|
It was actually Reaper Kit, not Reaper Bryan, who appeared in the Kickstarter videos (the ones with the hands explaining the pledge levels and add-ons). Bryan was the one who answered questions, wrote updates, and was in all other ways the company "face" during Kickstarter.
|
#
¿
Mar 29, 2013 00:29
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 13:53 |
|
|
Predictably, there are people in the Kickstarter comments complaining that they haven't already received their order, and how Reaper is ripping them off by shipping the simple orders first instead of whatever rubric would get their order in the front of the line. EDIT: And my haul: Vampire x4 $400 Fire Giants x1 $10 Ebonwrath x1 $10 Frost Giants x1 $10 Mind Your Manors x3 $30 There Be Dragons x1 $15 Deathsleet x1 $10 Demons x1 $15 Undead Giant x2 $20 Mythos Monsters x2 $20 Clockwork Dragon x2 $30 Red Dragon x1 $10 Spider Centaurs x2 $20 Fire Giant Warriors x2 $20 Forces Of Nature x2 $30 Frost Wyrm x1 $10 Jabberwock x1 $10 Deep Dwellers x4 $28 Nethyrmaul x1 $25 Hydra x2 $30 Kaladrax Reborn x1 $10 C'thulhu x1 $10 Swamp Things x1 $5 Figure Case x2 $50 Orcapocalypse x1 $25 Starter Paint Set x1 $18 Undead Paint Set x1 $18 IMEF Paint Set x1 $18 Starter Set 2 x1 $18 Kickstarter Sophie x1 $25 Not so much as Captain Invictus, but I don't expect to see them before May. JackMann fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Mar 29, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Mar 29, 2013 00:51
|
|
|
Oh, and while unrelated to the Kickstarter, they've started to prototype their CAV models (think Battletech-style mechs) in Bones. That might be of interest to some folks.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 29, 2013 04:15
|
|
|
They've posted a painted version of Wyrmgear.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 29, 2013 05:51
|
|
|
So, painting Bones. You can apply paint directly to Bones. But it's a bit different from painting a normal model. For the base coat, you do not thin your paints. Think of your basecoat as your primer. It goes on straight from the bottle and then you can thin paints from there. If this just seems wrong to you, you can prime the bones instead. Some people have been painting their Bones that way because they just don't like the idea of an unthinned base coat. Just keep in mind that some primers work a bit oddly on Bones. The Reaper boards has a list of primers that work with the Bones. If no one else does, I'll try and find the list tonight and post it here. If you have to strip the Bones, make sure you use a stripping agent that won't melt the Bones. Simple Green apparently works best for this.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 29, 2013 22:13
|
|
|
It begins
|
|
#
¿
Mar 30, 2013 02:14
|
|
|
Here's the thread. Primers that have been noted to work: Army Spray Primer Gesso Reaper brush-on primer (though it dries slightly tacky, it's almost unnoticeable, and doesn't affect painting) Krylon, Testor's, and GW have all been reported to end up undesirably tacky.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 30, 2013 04:56
|
|
|
Just some food-for-thought. Reaper Bryan just announced on the Reaper boards that their one-click-all-vampire option on their website is going to cost $399 (a 20% discount on buying them individually). EDIT: As far as the giantess goes, I wouldn't have minded it quite so much if it wasn't for the fact that all the female giants are in very passive poses, where the males are in full combat swing.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 30, 2013 16:29
|
|
|
That's pretty much what they've said. They gave their best ballpark estimates of what these were going to cost, and ended up missing on a few. There's even one case where the final figures ended up much cheaper than they anticipated; the owlbear and the griffon will actually retail slightly cheaper than the Kickstarter pledge.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 31, 2013 14:00
|
|
|
moths posted:Yeah, I don't think they were trying to gouge anyone - if anything they left money on the table by underestimating costs in those cases. Yeah. Even in that case, you had to get Vampire in the first place to be able to grab it, and you would have to have gotten several hundred of the set before it would offset the savings from Vampire.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 31, 2013 20:19
|
|
|
Rather, the Kickstarter was to buy the molds for all of the new figures. The fact that they were also able to move production in-house was an unexpected, but welcome bonus. I dunno if the new plastic injection equipment is up and running yet. It's installed, it's there, but I don't know how far they've gone as far as learning to use it, and getting the molds back to them. Remember, all of the molds had to be sent to China to be used to make the current crop. But at least all of the steps are in place now to bring it back to the states.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 31, 2013 22:34
|
|
|
Terrible, or awesome. One of the two.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2013 06:29
|
|
|
Haven't tried plastic cement on them, but I'm not sure how well it will work. I've only used superglue, which works just fine.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2013 20:09
|
|
|
JackMann posted:Rather, the Kickstarter was to buy the molds for all of the new figures. The fact that they were also able to move production in-house was an unexpected, but welcome bonus. Going back to this, Bryan said today that their first mold is arriving this week. So they haven't started making things there yet, but they're getting ready.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2013 20:44
|
|
|
There are still people on the Reaper forums complaining about the Chronoscope figures. I am amused and somewhat baffled by these folks. "My colossal deal on fantasy figures is slightly diluted by non-genre figures!"
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2013 20:49
|
|
|
Pretty much just Reaper-ese. Mostly, it's just to give them a more interesting name than generic future Marine, and also to make it easier to find other minis that look about the same. They might have a number of sci-fi soldiers, but you can be fairly confident that other NOVA Marines will be fairly similar.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 4, 2013 15:14
|
|
|
A couple of things. First of all, some of the people who've received their packages have noticed minor discrepancies. Nothing huge. Just like one mini missing here, two of another. Reaper has promised to make good on this, so just do an inventory of your Bones when they arrive. Second, let's talk about backscatter. Bones are slightly translucent. Light penetrates partway through the plastic when it hits, then bounces back at different angles. The effect of this is to make the Bones look softer than they really are, and it means that details really won't stand out until they've been painted. Keep this in mind when you first get a look at 'em. For the most part, the detail's pretty close to metal, but it looks worse bare.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 5, 2013 18:53
|
|
|
JoshTheStampede posted:So, you mean additional minis, not specific ones missing from Vampire boxes, right? Because god drat am I not looking forward to trying to checklist 250 white models in baggies. Sadly, it's been in the actual Vampire boxes. Someone was missing one mini, and had two of a different mini. As Bryan explained, if the packers in China were 99.95% accurate, that still means over 30,000 errors, or about two per order.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 5, 2013 20:23
|
|
|
Reaper's better about it than a lot of mini companies, but they still pander a lot to the horny fangeeks. Unfortunately, the naked ladies sell.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 6, 2013 04:18
|
|
|
Well, here's a fun case of entitlement. Keep reading this guy's posts throughout the thread. It's an astonishing case of just not getting it.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 6, 2013 18:55
|
|
|
thespaceinvader posted:UK also. PITA because I really would like to know roughly the size of box I'm going to have to carry home from work on the bus... It's about shoebox size.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 7, 2013 19:07
|
|
|
Which is actually kind of awesome. We have people who had absolutely no interest in miniatures now being brought into the hobby. They just need a little civilizing.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 7, 2013 19:40
|
|
|
thespaceinvader posted:Smaller than expected then. Kaladrax is supposed to come in a box about the same size as the vampire box. So yeah, expect a package slightly bigger than that.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 7, 2013 22:18
|
|
|
JoshTheStampede posted:Though that might be his retail box, which the kickstarter pledges won't come packaged that way. No, that's the one they're shipping him in for the KS, according to Bryan. As an aside, my one worry about this is that shipping really will take until June. I'm supposed to be going on an all-expenses paid vacation to Afghanistan about that time, so I'd really like to get mine a little sooner...
|
|
#
¿
Apr 7, 2013 23:05
|
|
|
I did send a message to Bryan last night on the boards about it. I don't expect them to push me ahead of everyone else, but if it looks like it may take them that long, I'd like to see if it's going to be too late to get the address changed.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 7, 2013 23:17
|
|
|
LumberingTroll posted:I wonder how much of a pain it will be to remove their bases and put proper ones on. I always hate those irregular shaped already attached bases. Pretty damned easy. Just take a hobby knife and cut it right off. Just be careful not to damage the feet.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 9, 2013 20:43
|
|
|
The general consensus is that unprimed bones keep paint better than primed metal. There were a few people on the Reaper boards who subjected bones models to various stress tests to see how well they survived. The painted bones were bent, moved around, and only with severe bending did the paint crack. Another person left a painted bones figure in his pocket with his keys, and reported that it survived well, with only one place where the paint was noticeably damaged. That said, be careful to wash the minis carefully before painting them. Some of them retain some mold release agents that can have rather unfortunate effects on your paint job. This can range from the paint simply refusing to stick (acting the way thinned paint does on the bones) or else coming off all too easily afterwards. A good scrub with soap and warm water tends to fix this, though. EDIT: New picture of painted Nethyrmaul is up. 
JackMann fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Apr 10, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Apr 9, 2013 23:45
|
|
|
Over on the Reaper boards, a user by the name of Wren has written up three useful guides to Bones. Bones: Frequently Asked Questions - Unofficial! Bones: The First Coat is the Difference Bones: Preparation (Glues, Putties, Mould Lines, Etc.)
|
|
#
¿
Apr 11, 2013 01:03
|
|
|
The Reaper folks got back to me. They expect to be done by late May. However, if it comes down to the wire, they'll let me change the shipping address so things'll get sent to my folks, and won't end up sitting in my apartment complex's leasing office.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 12, 2013 02:14
|
|
|
Right, but his point is that you can get the Pathfinder Red for fifteen bucks once it hits stores, so he's only saving five bucks. On the other hand, he could save more by going for Cthulhu or something similar.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 13, 2013 02:04
|
|
|
Craft acrylics won't work as well. Different formulation, and they're cheap for a reason. The pigment isn't nearly as dense as in mini paints. You can use them, but they won't look quite as good, and will take more work. I'd save them for things like basing. Artist's acrylics are, as I understand, somewhat cheaper by volume than mini paints, and can work decent well. I haven't worked with them myself, so I can't really say much. If you go onto the Reaper forums and post in their Paint forum, there's a member there named Pingo who's a professional artist, and she can probably steer you toward some good choices that won't look like rear end.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 13, 2013 20:39
|
|
|
I've got someone picking up one of my Vampire boxes at ReaperCon and mailing it to me.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 15, 2013 22:39
|
|
|
Red_Mage posted:So out of curiousity, if I wanted to get enough paint to do the entire set (or more specifically for my wife to do it, because I cannot paint for poo poo) will any acrylic paint do? I ask because getting enough cool colors in official miniature paint is hella pricey, and since minis are a well known racket it wouldn't surprise me one bit if regular acrylic would work just as well. The topic came up on the Reaper boards, and several people chimed in. Basically, the issue is that craft acrylics have poor-quality pigments, and they're not very dense. Coverage won't be great, and they work pretty poorly for drybrushing, thinned layers, and washes. People can get decent results from them, but they take a lot more work to get anything like the same result. Artist's acrylics will have better quality pigment in greater density. However, the paints are much thicker than mini paints. You'll need to thin them down a quite a bit. Golden matte acrylic is apparently less thick than other artist's acrylics, with a consistency around the same as Elmer's glue. Still thicker than you want for a mini, but less thinning is needed. They're what our resident paint expert Pingo uses. Mini paints will give you a much more consistent mix, and come with flow improver, matte elements, and sometimes drying retarder. They'll require some thinning to use (varies by brand), but far less than craft or artist's paints. You'll have a lot more shades that are designed specifically for D&D-style minis. While they cost more, keep in mind that they'll last you quite a while. One member of the board is still using pots of paint that haven't even been made for twenty years. With proper thinning, you shouldn't have to replace a bottle for many, many minis. Essentially, craft paints work to an extent, but you'll have to work a lot harder to get decent results, and you'll never be quite as good as you could with better paints. Artist's acrylics cost more than the craft paints, but less than mini paints. They'll do the job pretty well, but they require a bit more work. Mini paints are the most expensive per volume, but they really are the best available paints for the job. It all comes down to how much you're willing to pay vs. the effort you have to put in, and what level of quality you're ultimately striving for. If you just want something you can plink down on the table, you can get away with craft paints. If you want to get better results faster, go with the artist's acrylics or mini paints. EDIT: Also, working with craft paints is a bad idea if you ever intend to move on, because you learn a lot of bad habits. If you intend to get good at it, invest in some solid paints. You don't really need all that many different paints to start with. Get your main colors and mix, building up the rest of your colors as you go. JackMann fucked around with this message at 01:52 on Apr 16, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Apr 16, 2013 01:48
|
|
|
Actually, I meant a fellow who goes by the name of Buglips (or are you Buglips?) And yes, I know, the double space is unnecessary. But it's so ingrained by now I can't break the habit. When I write something meant for publication, I have to do a find-and-replace to get rid of all the double spaces.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 16, 2013 02:22
|
|
|
JoshTheStampede posted:There are certainly models in the base Vampire that I would ocmplain if I was missing. The big cybergorilla or a storm giant. But yeah, novamarine #4 or fred the chimneysweep will probably not make me pick up the phone when I know they will be swamped. Speaking of the gorilla, I painted up the lead version recently for a mini exchange.   Hat was my work. The drill comes with the metal version, but the Bones will have the gun option integral. However, you can order the sprue with the hand options separately from Reaper for $2.27. It'd be a pretty easy conversion if you don't want the gun. No hand available for that arm, though.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 17, 2013 20:53
|
|
|
AlternateAccount posted:Can you be more specific? I have a few jacked up ones, too. If your Bones are off-position, you can fix 'em pretty easily. Hold them in boiling water (with tongs, unless you really want to be a badass), then pull them out, quickly reposition them, and then dunk them in ice water. Works quite well. If you're doing a bunch at a time, you might make a "hammock" with a dish cloth to hold the minis in the water, so they don't get burned by the bottom of the pot.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 17, 2013 22:32
|
|
|
Gumdrop Larry posted:Seems like it's the same as any mini that's plastic/finecast/whatever. Just boil a pot of water, dunk the screwey part into it for a couple of seconds, pinch the part between your fingers and sort of stroke it into its proper position. Do this a couple times until it looks right then immediately stick it in an ice bath and it should set like that. Bones are even more malleable than something like a really thin finecast sword or anything similar though, so I wonder if gravity might tend to drag them back to a droopy position over time. Not so long as you set 'em with ice water. The only time they tend to stick out of position is when they're kept bent for a long period of time. Gravity shouldn't have an effect.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 17, 2013 22:45
|
|
|
PublicOpinion posted:I've heard that sometimes boiling the Bones will bring the mold release agent to the surface and make paint not stick, so they recommend giving it a gentle wash. You should do that anyway before painting. It only happens with every fifth or sixth mini, but it's better to wash 'em all, or you end up with something that just flat out refuses to take paint. Isn't hard. Quick wash with some soap and maybe a toothbrush gets it done.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 18, 2013 03:12
|
|
|
There is, oddly enough, a number of people who will balk at buying a mini if they find out that some assembly is required. Even if it's just a dab of superglue and attach. They hear assembly, and think that's just going to be far too much work for them to manage, especially for something of the small investment a Bones figure represents. That said, the gluing took place in China, and generally only with smaller models. Larger models like the dragons will come unassembled. They're still talking about how they want to ship them after the Kickstarter, but I suspect large models will continue to be sold unassembled, since it saves on the packaging.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 18, 2013 06:06
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 13:53 |
|
|
Someone on the Reaper board said they were able to pop out the bugbear's shield after boiling. I'd imagine it's superglue. Certainly, superglue works pretty darned well on them.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 20, 2013 02:19
|
|