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Was gonna say, CFCs and HCFCs produce REALLY NASTY poo poo when they burn. Stay the hell away, and preferably just avoid them burning at all. I need to put the AC system in my jeep back together again... it had a definite leak in the evap core and I didn't have one on hand when I did the heater core, so it looks like 3 hours to pull the dash/HEVAC box again some night after work. Oh well, should still be worth it. I guess I should find out where I can buy/borrow a vacuum pump - speaking of which, Motronic, the link in your post for the vacuum pump on amazon appears to be broken, it looks like you got hit by the URL ellipses. Copy/paste from a previous AC thread caused it, maybe? e: actually, ALL the tool links you posted are broken the same way. Is this the vacuum pump you have or is it another one? http://www.amazon.com/FJC-6912-Vacu...y+5+vacuum+pump kastein fucked around with this message at 14:13 on Mar 30, 2014 |
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Mar 30, 2014 14:08
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The funny thing is that that would have worked a lot better if he put the epoxy on the inside of the leak. Try cleaning it off with MEK/acetone/methylene chloride/aircraft remover yet? The problem with epoxy is that it's so awesomely chemical resistant (for most things) that you have to basically go straight for the big guns when you need to get it off.
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Apr 1, 2014 20:33
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Fucknag posted:HAHAHA Imo you will be fine.
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Apr 5, 2014 22:26
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Motronic posted:Without seeing it that's a reasonable guess the the compressor needs to be replaced. So you also need an expansion valve - or hope you can unclog it. To add to this, if some of that stuff is presently eating itself alive and contaminating the poo poo out of the rest of the system, it'd probably be wise to just replace everything, else contaminated parts left in the system may pass the gift on to the new parts you put in. Flushing it might help, but I sure wouldn't want to trust it. I guess it depends on what you find when you open the system, if there's gross poo poo and corrosion or metal powder/flakes everywhere, I'd just shotgun it and replace drat near everything in the system. If it looks mostly clean, maybe just replace what seems to be bad.
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Apr 13, 2014 04:00
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Well, the evap core is just a big aluminum radiator inside the dash, so you won't hurt it at all by flushing it and back flushing it with some sort of solvent if it turns out to be full of gunk. So that's fairly reasonable.
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Apr 13, 2014 11:24
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I'd worry more about the fact that the rattle might have been refrigerant slugging the compressor than the cost of 150 grams of refrigerant.
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May 2, 2014 20:00
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rndmnmbr posted:'97 Blazer, A/C blew hot when I bought it. Borrowed my brother's gauges, zero pressure. Went ahead and added two cans of 134a plus some dye, enjoyed cool-but-not-cold A/C for a day or so intending to pick up the final needed can of 134a on my next paycheck. Next day, A/C blows hot again, start checking with a UV lamp, to discover that the entire charge had puked itself right back out of the high pressure fill port. If the fill ports have had their plastic caps left off for a significant period of time and the valves are dirty, blast em out with compressed air and/or some brakleen and let it evaporate before replacing them. You don't want a pinch of dust and grit falling into the line while the valve is out.
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Aug 15, 2014 15:06
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Same stuff. R134a is R134a. And that tech is a sloppy lawbreaking rear end in a top hat who should not be used again...
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Jan 25, 2015 19:20
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Geirskogul posted:Canned air is r134, but not r134a. R 134a is F3-C-C-FH2 whereas canned air is F2H-C-C-F2H. One decomposes much faster in the upper atmosphere. I'll let you guess which. The stuff I used to buy all the time was 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane, which is R134a. You're describing 1,1,2,2-tetrafluoroethane, which is R134 like you said but I've never seen it anywhere ever, by CAS number, chemical name, or R-number :dunno: Most I see these days is either R134a or R152a. With bitterant, which is great when you use the drat stuff right before eating. gently caress. 
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Jan 28, 2015 19:49
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Plan on needing a receiver/dryer and a variety of green HNBR O-rings as well. No O-ring should ever be reused on AC stuff. Clean the ends of lines and fittings obsessively with acetone and even an acid brush (the little tin handled ones, they have natural fiber bristles and won't dissolve in acetone) if there is any grungy stuff stuck to them - before putting the new O-rings on. I think you mean TXV valve but not sure. Whether you need one is a question for Motronic, I don't know the answer to that.
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Jun 7, 2015 23:56
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Couldn't too much cause hydrolocking/slugging of the compressor? I always figured the oil quantity was chosen so most would stay in a few places and only enough to lube but not slug the compressor could make its way that far uphill at any given time.
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Jun 14, 2015 13:34
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Ahh, that's what I was missing. I completely forgot the whole point of using the right oil is that it's miscible with the refrigerant and travels with it.
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Jun 14, 2015 21:28
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I would just run R152 instead. I would love to hear how R290 is different from propane, though, C3H8 is C3H8. Unless you are counting the methyl mercaptan added to liquefied propane as a leak detection scent, which likely won't cause that much of an issue.
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Jun 17, 2015 04:36
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Fair enough, and yeah, I've seen an awful lot of the "100mpg carbs, faked moon landings, chemtrails, and jet fuel can't melt steel beams" sorts posting about it and no one actually doing it, so you're likely right.
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Jun 17, 2015 05:47
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Brigdh posted:Thanks for this utterly unhelpful post. Due to the packaging on this car, the worst case is actually a nonfunctional car, which I'd like to avoid unexpected instances of since its my primary vehicle. He said functional AC, not functional car. As long as you don't nuke the idler bearing on the compressor clutch assembly (which is REALLY HARD TO DO and doesn't usually involve the AC system at all) you can just unplug the clutch coil, shrug, and drive to work in your un-air-conditioned car.
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Jun 24, 2015 18:03
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Brigdh posted:The compressor is right next to the cooling system radiator. Unlikely, sure, but if the compressor decides to grenade, its taking out the cooling system with it. He did say worst case.... Compressors grenading are very, very uncommon. And usually it's just one silly little compressor conrod saying peekaboo through the side of the housing. At which point you unplug the clutch wire (not like it matters, since neither pressure switch will ever turn on and therefore the clutch will never be energized) and continue driving.
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Jun 24, 2015 20:02
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Just fixed the AC in my boring DD forester with advise from the OP. Thanks dude, beer's on me at NEAI. First time I've ever had AC that lasted more than a few hours before leaking out again, and I am ruined. I don't think I can drive cars without AC anymore. This is amazing, why did you guys not tell me? Next we might get flush toilets and hot water here.
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Jul 6, 2015 02:56
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Sure sounds like a blockage somewhere, unless the ambient temp is well in excess of 110F.
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Jul 16, 2015 23:29
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Not only that, walmart cans (the white ones with blue lettering) are stopleak free, as far as I could tell reading the ingredients list! So that's what I bought. So far so good, I've had working AC in the Forester for a month or two now.ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Another crosspost with the mechanical failure thread I think that might actually be dirtier on the inside than the outside. Impressive.
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Aug 13, 2015 00:47
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I have successfully diagnosed my AC error code:
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If the drier is a pain to replace, expensive, or I forgot to buy one 'cause I'm an idiot, I'll do without and just vac for a long time. Otherwise it gets replaced... and the O-rings. Don't forget those, or you'll be chasing a leak. Ignore the HF HNBR O-ring kit, they have so much mold flash on them they seal worse than the originals.
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Aug 21, 2015 23:19
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Well. It looks like I have R12 adapter fittings and 60oz of e: I know I don't need 60oz for the car it's going in, but a 6pack of 10oz cans was the cheapest stuff on amazon that I could find an MSDS for, so I went for it. I guess I probably should have ordered some of the proper lubricant oil as well. Pretty sure it just needs a recharge, last time I checked it still had a bit of pressure left in the lines, and would sometimes fast cycle, just not enough to actually work. kastein fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Sep 3, 2015 |
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Sep 3, 2015 20:21
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Yeah, IIRC Ester oil is the right kind. I'm pretty sure Esther oil is some old testament poo poo  It's getting vacuumed down, yeah, and I may toss a drier at it too while I'm in there, if it passes leak check. If not, it gets fixed and then gets a drier thrown in as well. e: turns out most R12 systems used mineral oil, and most R134a systems use PAG (Poly Alkylene Glycol) oils. Ester oils work nicely as a go between because they are miscible in both mineral oil and R12, as well as compatible with R134a and I assume R152a. Since I know this system hasn't been messed with and will have no R12 left in it, ester it is. It sounds like mineral oil is NOT compatible with R152a though, so I should flush the system - Motronic, any input on that? I'll go read again in the meanwhile. e: NOPE ester oil is alrightish, but PAG oil and a flush is the best. Updating this to avoid confusion from others reading the thread. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Sep 3, 2015 |
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Sep 3, 2015 23:09
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After re-reading the thread (specifically the end of page 4 and some of page 5 I found relevant info) it seems best to flush the system and put either PAG 46 or PAG 100 (depending on compressor oil viscosity spec) in. So I'll plan on doing that. Ester oil may be acceptable but if I have to open the system either way I'm going to do it properly with PAG oil and a flush. Time to order a receiver/drier, flush kit, and some PAG oil I guess! if I can't find the bottle I have around anyways.
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Sep 3, 2015 23:32
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I wash my hands with acetone sometimes so we shall see. It better be good poo poo. e:  the MSDS doesn't even list what's actually in it, they just swear it won't really hurt you. Four Seasons says theirs has 1,1,1,2,3,4,4,5,5,5-decafluoropentane, dimethyl carbonate, pentafluorobutane, and trans-dichloroethylene in it, which all have a very concerning and promising level of halogenation to them. I'm intrigued. This poo poo better taste good 
kastein fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Sep 3, 2015 |
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Sep 3, 2015 23:40
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If you try to flush hoses, flush them both directions in case something is worked into a hose barb somewhere along the line. Flex the hoses a bit while doing this.Geirskogul posted:Stupid question, but I'm pretty sure the schrader valves on my 1998 Explorer (4.0 SOHC) are leaking. I don't see how they come out. Are they replaceable themselves (with a standard dryer/vacuum/recharge/etc) or do I have to buy the whole fittings? Yes. Some of them, specifically one of the ones on an Explorer (I just did this on my dad's '01 5.0L Explorer) are too large to use a normal tire valve stem tool on, but that was easily remedied by ghetto hacking a tool using a piece of properly sized steel round rod stock and an angle grinder. Make sure to deburr and clean thoroughly before using such a tool.
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Oct 1, 2015 22:24
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When you say spin the compressor by hand, are you spinning the compressor shaft itself, or the pulley, and with the clutch engaged or disengaged? First time I checked one I forgot that spinning the pulley only spins the compressor if the clutch is engaged, and was very confused  How's the voltage at the clutch with it plugged in? If the clutch driver is mostly burned out, it could still have enough left in it to drive your 10 megohm impedance DMM to 13V, but nowhere near enough to make the low impedance clutch winding actually activate.
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Oct 9, 2015 16:05
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Try swapping the AC compressor clutch relay with the starter motor relay, assuming they are the same base. If you can't start the car anymore, you know why!
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Oct 9, 2015 18:57
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I thought you could slug the compressor with oil just like you can slug it with liquid refrigerant... maybe I am misunderstanding something.
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Nov 16, 2015 20:37
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Yes. The dye is actually dyed oil and when you put it in the system it mixes with the rest of the oil already there.
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May 3, 2016 17:22
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Maybe reverse pressurize it to blow all the poo poo back out whence it came?
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May 13, 2016 23:28
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The latter. Unlikely to do much, but it's worth a shot I guess. Duct tape most of the vents closed and blast an air chuck into the last one maybe?
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May 13, 2016 23:37
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scuz posted:I'm seriously green here, how does this help me? Where could I find such things? Also when I tried to jumper the high side plug, nothing kicked on, but I don't know whether I was jumpering it correctly. I'm just gonna bring it in If you reread the first few posts of the thread a couple times it gets easier to understand.
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Jun 9, 2016 16:36
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CommieGIR posted:Yeah, half the AC threads in other forums turn into political grandstanding and moronic conspiracy theories. You can poke the hole anywhere. Gravity allows you to just turn the can till the spot you poked is at the bottom... I've always put it right in the middle of the can simply because it was convenient.
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Jun 10, 2016 17:50
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Fair enough, I've never had that issue but I've only used a can tap like 2-3 times, so statistically my data is pretty useless.
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Jun 10, 2016 18:35
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revmoo posted:Anyone know how to bypass the pressure switch on a 1995 Lincoln Town Car? Hit the junkyard and grab a pigtail that looks like yours. Probably no more than $5, $0 if the counter guy thinks you aren't a shithead.
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Jun 17, 2016 21:45
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That being said, flushing it out is probably the best idea because guess what, that old oil isn't going anywhere. Is it compatible with the new refrigerant/new oil? Maybe, maybe not, but why leave it in? It looks like my R12 to R152a conversion on the Roadmaster will happen shortly (assuming I can still find all the stuff I bought for that project) because summer is now in full swing here and we spent yesterday driving around in it, sweating. Only two years with the Forester's AC working and I'm never going back.
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Jun 27, 2016 20:50
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Depending on whether the clutch can be replaced without disassembling the compressor, and whether the condensor looked lovely anyways, sure.
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Jun 27, 2016 22:43
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From looking at the charts of refrigerant properties, I think either one will work, really. Pressures and temps are all "pretty close" but then again I'm not an AC professional.code:R12 recommended compressor oil: mineral oil R134a recommended compressor oil: PAG oil (46, 100, or 150 is the viscosity and you should use whatever the compressor manufacturer specifies) - NOT compatible with mineral oils R152a recommended compressor oil, per internet forums: ester oil, which is allegedly compatible with both residual mineral oils and residual PAG oils. First step: find out how many generations of rodents have made nests in your HEVAC plenums. The fan might be fine, but trying to blow air through a four inch thick stack of pine needles. And you don't want your truck burning down like Sandbagger's did. e: added refrigerant and oil info kastein fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Jul 6, 2016 |
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Jul 6, 2016 17:24
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That looks like rust. Rust from steel. Something has been dripping rusty water on top of that thing and it's been drying out there. Either that or the top is steel while the sides are aluminum which seems odd. The inside of the capacitor may or may not be perfectly fine, or completely trashed. They're sealed units and outside condition does not correlate to inside condition.
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Jul 15, 2016 14:33
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Maybe condensation is forming on the underside of that top cover, dripping down the bolt, the droplet collects rust from the tip of the bolt and then drips onto the capacitor? I can't quite tell if it's a straight shot from the bolt to the cap.
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Jul 15, 2016 14:56
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