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I have like... 200 bucks in tools. Do 2 repairs and its paid for itself.... I even do friends poo poo if they ask and charge in beer/food/minimal fee. And if I recall you live in Florida.... this equipment is worth its weight in gold.
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Mar 17, 2014 05:59
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rcman50166 posted:Your thread was very helpful last year. I still haven't fixed my A/C and probably won't. The tools I need plus another compressor clutch would put me near where the car is worth. Another sweaty summer Hit a junkyard! Unless your car is plagued by "bad clutches", finding a good one will be easy enough.
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Mar 27, 2014 17:30
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rcman50166 posted:The tools are significantly more expensive. Clutch puller, manifold, and vaccuum pump. Consumable stuff like the refrigerant, lubricant, etc. Plus whatever else I might need that I encounter along the way. What kind of car do you have? Clutch pullers are generally rented at a decent auto parts shop. The rest of the stuff, is relatively cheap. First thing I would do, see if you can pull a vacuum on your system. If it holds, then you can determine if its worth fixing.
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Mar 27, 2014 17:44
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I am pretty sure I need to recharge my AC, but I want to run it by the thread before I start any work. I was used to Land Rovers and the superior TXV. 05 Yukon XL - Its a capillary tube system with rear AC I noticed that the air coming from the vents doesn't get super cold until you start moving the truck. I can hear a hiss on the inside, so I know its doing its liquid to gas change thing. I need to go throw the gauges on when its actually warm enough (above 70) to do a more accurate readings etc. Sounds like its just low on R134a. And I know with a million miles of lines, its bound to leak a little. I figure when I do a small charge I want to dump some dye in as well to see if there are any leaks. I also wonder if I need to double check my relays because this is the year they switch from mechanical fans to electronic.
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Apr 17, 2014 16:59
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Yeah, I figured it might be a little low. Its just been such a bitch trying to get some kind of good readings when it goes from 65-70 to 30s at night.... Plus I am just a "hot" person in general and like it cold. Its not like I am goony fat or anything, I just like it cold.
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Apr 17, 2014 17:07
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Well I did some quick checking. I swapped relays with another good relay and the fans didnt kick on, So I just jumped the relay and the fans kicked on. I didnt dig the gauges out, which I am going to do tomorrow. Its definitely short cycling though, I purchased a can of 134a and plan to do it tomorrow. I can hear it hissing in the dash when the compressor kicks on then it stops right away. I purchased the one with dye in it and see what happens. Its pretty much a 10 year old truck with a million miles of pipe, its bound to just have leaked some.
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Apr 20, 2014 05:21
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Fucknag posted:So the relay secondary circuit (that sends power to the fans) is good; how's the primary circuit? Typically you'll have constant 12V to the socket, with the switch in the cabin grounding the other pin and completing the circuit. If a known good relay doesn't work that's where I'd start looking. Well, thats what I thought, but after looking, the fans don't kick on till a certain temperature. And with all the stupid poo poo GM does, I wouldn't be shocked.
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Apr 20, 2014 06:37
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Hey what do you know.... it relies on another sensor to turn the fans on. But FWIW GM must have adopted after my Range Rovers system  . It only turns the fans on when the high pressure side gets to X amount of pressure. And I have only seen those fans kick on once or twice in the entire time I owned my P38, and it was on a 102 degree day. So I am guessing it runs a similar setup. I honestly think its just low on 134a.
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Apr 20, 2014 06:54
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Got out and charged the AC a little today. Static pressures on both sides measured around 75 lbs, and the ambient temp around 72, so I am taking that as heat absorption (its a black truck). First off... I added around 3oz-4oz of R134a in a system that needs, well, A LOT. The compressor quit short cycling, and the Capillary tube system started making some noise, and added little more in increments. Then Voila! The aux fans kicked on because now I was building some pressure in the high side.  That's with the fans on, when the fans are off it jumps up to 200ish. I kinda feel like the compressor is getting weak, and for these years of trucks, its not uncommon. The vent temps felt pretty good (I need a thermometer, but were much colder), but I feel like I am going to have to come back when its a little warmer out and see where things are. Also, for any one who owns a Suburban/Tahoe/Escalade/Yukon 2000-2006, the rear air portion is controlled by a Thermal Expansion Valve and the front is a cheap 98 cent part. Why the gently caress could they not add a 10 dollar part is beyond me. Edit: It was definitely getting warm where I was standing, and I know 200 ish is slightly out of line with the chart you provided in the front, but I chalked it up to engine heat, and other outside forces. I don't think I really overfilled anything, unless you see something I did wrong. When I turned the truck off the system definitely is working correctly because the pressures started to align them selves to around 80. Which falls inline with where the high side WAS at. A little at a time cant hurt right? Edit again. The low side and high side ports are fairly close together and the capillary tube is between that. Its making a hiss, which would tell me its still low right? Or do those things always hiss? BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Apr 20, 2014 |
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Apr 20, 2014 16:51
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Quick little update: I think I have a blend door issue, on my drive in I could feel it get cold then quickly warm up then get cold again. I turned one of the rear ac vents on and let it blow on me, and it never changed... nice and cold. After a couple of miles the front vents started making cold air and lots of it and the rest of the drive was very cold front air. But it definitely needed a top up on 134a. The air is much colder and the compressor is not short cycling anymore.
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Apr 20, 2014 20:12
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Exactly what I needed to hear. Sorry for the wall of poo poo.... just figured I would get every thing put down in case I miss something.
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Apr 21, 2014 05:22
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If thats the case you need to have the system totally evacuated and start from scratch. Oh and don't run the ac.
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Apr 30, 2014 13:05
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1988 Range Rover Classic - Dumb question - Is there a way to tell what kind of oil is in the system? I dont want to charge it all up and then have the wrong oil with the wrong refrigerant. Or am I just hosed on stripping the system and draining every thing? FWIW - I plan to go R152 on this, because you know. Land Rover did a great job of making the correct size evaporator. And evaporator. Well, you know, its Rover.
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Jun 18, 2014 04:36
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mafoose posted:They do sell test kits, but it seems like flushing and the correct weight pag oil is best. I might go with the test strips. I'm fine with doing either 152 or 134. I checked this morning because I got hung up doing other things.... But the vacuum is still perfect.
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Jun 18, 2014 15:44
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That sounds like what my suburban does on occasion. I would bet its the pressure switch going bad or just low on refrigerant.
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Jul 3, 2014 12:31
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Is your system able to use a thermal expansion valve? If so, what ever it came with should be ok. If its a capillary tube, well, I am out on that one
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Oct 24, 2014 14:33
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Did you have the black death? If yes, replace. If no..... its a gamble. Its easier to just do it and be safe
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Jan 24, 2015 03:12
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The best thing to do next is make drat sure there is no other contamination in the system. In regards to my RRC - I am going to convert the system to R-152, what oil do I use? I am guessing that its still the old R-12 compatible oil in it. Its a Sanden compressor though, is this the one that has its own oil supply or am I thinking of those compressors on old Fords? Edit: Did some searching it says to use to use SP-15. Its compatible with R-134... But I am lost at this point. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Apr 17, 2015 |
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Apr 17, 2015 03:13
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Fucknag posted:Well naturally, but how? Id head for the condenser if it was easy to yank. Hoses, anything.
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Apr 17, 2015 03:22
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[quote="kastein" post=""446275975"] I think you mean TXV valve but not sure. Whether you need one is a question for Motronic, I don't know the answer to that. [/quote] TXV depends... But I thought the rule of thumb was if you had the black death, you needed to replace as much as possible. (I could be wrong)
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Jun 8, 2015 15:05
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rdb posted:On a similar note, is it possible to use anhydrous ammonia in an automotive air conditioning system? hahaha holy poo poo complicated. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Jun 17, 2015 |
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Jun 17, 2015 16:55
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For any one who wants to geek out on Ammonia, here is an image. (there is no txv valve - I need to revise my statement)
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Jun 17, 2015 17:28
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CommieGIR posted:Gotta try getting my car charged this week, either 152A or something. Its getting bad out here. Its on my agenda as well. 3 out of 4 cars with working ac ain't bad!
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Jun 22, 2015 04:28
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Worse case scenario... You won't have functional ac. Just read the OP, then read it again about 5 times. Once you understand how the poo poo all works, ac systems are pretty easy for the most part.
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Jun 24, 2015 06:16
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Brigdh posted:Thanks for this utterly unhelpful post. Due to the packaging on this car, the worst case is actually a nonfunctional car, which I'd like to avoid unexpected instances of since its my primary vehicle. You were making a much bigger problem out of something you don't have the tools to do. Once you own a vac pump, a set of gauges, and a few other select items, the job becomes a million times easier. The only time I go to a service place is to have them suck the refrigerant out, because venting that poo poo is illegal. Brigdh posted:The compressor is right next to the cooling system radiator. Unlikely, sure, but if the compressor decides to grenade, its taking out the cooling system with it. He did say worst case.... The compressor wont grenade. Stop being dramatic.
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Jun 24, 2015 19:13
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If there's nothing on the high side stop what your doing and you need to check for obstructions. Edit: rereading your post did you hear any hissing with the engine off? A leak that big would be very noticeable.
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Jul 5, 2015 03:32
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Well with out being there to diagnose anything... If it was sucking in refrigerant on the low side and nothing on the high side it would indicate a massive leak or an obstruction, most likely at the tvx/cap tube. The car does need to be running and the compressor needs to be turning to build pressure. Just guessing you have a leak in the condenser is my best guess. With dye in the system though you can at least start looking for leaks.
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Jul 5, 2015 03:49
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Hit up a hardware store and buy one of these. http://www.harborfreight.com/38-desiccant-dryer-with-oil-removal-filter-69923.html and if you really want to get one of these too http://www.harborfreight.com/inline-desiccant-dryerfilter-68215.html those will remove 99% of the moisture, other wise, the argon/co2 thing would work just fine too.
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Jul 6, 2015 03:41
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Start at the clutch. If there is power there, you know which is bad. Though it all depends on the system, you might have a pressure sensor too.
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Jul 7, 2015 00:16
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Sadi posted:I have good power at the clutch and as far as I can tell all the sensors are before the relay for the clutch. I guess only possibility other than a bad clutch is a bad ground but I think it's grounded through the motor. Sounds like a bad clutch. Now, this is a very dangerous thing, but turn on the ac, and very very gently tap the clutch with a wood handle of a hammer or the end of the a screw driver. If the clutch engages, then the air gap needs to be adjusted. If not then yeah, the clutch is toast. Just be very careful as there is lots of poo poo flying around and you don't want to get injured doing that. most clutches are grounded through the motor, so if your engine is running, more than likely its grounded correctly.
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Jul 8, 2015 17:49
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:
I'd be in for a project thread!
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Jul 31, 2015 15:42
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That doesn't sound completely awful. Most cap tubes are in the recover dryer. Txv's are almost always are buried in the dash or engine bay.
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Aug 3, 2015 05:36
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0toShifty posted:I have several things here: My R134 gauges unscrew at the ends and already have R12 fittings, but mine are from HF.
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Aug 6, 2015 15:48
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(I actually have the EPA cert)
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revmoo posted:Mine don't. If anyone can actually find R134>R12 adaptors for gauges let me know please I have looked quite a bit. I think I actually even asked in one of these threads like a year ago. Also would like to know where to find adapters for house AC as well... Amazon. They sell yellow jacket gauges which seem to be highly regarded (according to motronic)
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Aug 10, 2015 02:45
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If you have an accumulator - But you need gauges - simply throwing parts at a car is much more expensive than proper diagnostics. edit:  yeah i was thinking something else.But this is what most of them look like - your results may vary depending on your system. 
BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Aug 11, 2015 |
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Aug 11, 2015 21:54
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Blend doors. The Silverado/suburban family is notorious on eating blend door motors.
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Aug 16, 2015 02:35
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If you have a known leak, first fix all the leaks, then replace the drier. I am not sure why you would keep replacing the drier after each leak fix attempt.
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Aug 21, 2015 21:38
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Darchangel posted:I only worry about it if the system is open for an extended period, and a little leak doesn't count as "open". As long as it's not just air in the system for more than a few minutes, it should be OK, especially if you vac thoroughly. Worked for me so far. I was under the presumption that he had the system open replacing/fixing poo poo. A few minutes - yeah no problem.
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Aug 21, 2015 22:37
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Good deal, those blend door motors are on tons of gm poo poo, but they seem to poo poo them selves badly on the 01-06 suburbans/silverados
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Sep 3, 2015 22:46
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I would bet the evaporator froze up. Do jeeps of that era have a cabin filter? I know reduced air flow won't help the cause.
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Oct 26, 2015 05:41
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