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joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.
Looking at buying our first DSLR. Have some SLR experience. Would be shooting birds and animals, macro, long exposures, landscapes, some sports. In the approximately $500 range. How much better is a 7D ($400 body)going to be than a T6 (500 kit with two lenses)?
Don't have any compatible lenses.

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joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.

el dorito posted:

Which two lenses?

This is very important.

EF-S 18-55mm IS II and EF 75-300mm III

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.

Mirage posted:

Just gonna pop in and say don't get the T6. The lenses are fine (low end, but fine), but the camera is pretty limited and I don't think you'd go long before hitting its limitations.
I'm definitely leaning toward the 7D. The differences I can see between the two are the 7D has a higher shutter speed (1/8000 vs 1/4000), better continuous shooting (8fps vs 3) more AF points (19 vs 9) (what does that mean, anyway?) and environmental sealing.
It looks like the T6 has an incrementally newer processor (digic 4+ vs digic 4) but only one vs the 7D's two.
What limitations am I likely to run into? Is it the stuff above (burst, AF, processing) or something else about the camera?

Also, what/how do I check for in an eight year old DSLR before deciding to buy it?

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.

President Beep posted:

So, like, it's a novelty lens that's actually a USB drive? It's a real lens but the images are stored in a USB drive in the lens body?

I don't grok this...

I think its a USB drive that looks like a miniature 5D Mk IV camera with a miniature 24-70 lens (like the one that comes with the real 5DMkIV) Neither the miniature lens nor the miniature camera work; it's just a USB drive.

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.
The Rat takes gorgeous landscapes.
Also, each picture has a gun in it. Can you find it?

E: Maybe this link (and then "posts by this user") will work better?

joat mon fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Oct 22, 2017

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.

hope and vaseline posted:

Seriously dudes with joysticks, the greatest joy about it is being able to switch your AF point easily while your face is glued to the camera. My 40d used to be a setting somewhere where that was its default behavior, without having to press the AF selection button. The multi controller on the 80D serves a similar function but its positioned in a spot that doesn't feel natural to use while you're actively shooting.

What is the advantage of moving the AF point with the joystick vs. spot focusing, locking it with a half shutter press and then composing your picture?

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.

President Beep posted:

Also, I suppose if you’re doing a landscape/still life shot or something on a tripod and you want to focus on a specific thing that isn’t in the middle of your frame being able moving your focus point could be handy

Having the camera locked in was one of my caveats, and I've used the joystick to set focus points for still macro shots for stacking.
Using servo AF was another caveat, but I don't think you'd be selecting focus points with the joystick for that application (tracking movement) either.

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.
I hope your cat's name is Seurat.

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.
Wondering if the difference between:
-Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 DI VC USD (IS, USM) for $800 used
and
-Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM II at $1200 used
or
-Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 DI VC USD G2 at $1200
or
-Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 Sports at $1200

Is worth the 50% greater price? Money is a concern, $1200 is out of budget but could be stretched to.
Main goals; First, better low-light performance (indoor sporting events) and second, better sharpness.
Current lens: Tamron 18-270 f/3.5-6.3
on a 7D

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.

BeastOfExmoor posted:

There's a G2 that just went up on Fred Miranda for $875 if you want to pull the trigger now.
https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1659818

Thank you so much!

Any suggestions/warnings for a Luddite on buying expensive stuff person-to-person over the internet via paypal?

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.

BeastOfExmoor posted:

That person has a pretty extensive feedback history and Paypal theoretically insures you against scams, so I wouldn't be too worried on that end. If you have a new FredMiranda account you may have a harder time getting them to trust you, so you may need to figure that out.

Yes, their reviews allayed my concerns. After that and some reading up on Paypal, I'll have a new lens in a few days. :dance: Thanks again for the heads up.

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.
I thought full frame was better for macro too, at least with regard to keeping diffraction at bay?

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joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.
I've recently upgraded from a 7D to an RP. When I use my Tamron 2.8 70-200 G2 with a Canon EF adapter and a Canon 1.4x extender, the widest aperture shown for the lens is f5.6.
I know using the extender costs a stop.

Should the lens still go to 2.8 and I then have to take into account that the extender is costing a stop?
It seems right to me that the lens should still be able to physically open to 2.8 regardless of the presence of an extender.

Or does the lens take into account the presence of the extender and 'take out' a stop automatically? If so, why is it taking out two stops?

Displayed aperture range for the lens without the extender is 2.8 - 22, and with the extender, 5.6-45, fwiw.

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