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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

namlosh posted:

Hey does anyone have any recommendations for a grill thermometer that uses WiFi or something else? Most of them are Bluetooth so they lose connection too easily if you’re not outside with the grill. Extra points for one thats HA aware since I run HomeAssistant.

I haven’t even googled for it yet. I’m torn between buying one, and trying to create one with an ESP32 dev board, a battery, and a couple of thermocouples. I figured I’d see if there were any that people here liked

If you forget the HA compatibility, and you should, just get this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KZR4F23/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this on my smoker. I hung the transmitter too close to it one time and it kind melted the battery cover and some of the corners a bit. I emailed support to see if I could buy a plastics kit so I could gut and replace. They said "we'll take care of it, just give us your address" and they shipped an entire new set - sender, receiver and probes. I have it sitting in my basement storage area because this was a cosmetic issue only, that I caused. So I really have to give it to them on support.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

I'm going on 5 years of ESXi with a passthrough USB zwave stick and passthought serial port. It just works. There are no issues at all.

I used to have a serial port pass though issue where if you rebooted it wouldn't work, but if you powered down and restarted it would, but even that's not a thing anymore.

(serial port is for control of a monoprice multi-zone amplifier)

Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Aug 21, 2023

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

ShoeFly posted:

I just did the same, moved my HA install from a dedicated box to a VM. I'm shocked how easy it was, all my custom integrations, camera feeds, Zigbee2MQTT setup etc just worked out of the box. The only thing I had to do was enable USB passthrough for my Zigbee dongle but that was very simple.

One of the things HA did such an excellent job on is backup and restore. It didn't use to be that way :) But they definitely have nailed it.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

taiyoko posted:

Check your battery settings. Battery > battery usage > HA app > set it to unrestricted. It sounds like Android's power optimization is loving with the app's ability to send notifications.

So I figured this out. There is a deviceidle service that apparently gives unpredictable results for a lot of people/on a lot of phones. It's not a new problem at all. Lots of people have this issue and most of them probably don't even know about it. It's entirely rectified by disabling it.

code:
adb shell dumpsys deviceidle disable
I do not think this persists a reboot. But so far it's entirely sorted the issue, which typically happens after the screen has been locked for 5+ minutes but sometimes sooner.

How ridiculous. Do people just not really care/notice delayed notifications?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

ToxicFrog posted:

Can anyone recommend an outdoor-rated, zigbee-controlled type-B outlet? Or, alternately, a low-profile one that will fit into an existing protective enclosure?

Problem description: I have a birdbath with a heater that keeps it liquid through the winter. I want it to be automatically controlled based on exterior temperature rather than needing to manually plug and unplug it, especially in the spring and fall where we're getting temperature swings of >20°/day. At the moment it plugs into an exterior GFCI outlet recessed into the back wall of the house, and covered in a little protective clamshell that folds shut leaving a hole at the bottom for the cables.

I have Zigbee outlet dongles (these sonoff ones), but they're too wide to fit into the recess in the wall. Local stores sell some outdoor-rated smart plugs but they're all wifi + cloud services rather than locally controlled. Something with this form factor would probably work well, but I'm not about to buy from Amazon, especially not in the "five identical listings with different brand names" genre.

I'm not sure I've ever seen this type of heater without a thermostat built in to it already. Are you sure it doesn't have that?

Also, freeze thermostats plug throughs are common and like $12 pretty much anywhere that sells ag stuff. Not sure why you would want to overcomplicate this.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

ToxicFrog posted:

I can't find anything like that at the local ag shops :shrug: maybe I'm just looking in the wrong places/using the wrong search terms? That would be a lot simpler.

"Freeze stat" and "thermostatically controlled plug" are good starting points to find one the right shape/size for what you need.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/farm-innovators-thermostatically-controlled-outlet

https://www.amazon.com/Add-A-Stat-T...tection&sr=8-16

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

IUG posted:

Ah, that’s why I couldn’t have Siri close my garage door earlier.

This is why from time to time I beat the drum of my local only approach to home automation. It's absolutely possible these days.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Kibner posted:

I'm paranoid so I always want a physical key option in case we leave for vacation or something and comeback and the electronic lock is unpowered and whoops now we can't get in our house.

The Schlages I have are zwave (so they would need a gateway/controller) but they have a keypad and key as well. I have seen wifi version that look the same, I'm just not sure what service(s) they are compatible with. Maybe something like that would work.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Fancy_Lad posted:

I'm looking at smart switch options and have a subset of switches that need to be always powered because there's smart bulbs on the other side of them.

Then why would you want or need a switch at all, other than to power fail them if they need to be reset? Certainly not a smart switch.

I'd use a regular switch with a guard over it to let people know to leave it alone.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Fancy_Lad posted:

Guests and wife acceptance factor mostly. We are primarily using voice to control them now, but everyone in the world knows how to slap a switch on the wall...

So you want a zwave/whatever controller, not a switch and you just want it to look like a switch. That makes sense.....not what I was thinking of based on what you said (I have all physical zwave switches but no smart bulbs so I didn't consider the extras with that scenario)

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

HolHorsejob posted:

Anyone know of any smart plugs that don't rely on external servers and have decent-quality relays? I bought some Athom smart plugs a while back. They were advertised as being rated for 16A loads, but they failed after a few months of switching a 12A load a few times daily. I looked deeper and the relays themselves are only rated for 10A.

Talking about 16A loads makes me think you are asking about non-US electrical, so you should probably specify exactly what standard of plugs/receptacles you need.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

the yeti posted:

That's pretty lightweight, I wasn't sure how essential the coral module was but if it keeps cpu that far down.

I haven't even begun to look at cameras yet but it sorta seems like they can run 60-70$ up to infinity?

Yeah. I'm on "team $60 camera". I have a bunch of reolinks that are POE and weatherproof. They work great, but call home to china CONSTANTLY, so they are in their own VLAN that has no other devices and no internet access. The only other thing in there is the secondary NIC of my recording setup (I use Blue Iris).

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

FunOne posted:

Is there any difference between the Nest Thermostats available other than one comes with a fancy OLED display?

Really tempted to upgrade both thermostats so I can turn the heat on without getting out of bed.

Do not buy Nest thermostats. They are absolute garbage that have and will continue to ruin HVAC systems due to multiple software issues (that come and go as they are updated) and bad solid state relays that have no supervision so when they go bad/half closed the thermostat doesn't have any way of knowing or alerting you. This has been going on since the very first models, they have claimed they have fixed it, and it still happens.

If you want something with similar but better features/app for your phone with no other infrastructure required look at Ecobee.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

VelociBacon posted:

I always feel this compulsion and I guess tonight I'm turning into Mr. Hyde about this poo poo. I work as a respiratory therapist, obviously in the hospital and not like doing home IT installations but I really think that people monitoring the CO2 in their own homes is some crazy poo poo. If you can detect that it's stuffy in your home yourself, that's the only indicator of low ventilation that you really need. If you crack a few windows in your house, or a window in your condo, that's gotta be pretty much good enough right? I feel like this feeds into people's anxieties and makes them obsess over numbers floating in their air instead of just being reasonable. I spend hours and hours every week worrying about the CO2 in people and it kills me to see people decide to start worrying about it at home for what I perceive to be no good reason. Why???

I've questioned this from the other side: most of these sensors, even the "expensive" ones aren't expensive enough, installed properly, calibrated properly and recalibrated properly enough to be real data.

I don't understand the point. What action does this data drive? Either automated or otherwise? Same for temp and humidity per room.

People are real wrapped up in it though, and will fight about it. I think they're just feeding their anxiety a-la step counter.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Unless those rooms are separate and sealed climate zones what actions can you take based on that data vs. the data for the house/floor that you're probably already getting from your thermostat for temp and humidity?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Kibner posted:

For my household, it would be good to have a temp sensor in the bedroom, the office, and the open living room and change the sensor used for the AC depending on time of day. I work from home, so having the AC set to the office would be great during work hours. Having it switch to the living room/kitchen after work, and then to the bedroom when time for bed would be ideal.

This sounds a lot like bodging a climate control system that is improperly installed/adjusted/has too few returns. Wouldn't it make more sense to fix the root cause rather than selectively freezing rooms you aren't currently in to make up for rooms with insufficient circulation?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Kibner posted:

How would I do that with a single central AC unit in a two-story townhome? The office has two computers, a tv, and multiple consoles so it will always be much warmer than anywhere else in the house while in use. The sun also sets facing the windows in the room so it is the last room to cool down. The bedroom is the complete opposite (almost no electronics, windows facing where the sun rises). The living room area has a higher ceiling than anywhere else and also has windows facing where the sun rises, so it also cools down quicker than the office.

With proper air balancing using the register dampers to start.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

ToxicFrog posted:

temperature sensors have a very real use: this house has serious thermal gradient issues, and having a sensor on each floor gives us an objective measure of whether the stuff we do to mitigate it is actually helping rather than just basing it entirely on Vibes™. A sensor per room would probably be overkill, though.

I completely agree with this. I have a retrofitted AC unit for just the second floor with it's own thermostat (typical for older colonials around here) that I can use for the same purpose. It tells me if I've dampereped enough registers on the first floor during the heating season to get a decent amount of heat to the second floor.

Alternately, if I wanted to go full on automation it could drive addressable dampers but I just don't feel the need for that.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

FunOne posted:

Looks like all my door and window sensors are "DSC" sensors tied into the security system installed in the house. Some light searching didn't turn up much that was straightforward, most of it was about integration with the security system.

I'm not paying for the security system and haven't touched it since I moved in. Should I work down trying to use these wireless sensors already connected to the security system or look to rip and replace with zigbee zwave whatever.

What are you trying to accomplish? And what model (presumably also DSC) panel is installed?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Slash posted:

HACS works fine in a container. These are the Add-Ons which aren't available https://www.home-assistant.io/addons/ and I've never felt the need to use any of them.

And that's fine for your use case, but exceptionally limiting to others. zwave.js and the UI is pretty much table stakes for a lot of people. File editor makes the (fortunately now vanishingly small) parts of HA where you still need to edit files a lot easier to deal with. I wouldn't be able to use my doorbell camera to send alerts when it's pressed without the MQTT broker and Amquest2mqtt add-on.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

biznatchio posted:

Nothing stops you from running those in a separate docker container alongside Home Assistant. The only "exceptionally limiting" thing is that you can't just one-click install from within Home Assistant. Your Amquest2mqtt example, for instance, has docker instructions as the recommended way of running it in its README. I've been running a containerized zigbee2mqtt alongside my Home Assistant container for years now and I've never come up against any "exceptional limits"; nor any unexceptional limits for that matter.

Yes. this is clearly the way to do things, I don't know what I was thinking running the distribution in a virtual machine and having everything just work as designed with a singe place to administer it and one built in backup/restore routine.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

You need to not even think about rolling your own when it comes to common area life safety systems. Not even self-install. You need to call a certified and insured fire protection service company that hopefully your building already uses for common area extinguisher inspection/replacement and get them to spec and install a system that meets the building's needs.

If people with fancy alarm systems want notification of common area alarms they should talk to their system vendors, who almost definitely have a "smoke detector detector" that they can install that will trip when it hears another smoke/system going off. Alternately, and at a pretty large expense, completely isolated loops for apartments could be created with relays/contactors, but I bet you'll not find anyone willing to take on that kind of potential liability.

e: I'm not sure I'd even sign off on a system with extra loops like that. I'd want a stamped plan from a fire protection engineer at a minimum, and I doubt you'd find one that - again- would be willing to take on that kind of professional liability (speaking as a former municipal fire marshal)

Motronic fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Jan 13, 2024

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Henrik Zetterberg posted:

If I have a ceiling fan that has the fan (not light) on/off wired to the wall, does that mean a dimmer would work to control the fan speed?

No, but a fan controller would (it's a different wattage type of "dimmer", a light dimmer is not appropritely speced for this use case and is likely to get very warm and fail quickly).

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Henrik Zetterberg posted:

Sorry, I specifically meant a Lutron Caseta fan speed dimmer. My bad.

Like, would that work for any fan that has the fan on/off wired to the wall? I have a few fans that currently have just a plain on/off switch.

From reading around, it soonds like if a fan is only speed adjustable by a pull chain, it should work if the on/off wires are already run down the wall. Does that sound correct? Basically anything with its own remote wouldn’t work.

Yeah, if it's that type of 3-speed chain controller it's almost definitely an AC fan motor. Leave the chain pull on high and you should be able to control it just fine with a fan controller.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

IUG posted:

I have five fans in my house that are three-speed pull chains that I want to make smart. Two already have smart light bulbs in them (although one fan's set likely needs to be replaced since they're old Ikea bulbs that are starting to misbehave). Otherwise, all the fan's lights work from a standard wall switch. I looked on Google and only found trash. What's a good controller to get?

Okay, the lights work from a wall switch, what about the fans? Can you turn them on and off from another wall switch or do you have to control it with the chain? If you have to control it with the chain, does the fan run if the light switch on the wall is off?

What I'm getting at here is how the fans are wired/what wires are in your walls between the switch box and fan box. The best case scenario is that you have a load wire from your switch location to the lights and a seperate one to the fan. That gives you the most options and will allow you to use a fan/light controller or just a smart fan controller and then a regular smart light switch.

Also, what ecosystem/protocol you want the to be controllable by is important to know.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Henrik Zetterberg posted:

Yeah, I’ve got a few already. I guess my question is, are the requirements to being compatible with the PD-FSQN?

1. chain pull speed adjustment
2. no remote

There’s no 3, right?

There is, but it's really unlikely that you have it. I mean, people can install things wrong. There exist 3-spped chain pull DC fans that have remotes (that may not have been given to you) and/or wall switching that is not dimmer type but actually low voltage signaling to change fan speeds. But those are outliers, I don't beleive there are any standards for them, and if you just set it to high however and throw a PD-FSQN on it it may just work anyway.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

IUG posted:

My fans are all only operated from the pull chain. The lights work from a light switch (but still have the chains, they just stay pulled “on”), except for one fan light that doesn’t have a light switch. I’m using Home Assistant with a Zigbee USB adapter.

Unfortunately that means you'll need to find zigbee fan controllers that get wired into the base of the fans, and this leaves you without a wall switch to control them, although I have seen solutions for that too. I'm in the HA/ZWave ecosystem so I'm not sure what's out there for zigbee.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Yeah, that's been my setup for almost a decade. Well, codeproject.ai is just in the last few years, and has greatly increased the utility of the system.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

toplitzin posted:

What's the camera placement/field of view calculator/layout website thingie you recommended way back when?

https://calculator.ipvm.com/

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