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down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

mobby_6kl posted:

I had to uninstall Vantage from my Thinkpad because of our IT policy (they say it's conflicting with something) but the battery saving mode was left turned on so it only charges to 80% as I set it before. Sometimes I need it full though, is there another way to change this setting without Vantage?

Vantage simply exposes the UEFI (bios) settings AFAICT so entering the bios to turn off "battery optimization" should work.

Don't, though. The 80% thing is a good thing. It really helps the longevity of the battery.

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down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies
As much as I complain about fixing Surface anything, they are very good hardware and you should always consider it when thinking of tablets. IMO

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies
Depends on heat and build quality anymore. Fine for 2 years probably. Wrecked after 3-5, likely. Unplug the battery at 50% charge, unless you're gaming or traveling with it

(note: no one does this, but it should be what we all aspire to.)

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

Kin posted:

I got my Dell xps15 laptop battery replaced a month or two back, but things still aren't quite right.

I've only fully charged it about twice since then (i don't use it much), but both times it's dropped from about 40% remaining power to <10% and both times it's been immediately after starting up the laptop.

I'm also getting error messages for the charger with the top saying it's not recognised and I should plug in a 130w charger.

It seems to be charging (looks like about 1% every 2 minutes or so, which would be a full charge in about 2 to 2.5 hours) so i dunno if the charger is actually broken.

For replacing that though, would any Dell laptop charger from Amazon do?

Sounds like a dead cell and a power jack issue, or yeah your adapter may be dying. Does it have USB-c charging?

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

change my name posted:

My GF has been waffling on getting a new laptop for a while (literally an entire year) and it 1) had to be able to play BG3, 2) had to be 15" (preferably without a numpad), 3) had to be thin and light, and 4) had to cost less than $650. We finally pulled the trigger on a refurbished 2020 AMD Omen 15 with a 1660ti for $570 as that seemed to satisfy every requirement apart from weight. Unfortunately it looks like HP stopped pushing out model-specific graphics drivers for it, and using Nvidia's stock drivers disables automatic switching between the iGPU and dedicated graphics to maximize battery life.

Is she leaving a ton of performance on the table by using older, less optimized drivers or is it not worth worrying about?

It's probably noticeable performance, yeah. Is it visible as two display adapters? Can you disable the 1660ti and just enable it when it's needed for bear sex?

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

Hadlock posted:

I'm pretty staunchly anti apple for personal devices (my work laptop is an Apple tho) but now that the iPad has USB-C it's a great device. It even has mouse and keyboard support, Bluetooth and USB. We got an iPad Air at the beginning of the pandemic with the USB-C and it's just always been a joy to use. And it doesn't have a weird proprietary charging connector so I can just charge it with the same cable I use for my phone, laptop, headphones, Nintendo

I'm legit impressed that Apple did something in a "normal" way for once. (my cynical brain thinks there's gotta be random bullshit Apple limits somewhere, like it only puts out 200mv or some nonsense about why it doesn't quick charge on a non apple transformer.)

It's been a LONG road to get to basic functionality of a data port! Grats!

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

Mental Hospitality posted:

Best bet would be to search the particular "model number + teardown". Odds are someone somewhere has prized off the bottom panel.

This is the right strategy. The word disassembly works too as a search term. Check Google and YouTube separately.

I wouldn't be surprised if it's all soldered, that's seems like a solid Razer play. How can we make our laptops even less reliable?

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

Worf posted:

the EU forced them to legally so lol

lol of course

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies
I think they want ports on the laptop lol

But for real, what you are describing is a laptop in general. Goon recommendations for general purpose trend towards business laptops. You're gonna hear a lot about thinkpads. Give us a budget and how much you care about new vs something used but bad rear end.

For brain-off cheap portables, consider used hp probooks or elitebooks. Thinner laptops will have less ports necessarily.

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies
Comedy macbook air 2017 option. They run win 10 pretty well, and macos sorta well for under $200.

Great keyboard too.

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

bull3964 posted:

No one should buy an intel based mac at this point. The Air 2017 is dead ended at Monterey and support for that is expected to end this year. Even for <$200 it's a bad use of funds. (I know you mentioned Windows 10, but that support is coming to an end soonish too.)

It's... You're... Ugh.

Intel macs were for sale until last year, Ventura is easy to patch, Windows 11 exists, Linux is rumored to be ready for desktops soon, it was a comedy option.

All this and still a worthless post about a computer exactly the same as a ThinkPad x1?

Suppose I should get rid of my trashcan pro and my 2016 imac since Monterey support is ending and thus the cpu doesn't do math now lol

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

AlternateNu posted:

I have a Lenovo X1 Carbon Gen 9, and my main USB-C power stopped taking a charge three months after getting the MB replaced because the power supply just blew up and fried the whole thing which happened 2 months after buying the drat thing. (At least the port still does data.)

Lenovo makes great machines (usually) but has some of the worst customer service on the planet. So, I just use the secondary USB-C port to charge it. :nallears:

It's fine for now, but in case you want to get it fixed Lenovo usually have great input protection in the form of polyfuses that are supposed to reset themselves but sometimes don't. It could be you just need a new one, or a new USB port controller; they absolutely can half die. Bet it doesn't output video or powers off your adapter. It doesn't touch low speed usb signals if designed right so you can put a memory stick in, but it'll only run at 2.0 speeds, generally.

Some repair shops do it, some do it cheap if rent is cheap, often they do it for way too much ($400+) and you should hang up. I do it for quite a lot of money ($275 in the bay area but you are encouraged to find some place local anyhow).

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

Magic City Monday posted:

I hosed up the LCD on my T14 G3 and need to replace it.

From what I understand, for ThinkPads, it's a pretty straightforward process right?

1. Figure out the model/part number for the panel I have/want and buy it on AliExpress.
2. Disconnect the battery
3. Pop off the plastic bezel around the panel
4. Pull off the adhesive tabs and remove the panel
5. Disconnect the 30 pin cable, connect it to the new panel
6. Put new adhesive strips on the panel and install it
7. Put the plastic bezel back on (may need additional adhesive for this)

That's pretty much it, right? All I really need is a new panel, some adhesive strips, and a pry tool?

Exactly. Wait on step 6 and 7. Connect it, place it, use the power adapter (no battery) so you can yank the power if you smell or see the blue smoke that sometimes shows up.

I love you. I believe in you. We are all rooting for you.

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

Lord Ludikrous posted:

I’m helping my parents have a clear out before they move home and I found my gaming laptop from 2004.



Behold the chonk.



I’ve got the power brick (and it really is a brick) but I need to get one of those three prong power cables before I can see if it still works.

My wife is somewhat confused as to why I’m taking it back with me but I can’t just toss this away.

Oh gods those were so hot and loud. I bet it's got....
an 18.5v 7.8A adapter and a 120gb 5400rpm PATA Hitachi with..... 2gb pc-2 5300.

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies
It's the slim part that gets you soldered on ram usually. Ram sockets are usually 6mm tall, which is too tall for modern "slim" designs.

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies
RAM seldom fails anymore. That said, it certainly does fail. Soldered on chips aren't impossible to replace. You are however, truly hosed for choice if you need to replace any soldered on ram, since you can't really tell which module died, you've got to replace all the modules. I suspect you can tell somehow, but I'm not sure how.

Also figure out why it died before anything. My general approach is to gamble with a dead donor board on eBay, pull the ram, any controllers nearby and the power supply for the ram and transfer everything over.

I have done this on two computers, ever. Both of them expensive macs. They both worked fine. I've done similar things with VRAM waaaaay more on the PC side, usually on a lenovo. Or loving razer.

buffbus posted:

Apple soldering storage is a problem because that's a wear item. It doesn't help that they don't use the highest endurance flash and their stingy defaults mean a lot of people run with high usage levels.

Yep, and they put the ssd controllers right next to the air intake "vents" on the left and right sides, essentially guaranteeing that moist air is sucked directly onto the buck controller for the 2.5v power supply. That power supply is a ball grid array (BGA) chip and the tiny little balls that feed a gentle 2.5v directly into the ssd are a fraction of a millimeter apart from the big bad 20v main power rail it uses as it's source.

Imagine you're a nice soggy piece of bagel or whatever that gets sucked up the vent, your chances of hitting this tiny little gap between the balls (lol) turns out to be about 100% given enough time and goony enough cave/wet backpack (macs crash in their sleep lol)

If you have a macbook pro 15" between 2016 - 2021(?) you have this issue. Or will have. Or already had.

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

thehandtruck posted:

Any reccomendations for a general laptop? Refurbished preferred and hopefully on Amazon cause it's easier to return if there's a problem. Price range is 300 350 ish bucks

Probook 440 g9 (or g8)
Latitude 5490

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies
wow that's a huge misstep.

it's not just out of stock, it just doesn't exist it seems.

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies
OK that makes more sense, thanks. Still an odd choice from my/our perspective.

Maybe it's just a bad marketing decision, maybe it's a excellent one for them. Good to know at least.

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies
Nah you're fine. It's all just language vagueness. There's parts that are glued on to the carbon fiber underside that stiffen it. Those are magnesium alloy usually. Or stainless. Sometimes just more plastic. There's a couple things you should really care about if you want a good frame:

The most important thing, and you really need to trust me on this, is do you like it? Second is does it feel good to type and track on?

That's basically all the thought you need to give if you're not getting cheap consumer poo poo. Most companies have figured out the body design. That said, read more for more info.

Consider while reading about materials, that the device is designed to be assembled completely and correctly. Usually to pretty specific torque, sandwiching many layers together. Blah blah holistic. Modern laptops absolutely use the motherboard itself to aid in flex. Thick motherboards have better heat properties too, sometimes. You can't really tell anymore what's inside without really pulling poo poo apart. There's an otherwise really nicely designed XPS that just eats it's own hinges up. The glued frame wasn't enough to stand up to the core i7 6th gen heat output.

Adding another layer again gives you the glorious bottom cover. The bottom cover on many cheaper or midrange laptops is quite well designed to very securely anchor everything, and is often vital to the flex of entire design, no matter what's inside. Touch your bottom cover, chances are it's of same or even higher quality than other parts of your laptop. Some really nice laptops the cover is just a cover, since the whole thing is aluminum or whatnot (apple, some xps, etc)

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

RestingB1tchFace posted:

No. It was one of the first generations of Macbook. One of the black polycarbonate models. Think it was a 2007 production model....and I probably bought it in late 2008 or early 2009.

Oh, your inverter probably died. They all did that eventually. Reeeeeally bright screen though, compared to everything else out there. Good with the bad. You can find pictures of people's clutch cover melting lol. I may have some.

On those it was always the inverter, the screen cable, or the hinges. Sometimes the magsafe. The idea of this Mac was great but the execution ended up with a lot of annoyed everymen in my shop saying apple should stand for better quality. They were right. Lots of adhesive problems, plastic crumbling, hinge snapping, so many dead power supplies/magsafe, and gobs of heat from the (pretty decent at the time) CPU. That drat dvd drive too. The next version "unibody" plastic design was loving genius and set the stage for a pretty huge upgrade in laptop design worldwide, and persists to this day. It commands a price still I think.

drat the macbook, all hail the macbook!

Still, you have the last black Mac out there. Bring back black Mac.


=====

My professional "keep a device as long as possible" advice is to *only* buy macs used, or if you have the privilege and can do it: buy new with a good credit card (to get the card's extended warranty). Also, ideally, be in education to get a 10% (?) discount that helps offset the pricey full warranty that you will absolutely need as well.

Buying used from a trusted ebay company is cool and good. You are taking money from Tim Apple this way also.

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

Flipperwaldt posted:

I had a real headscratcher with my nephew's I think Legion 5 recently, where it would boot to a black screen. Clearly the panel still worked, because it would show all the pre Windows stuff. I was halfway into downloading the newest gpu drivers after connecting an external monitor, when his penny dropped and he sheepishly turned up the screen brightness. Apparently you can turn the backlight down until it's off? What the hell is that good for? Thanks Lenovo for making us both look like fools.

Some of us consider that a good feature! I pressed the button, it should get DIMMER DAMMIT.

Use cases: A streamer could use it for their ingest, or a goon could use it as a porn torrent box, and with the option of dimming the screen fully to black, you can have instant "wake" for conserving a bit of power on road trips where you only need music playing....

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies
Yeah that's the one slope you want to ski down. Forgo extra ssd or cpu power, ram if it's not soldered. Always spend to your budget first focusing on GPU primarily as your target (assuming it's for gaming.) with future upgrades in mind. (You can sell a 256GB SSD that comes with the base version.... That's $20 towards a new, fast Samsung 2TB etc)

The second consideration should be the seller for easy returns, tied with the payment method (use a good credit card) for a free warranty extension (its a gaming laptop, it's not long for this world)

RAM is third most important, CPU should be fourth. For gaming, mind.

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies
Does this laptop have upgradeable RAM/SSD/WIFI/GPU? (Oh good, another down1nit know it all post! Please tell me if these get too out of control.)

When I want to get people off the phone, but also give correct advice for this exact question, I use part numbers + videos/pictures. If someone is calling about an Apple, the call ends quickly and I can get back to work.

You may get exact part numbers from searches online, but sometimes you have to look at it IRL or, importantly, a video or picture of someone else's. Turns out people take pics and vids of all the time for that youtube money. There's usually at least one disassembly on youtube (search on youtube.com please, google doesn't show youtube's "relevant results" which are often key) for every model, or family member. A family member in this case will often be similarly numbered/titled, eg e6400 vs e6410, or DT-1002 vs. DT-1003 and will generally have similar or identical boards*

HP PartSurfer will usually list the part number (or general family at least) of every component on your HP/HPE machine. Sometimes there will be no number, but instead a keyword to search other sites for. Search for a picture of the "system board" or "main" board name on ebay, aliexpress, alibaba, or google. You can then see specifically if your exact board has sockets or not. Ordering from HP is either a great value, or horrendously overpriced. Buyer beware, but do be excited if you find a deal (HP have strange discounts on their own parts sometimes)

Dell search under "configured system" for the same strategy, after entering a service tag. You cant buy much from Dell, maybe a battery or charger.

Every other manufacturer: search for your model number and "disassembly" on youtube, google, OR search the model on ebay and filter for the "parts" category.

I will absolutely vouch for a youtube disassembly video as being trustworthy enough. In an annoying "trust but verify" sense, I will also search partsurfer or dell.com for even more information, hoping to get the SPECIFIC PART NUMBER ALWAYS IF I CAN, because:

(*)companies can simply choose to not place a SODIMM slot and its supporting components on the board (with a specific part number) if they want to charge less for a thing. They will do this, and then add 1 to a part number which will screw over your knowledge. There are boards, many of them without a populated SODIMM Right Angle Socket soldered where it clearly should be, that have different but similar part numbers and the exact same "Board Identifier" (eg LA-981P). Models with "customizable options" can sometimes have either one or two LPDDR sockets pre-populated, same ODM "Board Identifier" but different OEM part number. God drat it.
=========

That said, they all are fine at being fine, get the Think branded one, it looks as upgradeable as you can get anymore. You will generally get fingerprint hardware, or a Windows Hello camera array at least with business machines which is nice. This saves seconds of time throughout the day and will be appreciated. I think most Think branded poo poo comes with better drivers/warranty/default windows install as well. Also a small amount of linux support, generally, probably not for this one lol. I should shut up and let the lenovo nerds chime in.

I would usually recommend last year's version of whatever you're getting, if you're getting a "cheapie".

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

Hadlock posted:

eBay laptop refurbished resellers come in two flavors

99.9% positive feedback, over 1000 reviews
Everybody else

I've been recommending only the first since the dawn of this thread, and never had someone come in and complain about following the two rules about the first type of seller

Usually the price delta is less than $10 between the two sellers

eBay is so greedy I have no idea how these resellers stay in business. Volume and quality I guess.

Kinda want to see behind the scenes in the reseller world.

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

~Coxy posted:

I don't think there's that much to it.

Go to disposal auctions and bid on huge pallets of ex-office laptops and SFF.

Re-Install Windows on each one. Junk anything that doesn't work.

List individually on eBay.

You can make any process sound easy by typing it like that. It's obvious that's what's happening... I want to see HOW it's done. Show me a room filled with a pallet of laptops, chargers, boxes, QA people etc. Let's see the checklist, the returns pile, the blacklisted pallet sellers, shipping setup, box supplier relationships etc. Like a Wendover or Practical Engineering, but for these amazing humans who keep us supplied with cheap, good laptops.

down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

MeruFM posted:

Has anyone used an LG Gram?

I'm looking at this and it seems okay for a pretty specialized (lightweight 2 in 1) laptop.
https://www.lg.com/us/laptops/lg-16t90sp-k.adb9u1-gram-laptop

Intel Ultra 7 155
16" OLED
32gb + 2tb SSD
2-in-1
3.1 lb
"Free" usb monitor

Only issues are small-ish battery, 77 Wh.

It seems like a decent Macbook Air 15 alternative but I already have a mac for work and would rather get something that I can draw or play games on for a personal device.

I always need to bring 2 laptops so they can't be behemoths.

The only reason I'd consider a Gram is for the weight. LG go very hard on making it light: sometimes that's what you need. 2.2 lbs is tiny.
This thing is 3.1 lbs. That's still super tiny for what you get, but it's not 2.2lbs.

The 14" is the poo poo. This one will probably be the poo poo too, but big and heavy. Like a luxury pickup truck.

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down1nit
Jan 10, 2004

outlive your enemies

Lockback posted:

Wattage OTA.

I think the BT is to make it chirp so you can find it primarily, and to display what I assume is a totally unnecessary dashboard.
If it uses an app I usually just assume it's to sell the data they collect

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