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eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Klyith posted:


And can you even make a new olreans dark roux with butter? It would scorch the butter fat when the flour starts browning, wouldn't it?

If you want some of the flavor and don't want to use vegetable oil, you can clarify your butter and use that. I don't think it matters a whole lot though, I've made plenty of dark roux with butter and it's fine.

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eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Phil Moscowitz posted:

Any of the above. Coonass make do.

yeah I would do any of these except putting it in your crockpot

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Mushika posted:

Interesting, I've never tried that. It sounds like it would work well breaking down a bunch of onions for a classic French onion soup (among other things). Or is that common practice and I'm just unaware?

i think the seriouseats article on fast french onion soup is basically this + using a much higher heat than normal so it rapidly browns and creates a lot of fond, followed by repeatedly deglazing to avoid burning

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Comb Your Beard posted:

I watched a recent episode of Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern he was in Louisiana. He was with this legendary old lady cook. She roasted her okra in the oven before using it in the gumbo. Anybody ever try a technique like that? My gumbo is probably the highest effort thing I make and it would definitely add a step, would have to be really good.

Probably a great way to feature okra if you or someone you're serving hates the slimey aspect of it - but that's a lot more heat in my kitchen in an already long and hot process.

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Eifert Posting posted:

It's part of the prix fix at TUjagues :shrug:

Any good LA breweries?


Courtyard, Second Line, Wayward Owl, and Urban South are all nano/micros with tap rooms and worth going to in roughly that order.

I'd skip NOLA Brewing, it always seemed like they didn't make anything you couldn't buy commercially, they'd just add random flavors to their flagship beers.

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Phil Moscowitz posted:

Hell yeah! Looks about as good as it can be. And why not dip bread in it?

Anyone else mix up the carbs? I know people who swear by potato salad in the gumbo. I can’t see how it’s bad, but I’ve never brought myself to do it. I have put noodles in it and as you might expect, it’s amazing drunk food.

Potato salad is really good - gumbo obviously doesn't have enough fat in it with the roux/etc, you need that extra mayo.

A hollowed out and buttered pistollete or end of a baguette filled with gumbo is the absolute best in terms of starches though.

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



That Works posted:

I'd be reluctant to put the crawfish sausage in gumbo. Seems like that kinda flavor you'd want to have it stand on its own and if you let it cook down in a gumbo for more than a few minutes it would probably just kinda blend out into the dish and lose any unique flavor or texture that might have.

For the gumbo I'd just go with the andouille personally and grill up the crawfish sausages on the side and have them with some potato salad or somethin.

this is good advice. even in louisiana I've had a lot of disappointing crawfish sausage, it's one of those things that always sounds like a great idea but ends up being way harder to execute right than other meats.

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Mu Zeta posted:

Do I need to use smoked andouille sausage in gumbo? A butcher here makes fresh ones that are raw.

I wonder if it's a more traditional french version or something? hot smoking is basically a requirement to call your pork sausage 'andouille' in the louisiana style

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



That Works posted:

It's probably gonna be fine either way. I've made gumbo with raw pork and jalapeno sausages I got from a local butcher in Texas when I lived there and it was great. I can't imagine that it would come off badly. If you decide it's lacking the smoky flavor too much you can always throw in some smoked paprika into your trinity when sweating that down.

Yeah I think you can use just about anything - I'm not sure how regional Concecuh County sausage is (it's from alabama but i've found it in both louisiana and south florida) but it's really good in gumbo too.

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Klyith posted:

A 425 oven for 45 minutes to an hour is not what I want to do unless it's mid-winter, or had something else to do at the same time.

OTOH I wonder if that toasted flour would keep well? You could do a big batch then.

I like how easy this would be to get good color, but I don't like that they don't add it to any fat - it seems like you miss out on a quinessential part of a gumbo roux by not suspending it in fat that goes throughout your whole dish.

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Doom Rooster posted:

Oh poo poo yeah, good call. Missing out on a TON of flavor from fat.

i guess it's an easy fix to not do their weird process and instead just add toasted flour to your fat, cook it just long enough to be integrated, then proceed as normal

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Phil Moscowitz posted:

Had this tonight. Extremely good stuff, maybe the best I’ve tasted from a cardboard cylinder.

so with that ingredient list, is the flavor like cajun-meets-jerk?

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Phil Moscowitz posted:

Yep. That’s what they’re going for and it works very well.



yeah sounds like a solid combo - and a little more exciting than standard blackened seasoning for a piece of fish or something

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



The_Doctor posted:

In all my years of both living in and repeatedly visiting Louisiana (specifically NO and BR), I’ve never had shrimp and grits. I’ve got a trip coming up soon, where’s good?

I did a quick google, and found a suggestion for Red Gravy just off Canal. I’ve been there before, but didn’t see it on the menu.

as far as I can tell, shrimp and grits only made its way onto menus in new orleans when restaurants realized they had all the ingredients already, and that tourists knew the dish's name but don't know that it's actually Low Country food

you can probably go to whatever respectable cajun/creole place that has it on the menu and it'll be fine, but an italian place in the CBD is probably not the best choice

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



i'm not sure what if any places do it this way but: I highly recommend making "bbq" shrimp (like the Mr. B's/whatever other Brennan restaurant way) and pouring that over grits

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



ulmont posted:

It's on the brunch menu - http://www.elizabethsrestaurantnola.com/brunch/ - and looks like this:



that dark brown puddle just made me extremely hungry

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Nur_Neerg posted:

You're awesome, thanks!

I definitely want to hear about Saba/would try it if I were heading there soon - I moved away right around the time that Alon Shaya was having the dispute with Besh, and didn't realize he'd opened a new joint.

also: definitely do Compere Lapin if you haven't been, and try somewhere that Isaac Toups owns

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Phil Moscowitz posted:

Saba is basically Shaya but 10% more expensive and 10% smaller portions. I have a fundamental objection to paying $12 for three shrimp.

okay that sucks. Shaya was already too expensive but when it was new-ish it felt worthwhile (though I think it never lived up to the Best New Restaurant hype)

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Good to hear you enjoyed it!

Nur_Neerg posted:

Cochon: Tender, sweet chili-sauced alligator

I remember finding out that that dish literally used equal parts sriracha and butter as the sauce lol

not surprised about Maypop, unfortunately. I only ate at that dude's first restaurant, MoPho, twice because each time I had such miserable lukewarm food - and it was crazy hyped at the time.

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



The_Doctor posted:

Yeah, that’s pretty genius. I’m generally bad at making a roux for some reason, but that looks like it might help me some. I’ve also never seen fried chicken used in gumbo?

I assumed it was to serve alongside it?

the other thing blowing my mind is using seasoned flour, I just assumed you'd burn the spices too much for that to be feasible

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Phil Moscowitz posted:

No, he puts it in around 32:30.

haha i must've instantly censored it out since it seems so completely wrong

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



highly recommend Mary Land's "Louisiana Cookery," which is technically a cookbook but really more of a crazy documentary of turn-of-the-20th-century louisiana food and dining culture (first published in like 1954)

it would be useful if you need to know how to cook an owl versus how to cook a raven, though

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Crusty Nutsack posted:

That is actually a regional variation, I think in Southern LA mostly. So also traditional.

The cajun types i know that do this always used classic southern white potato salad with gumbo -- I never saw a creole mustard version in new orleans. i bet it's good

i grew up with just rice but i tried potato salad for christmas and my family was all very down. the creaminess and temperature contrast is weirdly good

eke out fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Apr 12, 2019

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Discussion Quorum posted:

I was a bit confused by the grocery store jambalaya though. I grew up near New Orleans eating "red" jambalaya and can't recall ever seeing a roux-based jambalaya. Is that a Cajun thing?

yeah i think there's one major type of jambalaya (e: like Toups' above) that's basically cooking the rice in a roux-based gravy. it's effectively like making gumbo except you throw in rice and slow cook until it's absorbed everything.

i never lived outside of new orleans but i almost never saw the tomato-type there, i feel like it's kinda gone out of style. probably something to do with the resurgence of fancy-cajun-everything in the past decade

eke out fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Nov 18, 2019

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Klyith posted:

Also seems like it'd be carb overload with both flour and rice?

having your rice saturated with gravy is a feature, not a bug

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



That Works posted:

Is that true?


I've eaten Jambalaya all over LA most of my young adult life and have only encountered roux in jambalaya through that Isaac Toups recipe or a few other random internet spots doing it. I'll double check but I haven't seen it in Prudhomme, Wilson's or my 1901-era Picayune cookbooks either.

I feel like this is more rare than a creole vs cajun style thing. Tomatoes are more creole, but not sure about the roux there. Not trying to call you out or anything, just mentioning it because I have never heard of that before.

nah it's a thing, here's what Mary Land says:



while i've never made a jambalaya with the "juice from a hundred fat Louisiana oysters" she does specify that her version is not like the common dish of "boiled rice and gravy... frequently served under the name of jambalaya"

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



That Works posted:

That could be a nod to people who don't know what they're cooking calling something jambalaya in my mind. Outside of Toups I've not seen a recipe with roux in any of the other kinda standards out there.

Mind you I have no dog in this fight, just am curious because I'm surprised to not know of it if its actually widespread.

but in 1954 this old lady was recognizing that roux-based jambalaya was common in louisiana, regardless of whether you want to say it's "technically" jambalaya or not

eke out fucked around with this message at 13:06 on Nov 19, 2019

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



the randazzo's praline one is so drat good

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



That Works posted:

And, if you folks make your own stock and aren't using a pressure cooker, you're missing out. It makes it a lot faster.

yeah it breaks all the rules of the fancy french traditional version and generally will be more cloudy, but that's not a downside at all in this context. like 30-45 minutes at pressure for poultry is more than enough to extract so much gelatin from the bones that it sets up firm

also if you let the pressure come down on its own without quick-releasing, your shrimp stock won't smell up the house at all this way

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Bluedeanie posted:

To get the sausage to retain its shape, should brown or roast the boudin first before it goes in the pot? Should I throw the links in whole and try to slice when done? Or should I just double up on the andouille as I have in the past and forget boudin gumbo as folly?

boudin's kinda its own thing and you don't really put it in gumbo

if you really wanted to, you'd need to just cook it separately and serve it alongside gumbo

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



really anything to get your boudin crispy is optimal, since it tends to be so, so soft

or, alternatively, lean into it being very soft but serve it with crisp things and treat it as basically a pate. for instance, it works great as the centerpiece of a small charcuterie board with like, pickles, toasted bread, and mustard

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



The_Doctor posted:

Hey, you guys wanna get mad? Also, the pronunciation of Leah, just to spite me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfrqxqR4bJo

everything about the real recipe they are following seems insane to me: missing 2/3 of the trinity, no meats ever get browned, roux isn't dark, water instead of stock

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Discussion Quorum posted:

I'm not sure I've ever had fish of any sort in jambalaya. Shellfish (ok crustaceans), sure, but is like redfish jambalaya a thing?

yeah i've never had it in jambalaya, just alongside or on top of it.

it seems like one of those common-sense things, if you have a nice piece of fish why would you overcook it like that

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Klyith posted:

You want a fish with stronger flavor that holds up to the rest of the jambalaya, so probably not redfish. I don't know which gulf fish would be best for that.

The recipes for spanish mackerel paella are often using smoked fish, so you flake it in at the very end.

speaking of things you can put in paella, i bet salt cod would work great

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



it also seems like the "either roux OR okra" rule of thumb is from well before really dark, cajun-style roux came into fashion. okra never really feels out of place in a dark roux to me because they're usually not that thick in the first place

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



Human Tornada posted:

I believe Alton Brown uses it as a shortcut in one of his gumbo recipes, or possibly Cook's Illustrated. I've done it, it works fine, and if it makes the purists bristle even better.

It's not really a shortcut but I think it's much less likely to get burned by accident. Seems like one of those things worth recommending to people that're worried about scorching it before it gets dark enough.

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



i'm pretty sure there's an episode of Justin Wilson's show where he literally fries chicken then ladles some of the oil into a pot to make a roux for gumbo

it'll be fine

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



The_Doctor posted:

That’s a K-Paul thing he does in one of his vids in this thread, and it’s honestly mind blowing the first time you see it.

EDIT:

haha yep this is the exact video i was thinking of, it's actually wilder than i remember since he just dumps more flour into the already-dirty oil

eke out
Feb 24, 2013



poo poo if i had three and a half gallons of nice rendered beef fat, of course i'd be making roux with it

i've had plenty of good results with pork and chicken fat

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eke out
Feb 24, 2013



i'd like to report that i had a tube of chorizo (the cheap near-liquid cacique kind) and i sauteed it off before adding trinity > white beans.

it turns out to be a really fast delicious way to add some flavor that i think you literally cannot tell is in the dish after it's done cooking, you'd swear they're just really nice cajun-style white beans

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