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ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


jhcain posted:

OK, I need some expert advice.

New install of a Classic Auto Air system in my 1966 Charger. System fully installed, hoses made, buttoned up. Took it to be vacuumed and charged yesterday. Did the vacuum leak check, passed. Hooray!

Went to charge the system, and it filled to 8oz (out of the 24oz full charge) and slowed down. It would creep up, and eventually got to 20 oz or so, and the machine gave up. It was late, so we disconnected, and let it go.

Before firing up the car, I hand cranked the compressor (as instructed by Classic). Fired up the car, gave the system a try, and the compressor engaged (must be not-freon in there) and.. No cold air. Not even cool.

Today, recovered the freon from the system, vacuumed again, and.. Still won't take a charge - it really doesn't want to take more than 10oz before the process really slows down.

So, what sayeth the sooth? I'd speculate a blockage somewhere, but where, on a brand new system? Why won't it take the refrigerant, and then cool?

Oh, this needs to be functioning, ideally, by next Saturday when I depart for the Hot Rod Power Tour... 3200 miles in 8 days would be more comfortable with AC at least available!

Did you run the system at all while you were charging it? Depending on what side you're feeding into the pressure in the system can exceed that in the can. So if you're feeding on the high side alone it won't take the whole charge, so you have to feed into the low side til you can run the compressor and get lower pressures in the system. At which point you can charge by your pressure/temp chart.

Make sure if you're feeding it in a liquid you do it in shots, so as to not slug the compressor.

And you will need a proper set of high and low gauges.

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ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


Motronic posted:

There is no reason to do this on a running system. And it's actively hazardous.


And if you're in a hurry you jump the low pressure cut out. But you shouldn't need to on a properly working system unless you're a volume shop working on time.


Feeding liquid into a running system is a seriously special use case/things are already hosed up situation. This is what you do when you have a pressurized machine that is feeding by weight when the system is off (read: nobody here that doesn't own a shop has the equipment to do this).


This is pretty much the one thing we can actually agree on.

I never said you feed into the high side while it's running. Given standard operating pressures you wouldn't be able to do that anyways. You're never going to get a 70psi can to charge into a 130psi line. I mean if he's feeding into a perfectly vacuumed empty system. Cause at that point it really doesn't matter when you're working with vapor, unless you have a TXV.

And feeding liquid into the low side really isn't that uncommon, and it's quite simple to do. I've done it plenty of times on on a variety of equipment in the classes I've been taking. You fill the hose with liquid, and only the hose, then cut off from the can, and charge slowly into the suction side. Watch you're pressures, and repeat as necessary. Like I said, you do it in shots, so as not to slug the compressor.

E. After a quick Googleing it looks like the Classic system does come with a TXV, so it might be a problem with that not being able to sense the suction line temp and throttle the refrigerant. When you were installing the system, did it tell you where to place the sensing bulb for the TXV?

ExplodingSims fucked around with this message at 02:53 on May 31, 2014

ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


Motronic posted:

Look no offense, but you've admitted to being class for this. This denotes a lack of real world experience.

The only things that need to be charged as a liquid in a running system are azeotropics which, in the opinion of this thread (me), are not worth using because they are half measures that end up costing more than they are worth in the context of automotive AC.

Please don't take this is a FU. Contribute as you can, but support your assertions. In this context I'm asking where/why on an automotive AC system you would ever need to add R-12 or R-134a as a liquid into a running system unless you are trying to make time (and that's not what this thread is about....its about teaching newbs how to do this poo poo).


No offense taken, but my teachers are both techs who've been in the field since they were like 17, so I think it's pretty good info. Plus we do actually do a lot of work on all kinds of systems. And yes, you probably won't be using the liquid charging method much in this context, unless like you said, he's using an azeotropic.

ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


DJ Commie posted:

That'd be it. Are there adapters for sale somewhere or should I try to buy that single hose for my gauge set?

Yeah, I ran into the same problem on my Jeep, luckily they're not at all hard to find.
Take your pick: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=r12+high+side+adapter&_frs=1

E. @Darchangel, I've never seen anything quite like that, but jeep seems to like to do questionable things. My '92 Cherokee used king valves on its setup for some reason.

ExplodingSims fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Jul 3, 2014

ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


Nitrogen would be the ideal setup, yes. You don't really want to use compressed air due to the moisture in it, but I guess if you're going to vacuum it out anyways though air won't be the end of the world.

ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


PaintVagrant posted:

Is there a way to clean the evaporator?

Cabin air filter is brand new. Ill try getting it to fail, it takes some time though now that I put that can in.

I don't think there's any easy way to get to the evap in a car, but they do make an areosol evap cleaner you can try and spray in the box if you feel like taking half your dash apart.
It just sprays on, and the condensate washes it off over time.

ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


FatCow posted:

If it was a blockage wouldn't the low side be low?

If it's a TXV not modulating properly, or a blocked dryer or something, then no. It'll still let gas though, but it won't be flashing off properly.
Also 45psig is on the higher side for your suction line, so sounds like a restriction for sure. Or your condenser fan isn't running.

Soup in a Bag posted:

The A/C in my girlfriend's 2007 Chevy Aveo 5 does not cool at all. I borrowed a gauge set from Auto Zone and the static pressure is correct and close to the same on the high and low sides, but the low side is a little higher than than the high side. The high side shows the right pressure for 92º, but the low side is pointing toward about 96º. Is that enough difference to mean there's probably an obstruction? It's near the top of the low side's range so it's harder to tell the exact temp it's lining up with, but it's definitely higher than 92º. The car had been off for around 2 hours at that point and the A/C has never been serviced before.

Also, even though the compressor and fan turn on when the A/C is turned on, the pressures don't change at all. I figure that's probably bad, yeah? I don't know exactly how long it hasn't been cooling or how often it's been turned on even though it doesn't work.

Are you sure the compressor clutch is engaging? Because unless you just don't have your gauges on there right, then you should see at least a little compression while it's running.

ExplodingSims fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Jul 17, 2015

ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


Your getting a pressure drop because your raising the subcooling with the additional fan.
Better cooling = more liquid flow = lower pressures.

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ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


It's totally possible for the cap to go bad within a year. For the most part they're not all that long lived.

FYI from experience in the field AMRAD or Titan are the best capacitors.

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