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What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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|---|---|---|---|
| Perennials! |
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142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
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30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
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62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
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171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
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60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
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31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
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183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
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Epsilon Plus posted:I'm unsure of how to brush off the dead leaves without getting in there with, like, tweezers). Epsilon Plus posted:Over the past two months they've slowly been losing leaves - they shrivel up, then fall off/I break them off. To echo the other three posters that only showed up when I hit preview, it just looks like they want more sun—some succulents are difficult to keep happy indoors unless you're going to blast them with grow lights. A lot of people seem to resign themselves to just topping their Echeverias etc as they get etiolated over and over again. It's normal for rosette form succulents to lose their lower leaves as they grow. If the leaves are dessicated when they're falling off the plant then the plant is probably sucking the moisture/nutrients out and then discarding them—if they are mushy and dark or translucent you should make sure you don't have a rot problem. Epsilon Plus posted:The one on the left is getting some kind of strandy growths - are those an attempt at roots? Epsilon Plus posted:The pot on the right of that main image is, I'm pretty sure, just dying. It's been very slowly losing leaves for two, maybe three months - I thought it stopped, but it's still slowly wilting. On the flip side if you have a plant that is declining despite having a healthy root system etc it could be a nutrient problem. Nosre posted:Otherwise, with succulents and cacti, I've found that bigger pots are WORSE because it's way easier for you to overwater them (since the excess soil holds more and keeps them damp for longer). This becomes way less of an issue if you use some kind of gritty mix, which I can't recommend highly enough for succulents. You can mix your own with inexpensive ingredients that are pretty easy to get your hands on if you are willing to do some running around. These guys also make an excellent ready to plant succulent mix though it's on the expensive side. Wallet fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Jul 2, 2020 |
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Jul 2, 2020 17:47
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Fitzy Fitz posted:I bought this metal set and use it for a variety of things: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVIEJ14/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Yeah, I find it very relaxing to groom my plants even though I probably look like a crazy person removing dried leaves one by one with tiny tweezers off of e.g. my Opuntia. How blunt are the blunt ones? I switched to the cheap tweezers from the set I linked after I accidentally stabbed my succulents one too many times.
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Jul 2, 2020 18:08
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Epsilon Plus posted:As far as soil goes, it's cheap potting mix with a healthy handful of perlite worked in. I'm probably running out to get some stuff today - assuming I don't find something ready-made, I'm reading that a 2:2:1 or 3:2:1 mix of soil, sand and perlite is ideal? I've tried mixing sand in before, but that plant died fairly quickly and I wasn't sure if it was just me dropping it in an inappropriate soil or what. I wouldn't encourage mixing sand in—while sand on its own obviously drains nicely once you mix sand with other kinds of soil it tends to turn into very hard clumps that don't drain well. A gritty mix is generally one without soil and with limited organics. The original basic recipe is a 1:1:1 mix of pine or fir bark fines, turface (calcined clay), and crushed granite. There are numerous replacements for any of those elements; Elgarbo, for example, posted what he uses in the thread a while ago: elgarbo posted:My mix is unnecessarily complex, I just like how it looks and it gives me good results. It's approx 3 parts pumice, 3 parts sifted cactus mix, 1 part zeolite, 1 part akadama and a handful of slow release fertiliser. If I replaced the zeolite and akadama with pumice it would be just as good, but they give the soil a bit of a rainbow look. You can switch out the granite with stuff like pea gravel and you can also switch out the turface with pumice or perlite (though perlite breaks down more quickly). If you buy "Cactus mix" at a big box store it's usually going to retain way more water than your succulents want unless they are sitting outdoors in full sun all day (and maybe even then). Wallet fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Jul 2, 2020 |
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Jul 2, 2020 21:56
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Perpetual Hiatus posted:While we are on succulent chat - I havent been very careful and have introduced mealybugs and scale (and probably other things). I didnt really get how much scale can spread. It seems the solution is alcohol or soapy water. I bought fancy hippy Bronner soap and have alcohol. They *kind of* seem to work, I have been very inconsistent with maintenance in general though.... Can I apply both solutions each day for a week or two, say one early AM and one after sunset? Or is there some other approach that is good. I'm glad I didnt white oil them, I came close. Dr. Bronner's should work (a little bit of it mixed with water, though a little bit of dish soap mixed with water should also work). You can either mist the bugs with a spray bottle or just paint it on them with a q-tip. When the scale dies (pretty quickly, in general) you should be able to just wipe it off the plant. I would just do it once a day for a while until it clears up. elgarbo posted:Anyway, it's winter down here and so lots of plants in the collection are dormant, except for a few odd South African winter growing succulents. But so I have *something* to do over these cold, dark months, I've got a couple of heat mats and a light set up to keep some of my trickier seedlings going over winter: You're putting my propagation setup (a row of little plastic pots on my window sill) to shame. What are the caudiciforms in the bottom right with the reddish leaves? Also the little ridged goober next to them is cute AF. Wallet fucked around with this message at 13:33 on Jul 3, 2020 |
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Jul 3, 2020 13:22
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elgarbo posted:Those are Euphorbia unispina. Tediously slow growing. They're over a year old now and the stem is just one centimetre across. I have no idea how they ever reach maturity at this rate. Speaking of Eurphorbias, my myrsinites has been shooting out new growth like mad since I put it in the ground:  elgarbo posted:The little ridged goober is a Eulychnia castanea 'Spiralis.' I took a little cutting off a bigger plant I have and it did nothing but dehydrate all summer. Almost gave up on it, but thought I'd let it sit on the heat mat for a bit before tossing it and it's finally put down some roots and plumped up. Oh god, they're even cuter when they grow up. I may have to try to source one of these  .What do you do with all these plants you're propagating, anyway? You must be running a store or a beloved guest at every local plant swap or something.
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Jul 3, 2020 14:16
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tuyop posted:This howarthia I bought from a grocery store and it’s turning brown on the tips. The tips being dried out like that is very common with newly purchased Haworthia fasciata. I think it's potentially from them getting sunburned at nurseries but I'm not entirely sure what causes it. tuyop posted:And I believe this is the saddest aloe. Your aloe looks like it may be well on the way to rotting, unfortunately, but it's impossible to tell for sure from a photo. Succulents on the shelves at places like supermarkets and big box stores often have some/all of their roots rotted out from the store overwatering the poo poo out of them while they wait for them to sell. The soil you have them in also looks dangerously organic (there's some posts about what to grow succulents in within the last page or two). tuyop posted:Or ones I should add next? Wallet fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Jul 5, 2020 |
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Jul 5, 2020 19:43
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tuyop posted:Oh wow, thanks for this. I'll do my best tracking down some succulent mix and transplanting them. I hope the aloe will be ok! Can I just leave it out of the pot and let the roots dry out?? I would pull it out of the soil it's in and check if its roots are doing okay. Rotten roots are mushy/soft and dark brown generally, while healthy roots should be firm and light colored. If it has root rot you'll want to wash as much of the soil off of them as you can and then remove any rotten roots (with scissors, preferably); replant it in something well draining and don't water it for a while. Novo posted:I can confirm this. All the flower stalks on mine turned into those fuzzy seed pods. When dry, the pods will spring open once cracked. Apparently if you cut them back before the whole thing goes to seed they will flower again. Can confirm that they can/will flower multiple times if you cut them back after the petals start falling off the first time around. Wallet fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Jul 7, 2020 |
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Jul 7, 2020 00:15
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I. M. Gei posted:It didn’t get cooked. It got the exact same amounts of water, sun, and heat as all of the other trees, and is in the exact same mix of soil, and it’s still the only tree out of the bunch that is suffering. If it had been cooked, then several of the other trees would’ve had the same poo poo going on too. There might have been pretty clear signs of what was going wrong a couple of weeks ago but it's kind of hard to tell now. It could be an animal or whatever specifically damaging that tree, but it could also be that all of the trees experienced the same stress this one did but it wasn't as able to deal with it. It seems pretty common to get multiple plants of the same species from the same source and find that some of them don't do nearly as well as others or take much longer to settle in. Plants that are already weak are less able to defend themselves from pests, and it looks like even before it withered away that tree didn't have nearly as much foliage as the trees to either side of it (unless you pruned it since it died).
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Jul 16, 2020 01:23
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I. M. Gei posted:Is there a test you can do to check for parasites/diseases or cat piss in your soil? Or do I need to send a soil sample off to my local ag extension and have them test it? You could just test the PH of it and compare to the surrounding soil. That obviously won't tell you about parasites but it seems sort of unlikely that anything parasitic in the soil would have killed that plant but have ignored all of the other ones.
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Jul 16, 2020 03:30
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
If this is supposed to be more of a botany thread having the title be about buying bulbs is probably misleading.
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Jul 18, 2020 15:06
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Platystemon posted:I was joking. House plants are cool. What if I have garden plants that turned into house plants? What thread does that go in?  I got some Opuntia fragilis 'Potato' that I briefly put in the garden but then I became paranoid that a squirrel was going to ravage the cute little guys so I decided to dig them up and move them inside until they multiply enough that I can risk their offspring.
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Jul 18, 2020 16:09
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treat posted:Today, I'm just going to drop some of the better photos I've taken and show off a few plants that I adore (and one I don't). Going to echo the request for more of this. This is the only milkweed I have (Asclepias tuberosa) that's flowering. It's native here but this one is admittedly in my garden (which I guess is cheating in this thread now). 
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Jul 20, 2020 01:18
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ughhhh posted:Cool. So how do i safely allow my Ivy's to climb all over the walls without damaging them indoors? Would a plastic tarp or mesh spacing be good? I have several Ivy's growing like crazy on pots and they really want to crawl around. To be more specific, Im going to use plastic wall hooks to keep my pothos vines up which I am not worried about, but the hustler and jubilee Ivy's I have which grow using little claws are what I am worried about I have some Pothos growing up one of my walls and it has surprised me by being more than capable of holding onto the paint without any assistance (though I have given it some support just in case). As far as the Ivy goes, other than hanging up some trellis netting or something I suppose you could just do it with plastic hooks as well though it might be labor intensive depending on how much ivy you have. 3M makes clips for christmas lights (Amazon lists them as "outdoor light clips") that are pretty good for holding onto stems.
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Jul 24, 2020 00:47
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Nosre posted:Why not just get rid of the wick thing? That'd free it up for way more cacti/succulents, which would be my first thought for such a tiny pot Yeah, the moisture is really the issue. You could try looking at some of the mini plants that people use for aquariums and poo poo. I know there are very small Anubias varieties that might like it, at least.
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Jul 28, 2020 20:59
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tuyop posted:Regarding the potting soil mix, does this stuff look alright? I know it’s been awhile but... covid and urban unrest and stuff. 😳 Wouldn't recommend it as its peat based. This (just looking at the first page of results for cactus mix on Canadian Amazon) looks like it has a saner set of ingredients though I have not personally tried it and they don't say the ratios. Plant MONSTER. posted:edit: I just noticed my Clivia started blooming. Except it's the tiniest bloom count ever. Hey, if it's blooming at all you're not doing too bad with Clivia. One of my family members has an absolutely massive one they've been growing for 25 years that is now too large to move anywhere to give it a dormant period so, you know, don't do that. Wallet fucked around with this message at 14:27 on Jul 29, 2020 |
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Jul 29, 2020 14:22
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Hirayuki posted:When I wiggle the plant, it moves alarmingly easily at and/or below the visible base. I can water it and fertilize it, but it doesn't seem to react (you can see the wrinkled "leaves"), whereas another cactus that's just as old as this one and in the same pot is putting out new growth. Your description and the picture make me think it's rotting. Have you checked out the roots? The base of it looks like rotten Schlumbergera looks, and the leaves that are getting kind of translucent and losing their color look like they are also rotting. If that's what is going on, you can try taking some cuttings from it but if you do so make sure that you only get healthy bits because if you keep anything that has started to rot it's likely to spread to the rest of the cutting. Wallet fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Aug 5, 2020 |
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Aug 5, 2020 00:19
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Hirayuki posted:Sorry for the delay; I just got to my houseplant chores today. The roots look...well, not awful? I guess? I expected them to be wetter if they were rotting. But to be fair, a clump of roots came away easily as I was digging this plant up, so maybe they're not so hot after all. Certainly you'd expect them to be more robust after all these years. Branches and roots popping off is not a good sign. Roots should be firm when you touch them (not mushy or soft/hollow feeling, rotted roots won't necessarily be wet) and they should be able to resist gentle tugging (don't tug on feeder roots). It's kind of hard to tell how healthy those roots are from a photo, but the big one on the bottom kind of looks like it may have already rotted and then dried out. The brown parts (with the arrows) look like rot, and if they are squishy they almost certainly are. Before I  about cuttings, I will echo the perennial succulent advice: I can't recommend growing succulents in a gritty mix strongly enough. It will greatly reduce your chances of running into rot problems in the future. You can make your own gritty mix with inexpensive ingredients—the "original" recipe is one part pine or fir bark fines (you can often find this at pet stores), one part calcined clay (Turface), and one part crushed granite. There are alternatives to those ingredients depending on what you can get your hands on: the calcined clay can be replaced with pumice or perlite (though perlite turns into dust a lot more quickly), and the granite can be replaced with gravel or whatever small rocks float your boat. You can also purchase bagged gritty mix. Bonsai Jack makes an excellent one though it's a bit pricey. There are probably less expensive options on Amazon but you may want to check out the ingredients/reviews to make sure they aren't putting weird/stupid poo poo in there. It is harder to root cuttings from an unhealthy plant than a healthy one, just as a heads up; even the leaves that aren't browning yet look like they're shriveling because the plant hasn't been able to take up water, which is going to mean that they'll have a significantly shorter window to get out roots before they dry up and die. I'd take cuttings as far away from the rot as you can—I think for Schlumbergera people usually recommend taking at least two segments per cutting. Get as many plausible cuttings as you can to give yourself a decent number of shots at getting one of them to root (rooting powder/gel wouldn't hurt). Though it's not an approach I'm usually into, I would be tempted to try water rooting some of the cuttings if you can get a decent number. Petey posted:been planning to overwinter inside again since I have very sunny south-facing windows. However, I was looking at my platform today and wondering if I could buy or build a small greenhouse instead and keep them there. I'm not sure where to begin looking or what the minimum requirements are (would I have to heat it? will it be warm enough?); any advice? I know there are people in zones much colder than 6b that are using unheated greenhouses (by carefully designing them to absorb as much heat as possible during the day) though I would constantly be paranoid about a particularly cold night killing everything. At 4x4 I'm not sure how worth it it's going to be if you already have nice south-facing windows indoors. There's little prefabs like this but I have no idea if they would trap enough heat to keep things from freezing in 6. I guess you could add some kind of heating to it pretty easily if necessary. Wallet fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Aug 10, 2020 |
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Aug 9, 2020 23:59
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Hirayuki posted:These are glorious! I especially love the fancy daffodils and how packed those hyacinths are. I don't know why I never gave much thought to bulbs; we have a couple persistent daffodils in our front garden (we thought we dug them out a decade-plus back) that make me smile every spring. Thanks for the inspiration! I swear daffodils have gotten fancier since I was a kid. I ordered a couple of varieties for planting this fall a little while ago; I almost went for some of the ruffled fancy ones but I love how clean the two color varieties look:  'Eleanor Auchincloss'  'Chromacolor' Also some of these burgundy Alliums 
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Aug 13, 2020 00:50
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Ok Comboomer posted:- should I dust them with DE before planting them, to fight the spider mites? Ok Comboomer posted:- how big should each pot be? 10in is where they are currently, three per pot. Everybody says the pot should be only a couple of inches bigger than the root ball. Since I'm sizing down a bit, does putting each in its own 10in pot make sense? I don't want to rip them apart and then have to go get pots, frankly. I really don't want them to drop leaves. If they're three to a ten inch pot right now unless they're insanely overgrown putting each in a 10" pot seems like it could be overkill. If the pots are terra-cotta or something else that breathes you can probably get away with it as long as you're careful not to overwater them, though?
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Aug 17, 2020 14:06
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Oil of Paris posted:Not 100% sure splitting off the whole thread would help, its kind of nice that this is a big rear end megathread because theres a lot of knowledge contained in one convenient spot. just seems like the traffic has gone down markedly since the move. also while we do occasionally post about the cool plants that we see in the world, almost all the posts are about ornamentals that we personally possess, this is way more horticultural than botanical The gardening thread is nearly 100% vegetable/herb gardening which is totally fine, but posting about ornamentals there feels like you're attempting to derail it. I can't tell if the lack of posts in this thread is because people can't find it anymore or if it's because people aren't sure what they're supposed to be posting here. The first post is about general plant appreciation. Maybe it's a good idea to keep this as the botany thread (or reboot it) and split one off that is explicitly for ornamental horticulture? The person who originally posted this thread is permabanned. I'm happy to help pull together information for a new OP at least covering the succulent questions that come up over and over, and I still have a list of goon-approved places to get you some plants, but there's a lot of posters here (hint hint Oil of Paris) that are a lot more qualified to talk about ornamentals that don't enjoy being deprived of water.
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Aug 24, 2020 13:47
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Platystemon posted:I think that ideally the gardening thread would be “here’s how I prepared the garden/here’s how things are growing/here’s the harvest” as the seasons progress, with everyone sharing advice along the way. This is more or less how GBS and C-SPAM threads have gone. Basically this: Oil of Paris posted:In reality, we're all just mostly homebody nerds who like to dig in dirt and plant pretty stuff in the holes. Horticulture is the main focus of the thread, actual botany remains an interesting but only occasional aside Wallet fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Aug 26, 2020 |
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Aug 26, 2020 21:07
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Jaded Burnout posted:OK so any objection to this? Sounds good to me.
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Aug 27, 2020 21:08
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:I cant get enough of these giant tree pics bring en to the new thread. That second one?!? The two big rear end oak trees in my yard are now struggling with feelings of inadequacy. Thanks plant/gardening/horticulture/420 thread  Oil of Paris posted:I think it's worked out naturally pretty well. This thread is the horticulture catch all, the gardening thread is for productive food gardening, hydroponics is I assume weed and perhaps giant tomatoes, and the bonsai squad have their own super niche thing I still feel like the OP is not very representative of the things that get posted here but hopefully things will pick back up whenever we move back to DIY. I haven't yelled at anyone about growing their succulents in disgusting natural soil for multiple weeks now.
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Aug 28, 2020 17:38
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Mecca-Benghazi posted:The leaves do feel plump when I touch them, they are just barely starting to curl in so I watered them just now. I had a fungus gnats a few months back which made it lose some leaves but it didn't change in droopiness either way. My plants live on mostly benign neglect The fungus gnats are kind of worrying because it suggests that your Aloe has been sitting in moist substrate for longer than it really should. A gritty mix won't hurt it, and it could definitely help. That aside, it does look like it would appreciate some more sun. There are a few species of Aloe that can have narrower leaves and a slightly droopy habit but from the pictures it seems like it's reaching to get more light (causing it to be unable to support its leaves) or flattening out for the same reason. Are the droopy leaves limp if you try to move them or are they just fixed in that position?
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Aug 28, 2020 21:58
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Mecca-Benghazi posted:Should I go even grittier? The stuff you linked looks pretty good, but you're kind of defeating the purpose by mixing dirt in with it—it's also somehow way the gently caress more expensive than Bonsai Jack? If my indoor succulents in medium/small pots still have moisture in them more than three days after watering I start to get a little nervous, but whether or not you can achieve that indoors without going full gritty will depend on how well the humidity in your house/whatever is controlled. It has been humid as gently caress in MA lately, at least where I'm at. Wallet fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Aug 29, 2020 |
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Aug 29, 2020 01:24
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Oil of Paris posted:drat, didn’t know about this stuff. I have some potted plants like a jade and a hen and chicks that I think would really be happier in this. Not really my area of specialty so never looked for proper soil. I think they’re currently in a mix of leftover ancient soil conditioner (pine chips), some sand, and some smaller gravel that I took out from the driveway lol. So thanks! I think bromeliads want a bit more moisture retention but I could be wrong. subpar anachronism posted:I find that often in my area Miracle-Gro mixes are already contaminated with fungus gnat larvae Wallet fucked around with this message at 12:29 on Aug 29, 2020 |
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Aug 29, 2020 12:16
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I've moved over to using exclusively promix with other amendments for airiness and grit because of this.
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AfricanBootyShine posted:How soon can I repot a plant after... repotting a plant? I have an aloe and a kalanchoe that I potted in generic compost mix two weeks ago, as succulent soil was OOS in every shop in the area. I managed to get a good mix off of etsy finally, and I know they'd be happier in it. Just repot them, as others have said. Depending on how much you need to gently caress with the roots (e.g. if you break any) just don't water for a few days after repotting. Waiting longer will just give the plant longer to root in and make it more unpleasant for it, though succulent roots don't tend to grow very fast anyway. showbiz_liz posted:Supposing you were a monster who figured special succulent soil wasn't THAT big a deal (eg, me) - if you repot in a different medium, do you need to try to remove every bit of soil from the roots before transplanting? Or can you leave the root ball in soil if the rest of the pot is succulent medium? Ideally you remove as much as you possibly can without destroying the plant, honestly. If you have substrate that retains far more water than everything around it right up against the plant's roots it's very difficult to tell how long the roots are staying moist. Using something long and thin like a skewer or a metal chopstick can make it a lot easier to get the roots cleaned off without breaking them all.
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Aug 30, 2020 00:48
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Oil of Paris posted:Anybody else having some mature and healthy trees prematurely defoliating? My big rear end black cherry has really left loose, I think this summer has just been one big rear end kick and the plants are calling it a day earlier We had literally 3 days of spring which caused a bunch of things to start shooting up, then it was cold and rainy for months, and then we went into full blown summer with three weeks of drought. A lot of my plants are clearly confused. Some are flagging a bit early, other ones are pushing out new growth much later than I would expect. All of the trees in my yard (which I planted all but one of this year) seem to be extremely happy with the weird rear end conditions this season, though, including a ~3 foot umbrella pine that has put on most of a foot. I'm hoping we don't get slammed with a bad winter because I have a feeling a lot of things aren't really prepared for it.
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Sep 6, 2020 22:03
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Jaded Burnout posted:Edit: though now I look at images of flowering hydrangea I'm not sure it's for me. I'm not a fan of plants with big poofy flowers (see also Rhododendron). I'm happy I'm not the only person who just doesn't like hydrangea.
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Sep 16, 2020 15:08
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Ok Comboomer posted:Been meaning to grab some GE grow bulbs later in the fall. I have three gooseneck fixtures with the GE 9w bulbs in them above each of the windows in my living room—at the distance it sounds like you're talking about they should be plenty bright for supplementing the reduced light your window will get in the winter. I'm using the full spectrum bulbs both because the red spectrum bulbs make everything ugly and because I almost exclusively have succulents. The red spectrum bulbs are supposed to help get plants to flower but if you aren't having any issues/that isn't your focus I would just stick with full spectrum, which includes red light. Wallet fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Sep 20, 2020 |
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Sep 20, 2020 23:32
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B33rChiller posted:Why do I seem to get a different plant when I propagate from leaves? I did some reading into this: I had been under the impression that these were just a particular jade cultivar someone had bred and a number of sources on the internet indicate that this is the case, but as showbiz is saying they seem to actually be a monstrose mutation of Crassula ovata. As far as I know cristate/monstrose forms are sometimes environmental (caused by bacteria/fungus/insects/etc), in which case they usually aren't very stable, and sometimes they are genetic (in which case they usually are). Given how common it is and that I have never heard about anyone having reversion issues I would assume that 'Hobbit' is a genetic mutation. With what you're seeing it seems likely that the mutation isn't present in the leaves but is in the nodes. There's a decent overview that gives some more information about cristate/monstrose succulents (and has a lot of cool pictures) someone posted on Dave's Garden years ago. Wallet fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Sep 23, 2020 |
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Sep 23, 2020 17:51
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Spring would really be the time for plant swapping, I'd imagine? Digging things up to divide them right before first frost (here, anyway) seems unwise.Oil of Paris posted:This will ultimately become a nice big rear end bush with incredible winter flowers and nice fall color This is rad—you have immaculate taste in shrubs. Oil of Paris posted:The fabled titty cactus These aren't too hard to find now as someone produced a cultivar (Myrtillocactus geometrizans 'Fukurokuryuzinboku'). Wallet fucked around with this message at 13:22 on Sep 24, 2020 |
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Sep 24, 2020 13:20
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I went around and took pictures of everything recently so that I know what is where in the spring and made notes on how things did/what needs to be moved next season/etc since there's no way I'll remember it all. I would encourage everyone else who lives where it gets cold to remember to do the same (also post some pictures, TIA). I had made a post back in June after I had finished planting everything so here's a few updates (I have been slacking on weeding as we near the end of the season):  I ended up spreading a layer of pea gravel and putting in some rocks so everything looks a bit less lovely (and to hold some heat in the winter). All of those leaves poking out from under the skirt of the Yucca filamentosa 'Color Guard' are the ~15 babies it poo poo out after it flowered. I don't know what the gently caress I'm going to do with them all.  The Eryngium yuccifolium in the middle here has flowered like mad though it's a little thin now because I cut a bunch of it to dry. The dark red Euphorbia 'Nothowlee' took a long time to start growing but it is starting to look like an actual plant. I finally managed to get someone to sell me the Yucca rostrata 'Sapphire Skies' poking in from the edge of the photo.  The tiny Euphorbia myrsinites from the last post has put on a ton of growth even with the Sedum attempting to consume it—the striped Miscanthus overshadowing it used to be in a nice tidy bunch and then we had a big storm that blew it all over the place.  Someone gave me this plant in a little 1 quart pot and it has spread to a 3 or 4 foot patch in one season. Help! I don't even remember what it is but it sure looks like a variegated Delosperma. The two Andropogon gerardii 'Blackhawks' behind it took a long time to settle in but they have now put on some growth.   The Euphorbia cyparissias (also tidier before the storm blew it all over the place) and Euphorbia amygdaloides went in quite late but have filled out nicely. There's a Yucca baccata hiding in there as well as what I think is a red Hesperaloe parviflora (I rescued it from drowning at a Lowes while I was picking up some paving stones and their labelling sucks). I'm hoping both of them will put on some size next year. The only thing that seems to have spent the entire season doing absolutely nothing is the Festuca glauca. The place I got them sent them in those biodegradable coconut fiber pots and suggested they get planted in them which I think totally hosed up their ability to root. I finally dug them up and cut off as much of the pots as I could but it was too late for this season. Now I have a long off-season to wait and pray that I did enough amending to prevent this stuff from rotting in the ground over the winter 
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Sep 24, 2020 18:33
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Oil of Paris posted:daaamn that looks great man! such strong growth from the initial planting, a real nice mix of color and texture Thanks! I'm lucky that most of what I wanted to plant this season is super drought tolerant. Everything else got absolutely hammered but the stuff in that bed was happy to get roasted. Oil of Paris posted:hah thank you! i really just appreciate anything that has multi-season interest, bc im just too lazy to have one of those bulb gardens or something where youve gotta do actual research and planning for max blooms every season. I have a garden that I share with my neighbor that I planted for flowering but I mostly select for foliage. Around half of what I planted is evergreen because I don't want a depressing brown blob in the winter. It makes shopping for plants online a little weird because the pictures are always focused on the flowers and I just want to see what the rest of the plant looks like. I didn't put in many shrubs this year but next year I'm planning to start doing some planting along my fence line where I put in some trees this year so I'll be shrub shopping. I know I want to get a Corylus avellana 'Contorta' (Harry Lauder's Walking Stick) and probably a Heptacodium miconioides, which I guess are both actually small trees, but I'm not sure what else. I have a really hard time finding shrubs that have interesting foliage and can survive our winters, so if you have any clever ideas (I'm in zone 6a) I'm all ears. Everyone around here seems to just be planting Arborvitae and Buxus for that mall parking lot aesthetic  .
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Sep 25, 2020 13:54
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Oil of Paris posted:lol the first thing that came to mind is a plant that I'm currently probably killing: Enkianthus campanulatus. It would be much happier in zone 6 than my hot as gently caress zone 7 I hadn't looked that closely at the requirements for Stachyurus praecox after the first few results said zone 7+ but it sounds like it might be able to squeak by here if I can shelter it. Marginal stuff makes me a bit nervous, though. I planted a trio of (ostensibly) cold-hearty crepe-myrtles that I'm going to spend all winter worrying about hoping they don't die back to the ground. Oil of Paris posted:daphne translatica would be a great addition too since they have much welcome winter blooms, but much like the stachyurus would need protection from the winter winds. the only issue with daphnes is that they are not long lived plants at all but at least have the decency to die quickly and decisively instead of lingering on These have really nice foliage for an evergreen though it sounds like it's probably deciduous here (boo). 15 years seems like a decent run for a shrub.
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Sep 28, 2020 14:16
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Ghost Cactus posted:Edit: I prefer to have them inside - so any dirt de-molding suggestions are welcome. The internet says cinnamon works? I’ll probably trim and re-pot them in fresh dirt this weekend. Neem oil should definitely do it.
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Oct 4, 2020 00:56
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Oil of Paris posted:Very pleased with the umbrella magnolia, I've wanted one for a little while now but its either been out of stock or outrageously expensive. I love the way these look but every time I see large-leaved magnolias at nurseries around here they look like poo poo, I'm guessing because they aren't that well suited to the climate even if they can survive here. You growing any umbrella pines in there? I guess those are big needles in the wrong direction.
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Oct 6, 2020 15:06
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I learned today that the red fruit on the Cornus kousa I planted earlier this year is edible and it tastes pretty alright. I had no idea.
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Oct 7, 2020 15:40
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Sarah Bellum posted:I originally posted this in the wrong thread, so please allow me to quote myself. Some Eryngium varieties might meet a few of your criteria (spiky/weird/purple); leavenworthii flowers extremely purple. There are both purple and white flowering Echinops with relatively unusual flowers. There are some really beautiful Allium that flower in deep burgundy—I just planted some amethystinum a couple of weeks ago. Hylotelephium telephium (aka Sedum telephium) has deep red/purple foliage and flowers pretty high. There are some gorgeous Sempervivum that are extremely dark and/or purple if you're into that kind of thing. Euphorbia 'nothowlee' has really striking dark foliage and unusual flowers; here's a picture of a little one I have in my garden since I have it handy: As far as near black shrubs go there are some Physocarpus opulifolius cultivars that might work though it could be a little hot for them where you are. Loropetalum chinense ‘Dark Fire’ (and probably a number of other cultivars) has both dark foliage and striking red blooms. That's all I got. Good luck! Wallet fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Oct 10, 2020 |
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Oct 10, 2020 22:04
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Ok Comboomer posted:Also saw some purple and dark-dark green morphs of those chunky little Jello Jiggler Haworthias that seem to be having a small moment right now at the plant store this weekend. Maybe worth keeping an eye open. Is a jello jiggler just one of the Haworthia with fat/semi-transparent leaves like retusa var. springbokvlakensis or cooperi var. truncata or something or is there a new cultivar with a really stupid name? Wallet fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Oct 12, 2020 |
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Oct 12, 2020 17:47
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