked me what I thought about whatever Rebel or entry level dslr their mom friend suggested because she is a professional photographer now (which is sadly sometimes true) who does family shoots around their neighborhoods. So although I don’t say don’t get them, I bring my old NEX5n and Fuji bodies next time to show them and they are always shocked at how small they are and are surprised that my pictures look like I am using a dslr because so many people just equate good “professional looking” photos with dslrs. And all of them have ended up with mirrorless cameras. All except one stays with the kit lens but still, they carry them everywhere because they can be put in a purse and are really superior to entry level dslrs. There is really no advantage to an entry level Canon or Nikon over a similarly prices Fuji now that the autofocus has caught up with mirrorless bodies, and although I don’t think Sony is still quite as good as Fuji with crop sensor cameras in some ways, and dslrs do have advantages over mirrorless bodies if we are talking across all price points, when talking about someone getting into photography I don’t see any real benefits for that person to get a big bulky Canikon body that will not be brought out of the house as often as a mirrorless. And with Fuji you also get vastly superior out of camera jpgs that are so good that many photographers who know how to and are comfortable shooting raw still use the OOC jpgs.
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Nov 15, 2017 02:51
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President Beep posted:Yeah, but all of those “cameras” you mention lack character. Yeah you can’t really match the look of an image made with a pentaprism and the feedback of that mirror slap vibrating through your hands.
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Nov 15, 2017 04:59
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SimplyCosmic posted:Based on my shopping research so far, I can appreciate the benefits for mirrorless compared to DSLRs for non-professional photography when looking at the $1000 plus market. I'm not as convinced on the middle ground in the $500-$650 range though. Thanks to some Nikon insider discounts I should be able to get the D5600 w/18-55mm and 70-300mm Lenses for $640 plus tax. Mirrorless has come a long way - IQ was good at the time on NEX cameras but usability was a bit of a dumpster fire. My daughter uses my old 5n and I have a couple friends who got NEX cameras after seeing me use them, the size and the results I got but they all use them with the kit lens on full auto. You can get an X-t1 for around that price and that is a hell of an improvement over an NEX 3. That Nikon has a good sensor though and you will go over that price getting lenses for the Fuji. You could also sell the long lens and get a prime for the Nikon so it does sound like in terms of price it would be hard to beat that deal.
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Nov 19, 2017 03:02
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akadajet posted:Man. Sony churns out new bodies so quickly. At least with Canon I know I won't have buyers remorse for like 4 or 5 years before the next camera comes out. With only marginal improvements. I’ve said it a lot in the mirrorless thread but that’s why I left Sony, ultimately ending up with Fuji who actually supports their bodies rather than just churning out new ones. I guess that is a plus for some people who like the feeling of having the newest thing since they can then buy the newest thing every 6 mo this to a year when the next So y body comes out but that is a big turnoff for me. Meanwhile Fuji puts out killer updates regularly for their bodies, fixing problems, improving and adding features.
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Dec 9, 2017 00:17
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akadajet posted:https://www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/about/newsroom/press-releases/press-release-details/2017/20170420-C-Log/20170420-C-Log So newly bought cameras come with it and they are charging 99 bucks for people who already got the camera to upgrade it? That is bullshit unless I am missing something.
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Dec 9, 2017 01:09
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You have to get creative with a 50 on a crop body indoors but you can still get great results. I use my 56 1.2 all the time indoors and it and the 23 1.4 ar the two lenses I use the most on my Fuji. It might not be as versatile as a 50 on a full frame but honestly 50 on a full frame gets pretty boring (even though I have the 35 f2 which is 50mm equivalent I rarely use it) so if you leave the 50 on for a while you’ll find creative ways to use it even in limited space.
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Dec 30, 2017 19:38
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The x100 is one of the best cameras ever made and other than not having a zoom (which is a plus to some) it blows everything about the Sony out of the water.
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May 4, 2018 23:58
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My mains experience with weather sealed cameras is from Fuji - both the X-T1 and X-T2. I was skeptical and overprotective at first but I ended up subjecting them to pretty much everything except total immersion in water and they are fine. Even with non weather sealed lenses I felt fine in moderate rain or snow but in heavy rain I did stick to the weather sealed lenses. I would imagine that not all weather seals are created equal though so I’d do some research on whatever brand you choose to get some info on what to expect, and particularly with non weather sealed lenses and how wet you could expect them to get without problems. They do make little rain bags for cameras and if you google it you can find how to make your own out of baggies. Not an elegant solution but it is something.
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Jul 7, 2018 21:04
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How do you feel about buying used? You would get more camera that way.
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Sep 6, 2018 12:33
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wargames posted:I am 100% ok with buying used, i am planning a trip to climb mount kilimanjaro and want to take a not terrible camera with me, and i will be trying to use it from now till then to get use to it. Price wise i am looking sub $750 I know just buying the body then getting not terrible lens is the way to go. How do you feel about shooting raw, or are you shooting jpg? The Fuji X-T1 is within your budget and I recommend Fuji for a lot of reasons but the jpg output is excellent so for people not wanting to shoot raw and edit that alone makes it a good option.
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Sep 6, 2018 13:36
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President Beep posted:I just learned about how Fuji does their aperture/ISO/shutter speed adjustments and it seems really cool. It especially seems like it'd be a good way to learn the basics of exposure and light budgeting in general. Yeah it really is. Considering most people aren’t learning on manual film cameras these days I think Fuji is the next best way to learn, and better to learn in a lot of ways since you don’t waste film learning.
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Sep 6, 2018 14:12
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wargames posted:The x-t1 seems outside my budget since i am wanting camera + lenses for 750 or less, also the fuji lens seem more up market in cost. Ah, I assumed you were going for a kit lens. A used XT1 is around 400 bucks now and you can grab good deals on used lenses - the 18-55 and body would be within the budget, you could get one f2 prime and the body and probably be within your budget too. Also it’s worth mentioning that the 18-55 is probably the best kit lens out there and calling it a kit lens is almost unfair considering how good it is. Also it has a wider aperture than other kit lenses (2.8-4) rio fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Sep 6, 2018 |
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Sep 6, 2018 16:52
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cptn_dr posted:I bought my first DSLR! It's a second hand Canon 700D. I also picked up a copy of Understanding Exposure. Congrats - that’s a great book to start with. After you get to shooting post in the photo a day thread - it’s not that active anymore but it will make you learn to critique others as well as get critiques. Did you get any lenses yet?
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Oct 10, 2018 07:28
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Cool, that’s good that you have a prime to start with. You might have heard this already but a good idea for new photographers with a kit lens is to go out and stick to 18, 24 and 35mm, treating it like a prime and not zooming at all. They are equivalent to roughly 28, 35 and 50mm focal lengths and it will give you an idea of which might serve you best when you branch out and get a prime in the future since they all excel at different things.
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Oct 10, 2018 09:54
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ExecuDork posted:Please don't do this. It is not at all helpful to keep stirring up this confusion regarding focal lengths. I know what you mean and agree with a lot of it. I think the language of “really a 53mm” is confusing because as you said, it is still a 35. But what is valuable to realize for newcomers is the equivalency because when they hear “35mm is great for street” and then they try one and find it isn’t working for them and isn’t matching up with images they see from others who say they are using a 35mm for street it will get confusing. Multiplying by 1.5 isn’t that hard and although it isn’t magically turning into another kind of lens it will give an equivalent field of view so if they are going to see people talk about 85mm being good for portraits, 35mm being good for street and so on then it is good to know what they can do on their camera to see similar results. But without experience shooting 35mm film or full frame I do think it’s almost impossible to really see what’s happening and that’s why you hear explanations like “x lens is really y lens on a crop sensor”. Same with aperture.
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Oct 11, 2018 19:30
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