Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Locked thread
revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
Having a vacuum pump and gauge set is cheap insurance.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
A recharge will cost most/all of the price of gauges and vacuum pump. Borrowing them from Autozone will be even cheaper.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
Numbers seem just a touch off, but to my untrained eye nothing that would be catastrophic and probably within the range of error between your gauge set and thermometer. I think with the vent temps you're getting and considering the age of the car you're probably good to go. Motronic? :)

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
Well you can always top-off. I've got a punctured can that's been sitting on a can tap for about a year now.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta

Cage posted:

Heres a silly question, I drive a car with a V8 and in the summer I might only use the A/C once or twice because Id rather have the windows down and listen to the engine. Id like to keep it working well, though. Should I fire it up each week for a certain amount of time or is there some sort of preventative maintenance I can do to keep it working nicely?

Yes. I know there are some newer cars that try and cycle the A/C as much as possible, but as a general rule it's a good idea to run A/C on a regular basis.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
R12 systems generally were better, however new systems have been 'up-sized' to accommodate the reduced efficiency of R134 and work just fine. You really only get screwed in cars that were manufactured to use R12 and converted to r134.

That said, my converted 23 year old vehicle blows ice cold on the hottest days (I get condensation on the vents), so I think it's mainly important that your system is in good working condition.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
Can I ask about house AC? My house unit is freezing up and I'm pretty sure it's just a little low. I have no record of it being topped off within the last decade.

What all do I need to top this off? I assume refrigerant and an adapter for my gauge set? What pressures do I need to aim for? Where do I get refrigerant? How do I determine what refrigerant and connector types my house has? Or are they pretty much universal?

I can use my buddy's account at the local AC contractor supply but I need to know what to ask for first so I don't walk in there and sound like an idiot.

E: This seems like a pretty solid guide: http://www.wikihow.com/Charge-a-Home-Air-Conditioner

Can you buy small cans?

revmoo fucked around with this message at 20:12 on May 9, 2014

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
Answering my own questions, you can buy small cans. Also I checked and the unit is R22. That's the same connector as R12, right?

Where can I find a R12 fitting for R134 gauges?

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
I want to use my R134 gauge set, so I need an adapter to go from the quick-release connectors to the schrader valve. This is an impossible part to google for because everybody is going the other direction (converting old gauges to new connectors) and I want to convert newer gauges to older connectors.

That's interesting that you're saying house ac doesn't lose pressure over time (even 10-20 years?). I think I still want to go ahead and top it off to get me through at least the summer. I'll add dye while I'm at it to aid in finding leaks. I'll check my evaporator out before making any orders. Thanks for the advice.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
You have to be certified for r134 in Texas?

Also I have another question--what is the noise that some A/C units make that sounds like cshhweehhwshshhhhhh--kind of a swishy noise from inside (not the compressor)? Is that a sign of a clogged capillary/TXV?

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
Man why in the world aren't all accumulators like that? It makes a lot more sense.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
My house AC went out right in the middle of last summer. Ended up that the stupid power company demand conservation box the previous owner had installed went bad. When I disconnected it from the unit it immediately started kicking on.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
Kind of does, that low of a vent temp with that high of an outside temp seems like that would be the case. Or it could be low and tripping the compressor cutoff, either would display the same symptoms right?

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta

some texas redneck posted:

I haven't put a set of gauges on it yet, but if this happened to you, what would be your first guess?

Leaking evap core. (hopefully not)

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
I highly recommend doing a drier replacement on anything that isn't performing well. Replacing the drier on my car and doing a vacuum/fill dropped my temps by something like 25 degrees.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
It's ok to leave the system open but you need to vacuum twice. Once with the original drier and then again with the new drier.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
Hah I used to think that it was important to go get refrigerant recovered, and then I realized that canned air and airbrush kits vent r134 directly to the atmosphere and nobody seems to care.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
I need to replace the compressor in a SCFF552D commercial freezer aboard a boat. It uses R134a and since it's commercial I'm assuming it can be done without brazing the lines. Anybody know what type of connectors/adapters I'd need to connect my automotive manifold set to this unit? Any ideas on where I could locate a shop manual?

EDIT: Holy poo poo. Called the company to ask a few questions. They are the rudest motherfuckers I've talked to this week. I'm just going to recommend a replacement of a different brand.

revmoo fucked around with this message at 22:04 on May 26, 2015

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta

BrokenKnucklez posted:

My R134 gauges unscrew at the ends and already have R12 fittings, but mine are from HF.

Mine don't. If anyone can actually find R134>R12 adaptors for gauges let me know please I have looked quite a bit. I think I actually even asked in one of these threads like a year ago. Also would like to know where to find adapters for house AC as well...

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta

EightBit posted:

The performance enhancer will be another gas that alters the performance of the refrigerant. It turns your R134a+oil system into an unknown mixture that you can no longer properly diagnose with pressure and temperature readings, though.

Yup. You dont need mystery snake oil ingredients to get ice cold ac.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta

IOwnCalculus posted:

Only vaguely related to all of that - how the hell is it that my CR-V, which takes a full charge at only about 14oz of R134a, consistently kicks the poo poo out of my WJ in terms of A/C performance? The CR-V's A/C is one of the best I've ever seen here in an AZ summer.

Probably more efficient evaporator/condenser design.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
Anyone know how to bypass the pressure switch on a 1995 Lincoln Town Car?

Looks like squirrels ate wiring on the pigtail and the car needs to drive to FL this weekend.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta

scuz posted:

Tape the ends together! :buddy:

Kind of figured that was all that was necessary just wanted to check there's not gonna be any surprises.

Pep Boys was like :shrug: we can't get the pigtail or sensor before you leave town, sorry. I was like dude I'm pretty sure I can get that AC working enough for a road trip. I'll just tell her to get it fixed properly when she gets home.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta

CommieGIR posted:

If the pressures are good and the AC isn't leaking, its not going to do any harm.

Right. If there was a leak it could grenade your compressor, probably toss a belt, and strand you/overheat your engine, but in reality I think for a single road trip it's worth a roll of the dice.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta

kastein posted:

Hit the junkyard and grab a pigtail that looks like yours. Probably no more than $5, $0 if the counter guy thinks you aren't a shithead.

I was able to repair the existing one by borrowing some leads off a PC Molex cable.

New problem; compressor runs, pressures are good, AC lines are icy, car blows nothing but hot air. Blend door issue perhaps? Anything else it could be?

e: Anyone know of a hack to temporarily move the door?


E2: I'm just gonna bypass the heater core. That will work right?

E3: Ok, I bypassed the heater core. TIL Oreilly's sells fittings that can do just that. Put some rubber caps on the exposed pipes and called it a day. AC works. I also discovered that Town Cars have a HVAC self-diagnostic routine. I ran it and it confirmed my blend door diagnosis.

revmoo fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Jun 19, 2016

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
FYI you can test those with a multimeter.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta

Dagen H posted:

2001 Chrysler Sebring: A/C works fine. Shut car off and restart, and it throws heat. Repeat at random. When it works it works great, so it doesn't seem to be low on refrigerant. Any ideas?

Blend door.

  • Locked thread