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What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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| Perennials! |
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142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
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30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
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62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
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171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
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60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
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31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
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183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
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jojoinnit posted:Hey I really appreciate these examples! My leaves are looking like the middle pic so I'll give them more water than I've been doing and do my best to make sure I don't leave it too wet at the bottom. You’re probably going to want to light this plant for at least a few hours in the morning/daytime if you can’t bring it outside, especially in winter. And I know people who have reflective grow tents for keeping these/tropicals optimally healthy during the winter months. Citrus trees tend to want it drier than your avg tropical (this is why cactus/succulent/citrus soil mix exists) but they can still get over dry in a heated home, but the thing that really messes them up is light fall-off.
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Aug 16, 2020 16:04
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 21:34 |
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Platystemon posted:Having no drainage holes on a citrus pot is seriously whack. It’s frankly amazing that it’s as healthy as it is like that. Maybe the nursery can get away with it in full sun, but you’re not going to indoors. If I had to guess about the lack of drainage holes, the plant likely wasn’t grown in that container. Maybe it was repotted from a more traditional nursery pot right before sale. Keeps the plant from making a mess in whatever store it was picked up in and makes it easier to give as a decorative gift and look nicer right off the shelf. Like a lot of gift plants, its long term longevity or health probably weren’t really a concern. It just has to survive the 2-4 weeks in store. Hell, killing it off quickly is maybe icing on the cake if it gets you interested in buying a new one in a month or two. Alternatively, it was kept in a really humid greenhouse and not/rarely directly watered. I dunno how citruses do like that but there are lots of tropicals that can be misted heavily instead of watered if you have the right (commercial/professional) setup for it.
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Aug 16, 2020 16:42
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Lead out in cuffs posted:When I think of where citrus is grown commercially, it's always in Mediterranean climates with hot, dry summers. I don't know what the issue would be with humidity. Probably disease? Yup. And fungus. A lot of the problems that succulents/cacti/euphorbia can get can happen to citrus plants. But it’s worth remembering that commercial citrus farming is an immensely technologically and mechanically-dependent endeavor, just in irrigation alone never mind everything else. Just because California’s been in a drought for a buncha years doesn’t mean that its citrus crop would be nearly as robust without the billions of dollars in life support that farmers have to invest in.
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Aug 16, 2020 19:50
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I have two 10in pots with three Petra croton in each that I bought at Home Despot last year when I moved. They’ve gotten very big and bushy, and also very leggy, in the last year. Aside from an ongoing minor spider mite problem, they seem to be doing great, though they could probably use some more light. They’re very rootbound, and each pot has an individual that’s been leaning and stretching to the point of almost falling out,and while it’s later in the season than I’d like to do this, they need to be separated and repotted (they’re indoor plants so I’m not too worried, I’m planning to be a bit more controlling and artificial with their environment this fall and winter anyway, and it’s still very warm in my area so they can get plenty of outdoor time). Two questions- - should I dust them with DE before planting them, to fight the spider mites? I’ve been wiping off webs and mites where I see them, but I’m getting a bag of DE to make bonsai mix anyway, so I may as well give ‘em a sprinkling outside while I’m at it. - how big should each pot be? 10in is where they are currently, three per pot. Everybody says the pot should be only a couple of inches bigger than the root ball. Since I’m sizing down a bit, does putting each in its own 10in pot make sense? I don’t want to rip them apart and then have to go get pots, frankly. I really don’t want them to drop leaves. They did in winter and I was luckily able to get them to bounce back strong.
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Aug 16, 2020 20:57
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Platystemon posted:I make that recommendation after rescuing plants where the area between the pots got dank and encouraged disease. I usually like to let the water sit for 30-60 minutes if the day is really hot. Then I’ll pour it out. Just don’t let it sit overnight and you’ll be fine for the most part.
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Aug 17, 2020 01:35
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https://youtu.be/G2oRwfyyQgg Edit: Oh man, this is from like a week ago but my intent was to post it in the TCC WeedThread, hope somebody enjoyed it tho. Just think of those microbes as even more miniature donkeys....or wait, is that the other plant thread? trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Aug 26, 2020 |
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Aug 18, 2020 17:34
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Bonsai thread is the only plant thread that makes any sense anymore.
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Aug 26, 2020 21:10
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Platystemon posted:Spotted on /r/marijuanaenthusiasts: this is the most weedthread thread ever
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Aug 27, 2020 17:12
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HELLO LADIES posted:This is good, but instead of making it "edibles vs horticulture", I'd say call the new one "all-purpose general plant poo poo of all kinds" and let the existing one be what it is, which is mostly "plant troubleshooting that happens to be dominated by vegetable poo poo but isn't required to be". Keep bonsai, keep hydroponics, open new "is this poison ivy????/can i get high eating this????" thread in TGO, and any new technique or type of plant that eventually gets big enough for it's own thread (permaculture/chompies/succs, etc) goes in DIY. if anime can have its own subforum, then plants should have their own subforum too
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Aug 27, 2020 20:38
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subpar anachronism posted:I find that often in my area Miracle-Gro mixes are already contaminated with fungus gnat larvae Or, at minimum, fungus. The mold itself is harmless to your plants (if anything, it's arguably helpful since it breaks down the organic material) but if you're already dealing with a gnat problem it can make it way worse.
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Aug 29, 2020 04:20
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I've moved over to using exclusively promix with other amendments for airiness and grit because of this.
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RickRogers posted:Any tar on your roof? If not, neither are any other undesirable substances that might have gotten washed out then it's probably fine, probably just leaves, moss and your old soil after all. Yeah, I would probably make a cheap vermiculture setup and let the worms process it for a bit.
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Aug 29, 2020 20:25
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Lead out in cuffs posted:Those are both succulents, so have good water reserves to tide them over from any root disruption. I'd say just repot them. Yeah, I separated a bunch of Euphorbia lactea like two or three weeks ago and wasn’t happy with how I had placed a couple of them in one of the pots, so I repositioned them last night before watering. No harm no foul.
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Aug 29, 2020 23:15
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Wallet posted:Just repot them, as others have said. Depending on how much you need to gently caress with the roots (e.g. if you break any) just don't water for a few days after repotting. Waiting longer will just give the plant longer to root in and make it more unpleasant for it, though succulent roots don't tend to grow very fast anyway. You can also like briefly sit the root ball in a bowl of water and maybe give it a light shakey shakey and wash all that stuff off. That's how I separated and repotted all of my succulents and cacti and they've all done well.
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Aug 30, 2020 00:57
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I did it I got a monstera adansonii, and a big one too Finally I can die I guess (not yet, I still need a deliciosa, they look rad in person) Now I think I gotta get one for my mom I also got a bunch of cheap, bitty croton varietals I didn’t previously have, to go with my big leggy ones, a bunch of small indoor prebonsai, and a small flowering succulent whose name currently escapes me but I think I’ll figure out in short order
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Sep 1, 2020 17:23
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Jaded Burnout posted:Thank you I am obligated by my research PI to tell you to load them up on iNaturalist. You'll get a bunch of responses in short enough order
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Sep 13, 2020 18:02
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Jaded Burnout posted:Sour cherry - Prunus cerasus is what the app says, but trying to do it from photos is giving me a headache so I'll go back out and try it in person tomorrow. Oh yeah, field biologists and birders do this poo poo for fun. Like, literally drink beers or get pizza with lab and do iNaturalist. It’s a serious citizen science project. The anorak-y dudes who manage the databases are 1) dedicated pros, 2) students/postdocs managing their pet taxa/being pressured to be involved by their bosses 3) hardcore lay folk
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Sep 13, 2020 19:34
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Been meaning to grab some GE grow bulbs later in the fall. 1) is the least powerful (16 micromoles/second, 9w) bulb adequate? I’m planning to consolidate my houseplants to an IKEA IVAR shelving unit in front of a window and was hoping to give them supplementary light through the winter. The lighting in that nook really decreases in winter as the Earth shifts. Also I want to get more growth and coloration from my crotons and boost growth in my bonsai (among other things mentioned below). Figured 1-2 bulbs in clamp fixtures for each shelf (doing 2-3 shelves) would be plenty. GE and other brands make much more powerful bulbs (38 micromol/sec, 54, etc) that are more expensive but also seem like they might be too much for the plants. 2) how much attention should I pay to light spectrum? GE makes balanced/full spectrum bulbs that they call “good for anything/any life stage” and advanced red spectrum bulbs for fruiting/flowering. Should I be planning on getting some red spectrum bulbs for spring or whatever? I don’t have any fruiting plants but a bunch of my succulents flowered this summer/are still flowering. I’ve seen recommendations from people who switch to/add in more red-spectrum bulbs in spring/summer but that seems to be focused on flowering and fruiting plants. Aside from a lot of succulents and cacti I’ve got a bunch of spekboom (p. afra) prebonsai/propagates, like seven varietals of croton, two small grafted ficus bonsai, some schefflera prebonsai, some euphorbia lactea, and a medium-to-largeish Monstera adansonii. Probably add a couple more plants including an M. deliciosa before the end of Nov. Ultimately I want to do whatever is best for the health and longevity of the plants, so if that means shifting their environment with the seasons at least a little bit I’ll do that (although I am trying to force some winter growth in all of the prebonsai), but I don’t want to like force flowering either or- alternatively- force the plant to think its eternally the same season or whatever. I don’t want to confuse them by blasting them with light in winter and potentially less light once spring hits, etc. TLDR- I wanna do what’s best for the plants. Before anybody asks, yes I plan to get a humidifier for the plants that really need/benefit from it, I do not intend to simply bake my plants in the dry climate of my New England home (my Petra crotons dumped a bunch of leaves last winter when the heat started coming on), and I’m not against picking up a grow tent/light later in the fall if I really need to/wanna get intensive with my tropicals. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Sep 20, 2020 |
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Sep 20, 2020 20:11
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candystarlight posted:Full disclosure: I am also a die-hard Ryobi fan. My garage is full of their poo poo, from saws to pressure washers. My mom jokes that my first born will be named Ryobi. I may look into pitching that to them further if and when that time comes. Do you have small hands? A few years back an ex I lived with was looking to get power tools and apparently Ryobi is the #1 recommendation for women/the smaller-handed. Wallet posted:I have nine goosenecks in my living room above my windows with the GE 9w bulbs in them—at the distance it sounds like you're talking about they should be plenty bright for supplementing the reduced light your window will get in the winter. The red spectrum bulbs are supposed to help get plants to flower but if you aren't having any issues/that isn't your focus I would just stick with full spectrum, which includes red light. cheers, thanks.
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Sep 20, 2020 23:32
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candystarlight posted:Interesting! I'm pretty sure I have normal woman-sized hands. In gloves, I wear the M/L, never anything smaller than M. How’s his dong? Does it resemble a certain secondary Super Mario character? “Trumpian Dong” would be a good forums name.... But yeah, it’s apparently a niche that Ryobi started actively pursuing a few years back, and why they’ve sponsored a bunch of well-known lady renovators over the last decade. Also a lot of their stuff has historically been designed for the Japanese market as well which generally tends to skew smaller and prefer smaller products (don’t go to tool forums looking for more info on this tho, unless you wanna see some boomers get crypto-racist about East Asian people). Ryobi Ltd. itself is actually a much bigger company that makes auto parts and stuff. They license the Ryobi Tools brand to Techtronic in HK who also make Milwaukee tools (hence the market segmentation) and a bunch of popular vacuum brands.
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Sep 21, 2020 01:12
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Oil of Paris posted:
Don’t tell any Mammilaria that you know
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Sep 24, 2020 17:22
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I. M. Gei posted:Please help me get good at grafting. you like ficuses? Try practicing on ficuses. DIY yourself a “ficus ginseng” with a trunk chop and 2-3 branches grafted to the resulting stump
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Oct 1, 2020 09:40
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Worth noting that those dark ZZ varietals that were super trendy and expensive last year are cheap and easy to get now. Also saw some purple and dark-dark green morphs of those chunky little Jello Jiggler Haworthias that seem to be having a small moment right now at the plant store this weekend. Maybe worth keeping an eye open.
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Oct 12, 2020 12:26
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Wallet posted:Is a jello jiggler just one of the Haworthia with fat/semi-transparent leaves like retusa var. springbokvlakensis or cooperi var. truncata or something or is there a new cultivar with a really stupid name? Nope those are the ones I’m talking about, I gave them that dumb descriptor. They’ve got fat squared off leaves. Is this some kind of monstrose deal? Some of them seem to have their leaves straighten out and become more like normal Haworthia with time/the appropriate circumstances but I have no idea what those are. They look neat
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Oct 12, 2020 19:01
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I got fungus gnats in my houseplants. Aside from trying to keep the plants as dry as possible, are soil drenches of 1:4 hydrogen peroxide and sticky traps the best way to eliminate them?
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Oct 26, 2020 05:58
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Looked at sundews again (my plant store got a whole bunch of assorted carnivorous plants in the other day and I might have a look) and apparently they’re sensitive to photoperiod and will enter dormancy if you gently caress with their light schedule. No clue on whether it’s required like with flytraps or if it’s purely induced. Either way, I don’t particularly like that..... Too much pressure for me.
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Oct 26, 2020 12:54
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Plant MONSTER. posted:That cactus is just a tower of boobs. wait’ll you hear about Mammilaria
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Oct 30, 2020 19:12
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terre packet posted:
that just a varietal of Crassula?
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Nov 12, 2020 20:00
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YAPID!!! 
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my two grafted ficus “ginseng” bonsai were ikea rescues. And one of my variegated aloe. And a bunch of small Euphorbia trigona And I had an absolutely gorgeous calathea ornata that did what calatheas do and died slowly and miserably over ~3 years
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Nov 12, 2020 20:36
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Hirayuki posted:Oh, is that what's happening to my calathea? Seems it's just calatheaing. Lol, good luck. Maybe do a bit of research, I hear they’re savable but it takes work. Mine did that and held on for a year+ but it never regained vigor or put out more than like 2-3 lovely leaves before dying again
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Nov 13, 2020 01:46
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D-Pad posted:There are not enough birds for this amount of berries lol. Our puppy wants to eat them so I can't wait anyway. You got a leaf blower? I’d collect them as best I could into a little pile and then sweep them up or whatever.
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Nov 13, 2020 18:54
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do clover instead or raised beds or an entire yard of
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Nov 23, 2020 20:25
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plant kudzu, great for reducing topsoil erosion!
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Nov 23, 2020 20:46
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Appoda posted:I've been meaning to start a windowsill herb garden. I've got a lot of window space; basically the amount you'd have from a sliding glass door leading to a patio except it's just a wall in my living room. You’re much better off just starting an indoor potted garden/acquiring potted herbs and then moving them to a sill or outside as the weather warms up. You might need some cheap lighting and maybe some shelves to put everything on. I currently have a spare ikea Ivar occupying the space in front of one of my windows but I’ll be adding lights as the daylight decreases. But I also have many plants.
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Nov 30, 2020 08:56
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Mammillaria, also known as Lil’ Nipples
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Dec 2, 2020 01:27
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You ever go to a real deal serious-people plant store and see a 60 yr old $500 perfect agave that’s as big as a high school freshman?
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Dec 2, 2020 07:05
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Didn’t take one it was long ago but I thought about it tonight. It sold later on. But here’s a beautiful euphorbia:
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Dec 2, 2020 07:52
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and here’s some of my euphorbias and a couple other things the spekboom did not like being repotted but it’s got lots of tiny bright leaf buds popping in that don’t really show up well in the photo  (edit: loving Imgur making it sideways I have no clue why) And here’s a monstera looking happy after a spray 
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Dec 2, 2020 17:30
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RickRogers posted:Nice euphorbia! I want so many of them. The lacteas in the photo all came from one $14 costa farms tabletop planting I bought when I moved into this place. That's lead me to becoming aware of trigonas, trigona rubras, dragon bones variegateds, tie dye variegateds, cresteds, the ones with the dangly bits, etc. I have a bunch of different croton varietals too, so I'm just all about those spurges and euphorbiaceae
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Dec 3, 2020 10:49
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the fart question posted:
What monstrose form is that? Hobbit? Silver lining, the plant did its own defoliation!
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Dec 3, 2020 21:21
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 21:34 |
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the fart question posted:It’s about 20 years old now, but I think it’s Gollum. Instead of its usual bright green it now looks like over cooked asparagus 😢 Do what bonsai ppl would do in that case- defoliate the sucker—pluck all the leaves, and then pop it under a grow light. Just water it normally (some people say not to water until new leaves bud but I think that’s only for portulacarias) and trust it to grow back an even prettier head of hair. The replacement batch of leaves might wind up smaller than normal (bonsai ppl do this on purpose, gives the tree a bigger sense of scale) but eventually after a cycle or two it’ll re-normalize and it’ll look like a bigger, more mature version of the tree you had before the frost (this is why bonsai get defoliated on a cycle).
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Dec 3, 2020 21:43
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