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RagingTaco posted:What advantages does a longer chef knife add? I currently use a 7" POS and haven't yearned for anything much larger. Tiny counters also limit my space and I don't want to be stabbing everything near the cutting board. More real estate for slicing which is important for more fragile things so that you can cut in one swoop instead of changing directions. More real estate just for prep, you can prep more in one go with a larger blade than you can with a small one. A larger blade feels more stable to me, too. It's not going to be affected by the thing you're cutting very much. If you need something small and nimble, that's what the paring knife is for. Chef's knife is for everything else. Don't get a blade that is longer than your cutting board though. 
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Oct 4, 2013 01:31
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nwin posted:I've got a global 8" chefs knife that I've had for about 6 years now. I use a sharpmaker on it but even with diamond rods, I've never been able to emulate the sharpness it had out of the box or when I sent it out to get professionally sharpened. Japanese water stones are the best ways to do this. There are a few options and it can be as basic or as complicated as you want it to be. Generally you only really NEED one stone if you only have to do basic resharpening. Something like a 1200 grit stone would be great for modest sharpening duty. If you need to remove nicks or do any tip repair or reprofiling you will want something more aggressive like a 500 or so and a 1200 for finishing. Then you can also polish as much or as little as you want. something in the 2500 range will give you a nice polish but the knife will still have a decent "bite". You can go up to 4k or 6k and further, even use strops and abrasive compounds for even sillier polish levels. Some people really like them, others think that it eventually gets so polished that the bite of the edge disappears and the knife isn't as pleasant to use. ymmv. You probably only really need a 1.2k grit stone to start though and build up your waterstone collection as you need. I have a bester 1.2k stone that I really like. http://www.chefknivestogo.com/bester1200.html It's great but it needs a good deal of soaking before using but the grit cuts well and is easy to use. A bit more convenient but also a skosh more expensive are shapton stones. They are ceramic stones that don't absorb the water so all you need to do is splash them with some water and get to sharpening. http://www.chefknivestogo.com/shgl10gr.html quote:As a second question, I'm quasi in the market for a new knife sometime in the next year. My cutting style is a lot of rocking...I don't really do much chopping up and down motion. What style would be preferred for this method? I know I gotta get my hands on some but I am just looking for recommendations based off what my style seems to be. Gyutos are good for rock chopping, specifically one with a good belly. You should decide if you want stainless or carbon steels and also what kind of handle you want. Also price range. from there a recommendation will be easier to give. quote:Also...third question. I've made Gordon Ramsey's crispy skin salmon and in the video, his knife just moves SO drat smooth through the skin. Not mine. It involves going over the same spot a few times and I usually get plenty of scales coming off with it. Not really sure if that's a question, but drat it's frustrating! You should descale the salmon before fileting.
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Oct 24, 2013 23:14
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Boris Galerkin posted:I just bought a 240mm Tojiro DP Gyuto from Amazon for $80, $20 cheaper than chefknivestogo.com. I use a paring knife to pare.
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Nov 18, 2013 07:23
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Disco Salmon posted:My husband decided to surprise me with a new bunch of kitchen knives...mostly Victorinox (sp), as well as some cutting boards, oil for the boards and a ceramic honer and an accusharp sharpener for the knives. Victorinox are stainless so you wont need to worry about oiling them. I'm not entirely sure, but I'm almost convinced that's what the "INOX" is at the end, since inox is generally short for "inoxydable" or "doesn't oxidize". Honing is truing the edge of the blade. For the victorinox, you will want to do this pretty much every time you use them. Here is a guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICUULOJ4DSI I would not use an accusharp. They're not very good. Though, I suppose they're better than nothing, and also beginner friendly. Some tips for free since you said you've never had nice knives before. Don't wash in the dishwasher. Don't keep them in the bottom of the sink with dirty dishes (surefire way to get cut). I would hand wash right after using and dry with a towel and put away. Not completely necessary for stainless knives since theyre pretty forgiving, but it's just a good thing to get in the habit of. Especially because if you default to washing, drying, and storing immediately then you are by default not doing the things you shouldn't be doing like dishwashering, sink soaking, leaving poo poo caked on them for long periods of time.
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Nov 25, 2013 06:56
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thespaceinvader posted:For the record, this is completely correct. Victorinox is a Swiss cutler, chiefly famous for being one of the two official brands of Swiss Army knife manufacturers. Well, at least until they bought the other one (Wenger), and are now the only official manufacturer. According to wiki anyway http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Victorinox hmmmmm. That's actually good to know, and changes the way I will furthermore pronounce "victorinox"
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Nov 26, 2013 00:43
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nwin posted:Alright, as indicated earlier I picked up the Shapton Pro 1k whetstone and it works great. Still fine tuning my technique, but spending a few minutes with each knife has yielded great results. I'd go 5k then start getting into compound loaded strops. For all you know you may be plenty happy with just 5k. That is considerably more polished than the average cool ever goes. Past 5k you lose the "bite" of the edge which some people like, some don't. GrAviTy84 fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Dec 1, 2013 |
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Dec 1, 2013 04:02
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Sir Spaniard posted:Regarding sharpening stones: I personally just own the one, and rarely use it, when my knives are in need of a more serious sharpening. I think the last time I actually used it was to give a quick rejig to my main "bruiser"/heavy use knife (a 28cm chef's knife) Usually I run it over a sharpening steel or if needed, a diamond steel. It depends on the knife. Many of my knives' steel is so hard it would shave the spines off of a honing steel. These also do not bend and flop like softer steel does, so it doesnt ever need honing so much as it needs a new edge.
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Dec 1, 2013 07:47
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Sir Spaniard posted:Any word on how hard/soft those Moritaka Hamano knives are? Can't wait till they arrive. (February is so far away.) I have a 240mm ao super gyuto moritaka. It owns so friggin hard. Holds a stupid sharp edge for weeks. Super light to weild. Love it. They are super hard. Also very carbon steel. Be sure to keep it dry and if you live somewhere humid, oiled.
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Dec 1, 2013 19:56
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Rurutia posted:What length of chef's knife should I get if I'm buying my first Tojiro DP? Is it just a matter of preference? I like 240mm
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Dec 6, 2013 03:37
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German knives are typically closer to 50-54 HRC. That is considerably softer and accounts for the difference in edge steepness. They just can't hold a usable aggressive edge. Because of the softness, they also cannot be thinned as aggressively. Sure they're sharp enough to do a hanging hair test, but the japanese knife is hard enough to hold a significantly sharper edge for significantly longer all with a thinner, and lighter blade. Some people, myself included, don't like the useless weight of a German knife. If I need the heft, I'll grab a cleaver, it's a better tool for the job anyway. GrAviTy84 fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Dec 11, 2013 |
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Dec 11, 2013 00:19
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ma i married a tuna posted:In any case, the idea that "they can't hold a usable edge" is flat out not true. I said can't hold a usable aggressive edge, not that they couldnt hold an edge at all.
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Dec 11, 2013 03:07
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great. now I'm GAS-ing for more knives. Thanks bombhand :P
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Jan 3, 2014 21:45
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revdrkevind posted:With guns you have your rifle, that's fine. But you could also get a shotgun. And your cousin knows a guy who can get an AR-15 for cheap, so that's a must. And you've always wanted to try a bolt-action sniper so you get a WWII piece. And ooh, a guy knows a guy that can get an AK that's modded to be legal. But you couldn't get an AK, that would just be... dirty... yanagi's arent like AK's. AKs are like...idk, maybe a wa deba. yanagi's are like buying an H&K. Wow so pretty, so awesome, so...expensive.
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Jan 7, 2014 00:06
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Canine Blues Arooo posted:Hi people who actually know things. tojiro dp is the standard entrylevel knife for those wanting to come to the land of Japanese Knives. It is stainless, made of the same material that Shun uses for their cores which comprise the cutting edge (damascus is entirely for looks and serves no functional purpose). http://www.chefknivestogo.com/todpchkn24.html If you're willing to be spergier, get a Tojiro ITK. They use Shirogami, a high carbon steel that can take a more aggressive edge than VG family steels (what the shun and DP are). The tradeoff is it is more brittle. Also has a Japanese style handle which some greatly prefer but others hate. I personally love Japanese handles. http://www.chefknivestogo.com/toshitk24wa.html Both of these are less than 100bux and will perform the same or better than a shun. If you absolutely must have damascus, check out the JCK gekko line. I have a JCK Gekko Gyuto and it was my first grownup knife. It is a fantastic knife. They are made OEM for a few companies like JCK and Togiharu etc.  gekko gyuto by gtrwndr87, on Flickr you can go quite a bit higher. above these, you're probably getting into Moritaka range but I wouldn't get a Moritaka as a firstknife. you'll want a waterstone or a few waterstones depending on how spergy you want to be. A 1200 k grit stone is a perfectly fine stone for touching up edges and mild reedging. You do not want a steel for japanese knives. If you absolutely must have a rod of some sort, get a ceramic honing rod. GrAviTy84 fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Jan 9, 2014 |
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Jan 9, 2014 00:11
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Steve Yun posted:No glass, no acrylic, no stone. Just plastic or wood. sanituff! fake edit: in b4 Chef de Cuisinart recs the San Jamar he always recs
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Jan 9, 2014 02:50
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Eccles posted:Seeing that the Shun 8 inch chef knife will run you all of $120 these days on amazon, one can hardly call it overpriced for a stainless clad VG-10 knife. If you like the Shun, buy the Shun. It is a well made knife. 8 inch is soooo small tho 
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Jan 9, 2014 04:51
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If you get aogami before its gotten a nice patina and chop a whole onion it will leave rust marks on your onions by the time you get to the 2nd half of the onion. Protip, if you get a carbon steel knife, buy a bag of onions and just mince them all before doing anything else. Lol
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Jan 9, 2014 07:07
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Transmetropolitan posted:So, if I supposedly get a blade made of aogami super, it is a good idea to "season" it, then? It will season itself, I think people baby their carbon steel too much personally. Like I said, just get a bag of onions and dice em all. Knife will be just right by the time you're done.
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Jan 9, 2014 20:56
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Invisible Ted posted:So I'm considering picking up a dedicated prep/vegetable knife. Been looking at japanese steel, but I don't really know what's good for prep. I would likely sharpen it on my waterstone at least once a week, if that changes anything. for 100% purely vegetable use you will want a nakiri. In stainless land you can't go wrong with the Tojiro DP http://www.chefknivestogo.com/todpna16.html There is also the Tojiro ITK shirogami http://www.chefknivestogo.com/toshna161.html which will be a bit fussier in terms of upkeep but will be able to hold a keener edge. This one also looks pretty great http://www.chefknivestogo.com/mu16na.html it is blue steel so it will be a skosh fussier still but with even keener of an edge but a bit more brittle than shirogami. This shouldn't be a problem with vegetable only prep, though. If I was picking for myself, I would get the Murata. one thing to think about is what kind of knife user are you? Do you rocking chop a lot or do you mostly push/straightupanddown chop? Nakiris are more suited for the latter. if you do a lot of rocking chopping you might want to look at a gyuto. GrAviTy84 fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Jan 21, 2014 |
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Jan 21, 2014 19:03
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Invisible Ted posted:I know certain things are more reactive, but I'm not sure what those things are. Acidic foods like citrus, tomatoes, onions. They will emit a slight stinky sulfur smell at first when you use a carbon knife on them, but with patina it will go away. like bombhand said, it's not hard to maintain. just keep it dry and don't use on hard foods and don't sweat it so much. Even if light rust happens it can be treated.
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Jan 22, 2014 18:45
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Massasoit posted:What are the bread knives used for other than bread? My girlfriend is gluten free, so there is never any bread around. I have seen some reference to cutting tomatoes, but I never seem to have any issues with other knives. I personally don't even use a bread knife for bread. My gyutos cut through it better and cleaner than any bread knife I've ever used.
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Jan 26, 2014 18:23
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d3rt posted:Any recommendations for a knife guard/protector/bag/thing for the Tojiro DP 8" that is Amazon Prime? do you want a bag, or just a guard thing for the one knife? This would work for just the knife: http://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-47302-Cutlery-BladeSafe-6-Inch/dp/B0000CFBB6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391025883&sr=8-1&keywords=blade+safe if you want a bag, you can go cheap and kinda flimsy or super posh and bougie. cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Winco-Compartment-Knife-Bag-Black/dp/B001RJTX9C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391025979&sr=8-1&keywords=knife+bag bougie: http://www.amazon.com/The-Ultimate-Edge-2001-EDB-Deluxe/dp/B002NEGSTS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1391026035&sr=8-2&keywords=knife+bag
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Jan 29, 2014 21:05
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Totess posted:I just went out today and I bought a sick knife that I totally love and want to take good care of. I'm afraid to tell you guys the knife I ended up getting because I don't want to be laughed out of here for essentially getting the Dre Beats of cutlery. like bombhand said, bamboo is good because it's cheap, sustainable, and durable. It is also generally harder on the knives than softer woods. They do make endgrain-esque bamboo which is a bit easier on the knives. In everyday, nonsperg use, they're probably fine. Stay away from teak. because of the nature of the wood and how it's grown, it has embedded in it dirt and sand particles which you can imagine are very bad for your knife. Sani-tuff boards are really good. They are made of a certain type of rubber and have the benefits of plastic (sanitizeable), and the benefits of wood (fast cutting surface, resurfaceable, cuts "heal"). They're not the prettiest though. Boardsmith makes the rollsroyce of cutting boards though if you're after something that works well and makes a beautiful kitchen piece as well.
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Jun 2, 2014 17:04
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FishBowlRobot posted:I've been rolling sushi for a while and just bought my first yanagi pics or it didnt happen
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Jun 3, 2014 16:28
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Lolcano Eruption posted:Ugh, making sashimi with a chef's knife isn't really working too well. You guys think a regular slicer/sujihiki is sufficient or does the single bevel of a yanagiba really help? It's a different cutting style for single bevel knives, so know if you get one there may be a bit of a learning curve.
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Jun 5, 2014 05:16
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Anyone know much about Laguiole steak knives? Came across these at local discount store and was wondering if they're legit.  Edit: on sale for 20bux for 6. edit2 :holy frames batman GrAviTy84 fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Jul 3, 2014 |
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Jul 3, 2014 03:51
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Generally speaking the answer to "I want x type knife but I don't want to spend much money" is "forschner" or that weird neon color Kai stuff.
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Jul 13, 2014 17:33
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There's also the hanging hair test. Us straight razor users use it to measure sharpness.
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Jul 16, 2014 02:49
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geetee posted:Every time while pulling the slippery pit off the blade, I feel like I'm one wrong movement away from missing a finger. I'm going about 0 for 100, but I don't know how long this streak can continue. you're doing it wrong. Pinch from behind. No danger whatsoever. edit for visual aid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKB-863wJSs&t=55s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-3Xa0ccM_Y&t=113s GrAviTy84 fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Jul 21, 2014 |
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Jul 21, 2014 05:54
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:You can just whack your knife against a trash can or some kind of plastic/rubber thing to pop them off. You'd get laughed at pinching pits in our kitchen, we go through 2-3 cases of avocado a day. I'd laugh at you when you chipped the edge off your weeaboo knife for whacking it on a trash can because you were too proud to spend the extra 1 second to pinch.
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Jul 21, 2014 21:01
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FishBowlRobot posted:If I have a stubborn avocado pit I sometimes just grab my towel to protect my pulling hand from the blade. MACs are nice. They have a weird bevel though which can make sharpening kind of a PITA, also I hear the steel is very hard to work with when sharpening, a bad combo. That said, they hold an edge really well, and a lot of people like them. They also make Tojiro DPs down to 180 mm which is quite short if that's all you're after. Personally I wouldnt go any shorter than 210mm for a chef's knife. GrAviTy84 fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Jul 22, 2014 |
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Jul 22, 2014 20:02
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Knife technique porn? I like itasan https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCj_bzwy94nk9ZJwGruMz4Zg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vGeCNeVQ-CM
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Jul 31, 2014 17:48
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black.lion posted:
Rockwell hardness. It's one metric of how aggressive of an edge a knife can take and how long it will keep it.
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Aug 7, 2014 18:51
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black.lion posted:So a lower HRC is just straight up a sign of lower quality? Like, there's no reason someone would have a preference for lower HRC knives over higher HRC? Depends on who you ask. Lower HRC means that your edge is more obtuse which means you're more chiseling and wedging food apart than cutting it. It also means the edge kind of flops over as you use it which is why you need to hone them a lot. Some people like that because it means that the blade doesn't chip as easily (high HRC also means more brittle, often)
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Aug 7, 2014 19:22
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That fujiwara is sk5 right? Does it stink/stain? I'm tempted but I've heard that alloy can transfer some oxidized flavors to raw foods.
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Aug 9, 2014 11:12
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db franco posted:anyone heard of the masanobu line of kitchen knives? Looks like they're VG10. It's probably not really damascus, most likely etched. Prices online look kind of silly expensive for a VG10 knife. VG10 is what Tojiro uses, too, and they're sub 100 new.
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Aug 18, 2014 18:16
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db franco posted:for the price I'd be surprised if they weren't real damascus... right? that's the thing. there really is no such thing as "real" damascus in modern knives. Shun's are etched, too.
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Aug 18, 2014 21:53
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TheJeffers posted:I might be getting a nice knife as a Christmas gift, and I'm wondering if anybody has used MAC's Professional 9.5" chef's knife, as seen here. I can't find much about it online, but people seem to describe these as good workhorse knives, which appeals to me. I use my moritaka to smash garlic all the time. They're not as fragile on the sides as you think, its just the edge that you need to worry about. MACs are nice though, Thomas Keller uses them. I think if I was going to go stainless I would either go cheaper in the tojiro dp line or go with a powdered tool steel like some of the miyabis. GrAviTy84 fucked around with this message at 07:55 on Dec 20, 2014 |
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Dec 20, 2014 07:51
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someone recommend to me a 5k-6k finishing stone. I'm looking at the King 6k cause it's cheap but idk how it is. http://www.amazon.com/King-S-3-Deluxe-Water-Stone/dp/B00201M960 also maybe this Suehiro http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suehiro-600...=item19d47e14f5 I have a chinatown coarse grit right now for repairs, a Bester 1200 for medium grit, and some loaded balsa strops that I also use for straight razor, but I think a low bound fine grit finishing stone would work better for kitchen use. GrAviTy84 fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Dec 22, 2014 |
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Dec 22, 2014 01:22
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1000 grit is still a pretty medium grit in knifeland. If the knife was really that beat up maybe you didn't grind off enough to form a new edge? I'd watch some videos about edge forming and chasing the burr, etc. edit: also make sure you're not mistaking sharpness for edge "bite"
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Dec 23, 2014 05:36
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