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quote:I keep seeing “crop factor” or “APS-C” mentioned. What’s that? Crop factor vs full frame: for 99% of you, absolutely none of this poo poo matters, and run fast and far away from any salesman who tells you different. Why? Because unless your last camera used 35mm film you don't know the difference, you have nothing to compare to. Yes, the crop factor on most intro cameras means that your view will be a little more "zoomed in" than it would on a full-frame camera with the same lens. But unless your other camera is full-frame - and unless you're coming from film it's probably not, because you're reading the newbie thread - what do you care? There are some people who, when mentioning a lens, will say something like "I bought the 100mm macro for my 40D, which of course is actually 160mm with the crop factor." If you hear those words, kick 'em squarely in the nuts because no, it's not. It's 100mm, because if you're shooting a crop-sensor camera, that's your world. It's like pointing out a pretty blue flower and the guy next to you says "Well, technically, to colorblind people it's actually green." Unless you're colorblind, who cares, right? If you have to ask whether or not you need a full-frame camera, chances are the answer is no. Are you doing architectural photography? If not, the answer is no.* By the time you need it, you'll know enough that you don't have to ask. * Do you have enough money that the difference in price ($1-2k) is meaningless to you? Then fine, the answer is yes, go for it. That and architectural photography are really the only times a newbie would want to dive into full-frame.
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# ¿ Feb 13, 2013 23:19 |
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# ¿ May 2, 2024 17:13 |
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alkanphel posted:Most just buy it because they believe (rightfully) that it will make their photos sharper but then they realise it's an added thing to carry around and they didn't want to spend on the lightest carbon fibre ones and it just stays in the storeroom forever after that. And speaking of tripods, it's tempting to think you can be smart and save money by buying a cheaper tripod from a great brand: you can't. Or maybe you can, but I certainly didn't. drat thing holds exactly as much camera and lens as I owned at the time, now it'll barely hold my body alone, forget the lenses. The quick release is plastic, and trust me when I say that that poo poo'll make you nervous real quick. Either A) spend $30 for whatever walmart's selling (and I highly recommend A when you're just starting out, because I promise, that love you feel in the beginning for your tripod wears off fast), or B) spend the money and buy something strong enough to last you past the equipment you own now.
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# ¿ Feb 14, 2013 23:46 |
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rcman50166 posted:What are you guys doing that you never use tripods? I use mine when I go past 200mm, when I do macro, Eegah posted:I've had descent results using a business card to bounce a flash upward, apart from the fact that it blinds me every time even if I'm looking through the viewfinder.
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# ¿ Feb 15, 2013 17:52 |
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Has anyone ever been to one of Bryan Peterson's seminars? I went once, and he mentions - over, and over, and over - this flash that he recommends for beginners because it has around 90% of the functionality of the good ones, but at something like $50. Fully manual. It could've been him just recommending it because he's paid to, but I got the feeling he was being honest. I can't remember what it is, but if someone's seen him and knows it, it might be a nice addition to the OP. I remember it being some no-name brand I'd never heard of. Edit: after some googling, I think it was the LumoPro LP160, but it looks like they've discontinued it; there's one for sale on ebay, starting at $80. So nevermind, I guess.
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# ¿ Feb 15, 2013 18:03 |
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Mr. Despair posted:Get a yongnuo, it sounds like what you want. I have the 560ii and its a really nice all manual flash for the money.
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# ¿ Feb 15, 2013 20:07 |
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Did the standard 17-50/2.8 (not VR) get significantly improved over the past few years? I paid $400 for mine on amazon back in 2008, now it's selling for $500 and the only difference seems to be the addition of a few more nonsensical acronyms in the name. XR Di-II LD SP versus Di-II LD. If they're basically the same lens, keep an eye out for the older version because they're selling about $150 cheaper than the newer version. Edit: Just looked it up, apparently in the newer lens XR stands for "Extra Refractive Index Glass" (means it's shorter) and SP stands for Super Performance (oh, so now we get the super performance). Correct me if I'm wrong, but in an entry/mid-level lens I'd have a hard time justifying the $150 difference between this and the older version, and an even harder time justifying the extra $300 for VC.
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# ¿ Feb 20, 2013 18:38 |
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CrushedWill posted:That was going to be on the list of my follow up questions, i.e. what kind of reputation does the Canon refurbs have? Sounds like they are a good bet
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# ¿ Feb 27, 2013 00:52 |
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I'm selling something in SA Mart that might be appropriate as a first DSLR, but I don't wanna link it in this thread if that's gonna be a problem. Anybody got a problem?
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# ¿ Mar 18, 2013 02:27 |
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Not to mention, it's drat near impossible to take a photo of something under normal restaurant lighting and have it be anywhere near appetizing, and that goes double if you're using instagram filters on it. "Check out this delicious meal I'm about to eat - gaze upon its yellowish, stale beauty as I work my "Valencia" magic on it!" Mmmm...pasta! (above picture is tagged #delicious, #OliveGarden, and #foodie, which ought to be a crime in itself) If I owned a restaurant, that would be my number one reason for banning cameras: the resulting photos are more likely to scare away customers than bring them in.
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# ¿ Mar 18, 2013 21:44 |
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FISHMANPET posted:I'm looking to take some risque pictures of my wife, and I'm not sure where to start.
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# ¿ Apr 12, 2013 20:43 |
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ExecuDork posted:The most important feature, bar none, of any camera is that you WANT TO HOLD IT IN YOUR HANDS. By all means, if you get the chance to handle a camera before buying it, do so, and if it just feels "off" compared to others you've picked up, then trust your gut and move on. But there's no Ollivanders: Makers of Fine
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# ¿ Aug 27, 2013 21:48 |
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ExecuDork posted:Fair point, I like to overemphasize the ergonomics point because so often I see people (not so much here, but other places on the web, especially Facebook) getting obsessive about long lists of features and counting megapickles and spinning irrelevant anecdotes about their uncle's opinion about some bridge camera from 8 years ago. ExecuDork posted:It's pretty hard to buy a bad camera anymore, I think.
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# ¿ Aug 28, 2013 16:14 |
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Casu Marzu posted:Edit: poo poo, I forgot about the night I got drunk and bought Reich's Nikonos, and I ended up getting a box with that, a pic of his junk, and a jar of lube. Best box ever.
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# ¿ Aug 30, 2013 18:10 |
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ExecuDork posted:- Turn off the beeps. All of them. Nobody else needs to know you've achieved focus confirmation. ExecuDork posted:- Turn off the flash. No, try again - make sure it's actually loving turned off and WILL NOT pop up because the camera thinks its little GN-13 pop-up will be able to correctly expose both the lurking-in-shadows presenter and the big PowerPoint screen from 20 metres away.
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# ¿ Sep 9, 2013 15:33 |
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ExecuDork posted:Can you tell us more about these classes? My encounters with descriptions of "Photography for Beginners" classes, never having taken one myself, are mostly about how it was a waste of time and the idiot sitting next to you kept insisting on P-means-Professional while their camera beeps out focus confirmation and other idiocy with every ham-fisted shot.
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# ¿ Dec 4, 2013 19:54 |
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# ¿ May 2, 2024 17:13 |
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Delivery McGee posted:Personally, I shoot RAW, and make a habit of switching to P mode whenever I turn the camera off, just in case. To each his own, of course, but there's something to be said for having a 16gb card that shows only 450 shots left in RAW, but then says "999" as soon as I switch to large jpg.
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# ¿ Jan 22, 2014 21:35 |