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So, weird AC issue I've been having. On my 98 Jetta TDI, had the fill fittings replaced due to bad valves, and then had the system vacuumed and filled, but they said the high side wouldn't go very high, and sure enough ac only got mildly cold. Diagnosed as worn compressor. A few days later, and after running the AC on and off out of curiosity, the AC suddenly goes ice cold....and holds. No replaced compressor, no more filled, nothing. It just went from tepid to frigid suddenly, and is now consistently cold.
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Apr 29, 2014 04:28
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mafoose posted:Perhaps a blockage? The rubber style hoses will be fine, and if you have a hose that has the ends you need, you can usually find a local hydraulic shop that will fit the ends and make you a AC rated hose for around $85 or so. I had to have a custom hose made for my Jetta when I put the new motor in because it moved the AC compressor lower into the engine bay.
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Apr 29, 2014 15:04
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West SAAB Story posted:I've never seen these words together before. Its a first (and probably the last)
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May 3, 2014 13:32
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Question: I've heard rumors about using Propane in place of R-12 in lieu of retrofitting to R134. Yay or nay?
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Jun 16, 2015 05:32
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MRC48B posted:It's not a rumour, R-290 (aka Propane) is used as a replacement for R-22 and R-502 in industrial cooling and Refrigeration systems. Are there risks associated with short cycling the system?
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Jun 16, 2015 14:23
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Gotta try getting my car charged this week, either 152A or something. Its getting bad out here.
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Jun 22, 2015 04:19
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Bought a can tap so I can try my, frankly horrible, idea of using PC Duster to fill the R12 system on my Audi. Gonna go have it vacuumed down and leak tested beforehand by a shop.
CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Jul 30, 2015 |
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Jul 30, 2015 15:34
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EightBit posted:Duster cans have R134a or R152, and sometimes an agent to keep people from huffing them. Hoping its R152, since that is what I am going for, and most of them have switched to R152 due to the cost of R134 (and there is some new laws regulating the use/disposal of R134)
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Jul 30, 2015 17:34
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I've just been through this for myself. R152 is difluoroethylene. R134 is tetrafluoroethylene. It always seems to be written on the label. Dust-Off is difluoroethylene, so just grab some Dust-Off form Walmart. Cool, I'll double check the label to be sure, I was a little worried about that.
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Jul 30, 2015 19:55
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Reporting back on my quest to fill my AC system with PC Duster (R152) It worked like a charm:   Its blowing nice and cold, at least 50, and then blew cold as I drove down for guard weekend (150+ miles)
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Aug 1, 2015 03:10
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I am happy to report my R152 expiriment held out all weekend during my Guard Weekend duty. On the downside: I have a slow leak somewhere, and the car is having issues returning to idle, tries to stall all the time.
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Aug 3, 2015 02:26
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Motronic posted:ONE OF US! ONE OF US! It made the 150 miles drive much more tolerable. So much more. Question: I noticed the air was cycling from lukecold to cold and lukecold again and again. Is that a cycling issue? I'm tempted to do all the seals and replace the receiver drier.
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Aug 3, 2015 03:27
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mafoose posted:If the pressures are good, it could be a failing TXV. Is your condenser fan working? Yup, all fans are working, as soon as the compressor kicks on the condenser fan goes full blast until I turn off the AC. Where is the Thermal Expansion Valve normally found in a car AC system?
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Aug 3, 2015 03:40
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Enourmo posted:If it's a Thermostatic Expansion Valve (what that acronym actually stands for), it has to read the evaporator temperature, so it pretty much has to be in the evaporator case. Seems to be a fixed orifice tube, Rockauto carries it. Gotta figure out where it is in the system.
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Aug 3, 2015 04:10
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mafoose posted:Interesting. Asked around, people are telling me its in the engine by where the lines enter the firewall.
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Aug 3, 2015 05:00
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Enourmo posted:You could probably stick it in the oven, reflow the solder on the cooling vanes and be could to go. Makes me glad Audi went overboard on their condensor coils...
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Aug 4, 2015 05:16
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0toShifty posted:I have several things here: Just run the current gauges and add R-134 conversion adapters. Not a major issue.
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Aug 6, 2015 04:03
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(I actually have the EPA cert)
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Just a follow up: AC is still ice cold in my Audi using R152 and Esther oil.
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Aug 21, 2015 02:53
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Any reason why you used esther oil and not PAG-46? I'm planning to regas my old R12 system after replacing every single freaking component, and was wondering which oil to use. There would still be some mineral oil residue in the replacement (junkyard) parts, but I don't think it matters? Compatability and Availability. Esther oil is compatible with both R134 and R152 and will work with any remaining Mineral Oil, as well as it was easy to find.
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Aug 21, 2015 20:03
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I've just read up on it, apparently it's compatible with everything and you can also get it with some anti acid/corrosion additives, which considering my history with That's the way I read it. I read a research paper on oil compatability, and the run down was Esther Oil is less system specific and is friendly to systems with questionable health or gas mixtures. And considering its been 3+ weeks since I did the fill and still have cold AC, I'm gonna say its worth it if you don't know how clean the system is or are worried.
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Aug 21, 2015 20:36
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BLACK DEATH
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New problem, different car. The Jetta TDI is having issues, no leaks but the low side is slightly high and the high side is low. Research is showing the RCV or Compressor. But since the RCV is IN the compressor, it makes more sense to replace the entire compressor, right?
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Aug 22, 2015 18:09
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CommieGIR posted:So, after some Google research, the concensus is the Compressor is either bad or the Compressor RCV is bad.
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Aug 22, 2015 22:49
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I am happy to report: the compressor rebuilt took! New Refrigerant Control Valve and new seals and the pressures are corrected and air is ice cold!
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Aug 27, 2015 03:22
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kastein posted:e: I know I don't need 60oz for the car it's going in, but a 6pack of 10oz cans was the cheapest stuff on amazon that I could find an MSDS for, so I went for it. I guess I probably should have ordered some of the proper lubricant oil as well. Pretty sure it just needs a recharge, last time I checked it still had a bit of pressure left in the lines, and would sometimes fast cycle, just not enough to actually work. Esther Oil seems to be the best lubricant for a mixed oil system like R12 might have. But I suspect you are going to vacuum down the system before you charge?
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Sep 3, 2015 23:03
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kastein posted:Yeah, IIRC Ester oil is the right kind. I'm pretty sure Esther oil is some old testament poo poo Just wanted to chime in again that my R12 now R152 AC system still works great. Also, I had to recharge my Jetta's R134 system after I rebuilt the compressor, didn't want to spend $40 for a can of R134, so I put R152 in it. Its running even colder than it did before.
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Sep 3, 2015 23:14
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Old oil contamination possibly.
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Sep 6, 2015 18:50
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PBCrunch posted:If I proceed to vacuum down the system on the low side only, will this do any good? Alternately, what do I need to be able to connect my gauge set to the high side? Knowing the high side would help a lot more in diagnosing if its not cooling properly once you do fill it again. Go to Autozone/Orielly's/NAPA and see if they have a retrofit kit, it might have the adapter you are looking for.
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Sep 10, 2015 21:32
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I thought all R12 high side fittings were the same, especially on a 1993 vehicle (which was right near the end of the R12 era). Any set of conversion adapters should work. No, they do vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer. The kit I got came with 6-8 different adapters of varying size and pitch. scuz posted:If I'm replacing the entire A/C system because of a disintegrated compressor that flung a buncha poo poo throughout the A/C system, destroying everything, would I be able to re-use the hoses? I really don't want to use any of the individual components, but I'm confident that I can flush out the hoses well enough to get all those little metal bits out. Yes. Just flush the gently caress out of them, and replace the drier.
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Sep 30, 2015 22:51
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scuz posted:Bitchin. Just so I can run this by someone else, this is my shopping list: Depending on the amount of materiel you can flush out, you may be able to re-use the condenser and evaporators. I mean, if you don't feel like risking it, that's just fine, and you'll be better off getting new ones, but you should be safe just flushing them both ways. \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ What he says. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Sep 30, 2015 |
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Sep 30, 2015 23:04
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Motronic posted:Basically if they are parallel flow you can't flush them properly. If not, go for it. This is what he means, btw 
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Sep 30, 2015 23:34
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Geirskogul posted:Stupid question, but I'm pretty sure the schrader valves on my 1998 Explorer (4.0 SOHC) are leaking. I don't see how they come out. Are they replaceable themselves (with a standard dryer/vacuum/recharge/etc) or do I have to buy the whole fittings? Comes out just like the schrader valve on a tire, some fill ports have a little rubber cover that goes over it, but you should be able to remove it or reach through it. I suspect you are talking about the little black rubber check ball, you should be able to remove/get around it. Goto any local auto parts store and ask for a schrader valve tool and they should also have AC schrader valves available.
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Oct 1, 2015 00:20
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I think the general consensus is that ester oil is compatible with any remaining mineral oil and is compatible with all of the popular refrigerants. I would just pour out the old oil from the compressor, and replace with the same amount of ester oil, then replace the drier and add the required amount of ester oil for a drier replacement (on my toyota, it's 20ml, for example). Edit: It's not as sensitive to moisture as PAG oil is, either. That and R152 is widely available in PC Duster cans with ease. Just make sure you vacuum down the system prior to charging, and get the Esther oil put in first. I've had zero issues with my R152 in both my Jetta and my Audi, and its cold as hell in both.
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Oct 10, 2015 03:46
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You can get R134 in PC Duster cans too.
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Oct 10, 2015 19:48
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Motronic posted:I haven't seen that for years (in the US). I've found both on my runs, its random which one is which, but I found both R152 and R134 at Walmart
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Oct 10, 2015 20:26
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IOwnCalculus posted:Got the system vacuuming right now after a compressor replacement. The instructions with the new compressor said to dump the oil from the old compressor, measure it, dump the oil from the new compressor, and then put the amount taken from the old compressor back in. The only thing weirding me out is I only got maybe 1/8 of a cup out of the old compressor, and at least 2-3x that out of the new one (a Denso new-build compressor). The old compressor itself was fine, I'm just replacing it because the clutch alone costs nearly as much. I'd look up manufacturer specs and go by theirs, or stick to what came in the compressor. Some of that will leak out into the system over time and then get caught by the dehydrator.
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Oct 18, 2015 03:42
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Another year, another A/C thread.
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Apr 10, 2016 03:08
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I was trying to work out how much driers cost for the RX8, as I am planning to remove the compressor on mine. It turns out the drier is part of the loving condenser, and is non-replaceable, meaning I have to scrap the whole condenser every time I open the system. What the gently caress, Mazda?! .....if its new, just vacuum it down a couple times.
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May 2, 2016 17:36
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I'm gonna remove the compressor and leave it out for a few months. Suggestions? Bag the hoses with PVC tape and vac the poo poo out of it when I come to reinstall? Bag and ziptie. Pick up some of those silicon absorbing packets and throw them in the bags before you zip tie them on.
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May 2, 2016 17:57
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Good call on the silica gel packs! You could just get a giant vacuum seal bag and seal it in that 
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May 2, 2016 18:12
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Elmnt80 posted:The a/c in my 05 avalanche hasn't worked in 5-6 years, with a year and a half of this sitting immobile. When it went out, a fairly reputable shop diagnosed it as the compressor (which I refused to do because they wanted $100 to replace a $15 belt at the same time). What would I need to do after replacing the compressor and dryer? I'm assuming have it vacuumed out, add oil and 134. Is there a way I could check before replacing the compressor that its not riddled with leaks after not working properly for so long? Kinda difficult to do because most of the leak detector stuff comes premixed in R134 or Oil. Best bet? Hit as many seals as you can reach, but chances are it shouldn't leak too bad, just make sure to do any O-rings when you do the drier and compressor lines. Let's put it this way: I just serviced an R12 system on an Audi Coupe GT that sat for 10 years. Other than a busted hose, all the seals were still good despite the system basically having a hole in it for 10+ years.
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May 25, 2016 01:28
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