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I'm actually curious about that as well, because I'd kind of like to use some of the TC trunk upholstery in my CV. My P71 has been throwing a P0300 every few days, which is the "random/multiple cylinder misfire". Before I throw money at a batch of coils, I noted that I used Motorcraft Nickel spark plugs. Was that a mistake? I seem to recall a general disdain for Motorcraft plugs, even in Ford's own poo poo. They're under 20K miles old at this point.
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Oct 28, 2017 01:28
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Right on. Yeah, there are a couple of decently-rated sets of coils on Amazon, 4.5 stars with 400+ reviews, and 4 stars w/ 600+ @ $30 w/ Prime. Might pick up some NGKs while I'm at it for another $22.
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Oct 28, 2017 05:09
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wolrah posted:Your GM is the newer appearance but it's still pretty much the same car underneath. IIRC the chassis/suspension update was '03. I believe that's correct. Whatever the first year of the Marauder is would be the right year, because the Marauder's 32-valve engine is partly why they did it. edit: 2003 is correct, according to my notes for wheels, etc. I swapped in all the Amazon coil packs. Easy, and everything worked, other than breaking the retainer tabs on 4 more of the wiring plugs. Seemed to run fine, but popped the same P0300 67 miles later. I ordered plugs, but they were not available Prime, so I'll swap those in when they get in. Turns out I used Motorcraft "nickel" (copper) plugs when I did them 20K miles ago, so they could very well be the culprit. Got NGK platinums this time. Same price!
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Oct 30, 2017 16:36
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Huh. My 2005 had the door handles in the panel, and that mechanism, just no actuator rods for that or the locks. For that matter, it didn't have the lock knob, since that's just a plastic bit on the end of one of the aforementioned rods. I got the rods out of a Grand Marquis. Had to chisel and/or gnaw off the damned rivet that the lock rods use as a pivot because I forgot to throw my drill bits in the tool bag. Replaced said rivet with an M6 bolt and nylock nut, I believe, on reinstall. I saw a few of the linkage bundles for sale for stupid money on eBay when I was looking.
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Nov 1, 2017 21:50
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Cross-post from What You Did thread: Changed the spark plugs in the Crown Vic P71. I'm no good at reading plugs, but the old Motorcraft nickel/copper plugs don't look that bad:  They all measured out OK at .054-.056 gap. Spec is .054". Most were at that. Hopefully fixes P0300 code, along with the new coils. Interestingly, the set code that turned on the MIL from my previous post turned out to be the gas cap. Mine has the bayonet-style retainer, and it's surprisingly easy to get it on the tightly, but crooked. It did have a pending P0300 as well, though.
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Nov 2, 2017 23:55
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New coils and plugs (probably more the plugs, if I'm honest, since they were 20K mile copper plugs) seems to have fixed my P0300 code. Several hundred miles over the weekend with no CEL or pending code.
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Nov 6, 2017 16:58
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Arrived and installed! While I was in there, I found the original power window switches zip-tied to the inner door, and installed them. I now have fully functioning doors and windows. It's a real car! reposting from the WDYDTYRT thread: Darchangel posted:I think that the way that the actual handles interface with the mechanism is clever - it doesn't require either popping the inside handle through the door panel, or disconnecting rods.
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Nov 9, 2017 23:10
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That’s weird. Cop cars can be fun to figure out what the outfitter hacked up. I got lucky with mine in that it never had a lot in it, apparently. Only one hole in the roof, and they appear to have actually used the Ford provided power plug. I’ve not found any jacked wiring yet. I do still have Xenon strobes (not connected) in the original taillights (no longer on the car, I got LED assemblies), and had holes for same in the front side markers, also since replaced.
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Nov 10, 2017 17:44
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Well, the 2004+ CV is basically a coilover, not really a strut. I've heard that the springs are pretty stout, since they are so short and on a fairly short lever arm, so be prepared for that. It doesn't have to turn, and it's basically mounted like a shock, so the strut top is a lot less complicated that a McPherson, and doesn't have near as much rubber in it. You can get just the top bushing for cheap, rather than replacing the whole top. The strut top is just a chunk of stamped and welded steel with studs. A complete assembly with spring is only about $60 (each) more than the strut itself on Rock Auto, so I guess it's how much is your time worth. I'd expect the springs to be fine at 165K. I've not done mine yet, so no experience, I'm afraid. I'd like to get 2" lower springs for mine.Oddly enough, my struts and shocks seem to be fine @ 175K miles. I wonder if maybe they were replaced some time in it's service life? I just did the struts on my wife's Kia, and they were dead at 130K. If it were me with your car, I'd probably do the struts, probably KYB, and a top bushing replacement. Forsome reason, the Gabriel, KYB, and Moog bushings are listed under the "Strut Mount" section on Rock Auto, while the Sachs is actually under "Strut Bearing".
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Dec 12, 2017 16:22
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Huh. Fiddled with the vac hoses and unplugged, inspected (meaning I eyeballed it, and blew on it like a Nintendo cartridge), and replugged the electrical connector on the EGR module, CEL hasn't come back since, and no pending codes so far, after about 50 miles of driving. Here's hoping.
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Jan 2, 2018 15:17
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bigtom posted:
What’s this now? I don’t have the EATC in my P71, but it blows air out of the dash vents no matter what setting, as well as the selected orifice. I looked and the actuators are definitely working, and the blend door shaft is turning. I figured that either the door flap was not positioned on the shaft correctly, or the seals on the air door(s) were shot. For the time being I just manually close the dash vents, but a little air still leaks through. Not a real problem except the most convenient place for my phone is right in front of the left center vent. Gets a bit warm with the heater running.
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Jan 3, 2018 14:58
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:I installed an avital alarm in my 08 (with switching ground relay pack for the door lock solenoids) solely so I could have keyless entry. gently caress keyed entry, especially in an old cop car where there's a separate key for the ignition, driver's door, and trunk (and where there's no key for the passenger door). Easy to add a relay to pop the trunk, too, which I did. Only had to open the driver's door, as I apparently have a unicorn cop car that has a power driver's seat (but manual passenger seat) and tapped off of the seat switch for constant 12v supply. The entire alarm kit tucked into the gap between the doorframe and panel. Put an Omega Max full-on remote start alarm on mine, because I had one I pulled out of my wife's Astro when we traded it, and we haven't had an automatic fuel injected vehicle since, until the Vic. Even if I don't use the remote start feature, it's got raaaaaaaaaaaaaange. And I do use the remote start, because LOL Texas summers. I put at least a basic keyless entry alarm on everything now. Yes, the Corolla will be getting one. I'm kind of sold on Omega products - they've been good to me, but I've got an Audiovox alarm on my '79 RX-7 that's been working since, uuuuuuh, 1996? when I worked at a car audio place. Tough little box. Of course they don't make it any more. It's not field-programmable, code rolling, but reliable.
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Jan 31, 2018 01:35
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Huggable Bear King posted:If anyone is looking to rust proof the trouble spots on your panther then check out this video. Papyrus font. Will not watch. (Kidding. Not a font nazi.) I suppose this will work to prevent rust. Will probably stop or help to stop rust if it's not too advanced. I'm in Texas, so rust isn't nearly as big a problem, though we still get the leaves thing eating fenders (my '70 Cutlass got that particular cancer in the front fenders and in front of the rear wheels - dirt holding water in that case, or possibly junk at the bottom of the side window). My knowledge of rust treatments is therefore much less advanced. Personally, I covered those areas with POR15, and also let it run down the inside of the rockers. That stuff is tough when dried. Not as cheap as mineral oil or ATF, but still fairly cheap. It also does not have much of a shelf life once opened, which is why I buy it in a 6-pack of little (4 oz.?) cans.
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Feb 8, 2018 22:32
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boxen posted:Awesome, thanks! I watched the video and was kind of wondering why he didn't move the jack stands out from under the axle and let the axle droop for more clearance. I'll have to check a wiring diagram, I wonder if there's a spot where I can disconnect the sending unit and put a potentiometer in, to verify the problem isn't with the gauge/wiring. I ended up just purchasing an FSM in PDF from from an eBay vendor. That said, the FSM does not include the wiring diagram. That's a separate book. I have a physical copy of that for my 2005. I will try to remember to look at it for you.
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Apr 19, 2018 17:29
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boxen posted:My car's a 2004, and the dipstick it has is 21" long (just the metal part), and has a 45 degree twist right at the end. Can anyone else compare this to theirs? I'll order a replacement from rockauto in the meantime, and I'm hoping that fixes it. I’ll try to remember to measure mine (heh) when I get home tonight.
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May 3, 2018 14:36
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Darchangel posted:I’ll try to remember to measure mine (heh) when I get home tonight. Just measured the dipstick on my 2005. You're dead on @ 21":   edit: I do have to give it a little twist and wiggle part way down to get it in (what part of that sentence *can't * be made innuendo...) Darchangel posted:
According to the 2005 wiring diagrams, there's connector C443 at the "Fuel Tank Unit" comprised of the ful level sender and fuel pump. Pin5, yellow/white. C433 is at "Vehicle underbody rear", which appears to be above the fuel tank from the locator diagram. From there it goes to C213 in the driver's kick panel, then C2220a, which is the instrument cluster. Looks like C213 is your best bet, and fairly easy to get to. Literally right by your feet, behind the plastic panel where the hood release is. C213 is towards the bottom (there are several connectors in there). 18 pins. pin 10, still a yellow/white wire. Connect a pot there, with the other leg connected to ground, and you should be able to test the gauge. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 04:03 on May 4, 2018 |
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May 4, 2018 03:57
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boxen posted:Crawled under the Lincoln last weekend, didn't notice anything strange anywhere that I could see. I was able to get the dipstick fully inserted by putting my had around the dipstick to prevent it from bending and just shoving it in ( I’m betting that’s the caliper shifting. Could be something else, but it fits. Mine does something like that from time to time, but I haven’t looked at it too closely. It should have a steering lock. My 2005 P71 does, and if anything didn’t have that sort of feature, I’d expect it to be a cop car. For example, the P71s don’t have coded keys.
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May 17, 2018 21:19
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), and that seemed to work fine, no weird noises afterward and the oil looks to be both at the correct level and clean. The dipstick tube had a sticker still on it near where it entered the block, so maybe it was replaced at some point?
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Well, crud. My wife came back in after leaving for work saying that the Crown Vic isn't shifting. She gets up to about 30 and the engine just races. I take it out for a test drive, and sure enough, it goes 1-3, then the engine just revs when it tries to engage overdrive. No codes or CEL (well, there was, but that was for the fuel pressure sensor which occasionally throws out a high signal. There was nothing related to transmission.) I'm about to go research it, but is this a common issue? Some solenoid or another not working right? It's clearly releasing the other gears and not engaging 4th. Fluid level and color is fine, no bad odor. If this requires pulling the transmission, I'ma let someone else do that. I'm tired dragging crap out from underneath cars on jack stands.
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Jul 11, 2018 14:52
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Answering my own question, it looks like this is the problem: https://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=206226&Number=2896798#Post2896798 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpX6pec_F2k https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FvGRnUe7_E The pan gasket should be reusable, and I'd guess that the valve body gasket is, too, if it's not fsck'd up when removed, so should just be out the snap ring, filter (because why not - you're in there), and fluid (which is apparently the most expensive part.)
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Jul 12, 2018 23:35
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Mine says “not a cop “ on the license frame. Insufficient? Most filter kits come with a new gasket, but probably not as good as OEM. OEM one looks like it’s about $20. I’m considering the drain plug pan from Dorman, but realistically, I don’t plan on being in there that often. Still, it’s only like $30. Or I can just install one of the add-a-plug kits.
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Jul 13, 2018 15:50
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As posted in the "what did you do to your ride" thread, the snap ring and snap ring parts extraction appears to be a success. I hate that snap ring and every engineer, bean counter, and salesperson associated with it, though. The write-ups and videos I watched (only a few, really) failed to mention the 8 check balls and another loose thing that live in the valve body. Thankfully, I turned it over in a drip pan, so nothing was lost, and I own a copy of the factory service manual that helpfully points out where they all go. I guess I did it right. There were no parts left over, it shifted fine all the way to 4th (confirmed by reading the proper DTC,) and didn't make any untoward noises that it didn't already make. AFTER I added NINE QUARTS of $7/qt. Mercon V... Thirsty bitch.
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Jul 16, 2018 23:13
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I thought the Dorman intake is only really an improvement for the earlier cars that still had the plastic coolant crossover? For switched to the aluminum crossover at some point. Earlier on the P71s than the civilian models, but I think they all got that eventually. An additional thing to look at: make sure that all the poo poo works. Service outfitters are famous for butchering the wiring, even with the OEM pigtails specifically for them to tie into. Just make sure all your exterior lights and such work. If the dome light doesn't work, there's programming (or a jumper on earlier cars) for disabling/enabling that, and there's a plug to disable the rear power door lock switches as well. Good news is that P71s are heavy duty everything, generally speaking, and pretty much sledgehammer simple. The cop models didn't even have to deal with Passlock, VATS, or whatever Ford called their electronic coded keys.
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Jul 19, 2018 18:10
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Ah, I see. There's still plastic in the water path on that design. I want to say mine is aluminum all the way to the head, but I can't verify that at the moment. It hasn't been an issue so far, thankfully. That bloody damned OD servo snap ring, though. That pissed me right off. I hate dealing with messy fluids everywhere (she said...)
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Jul 20, 2018 23:32
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Luxrage posted:I ripped up the moisture barrier during the troubleshooting and deciding to remove the whole thing. Problem is, I think they put this on a little too soon after painting because taking it off took off some of the paint! Work's making me do a full shift of overtime tomorrow, but this Friday I'll goof off the residue and throw some paint on top of it. I don't think I'm going to find a replacement moisture barrier, but I was seeing some people use strip-caulk and 12mil plastic to make replacement barriers, so I might go that route and then put the door back together. I'm so glad I finally have a garage to work on this stuff! I've just been using heavy plastic sheeting and tape and/or caulk similar to the butyl used to install windshields. Until I run out of it, the plastic used in the giant bags that come on a new mattress has been perfect.
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Aug 17, 2018 22:43
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A Squire autocrossing would be hilarious. One time, one of the regular’s vehicles was unavailable, so he autocrossed a rental 2000s FWD Monte Carlo. It was epic as it wallowed all over the course with its super soft base-model suspension and budget tires. Added hilarity for him signaling every turn.
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Aug 23, 2018 17:43
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I did that to move a power seat to get to the mounting bolts to get it out (was snagging carpet for my cop car with rubber flooring). Always carry a length of speaker wire in my kit, but in a wrecking yard there’s tons of wiring to plunder.
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Sep 6, 2018 17:23
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boxen posted:
This is a job for... 3D printing!
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Sep 6, 2018 20:02
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Drove the Crown Vic to Austin for business (annual departmental "camp".) Got 20.7 MPG out of it, almost entirely highway. 60-80 MPH on cruise control whenever possible. *Almost* made it there and back on one tank. Had to stop in Alvarado (about 40 miles from home) to fill up. 366 miles on 17.7 gallons. Probably could have made it (20 gallon tank) but I really had no desire to chance being stuck on the side of the highway.
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Sep 10, 2018 16:22
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The electrode is almost certainly from being banged around outside of the engine. I'd agree that if there isn't aluminum on the threads, it just wasn't tight and worked itself out over time. Put a new one in (or that one as a test - you can probably fix the electrode with a gapping, tool, even) and see if it will tighten up satisfactorily. Don't forget anti-seize!
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Sep 24, 2018 18:23
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Fender, are you sure it’s third and above, and not just OD? How does it drive with the OD off? I ask because you may recall my adventure with the OD servo snap ring a few months ago. A chunk of the snap ring breaks off and gets jammed in the OD actuating valve in the valve body. The trans shifts out of third, but doesn’t shift into 4th, so just freewheels.
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Nov 10, 2018 21:55
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That doesn’t sound like the snap ring/jamming issue I had. Mine was a-ok except for OD. Turn off OD and it drove like an older 3-speed Auto. No other weirdness. Sounds like you do indeed have a different issue. Transmissions for Panthers should be cheap. They used it in almost everything V8 and RWD. 4R70W if I remember correctly. Maybe by a used one with a warranty rather than rebuilding the existing one if pressed for time. Might be cheaper, too.
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Nov 11, 2018 04:48
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Find a different shop. Ok, you’re saying that it won’t engage 4th, but previously said that it didn’t make any difference if the OD was on or off. It should not even *try* to go into 4th with the OD button in “off.” It just acts like an old school 3-speed Auto with 1:1 top gear. I will say get someone else to do the transmission swap if you can afford it, even if you get used, because it’s a pain. Also, that trans holds like 3 gallons of $5/qt fluid. Good for the trans, hurty on the wallet. I have 2005 wiring diagrams, in dead tree edition, if that’s of any help.
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Nov 13, 2018 00:17
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Fender Anarchist posted:Ok so, that was on Friday night with the ABS/VSS issues. Tried again just now, and yes indeed, when I disable OD it'll stay in 3rd. THAT sounds like the issue I was talking about with the snap ring piece jamming the OD valve. Looks like it affects 2004-2008 4R70Ws and variants. https://www.f150online.com/forums/transmissions/463637-04-f150-lost-overdrive-servo-clip-broke-pics.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpX6pec_F2k https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ikk56cIHL_g Here's pics from mine: https://imgur.com/a/56O5hkw I did a right up either in my own thread, or in "what did you do to your car today."
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Nov 13, 2018 01:00
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It's a friggin' boatload of fluid. I made a heck of a mess. If I ever take that pan off again, I'm installing a drain plug.
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Nov 13, 2018 18:16
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Fender: just in case you don't see it in the chat thread:Fender Anarchist posted:Boutta go get my face all covered in hot tranny fluid!
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Nov 15, 2018 17:06
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Fender Anarchist posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ikk56cIHL_g That’s handy. I had the factory service manual, but it was surprisingly annoying to find the torque specs and tightening sequence. Edit: that’s weird, I just watched that guy’s video on the Ford EGR valve yesterday.
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Nov 15, 2018 20:02
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Fender Anarchist posted:So I had to drive my car around today and it occurred to me, does the lockup clutch engage with overdrive disabled? Am I potentially loving up my converter by driving around like that? I got paranoid and did the rest of my driving in a very burn-and-coast style to avoid cruising, am I overthinking it? No, it doesn’t lock up, and no you’re not hurting anything. There’s a bit more heat generated, but on. Your cop car, it won’t be a problem. The transmission is designed to have the OD turned off when towing, for example, or going up steep grades, if I’m remembering the owners manual correctly. Should be fine. Heck, check the owners manual and see what it says. They are available online.
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Nov 16, 2018 04:00
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Fender Anarchist posted:Forscan I really don't know if this is a joke, or someone was so lacking in self-consciousness that they names a program "foreskin." J Corp posted:Hey, can anybody recommend a good head unit for 2003+ panthers? I ordered this: You can get a name-brand Carplay/Android Auto head unit for $400. The one you linked seems pretty feature packed, though. I am intrigued. I like the Wi-Fi dashcam add-on.
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Nov 17, 2018 00:03
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Fender Anarchist posted:Alright it seems like the fan blows nice and strong when the car first turns on, then gradually gets weaker, then eventually stops blowing completely. In my experience digital modules do not fail this way, so I've gotta be looking at a fan that's somehow marginal and dies as it heats up, right? I've already replaced the module, no change in behavior. Yeah, that sounded like bad bearings/gummed up lube to me. Should be easy to find a good replacement in the wrecking yard. They actually don’t fail often, just test before you leave the yard.
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Nov 20, 2018 18:28
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Fender Anarchist posted:Already ordered a replacement off Amazon for $120. The only LKQ that shows one in stock was over on like the gulf coast. Frankly the time saved with Amazon vs junkyard hopping while actively nursing a car to keep it from overheating is worth the extra $40 vs junkyard price. As long as it’s as good as OEM, yeah. Here, I wouldn’t even bother to look it up. Most yards aren’t online, and the Panther is so common that almost any yard is guaranteed to have one if not many. And there are two “junkyard rows” within easy distance of me, not to mention several Pick And Pulls (which I actually don’t like since they computerized and nickel and dime you for everything.) My favorite yard has a dozen Panther cars at any given time.
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Nov 21, 2018 21:48
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