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So my buddy (FH) is a pretty good fabricator and was the guy who did the metal work on my Honda 2 years ago. I bought a Sporty last year and we finally got around to getting it under the torch. I know some people here hate the idea of rigid frame old school chops but we love them and this is my build thread. I am going to say we a lot in this thread but please keep in mind I am not taking credit for this work. My buddy is the one who has the skills to make this stuff happen. I just direct him and pay for the materials to make this bad boy my own. The Original. Here she was when I bought her. Pretty little chromed out cruiser.  The beginning. We stripped her down, ripped the motor out and chopped the rear end end of the frame off.   Once that was done we set her up in the jig and got everything level and bolted in. I bought these cast steel axle blocks to make the back end more stable instead of those thin little plates that most people use. FH bent the tube and tacked it all in place. Its now fully welded and good to go frame wise with a small 2 inch stretch added to the back to fit the new location of the battery box, oil tank and air compressor.  Now that the frame is all taken care of FH started on the oil tank. I bought an 8 inch hollow steel sphere from King Architectural metals and FH started modding it to become an oil tank. Its going to be pretty badass when its done.   So those steps are being finished. We made an air ride seat in an old honda we chopped and sold a few years ago but this time we both wanted to do it again and since its my bike I felt the need to blow the money. So I bought a Thompson compressor and had FH fab up a bracket for it that will mount it to the battery box.  So here we are. I already have a lot of other parts for it. I have old brass exhaust tips from the 60s, an old Victorian doorknob from the late 19th century to use for the jockey shifter, we have twisted railroad spike pegs, air springs for the air ride seat, bars, grips and a few other little odds and ends. I ordered a custom made fender from ledsled to fit perfectly over the tire with the appropriate spacing, looking forward to that. We have to weld up the new brake mounts and a few other odds and ends but I hope to have the frame to powedercoat in 2 weeks. As things get finished I will keep the thread updated.
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Feb 18, 2014 23:14
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| # ? May 4, 2024 22:39 |
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This is rad. Looking forward to seeing the finished product (and all the steps in between of course).
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Feb 19, 2014 00:14
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This is going to be a pretty neat conversion, looking forward to more.
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Feb 19, 2014 00:25
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This is very cool.
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Feb 19, 2014 02:20
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Oil tank is going to look awesome. If you put some kind of cool paint design on it and then replicated the design on a helmet it would look pretty cool. Looking forward to seeing the build.
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Feb 19, 2014 03:43
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The air compressor is just for the seat, right? Are you expecting so much leakage that you need a compressor on board? Seems you could pull that off and just stash a little bicycle hand pump somewhere if you need an emergency topoff.
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Feb 19, 2014 08:01
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Snowdens Secret posted:The air compressor is just for the seat, right? Are you expecting so much leakage that you need a compressor on board? Seems you could pull that off and just stash a little bicycle hand pump somewhere if you need an emergency topoff. No we aren't expecting any leakage. We use a toggle switch to control how much air is in the springs, that way you can adjust the firmness of the ride anytime you want. So pull the switch up and the compressor powers on and pumps air in through a one way valve into a 3 way normally open solenoid (powered so in its closed position to rout air to the seat from the compressor). Power off or down on the toggle and the solenoid powers off opening the way for air to leave the springs. This way when the bike is not in use the seat sits flat against the frame and keeps the lines of the bike as well as making a sweet hellacious hissing sound when you shut it down (we route the exit tube unto the frame so the bike hisses like mad when air is let out). I can draw a diagram if you guys want. There is also an air restrict valve on the exhaust end so the seat springs don't just dump the air out when the switch is flipped. It comes out slowly so you can adjust your ride while riding down the road to get that sweet spot. Errant Gin Monks fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Feb 19, 2014 |
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Feb 19, 2014 14:07
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Engine back in the frame to finish lining everything up. Oil tank is being held in place. Close up of the oil tank. It's going to be pretty badass when it's done.  There was some pitting on the chrome over the winter. Pisses me off since it was in perfect shape 6 weeks ago. Regardless we pulled the cam cover off and cut it down to match the engine and will get it rechromed if not just stripped and polished.  Next up is swapping the belt pulley for a chrome chain sprocket. Get the exhaust fabricated and mount made. We drilled new tank mounts in the frame to lift the front of the tank a few inches as well as get the bungs for the fender once it comes in.
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Feb 24, 2014 04:51
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Oil tank looks awesome! Are those jugs and heads the originals? They look like the rubber mount fin style.
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Feb 25, 2014 07:24
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As far as I know it's all just a stock 99 setup.
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Feb 25, 2014 14:38
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I think you need some XB heads on that beast.
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Feb 25, 2014 20:24
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clutchpuck posted:I think you need some XB heads on that beast. I really just want to do a Buell engine build instead one day. dropping the XB heads (and hammer pistons or whatever with the squish zone) is a little effort intensive when I can just buy a used motor for 1500-2000 bucks and have all the Buell pieces and alighter engine. Thanks a lot for ruining next year for me since now I will be trying to find a deal on a Lightning engine for the next 6 months.
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Feb 25, 2014 22:16
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Errant Gin Monks posted:As far as I know it's all just a stock 99 setup. OK, for some reason, looked like the larger fins on the 2004-2006 1200r heads. Buell motor in that frame would be nice but a 1250 with big cams and some worked heads would be pretty drat awesome, too. Mine is pretty tame but there are a lot of guys getting 100+ hp from a 1250 and they say it has decent street manners. What kind of exhaust are you going with? Custom fabbed?
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Feb 25, 2014 22:28
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Errant Gin Monks posted:I really just want to do a Buell engine build instead one day. dropping the XB heads (and hammer pistons or whatever with the squish zone) is a little effort intensive when I can just buy a used motor for 1500-2000 bucks and have all the Buell pieces and alighter engine. Well a Buell (XB at least) engine will have completely different mounting points so I don't know if it would be less labor intensive. Only difference between 04+ Sportster and XB engines is the XB has hotter cams and a lighter flywheel; most of the power comes from the intake and exhaust. I wonder if the XR1200 engine fits in a normal Sportster frame.
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Feb 25, 2014 22:55
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Have you heard of anybody putting XR heads on their XB?
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Feb 25, 2014 23:26
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Scrapez posted:OK, for some reason, looked like the larger fins on the 2004-2006 1200r heads. Buell motor in that frame would be nice but a 1250 with big cams and some worked heads would be pretty drat awesome, too. Mine is pretty tame but there are a lot of guys getting 100+ hp from a 1250 and they say it has decent street manners. Yeah we are making exhaust. Just going to be straight pipes with some little twists around the engine area to follow engine lines hugged in as tight as we can get them. It already has an S&S super e so we will rejet it to match the open pipes.
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Feb 25, 2014 23:35
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clutchpuck posted:Have you heard of anybody putting XR heads on their XB? Every now and then I look but no luck, might be a tight fit though. I've also been looking to install an oil temp meter on my XB, looking at various sensor locations. Drain plug is the easiest but you lose the magnet, people have used an adapter plate under the oil filter (also can give you a thermostat) but I feel that gets the filter rather close to the exhaust and you have to make new oil coolers lines. Also I think I saw someone use a tee on the pressure sensor hole but I feel that's kind of a lot of stuff hanging off the engine. I'd prefer to install a tee at the oil cooler, but I've had a hard time determining what adapters I need and where to get them.
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Feb 26, 2014 00:27
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I feel like an oil temp readout on one of these would be too frightening, the burning on my right leg frightens me enough.
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Feb 26, 2014 23:48
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If you were a crazy person, you could just tap a new hole in the oil pan for a temp sensor.
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Feb 26, 2014 23:58
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Safety Dance posted:If you were a crazy person, you could just tap a new hole in the oil pan for a temp sensor. The material might be too thin, chances are there's an extra flange with the drain plug threads that sticks out inside the swing arm.
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Feb 27, 2014 00:04
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Cloth wiring in. Came out of an old elevator in canada. I picked the colors that will match my paint job for the rewire and left the red green and yellow ones out.
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Mar 2, 2014 22:53
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Anyone want to place any bets on when EGM's motorcycle will catch on fire?
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Mar 2, 2014 23:11
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Safety Dance posted:Anyone want to place any bets on when EGM's motorcycle will catch on fire? I'm going wih 6 weeks after we first fire it up.
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Mar 2, 2014 23:40
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What's the rub-through time look like for old cloth wire mounted to a Harley, about 5 seconds? I have a feeling you'll be chasing shorts more than anything. Just skip the fuses #YOLO
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Mar 2, 2014 23:51
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Safety Dance posted:Anyone want to place any bets on when EGM's motorcycle will catch on fire? Gotta see how much the oil tank leaks first
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Mar 2, 2014 23:51
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We haven't had an issue with the wiring on any other bikes. Running it through the frame rails keeps it protected to a certain extent. The only times they are exposed are around the headlight and right around the battery or another termination point. The entire wiring diagram is like 8 wires. Mine will have a few extra since we have the compressor and solenoid for the seat. Since we aren't running a key no wiring will be exposed around the ignition either. As for the oil tank we haven't ever had one leak yet (knock on wood). It helps that FH is a drat good fabricator and has been welding for 10 years.
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Mar 3, 2014 00:20
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nothing to see here
HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Mar 3, 2014 |
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Mar 3, 2014 18:30
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:nothing to see here Now I'm curious
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Mar 4, 2014 01:42
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Errant Gin Monks posted:We haven't had an issue with the wiring on any other bikes. Running it through the frame rails keeps it protected to a certain extent. The only times they are exposed are around the headlight and right around the battery or another termination point. The entire wiring diagram is like 8 wires. I guess then why bother with the trouble of sourcing vintage cloth wrapped elevator wire to hide it in the frame?
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Mar 4, 2014 04:51
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A few inches of it will be visible, why not have some neat looking wires where they'd be showing anyway?
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Mar 4, 2014 05:05
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Errant Gin Monks posted:Now I'm curious The "seat solenoid" bit threw me off. I questioned it before going back to read about the air-suspended seat scheme. Which is tits.
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Mar 4, 2014 06:52
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OMGVBFLOL posted:A few inches of it will be visible, why not have some neat looking wires where they'd be showing anyway? Basically because this. The only reason is because you can have a curly by the headlight and some cool looking wires around the battery/brake light area. No other reason.
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Mar 4, 2014 11:26
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In EGM's defense I had a house wired entirely with that stuff and it'd been like 70 years since the last time it'd burned down
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Mar 4, 2014 12:02
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You know you can get safe, modern repro cloth wire too? In all sorts of guages and colours. http://www.sundialwire.com/ - first supplier on google. 
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Mar 4, 2014 14:33
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Snowdens Secret posted:In EGM's defense I had a house wired entirely with that stuff and it'd been like 70 years since the last time it'd burned down Yes but your house did not shake violently, unless it was in an earthquake...but then it'd have to be an 8+ magnitude earthquake to shake it as much as a Harley. Having said all that, it certainly does sound like a lot of work/potential issue for a few inches of display but I'll wait to see the final product before I pass judgement. Might look so cool it's worth it.
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Mar 4, 2014 16:59
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ReelBigLizard posted:You know you can get safe, modern repro cloth wire too? In all sorts of guages and colours. thats no where near as vintage and/or dangerous.
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Mar 4, 2014 17:08
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Well fine but if you're going to do ~vintage otis-sourced gluten free wire~ then at least go whole hog and make the headlight an edison lamp
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Mar 4, 2014 20:51
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*Roars up on a hardtail chop* i see you noticed my cloth wires, i got them from the I'm Feeling Lucky button on Google *burns the rear*
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Mar 4, 2014 21:20
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Well fine but if you're going to do ~vintage otis-sourced gluten free wire~ then at least go whole hog and make the headlight an edison lamp I was thinking skip the electrics entirely and just braze a carbide lamp onto the forks.
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Mar 4, 2014 23:39
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| # ? May 4, 2024 22:39 |
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Egm be warned anything custom. Is mostly going to be met with hostility. Personally I think the elevator wire is a strange choice unless it was handy. There are lots of places that make cloth covered wire. I would not be concerned about the elevator wore though. As it is wire in cloth and not prone to exploding or anything like that. I think the bike looks nice and having experience with a spring seat. I can pretty much say regardless of the spring rate you will get bounced out of the seat. It's not scary so much as annoying. At no point was back ever hurt by riding without springs. As long as you have some cushion you will be fine.
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Mar 5, 2014 00:45
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