|
Apologies if you've mentioned this (or answers to any of the questions below), but how many garage bays are you going with for the garage? I'm assuming you're pouring the slab thick enough in at least one spot for a lift? Or are you going to go with a four post for mobility and storage options? Are you going to do anything fancy like in floor heating? I ask because I've read a lot of comments that says it's a nice way to keep cars and the garage at a nominal temp without expending a lot of energy (and thus saving money). On the flip side I'm bothered by how susceptible they seem to breaking and how difficult repair would be. Why the metal roof as opposed to composite or wood shingle to match the house? Eventually I'll be building a garage too (though after my basement/garage is done), which is why I ask so many questions. I'm also in the PNW so I imagine you've already considered a lot of the things I'll have to consider too in terms of climate challenges, etc.
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2013 18:13
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 16:59 |
|
|
the spyder posted:1) 2x 10x12ft bay doors I'm the only member of my family that doesn't work for the family run and owned contracting and remodeling business so I have good access to skilled builders, designers, sub contractors, etc. and grew up around enough of it, helping on sites during the summer that I'm half decent at the basics. The garages they've all done in the recent past have been wood shops though, which is why I asked about your approach to it as a car guy. That makes sense about the heated floor being broken up into zones, nice strategy. I'm thinking right now that I might be able to pull off a 22-24' deep x 30' wide foot print with one 8' wide door and one 16' wide. It won't be huge, or terribly deep, but I'm limited due to the size and shape of my lot. Your cost seems in line with what I've been talking with my dad about, so I may not start mine until spring 2015 since I'd also like to at least mildly remodel my kitchen and main floor bathroom soon too. Are you going to side it with? Metal there too? I asked about the metal and the roof because of the cost as compared to wood+composite roofing even with the longer life. If I was closer I'd offer to come by and help 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2013 19:43
|
|
|
TheFonz posted:Is it bad that I'm actually way more interested in the shop pics and progress as opposed to the FDs? I kind of am in the same spot  Spyder, so does the rigid go down to provide a base for the pex to be built on/attached to and to minimize parasitic heat loss downward into the ground? I've never actually seen cement pad installation of heated floors and didn't realize this was the process so I'm curious. The final set up of all of the pex looks awesome, and the picture you post of it the garage at night from a distance with the lighting and plastic up almost made it look like there was a fancy wedding or party that was going to be inside
|
|
#
¿
Nov 3, 2013 18:06
|
|
|
I can smell the drying cement from here and it smells wonderful.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 16, 2013 05:53
|
|
|
Awesome. Framing is so nice because it always makes a space feel that much more real and usable. The concrete really came out looking great too.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 20, 2013 06:56
|
|
|
the spyder posted:Correct, rebar unless laid out in a specific patter/load bearing setup, does not add to the compressive strength of concrete. It's main purpose is crack control. This is why ground prep is so important. Your concrete on top is only as good as what you pour it on. This explains my cracked driveway  (note: I didn't pour it, and it's so old it might be before they invented rebar )
|
|
#
¿
Dec 11, 2013 05:15
|
|
|
You have to love this stage of building where the time you put in nets huge changes in the feel of the space. Your work has been motivating me to push more on finish up the last bits and pieces of my own garage.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 2, 2014 06:16
|
|
|
Based on your constraints if it were me I'd probably get the WRX wagon and good all weather floor mats. But what I did with similar constraints in my own life was by the wife a Mazda Tribute (Escape) and by myself a BRZ. I've been getting almost 30mpg without trying.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 17, 2014 06:01
|
|
|
I don't know, based on your not wanting to get the 1 dirty and wanting something that you can get dirty and be ok with it being a commuter an Audi doesn't seem like the best idea. Despite not really being into the Hybrid stuff I think the Escape might be the better bet. Besides, if you don't already have an SUV or truck the utility will make it more worthwhile.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2014 06:25
|
|
|
I think given how many vehicles you already have you should either: a. Say gently caress practicality and get the STI/Evo b. Get a pure, but fun form of a good mpg vehicle like a fit/versa/xa/fiat 500
|
|
#
¿
Jan 22, 2014 05:19
|
|
|
the spyder posted:After three CL flakes, I'm just going to drive my truck for a bit, haha. I forgot how much I hated CL. CL is such a weird place. I've met some of the nicest random people, but also interacted with some of the biggest assholes. I once got so pissed off at someone bugging me about something I was trying to sell that I told him I would rather destroy it out of spite towards him than let him own it
|
|
#
¿
Feb 1, 2014 05:34
|
|
|
I'm glad to see I'm not the only person that likes the idea of owning a first or second gen rx7. Especially with a louvered rear window! I just need more garage space. Well, and time and money. Spyder, I saw this the other day and thought of you: http://dirtynailsbloodyknuckles.bigcartel.com/product/fd3s-masters-fan-art-24-x16-print Possible print for handing on the wall when the interior is finished?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 20, 2014 18:25
|
|
|
I also found you a wall clock: http://society6.com/CaleFunderburk/787b-mXd_Wall-Clock#33=284&34=286
|
|
#
¿
Apr 22, 2014 04:08
|
|
|
Are you going to try to set up any kind of storage that makes use of the high ceiling? My Pop has a similar sized shop and he ended up building ~20' high shelves along one wall with a ladder on casters like you'd see in an old library.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 4, 2014 04:01
|
|
|
Bostitch coil nailer hell yeah, I've got one too and just finished building 100' of cedar fence with it. 
|
|
#
¿
Aug 31, 2014 06:28
|
|
|
the spyder posted:I've had constant issues with it over/under driving nails (which is partially my fault- the regulator on my compressor is dead). Which nailer do you have? I ask because I've got the N66C which has 'dial a depth' and you're supposed to be able to 'dial' that away. The specific reason I bought mine is because it can take nail sizes from 1.25" to 2.5" and I can adjust the the drive for soft materials like fresh fencing cedar or harder materials when I eventually build a garage and need to do everything besides framing (which I have a Hitachi framer for). Admittedly I haven't tried non Bostitch nails though as I found a case of the size I needed super cheap on Amazon prime.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 1, 2014 06:29
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:He said it's something else when I asked before but I dismissed his answer and assumed it is indeed a watchtower. It's a well house I think?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 14, 2014 06:43
|
|
|
Congrats on finishing and just in time for the rain and winter too. Now you can stay toasty and dry and work on cars and/or the inside!
|
|
#
¿
Nov 21, 2014 03:36
|
|
|
I heard about scrubbing bubbles in AI years and years ago. It works especially well in dirty engine bays and while it leaves plastics a little shiny for my tastes for a nice car, it's great for the wife's car, or if you are trying to get nooks and crannies that can't easily be reached. The best is to get it at the big box or dollar stores when it's on sale because it can be kind of pricy and a can doesn't last THAT long.
|
|
#
¿
May 14, 2015 05:59
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 16:59 |
|
|
I feel dumb asking this, but what in the heck are the black tubular things?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2015 07:28
|
|
