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Bubbacub posted:How can dogge use DLSR without thumbs? My Olympus TG-1 has a dog mode that will automatically take a picture when it detects a dog's face. It works, actually.
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Jun 24, 2015 02:25
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rolleyes posted:Probably a very basic question, but anyway. Regarding picture presets, do they have any effect at all on the raw output or does it only modify JPEG images produced in-camera? I always shoot raw-only and assumed they were irrelevant. You've got it right -- it just affects the embedded JPEG in the RAW file, which is what you see on the back of the camera, by the way.
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Jul 4, 2015 16:08
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Some dude had a 40d in the buy/sell thread for like $250. Buy that and either an 18-55 or a tamron 17-50 or something
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Jul 9, 2015 12:45
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Also take a look at the 6D. When I was looking for a backup body to my 5D3, I was looking at the 5D2 and the 6D. I ended up going to with the 6D for the newer sensor tech and the better AF system. The price was about the same -- I found a great condition 6D with grip and 2 batteries and a low shutter count for less than any 5D2 I was seeing. The joystick is gone, which kind of sucks, but there is a multicontroller built in to the under-thumb scroll wheel that does pretty much the same thing, which is nice. The wifi/gps, video modes, screen, etc are just bonuses. I wasn't too worried about losing 1/5000, 1/6000, and 1/8000, nor was I really worried about only using SD cards. If those things are important to you, you're not going to go wrong with the 5D2, either.
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Jul 22, 2015 13:19
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Tricerapowerbottom posted:Got a 6D with the 24-105 /4 after much time deliberating, massive upgrade from my T2i for both family/ dick pics, and my stacked macro stuff. Enjoying the hell out of it so far I have the 568EX II and the YN-622C wireless triggers. It's been painless using them -- the 5D3 and 6D's in-camera flash menu system works flawlessly with the triggers and flash. Wireless HSS is freaking awesome. I used the hell out of it most recently shooting promotional stuff at a Spartan Race. It did really well shooting for 8+ straight hours in the heat. It overheated once around 2pm at the hottest part of the day when I was shooting full power high-speed sync blasts over and over with a fresh set of batteries, but calmed down pretty quickly. I've used it as on-camera fill at weddings, and the TTL worked well both bare, bounced, and with a modifier.
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Jul 28, 2015 21:57
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rolleyes posted:Serious and not-intended-to-be-trolling question: if you don't have a DSLR and are thinking of getting one, be it crop or full frame, is there anything to recommend Canon over Nikon? Canon's lenses are pretty dope. AFAIK, Nikon doesn't really have anything equivalent to Canon's 50mm f/1.2 or 85mm f/1.2. The tilt-shift lenses are pretty legendary as well. Also, Canon has tended to be a little ahead of the curve in terms of video features. But really, whichever you like better is going to be fine. As someone with a lot invested in Canon, I don't think there's anything in the system that I couldn't live without, or anything that Nikon does better that'd be worth it for me to switch. You really can't go wrong with either. dakana fucked around with this message at 12:15 on Jul 31, 2015 |
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Jul 31, 2015 12:13
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Bubbacub posted:The Sigma is a fantastic lens. My only criticisms with it are a slight amount of CA and a relatively pokey AF, which would probably be solved by upgrading to the Canon. After over a year of owning it, I'm still blown away every time I zoom in to 100% on a shot at f1.4. I agree about the AF, but the CA is pretty mild compared to the 85 1.8 or 50 1.2.
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Aug 29, 2015 03:00
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Note that that's the IS II and the 2x III. That's pretty much the best-available combination if you're going the 70-200 w/ 2x TC route. The 70-200 2.8 (non-IS) and the 2x II teleconverter is significantly worse, and the AF will be slower. Canon touts a big improvement with the IS II lenses and III teleconverters. I have the 70-200 2.8 IS II and the 2x III teleconverter, and can tell you it's OK, image quality wise. AF is pretty snappy on my 5D Mark III -- fast enough for high school sports. If you just want as much reach as you can get for a decent price, 100% buy the 400 5.6. It's like half the cost of the 70-200 2.8 IS II and 2x III. The only reason I have that combo is because I use the hell out of the 70-200 alone, found a good deal on the 2x III, and had a use for it for sports.
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Sep 22, 2015 01:16
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Alpenglow posted:If anyone is curious about durability, and whether a 6D and 24-70/4 can survive a fall... out of a semi truck... Jesus. That's nuts. I knocked my 1D Mark III off a table with my brother's 24-70 2.8L (version I) attached, and the 24-70 ended up needing like $400 in repairs. Camera body was fine. Most recently, my R-Strap managed to untwist from the tripod foot on my 70-200 while it was attached to my 5d3, but luckily it fell off while I was standing on turf, so it knocked a screw loose under the "Canon" on the body and changed my mode dial, but otherwise everything was fine. MMD3 posted:looking into selling my Canon kit to a friend and am trying to figure out what reasonable used prices are. I'd put everything into KEH and take a reasonable percentage off. Also, Fred Miranda's buy & sell and Photography-on-the.net's buy & sell forums can be decent metrics. KEH is worth a bit of a premium because of their reputation and warranty -- for example, a used 50 1.2 might go for ~$1250 on there, but a similar condition one might go for $1000 on FM or POTN.
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Oct 16, 2015 21:21
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I just bought the Canon 50 1.2, and it's taking a whole lot of camera time away from my Sigma 35 1.4. I'm evaluating the Canon 24 1.4 in my next wedding to see if I'd maybe want to swap the 35 for the 24, though. I've done a few family sessions and the 50 rarely left the camera. It's a tough choice, though, because my 35 has been just an absolute workhorse.
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Nov 7, 2015 05:06
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I like the way the 1.2 renders OOF areas  Also, I got a good used deal on it. Also, and probably most importantly, CPS will service it cheaply, quickly, and give me a loaner if I need one, and that's worth it to me.
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Nov 9, 2015 23:59
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Ryand-Smith posted:So I'm looking at getting the 7DmkII, and while my 17-50 2.8 lens has treated me well, I would like a bit more reach, and now I'm looking at the 15-85 3.5-5.5 and/or the 17-70 Sigma. I can get the canon glass pretty cheap used everywhere at 400bucks, so selling my 17-50 will pay for most of it, but has anyone in here used any of that glass? Second question, I'm looking for a ttl flash for the 7D, does anyone in here have any recommendations? I'd go for something like the 55-250 for more reach instead of expanding the zoom range of a single lens. For the 15-85 you're adding 2/3rd stop on the wide end and 2 stops on the close end, which is going to reduce the amount of light and subject isolation you get. The 17-70 will reduce the light by a stop on the long end. For the TTL flash, you can go nuts with the Canon 430EX-III or get more flash for less money with the Yongnuo 568EX II.
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Jan 25, 2016 02:16
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I use the 6D as a remote at basketball games -- putting it up 10 feet in the air and then wirelessly controlling the focus and exposure on my phone over the course of a triple-header is bananas and I love it.
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Feb 6, 2016 04:20
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Anubis posted:Does anyone do the Canon Professional Services Gold or Platinum? I found I qualify and am tempted, as it would work as a mild maintenance plan with an added benefit of a flat yearly rate to test gear before I buy. Not sure how generous they are on loaning stuff to gold level but just curious about other people's experience with it. I'm on Gold. It's really nice to have the clean & checks, and the repair discount is helpful in justifying the expense. From September of 2014 to now, I've borrowed 4 different lenses -- the 24 Tilt-Shift, 135 f/2, 50 f/1.2, and 24 f/1.4. They've always been really easy to work with, and have let me specify dates when there's availability -- I sent an email in February requesting a specific weekend in April, for instance, and they've hit the delivery date every time. A week after they approved my 70-200 2.8 IS II loan, I bought one, and they switched the lens to the 50 1.2 on my request, no problem. I tried to evaluate the 11-24 back in November but it was super backlogged, so they just asked if I wanted to try something different that time, as well -- that's when I evaluated the 24 1.4. I had no idea about the CPS discount on gear. That's nuts! Most of my purchases have been used gear, but that's good to know...
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Feb 12, 2016 17:45
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Laserface posted:Cross post from automotive photography thread: I'd go for the 85 1.8. Aperture won't cause blur; you'll have more than enough DoF at 1.8 from the distance you're shooting. The larger reason you'd have blur is because of too low of a shutter speed or because the autofocus on the 50 1.8 can't keep up. The AF on the 85 1.8 is fantastic, and the lens is a terrific value.
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Feb 22, 2016 01:11
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If you're already paying ~$600, I'd pay another $200 or so and get the Sigma 24 1.4.
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Mar 15, 2016 19:13
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Odette posted:Any pics of the 6D side by side with any of the 5D variants? I'm interested in the small details. I have a 5D3 and a 6D -- what in particular are you looking for?
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Mar 22, 2016 01:43
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astr0man posted:5D3 has a full magnesium alloy body, 6D doesn't Odette posted:Oh yeah, I keep forgetting that bit. Wifi wouldn't work otherwise. It's just a scootch smaller, too. Somewhat noticeable in the hand, but not really in a bad way.  
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Mar 23, 2016 18:33
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I can't imagine it'll actually be 9fps like Canon Rumors alleges, but god drat would it rule if it was.
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Jul 22, 2016 23:33
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Yeah, I moved from. The 1d3 to the 5d3 a few years ago as I transitioned from mostly sports and journalism with some weddings and portraits to mostly weddings and portraits with some sports. I miss the 10fps a lot in baseball and football especially - a lot of times I'll juuuuust miss the critical moment of a catch that I used to get at 10fps.
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Jul 23, 2016 16:03
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that's just how ultra wide angle lenses work 
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Aug 4, 2016 21:27
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I was shooting f/1.4 and wanted my stupid large softlighter really close to the subject I was photographing and even at the lowest power my AB800 was like 3-4 stops too bright. I just used my speedlight instead at 1/128, but I would have had to otherwise ND the strobe or (less preferably) my lens.
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Aug 9, 2016 17:09
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Odette posted:These patents are strange. quote:This L lens would be a fast wide-angle telephoto zoom that seems perfect for the 2018 Winter Olympics Yeah, no. It'll likely have mediocre image quality, no one likes variable aperture, and 5.6 is not fast. You don't have to compromise if you're photographing the Olympics. You can use your 400 f/2.8 and 600 f/4
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Aug 19, 2016 17:23
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I use a 5D3 and 6D right now, and I don't think I'll be upgrading any time soon. I shoot primarily weddings with a healthy dose of sports and portraits thrown in, and while the AF upgrade and frame rate increase would be nice for sports, I don't think it's a large enough jump for me to justify right now. Video AF is cool as hell, but all my video projects are just hobby-level. It looks like a solid camera and a good incremental upgrade. I bet people will be upset about the 4K only being motion jpeg, though.
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Aug 25, 2016 18:50
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:Only internal recording as well, if I'm understanding the press release correctly? Yeah, sounds like HDMI out is only up to 1080p, not 4k. SMERSH Mouth posted:Is motion JPEG really all that bad, now that 64 and even 128 GB cards are coming into widespread use? It's supposed to have better image quality than other compressed video codecs, right? (I know nothing about DSLR video.) It's not terrible, but it'd be nice to have the option of different encoding so if you're recording an hour-long interview you don't need a 256gb card.
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Aug 26, 2016 00:25
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It should be the 5D Mark 3.5
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Aug 31, 2016 02:28
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I can't say I'm that surprised. You come real close to cannibalizing the 1dxii if you push the frame rate any higher, and you undermine the huge dedicated Canon video line if you give it better video. The main 5D line is in a great jack of all trades role. It does a lot of things really well, but I don't think it's the best available at any one of those things.
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Sep 9, 2016 16:29
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durk onion posted:I'm thinking of buying a full frame body and I'd like to spend $1000 or less. Should I get a 5dii or a 6d? Or should I wait for a 6dii to come out to pick up the original 6d? I imagine a 6dii isn't too far out. I'd get a 6D if it's between that and the 5DII. You'll probably be fine with its autofocus if the light is halfway decent and you're shooting with a good lens, but it's nothing to write home about. It's the same deal with the 5DII's AF. You could spend ~$1600-$1700 and snag a 5D3 which will make all your dreams come true, though.
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Sep 18, 2016 20:26
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Piquai Souban posted:The pro move is to wait for 3rd party battery grips to come out rather than get the Canon one, right? I dunno. Sometimes? Other times the 3rd party grips suck and if you grip them wrong the battery terminals lose connection and your camera shuts off. I bit the bullet and bought a used Canon one.
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Sep 20, 2016 18:21
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um excuse me posted:I've had third party grips for all of my cameras. A few of them felt better than Canon grips. I've had 4 now, all Zeikos brand and they've all been great. The 60D grip was the best. I bought a used 6D that came with a Zeikos grip and I can't use it because holding it too tightly will separate the body from the grip enough that it'll shut off the camera. That's wit hit tightened all the way down. Must be a YMMV type of thing.
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Sep 20, 2016 21:41
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Bizzaro Quik posted:Local seller is selling their 6D for $775. Are prices on these dropping because of the 5DIV? Probably, yeah -- 5D3 prices are definitely dropping. Before the 5D4, usually 5D3 prices were around $1800 and 6D around $1000; now that 5D3 prices are down around $1650 and sometimes lower, 6D prices have dropped as well to maintain the same relative price differential.
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Sep 21, 2016 13:59
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Yeah, if the price difference is only a hundo, I'd opt for the newer lens. They'll continue servicing it for longer, and hopefully it'll be more durable.
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May 2, 2017 20:38
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anatoliy pltkrvkay posted:Eh, 6d2 looks like exactly what I'd want. Full frame, usable AF (compared to the joke system on the 6d1) with a low light center point, decent burst, tilty flippy screen, etc. I have little desire to take video since shooting video at concerts requires a proper audio setup also, and gently caress all that. My main gripe is that they're still stuck on the ergo split that they started after the 50d of not including a joystick on anything other than the pro models. The improved AF points are jack poo poo when you have to navigate them with garbage controls. on the 6d1 you can set AF selection to the multidirectional pad inside the wheel
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Jul 3, 2017 14:56
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blowfish posted:Still sucks if you use the 6D as a second body and a 5D/1D as a main. I run a 5D3 / 6D combo and never really have a problem switching between the two Then again in college I'd shoot with Canon & Nikon bodies at the same time and was fine with it.
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Jul 5, 2017 17:38
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anatoliy pltkrvkay posted:This works because the 6D/60D only have as many focus points as there are directions on the wheel (including the Set button). It fails if you have more than 7 AF points, though you could select zones I suppose. I'm not sure how well that would work for me, since I typically need to focus on a very small area with both a busy foreground and background, and I'm not confident on zone AF not selecting the thing I don't want. Experience with the 60D tells me that its phase AF is likely to choose the thing I don't care about (hey, a nearby microphone grill or somesuch! I love focusing on things with contrasty patterns, set focus to that instead of the mostly smooth face next to it!), and I figure zone AF would work similarly even if one point within it covers the thing I actually care about. You just press the direction you want the AF point to move to, and it moves there. If you need it to move farther, you press the button again. It's the same mechanism as using the joystick, except you're pressing buttons and not pushing a joystick. Use back-button focus. When you want to change your AF point, just press the controller. Also, for whatever reason, you're not able to see it in Lightroom. Really obnoxious. You can view it in some Canon free software, or in the excellent Photo Mechanic.
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Jul 5, 2017 20:00
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TKIY posted:Yeah the only lens otherwise is the 24mm f/1.4L II. Sigma makes a 24mm f/1.4 in their Art series. It owns real hard and rarely leaves my camera. They also make a 20mm 1.4A but I haven't tried it. I shoot mostly primes for weddings -- my most used lenses are the 24 1.4A, 50 1.2L, and 85 1.8 (looking at either the Sigma 85 1.4A or Canon 85 1.2L, but god drat the 85 1.8 is such a good value that it's hard to justify).
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Aug 1, 2017 17:32
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IS is a godsend for wedding photographers during ceremonies. No one's really moving much, you typically can't use flash (and even if you could you rarely have time beforehand to set them up), halls are almost always dark, and it's nice to be able to lower the ISO a bit for some shots. Three stops of stabilization is the difference between ISO3200 and ISO400. It's also helpful for stabilizing the vertical axis during panning in motor- and other sports. It's a complete game-changer for video work, and it's really nice to have when you're using a telephoto because otherwise it's shake city.
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Aug 31, 2017 12:51
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ijyt posted:Cool, will keep an eye out for some good deals. Speaking of good deals I just found a 50 1.2 for £680, is it actually a good deal though? I've always coveted the 1.2 and half retail seems pretty cheap for L glass. Plus, weather sealing so no fear of the London rain. That's about what I paid (converting 680 pounds to USD) for a great condition used 50 1.2 in the US.
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Dec 17, 2017 00:46
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I had a 1D Mark III for a few years and switched to the 5D Mark III when I started doing more weddings and portraits than sports. I made the switch almost 5 years ago and I still miss that huge, solid machine gun of a camera.
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Dec 19, 2017 15:35
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akadajet posted:I have a 5D IV and a 70D. I think the 70D's shutter button feels nicer. Not sure why they make the 5D's button so mushy. The lower-end bodies have the clicky shutter button which can feel nice, but it's also susceptible to breaking. It's a plastic mechanism. My Digital Rebel XT's button crapped out on me twice after heavy use. My 1D3, 5DIII, and 6D have "mushy" buttons, but they also have better weather-sealing and more durability. I'd guess it's a membrane-type mechanism that's sealed better and lasts longer. I had my Rebel's button replaced under warranty but it broke again a year or two later just because of heavy use. I've used my other bodies even more heavily but haven't had any issues with them. I've had surprisingly bad luck with shutter buttons -- the XT died twice, and I've also had a third-party batter grip's button get wonky on me.
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Jan 10, 2018 16:28
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