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tater_salad posted:You need a boskuzuku exhaust, giant roof spider, pizza delivery roof sign, old taxi light housing or something so that they know you aren't a cop. T1g4h posted:Hmm, might just be an option I don't know about. My former Texas highway patrol car has cruise control. And a real backseat.   14", have you noticed any craziness with the wiring yet? Mine was competently returned to stock when it was sold out of service, but I've heard horror stories of retired city cop cars with quick and dirty equipment installation/removal jobs. Like the one guy whose dome light comes on when he hits the horn button.
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Mar 17, 2013 15:26
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:Nothing works incorrectly but I've got gigantic harnesses out the rear end going to nowhere in the trunk and under the dash. quote:Anyone know if Carfax works on retired cruisers for shits and giggles? Did for mine. Apparently it had the rear axle and one wheel replaced at one point. I want to know the story behind that. Probably boring -- I think there was a recall on the '03 differential -- but given that they replaced the axle and wheel at the same time, I'm imagining the trooper whipping it over the median and leaving a half-shaft behind on a stump. On the misfire issue: I get a recurring CEL because the #7 and #8 spark plug holes fill up with water. Not sure if it's a leaky intake gasket or the cowl issue mentioned, but if I pull the coils, dry out the bores, and grease up the boots it goes away for a few months until the water works its way in again. 14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:Also a verbal warning about tint limits, I'm like one degree below normal. They were checking the car out already when I was at the pawn shop and decided to light me up on leaving. Then he put the little density meter over the edge of the window, pushed the button, and said "Nope, right on the limit. Have a nice day!" As near as I can figure he just suddenly remembered he had the tool and wanted to try it out. Or I'd met him at a wreck or something when I worked for the newspaper and he was just loving with me. Edit: P71 tip: if your dome lights don't come on when you open the front doors and you want them to (or vice versa), there's a single-wire blue plug under the glovebox near the big accessory harness. Either plug it in or unplug it to change the mode of the dome light. If your dome lights don't come on when you open the back doors, the previous owner didn't know about that plug and probably just cut the wires. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Mar 23, 2013 |
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Mar 23, 2013 03:27
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kimbo305 posted:Can anyone ID these alternate small-diameter hubcaps? I've only ever seen them on my P71 -- everyone else has the flatter kind. leica posted:The left one looks like the offset is further out so it's from an 03+ Vic. To me the offset still looks a bit deep for an '03+, mine barely have any dish to them. And the holes on all the '03+ wheels I've seen are fewer, more oblong, and go closer to the rim. I think it's a truck wheel.
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Mar 24, 2013 06:24
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BrokenKnucklez posted:If you do a 5.4L engine, you may have hood clearance issues. It's been done. And yes, it has a K&N filter sticking out of the hood like an A-6 Intruder's refueling probe. kimbo305 posted:A P71 speedo is calibrated to 140mph. Not sure if it can reach that speed, but it's calibrated! On the other hand you can probably talk your way out of a minor speeding ticket by asking the cop what all that glue residue and random holes in the dash were for.
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Apr 15, 2013 05:43
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:E: other panther question, why'd they stop doing the front door strips after a certain year? It always reminds me of mk3 VWs missing a chunk of trim. I think it was always an optional delete, in case the buyer's department livery went down past where the trim goes -- it'd gently caress up the graphics if you left the trim on. First GIS result illustrating the reason:  Trim on, note that the graphics don't cover it: 
Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 12:07 on Apr 20, 2013 |
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Apr 20, 2013 12:04
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ExtremeODD posted:On these cars how hard would it be to install a trac lock unit? It's pretty awesome, though. Last time it snowed here in East Texas, P71s were pretty much the only cars on the road (between the cops and my low-man-on-the-totem-pole-at-the-newspaper rear end), so I took the scenic route through downtown to the office, drifting through every intersection. ExtremeODD posted:Makes perfect sense, holding off for now on the swap due to life stuff . However the junkyard has a plethora of random interior bits to mix and match a decent setup. How possible is it to swap in the keypad locking system? (obviously door swapping involved) I really liked it on my old 90 mark vii, so very useful. Anybody ever seen a CNG-powered Crown Vic, or do they only exist to waste another five seconds of my life at the parts store when the guy asks what engine I have? On the other hand, you don't have to know the stock tire size, just tell the guy at the tire shop "I need cop car tires, [model year]" and he knows the numbers to look up.
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May 10, 2013 05:20
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It's questionable in Texas to have the DPS black sides/white upper surfaces. I've seen several Vics with only the white parts repainted in silver, lime green, or blue. It's not a bad look. On the other hand, I've seen ex-DPS Mustangs owned by collectors/nerds in full livery; they just put a trash bag over the lightbar and magnetic covers over the police graphics while driving to and from shows. I've seen pictures of TXDPS cars on the auction block with a squiggle of grey spraypaint down the side, but just yesterday I saw one on the side of the road with a "for sale" sign in the window and stock paint. As for local cops, I don't think they care unless you have the paint of the department you're in the jurisdiction of, though I doubt they'd give you too much extra poo poo vs generic white or black if theirs and yours were a civvie-option single color like Seattle. Louisiana apparently doesn't give a poo poo about paint, given the number of NOLA taxis wearing the city LAPD-style panda scheme with different text on the doors. I've been hassled for driving an all-black Interceptor with (toy plastic) handcuffs hanging from the mirror. I knew I should've gone with the fuzzy bondage cuffs. Though to be fair, the department that pulled me over has had a problem with a guy pretending to be a cop and pulling people over, and my car (along with a thousand others in the area) matched the description. The sheriff's dept that pulled me over has a pretty neat color scheme -- white cars with matte-black bumpers. At least it's different -- most cop cars are either LAPD-style black ends with white doors, or NYPD-style white with blue text. My city cops are currently transitioning between the two. Navy blue with gold text is a close third, and I've seen state cars with the same white top as TXDPS but different body colors. Also there's a Hot Wheels-scale toymaker of cop cars that has a TXDPS Crown Vic, but no store ever has it in stock. I want a miniature of my car in original trim, dammit.
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Jun 7, 2013 14:20
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Splizwarf posted:Those are good money on eBay. Best I could find on their website (I try to avoid their jurisdiction for obvious reasons):  It's not as bad as you expected, but not as good as you hoped. The state has the best possible cop car paint scheme, though: 
Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Jun 14, 2013 |
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Jun 14, 2013 00:02
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I want a Shelby Crown Vic. That bodykit, the new Coyote engine, etc. I think it'd look decent in black. It'd stop me from getting pulled over for looking like a fake cop, at least. In yellow it reminds me of this terrible movie. I think that might be the point of it. Boomerjinks, do you know that guy? I want to see more of the blue and red one behind it.
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Dec 6, 2013 14:37
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You mean the molding at knee level? Be sure and get the bit on the front fenders as well. But it's just glued on, there's no holes under it like the vinyl roof of a box body, so it's easy enough. There was a factory option to delete the molding on the front doors for agencies with big livery: Also, holy poo poo you can get these things from Amazon for $50 a set.  Sure, they're cheapass knockoffs, but at 8 for the price of a single Ford one, it's worth it even if two or three are DOA.
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Dec 27, 2013 05:52
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My #7 and #8 are completely dead. Fuckin' V8 (well, V6 with a two-cylinder air compressor) idles like a Harley, flashing CEL all the time. Still drivable, but slow as balls under 3k rpm or so.
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Dec 27, 2013 06:44
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some texas redneck posted:So tell me again how much you value stuff like oxygen sensors and catalytic converters. I try not to think about them. And I've only driven it in emergencies since they stopped firing entirely.
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Dec 28, 2013 06:29
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Marux posted:
Now I want to rip the molding off of mine. It wouldn't be my first rodeo -- I de-wooded a Jeep SJ Wagoneer once. 12-year-old vinyl is a bitch and a half to remove.
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Dec 31, 2013 02:03
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Yeah, only Carbon and their guaranteed-buyback plan (either selling them on to smaller departments or parting them out for spares) had a chance of keeping former cop cars out of civilian hands. Too bad Carbon was a massive swindle.
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Apr 23, 2014 13:11
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OFFICER 13 INCH posted:I've seen running driving non wrecked p71s for that, and paid less than that for the one in the OP. Look around. Yeah, you can get an abused but still good for another 100k miles ex-city-PD '03 for $2500. Maybe less if you don't mind the dome light coming on when you honk the horn. I payed considerably more for mine several years ago, but it was a Highway Patrol car in really good shape (the wiring isn't butchered) and with relatively low miles/hours.
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Aug 24, 2014 04:03
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SouthLAnd posted:Is this some weird electrical voodoo common to these cars? I only ask because I had an awesome 90's Taurus in which operating the window switches would occasionally make the light in the door panel to activate instead of the windows. Your thing was just some wires in the door with their insulation worn off shorting to each other, or that thing kastein said. The dome light when you honk the horn in a retired cop car is because the inept city mechanics cross the wires when they strip out the cop stuff -- specifically, usually the horn button activates the lightbar and/or siren, and cop cars usually have the circuit that turns the dome light on when you open the doors disabled. Though '03+ (and maybe the previous gen, I forget) P71s have a plug under the glovebox to enable/disable the door-opening lights (and in '07 or so they made it a thing that can be disabled in the computer with a certain button-pushing sequence, both only for the front doors so you can see to stuff the perp in the back), some agencies' mechanics don't know about it or are just lazy and just cut the wires, which leads to problems when they're putting it back to civvie spec. Also, fun fact: every Panther (with the last body style, anyway, and I'm fairly sure including the granny versions and Mercuries) has a +12V wire behind the A-pillar trim on both sides, because it was cheaper to use the same wiring harness on all of them than to run a wire only in the cars with factory spotlight cuts. Handy if you want to permanently mount your GPS in that corner, or a light-up gauge pod on a Marauder, or whatever. Similarly, swapping Marauder headlight/blinker units (I forget the details, but the Marauder headlights are different and cooler) onto a Ford from the same year doesn't require wiring fuckery; the Fords are fully wired for the Marauder lights, they just don't use one of the contacts in the plug.
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Aug 25, 2014 09:06
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The '03+ actually handles pretty well. It's still huge, but you can throw it around a lot more than the older version, in cop spec at least -- the Mercury is probably a lot squishier. I'd go with a Marauder or Interceptor/sport-package Crown Vic if I was going to add power, the regular MGM's a couch on wheels. Edit: Comedy option: Might as well go all the way and put the blower and P71 springs on a Lincoln Town Car. I assume you already have the car, though. Might want to look into getting the springs off a junkyard cop car, whatever the case. And you'll definitely want a certain driveshaft -- I forget the exact years/models it was used on, but the '03 cop car was the last that had the good one. Space Whale posted:I just want to know if it's not bank breaking or a custom job to put on a good supercharger. I'd like a twin screw but if that's too $$$ or requires hood notching I'd just as soon get a high(er) stall torque converter and a centrifugal. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Jan 14, 2015 |
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Jan 14, 2015 21:41
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I think my lighting control module ('03 P71) is shot -- occasionally there's a click behind the dash and the lights flicker or go off, the latter usually fixed by cycling the headlight switch, but sometimes (seems to be when the heater's on "floor", presumably overheating the LCM right next to the heater vent) it clicks and there's no headlights or blinkers for a random amount of time (until it cools off?). I usually leave the heater on "vent" anyway, so that's not THAT bad, but the flickering is annoying. How much does the LCM cost at a junkyard? I also need the radiator fan controller, but it seems to only be sold as the whole unit, fan, shroud, and all.  And, in keeping with the thread title, it still has a misfire on 7 and 8 despite replacing the coilpacks (though it may be that the cheap Chinese replacements -- $50 for 8 on Amazon -- were DOA, I haven't tried swapping them out for others of the new ones). A friend's selling an '03 P71 for $1000 that runs but has an unspecified radiator problem and needs tires to pass inspection. I'm thinking of buying it -- best case, I can fix it for a couple hundred and have my own little fleet of black interceptors, worst case I can cannibalize it to fix mine and then buy replacement parts and get it running as finances allow. Good idea or bad? Almost wishing I'd got a little Honda rollerskate instead, the bigass tires on these things are expensive, and mine needs 'em too -- though I need to look into used; judging from the number of donks I see around here, there are plenty of stock takeoffs to be had.
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Jan 18, 2015 01:23
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Welp, looks like my LCM has finally completely crapped out. No headlights, no lights at all. Well, the turn signals work intermittently. The relay in the LCM clicks constantly when the headlight switch is turned on. It's hard to troubleshoot because the battery has somehow died over the day and a half since the lights stopped working. I tried to start the car to see if that changed anything and nothing happened. Also when I took my multimeter out to verify that it was the battery and not, say, the ignition switch, the meter crapped out the instant I applied it to the battery. Maybe the car is just cursed.
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Sep 18, 2015 02:48
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Huggable Bear King posted:Finally as a pro-tip, you can hold your high beams if you NEED to get home and it's dark, just pull back on the left stalk and keep pressure on it so you're not driving blind. Yeah, that worked for awhile, but even that had crapped out at the time of my last post. I talked my parents into buying me a replacement from Amazon. And then yesterday I got a letter from Ford to remind me of Customer Satisfaction Program 14N01. So if your lighting module craps out, call your local Ford dealer and get it fixed for free. I kinda want to pop the broken one back in, get it replaced under the CSP, and have a spare/try to return the one I bought. Or sell the spare on Amazon/eBay, I guess. Maybe somebody would buy it, but apparently the letter was sent based on registration/title records, so maybe everybody knows about it. On the other hand, maybe there's somebody needing one with over 250,000 miles on a car that has sentimental value. Though I seem to recall hearing of a loophole for them to refuse this sort of extended-warranty work on fleet cars sold out of service -- maybe something about the cop car conversion/unconversion voiding the warranty, or maybe just fleet warranties not transferring? Eh, I suppose it's worth a try.
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Oct 24, 2015 01:36
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kimbo305 posted:How easily can Panthers be lifted, say 1-2"? Let's say my budget is $2000 for the project.
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Jan 1, 2016 07:16
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kimbo305 posted:I thought the Interceptor was lower with stiffer springs? No, it's meant to jump curbs and be loaded down with a bunch of radios and other gear, it's noticeably higher than the granny-spec version when all the cop stuff's taken out*. As for your other question, I don't know from suspension geometry (when I had a Jeep and was looking at lifts, it was leaf springs all 'round), but as a graduate of the "eh, that'll do" school of engineering, an inch or two probably shouldn't gently caress things up too terribly much. 2003 Merc (couldn't find a good pic of a Crown Vic that wasn't a Donk or P71):  2003 P71:  Lookit dat wheel-well gap on the cop car. *An anecdote along similar lines: When one of my coworkers at the newspaper got a police-spec Harley, he asked his buddy the motorcycle cop (who was nicknamed "Radar" long before he joined the force, because he looks like the guy from M*A*S*H) to take it on the dyno for him at a rally. Radar's a little guy, and could just barely hold my coworker's bike up on tiptoe, despite it being the exact same model he had no problems with at work every day, because the one at work was so heavy it was actually two inches lower. CharlieWhiskey posted:Does anyone here have the police trunk organizer? Thinking about getting one for my Marauder but I don't want to lose the ability to put a full size beer cooler in my trunk with a few camping chairs. Also what do you mean by "full size" cooler? The one I think of as full size would fit on top of the organizer with room to spare -- I went out and measured the trunk, it's close enough to 18 inches from the high bits on the edges that the organizer is flush with to the rim under the gasket. And what kind of chairs? Flat folding chairs, you could get one on top of the spare tire and two on top the cooler. The ones that fold up into a cylinder, you could stack three in the space between the cooler and axle hump, and probably wedge some more in on the side if you pushed the cooler all the way to one side. Also, even allowing for the space between cans, that cooler I linked holds like 90+ beers. Maybe as few as 72, if you leave room for ice cubes. If you can't have a party with that, you should either see a doctor and get into detox, switch to hard liquor, or trade the cop car for a pickup. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 08:53 on Jan 1, 2016 |
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Jan 1, 2016 08:40
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Just got another letter on the LCM issue: it's gone from "customer satisfaction program" to no-bullshit NHTSA Recall 15V-861. If it hasn't crapped out yet, they'll be contacting you shortly (when they get more of the modules in stock), if it has, hie thyself to a dealer immediately. If you've already had it done and paid for it, they might reimburse you (though I'm not sure of my chances of getting reimbursed for the third-party one I got off Amazon.)MonkeyNutZ posted:Springs and shocks moved as well IIRC.  )Edit: Darchangel posted:That said, you may be able to interchange just the LSD unit, since they're all 8.8s. Not sure if any of the innards changed. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Feb 3, 2016 |
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Feb 3, 2016 00:34
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I wouldn't be surprised if they refused to do free work on ex-cop cars with butchered wiring. Or if you replaced it yourself vs. having a shop do it. Guess I'll have to call Ford on my next day off and ask. If you know a guy at the dealership, they'd probably let you do the swap yourself, it's literally one bolt and two plugs. Sadly my Ford-dealership-owning family friend retired 15 years ago and has probably been dead for ten. Those of you who haven't hosed with the wiring, let the dealership do it, it's a pain in the rear end to actually get the thing out and especially back in -- I just kinda wedged the replacement up in there instead of sliding it back onto its rail. Edit: gently caress it, it's Ford, they're 24 hours. Apparently they'll pay me, they just need the bit of paper that has the price on it. Also, the guy asked for the VIN, so apparently they're not automatically disqualifying cop cars. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Feb 3, 2016 |
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Feb 3, 2016 00:51
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evilnissan posted:Whats the odds of having a factory LSD in a GM? Surest way to check the axle is to crawl under and look at the little tag hanging off one of the diff cover bolts:  (stolen and rehosted from CVN) It'd be unlikely that a GM would have anything other than 2 73, but a boy can dream. Now I want to go see what mine is, I've forgotten. In other news, I found what may be the ultimate source of my misfiring left bank -- coolant leak where the aluminum crossover meets the plastic. No way to regasket it without pulling the intake  (the bolts, going up from the bottom, are beyond the ken of men with the intake on, y'see)
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Feb 19, 2016 00:39
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leica posted:I had no idea how horrible the side crash test ratings are for Panthers. My wife looked it up on a whim because she loves Vics and has been serious about her next car having good to excellent ratings....Back to the drawing board It kinda got lost in the media frenzy over how they're deathtraps when hit from behind ... by an 18-wheeler doing 70+mph, when the trunk is full of long pointy stuff. The Pinto had a legitimate problem, the Crown Vic not so much. But the statistics made it look bad, when in truth Highway Patrolman Georg, who gets hit from behind by a semi 10,000 times a day, is an outlier and should not have been counted.
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Feb 19, 2016 21:30
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I've still got a V6. The two cylinders nearest the driver (7 and 8? I forget the numbering) aren't firing at all. I've replaced the coils and plugs to no avail. Is it more likely to be the wiring or the ECU itself that's broken? How do I diagnose that?
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Jun 10, 2016 05:12
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Can you test the wires to the coils? And I don't remember the history: are the fuel injectors ok? Got a new multimeter today (old $5 Harbor Freight special crapped out; I got the fancy HF one this time ), so I plan to at least check continuity in the morning (when it's not so fuckin' hot). Where's the other end of the wires? Presumably at the ECU, but where is that?Not sure how to check the injectors, but the car smells of gas after a drive, stronger at the back, so I'm guessing they're working. Also the windows on the passenger side don't work (the front one worked intermittently, then stopped, and the back one stopped working somewhat later). Is there a common failure point for that wiring, or am I damned to tear the entire interior apart trying to find the break?
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Jun 11, 2016 02:31
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CharlieWhiskey posted:As for the COP wires running to the ECU/PCM, the PCM is by the brake pedal (I think). If your new HF meter has long enough wires, you should be able to reach the COP wire and the PCM. Injector wire should be similar. Standard length, but I also picked up a 10-pack of 6" "test leads" with alligator clips on both ends and I have a good bit of wire laying around, so I can extend them. I don't suppose anybody has a pinout for the "distributor" end of the coil wires, since I'm assuming they're broken, I'd like to know which pin it should be, rather than checking 'em all. Also the meter has a frequency setting, so if the wires are good I can see if/how often it's firing! In related news, man, I wish I could find a cheap oscilloscope. Missed out on a free nice '70s one and a $50 ancient from-a-kit one several years ago, still kicking myself for not jumping on that Tektronix before it got thrown away.  Edit: If it is the wires, and I have to run new wires, I kinda want to install a switch to cut the spark and a pair of spark plugs in the tailpipes while I'm at it. It'd solve the "smelling of gas" problem, at least.  Re: the video going on about PCM problems being extremely unlikely, I have a tangentially-related funny story: My dad used to drive an '82 E-150 for work, and one day it crapped out with symptoms of a failed ignition module ('twas the old 5.0L with a distributor, IDK what the box did). I swapped in the spare I had for my '84 Jeep (I'd heard it might fail and replaced it as preventative maintenance since it was only $30), and she fired right up, and continued to chooch for five more years. AMC = "All Marques Combined" -- in '84 they had an in-house engine, generic Dana 44 and 35 (iirc) axles, Ford carb/solenoid/"computer"/AC compressor, Mopar transmission, and the keys were cut from GM blanks. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Jun 11, 2016 |
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Jun 11, 2016 04:15
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Huggable Bear King posted:Anyone else have paint issues? The paint on my roof, rear deck and c pillars is starting to chip and peel. The car is a 2003 with 122k on it, runs great and I've maintained it but I'm trying to decide if it's worth taking it to a professional to fix the paint or if I should sand the bad areas and rattle can it with touch up paint. My '03 has a couple of flaky paint/rust spots on the hood and decklid, but it's not the stock paint (all-black respray over this, idk if done by the flipper or the original owner on selling it out of service -- probably the former, I know they painted the Mustangs decently in-house before auctioning them.) Of course, Fords have had problems with peeling clearcoat on the top surfaces since forever, I thought they'd fixed it but maybe not. Just shoot flat black/flat body color Rustoleum on the panels with issues. Totally not worth having it done professionally. Also if you do flat black, paint the wheels red for the old-school hotrod look. quote:Also what else would any of you drive if you're panther went kaput? I feel like an old man because I hate every new car I see, I honestly don't know what I'd replace my Grand Marquis with when the time came. Nothing drives like it. It was my first choice before the cop car, but my banker balked at $5000 for a 20-year-old car -- but it was owned by a mechanic and was in perfect interior condition (nigh unheard of for a '96 GM product even when new, amirite? ) and already had all the cheap/easy go-fast mods (K&N filter, hockey puck in place of the intake muffler, better exhaust, etc.)Or, if I could afford the gas, some early-'70s Ford wagon or Ranchero with a 460, or equivalent El Camino (the one that looked like a Chevelle, '70-'72-ish?). Or best-case, a first-gen Marauder (a Galaxie 500 with more Lincoln-styled ends), '60s NASCAR style. Preferably a '65 convertible with black paint and black chrome and black leather and every time you try to operate one of these weird black controls that are labelled in black on a black background, a little black light lights up black to let you know you've done it (this is the picture I fell in love with the car over, but this one's in drat SWEDEN and the guy will never sell anyway):  But a coupe will suffice.  Or a white sedan with blue interior, probably better for Texas summers in those days before A/C was really A Thing (ofc, I've had ... most of my cars without A/C either because it wasn't an option or bc the compressor exploded and I couldn't afford the Freon -- my current P71 is black with charcoal interior and no A/C [I've replaced the compressor to have the pulley, but can't afford the charging, and my dad is only licensed for residential systems so doesn't have the hoses for 134a], I can deal with it. I very nearly bought one just like this once, but it was sold the day before I could get the money. It has a name, the Frigidoom, because seriously it looks like a drat refrigerator (and ideally would have a Cammer in it, hence the "doom" bit, but the one I looked at only had a 4v 390):  Also that one was slightly bigger than the '65 Lincoln, amusingly. And the '65 Lincoln is almost exactly the same size as a last-model Panther (like within an inch or three in every dimension, but slab-sided and thin walls so it looks smaller -- I've seen a '64 Lincoln up close at a cruise nite and it seemed huge next to all the other old cars, but driving beside one on the road it seemed smaller than I remembered) Maksimus54 posted:Any ideas what might be causing the transmission not to shift when under heavy throttle? And I don't mean slow to shift, but would stick in first until you got out of it and eased back into it. Could be worse, I used to have a '71 Chevy with the 2-speed OG auto, whatever it was called -- it shifted around 60mph at WOT unless I did the double-tap to force it to shift earlier. Also it had the engine (307 V8) that really didn't like high revs, so always fun wondering if it would poo poo a rod before it shifted. So either something's wrong with the transmission, or you're a wimp and won't stay in it long enough -- apparently the 4.6L OHC can go to 6.5-7k before parts start falling out the sides. And if the transmission is hosed up and won't upshift, you should probs be okay for very inefficient city driving. And if it does shift when you lift, well, it's still workable, that's basically what you have to do with a manual.
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Feb 2, 2017 00:58
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Is it?!?!
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Mar 15, 2017 17:45
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Darchangel posted:The P71s, interestingly, are typically just a bit taller than civilian, supposedly to make traversing curbs and such easier. Partially to ride at normal height/don't bottom out when jumping a curb when loaded down with all the police gear (radios, computers, emergency kit in the trunk, hefty officer, etc..) I know a motorcycle cop who had to stand on tippytoe on the civilian version of his work bike, it was about an inch and a half higher due to not being as loaded down. Obviously less of a problem with cars, but still there.
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Sep 14, 2017 07:57
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Nice, I wish my car came with free ammo.
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May 18, 2018 08:26
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| # ¿ May 7, 2024 18:25 |
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I always wanted to get a pushbar for mine and paint it and the tail panels lime green or something. I've also seen one that kept tje lines of TXDPS livery, but with dark blue where the black was and the white replaced by lime green. It was so hideous it looped back around to badass. Edit: hang fuzzy bondage handcuffs from the rearview.
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Jul 15, 2018 22:26
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