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Lazyhound posted:Are there any third-party solutions for adding voice control to a Philips Hue system? The HomeKit base station requires iCloud Keychain syncing to be turned on, which I don't consider to be acceptable. Homebridge might do the trick for you (assuming you don't want to control from off the wifi network.) Requires some work to setup but it seems to work well. https://github.com/nfarina/homebridge (don't think it requires iCloud Keychain sync, though I do have it turned on, and don't have any Hue lights to test it with.)
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# ¿ Apr 7, 2016 05:37 |
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# ¿ May 5, 2024 13:54 |
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sellouts posted:As long as you don't care about turning them on with voice, just use a hue. Or get a switch guard and a Hue wall switch and then it isn't an issue.
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# ¿ Sep 16, 2016 23:57 |
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Three Olives posted:This is dumb, how would this seem like a desirably situation to anyone sane? It costs $10 less than a Z-Wave wall switch and that doesn't even include the cost of the Hue hub. Wink Hub + Zwave switch = ~ 110 bucks. Non-dimmable (unless you spend more, and have a neutral wire), Siri is a pain. More flexible and can control gangs of lights together without trouble. Requires a willingness to go into a your switch box and wire things. Hue White starter kit plus switch/bulb kit plus switch guard = ~110 bucks. Dimmable, Siri works out of the box, as does Alexa. Three bulbs, so if the switch is controlling a room with multiple bulbs it might not be a great solution. On the other hand, if each room is only lit by a single overhead bulb in a fan or similar, it'll work fine for multiple rooms. No opening up walls. Both approaches have merits, pick the one that makes more sense for your house, but both are options.
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2016 03:21 |
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Frank Dillinger posted:But if a room is lit by multiple bulbs, you can just add more bulbs and group them together as a "room" in the hue or home app. Unless you're using track lights or bulbs that aren't regular lights, then maybe you should consider smart switches instead. Well, it's a cost issue at that point - some of the switches in my house are running gangs of 6 or 8 lights. One switch is a lot cheaper than 8 Hue bulbs there. (Which is why I have both Hue and z-wave switches in my setup.)
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2016 05:34 |
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If you just want HomeKit integration, look into setting up Homebridge - open source bridge between various smart products and HomeKit. I've been using it for ~6 months and it mostly works very well.
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# ¿ Dec 28, 2016 23:50 |
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Lutron.
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# ¿ Feb 5, 2017 00:23 |
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The linked lock doesn't appear to support Bluetooth. You sure you have the right one? (Not aware of simple ways to integrate Bluetooth into a home automation setup.)
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# ¿ Feb 8, 2017 17:21 |
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emocrat posted:So, I will be getting a new entry door soon, so it seems like a good time to look at maybe getting a smart lock. Anyone got impressions, good or bad of the various options out there? The only smart stuff I have in my house right is a couple Insteon switches, so I'm not tied to any particular standard. I have Schlage Connects (Zwave, not Homekit) on my doors. Actual key, no cloud requirement. No fobs - it's basically a code lock with zwave integration. So you can unlock with a code, or (if you have a zwave hub) with an app. Easy to add/remove codes. Good with other automation - mine disarms the security system when a code is entered and kicks on appropriate entry lights. I've been happy with it, but if you're really set on the auto unlock by touch feature it won't do what you want. If you want a passcode lock with home automation integration, it's great. (If you're somewhat technically inclined, you could maybe rig something where your phone associating with your wifi triggers an unlock?)
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# ¿ Apr 20, 2017 22:53 |
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CloFan posted:My house was fitted for Z-wave already when I bought it on all the doors, windows, and a few outlets. Never really used it much, because it had a proprietary Vivent hub that recently died. Can I replace it with a RPi, or is there some other recommended hub? I have a mac mini without a purpose but I read it didn't play well with Z-wave.. I run all my zwave stuff on an RPi 1 with an Aeontec Zwave USB stick. Domoticz for Zwave control and homebridge to expose it all to Siri/HomeKit. Your biggest problem will probably just be figuring out how to exclude and then include all the existing Zwave stuff.
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# ¿ Apr 21, 2017 18:02 |
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Use Domoticz instead and you don't have to gently caress around with HA's aversion to GUIs.
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# ¿ Apr 23, 2017 00:47 |
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Subjunctive posted:Yeah the lease stuff I assume is really variable. I was interested in the houses being sold empty-but-for-TVs for some reason. It’s because it costs more to fix the damage from removing the mount than they lose leaving it behind.
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# ¿ Jul 14, 2017 02:43 |
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DangerZoneDelux posted:Lol no. That would never hold up in court. Whoever told homeboy they own a tv attached to a wall by their tenant is talking out of their rear end. Especially in Texas. When you’re leaving a house it’s not exactly high on your list, especially since you most likely wanted to leave the TV and mount up to stage the house, meaning you’ll have a pretty limited time in which to do it (and that’s also the time when you’re likely either trying to buy a house or packing and moving.). Most people aren’t going to take the time to learn to do sheetrock patching (in a fashion that won’t look like rear end and cause trouble with closing) when they can just write off the $100 wallmount and a cheap tv.
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# ¿ Jul 14, 2017 07:34 |
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Munkaboo posted:None I worked for them for years and want to know how you like it. I can answer any deeper questions. Generally like it (Frontpoint using the alarm.com backend), work out loving HomeKit integration already, and IFTTT support should have been in years ago.
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# ¿ Aug 3, 2017 21:20 |
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WarMECH posted:I have a fence gate that I want to attach a sensor that lets me know when it's open and I can't find anything outdoor rated that works with zwave/smartthings for the life of me. There are lots of threads on the smartthings community site about rigging up homemade devices or trying to waterproof interior-rated devices but nothing seems like it's worth the effort/cost. This seems like a common need, why is there nothing available? http://www.sensative.com/strips.html claims to be weatherproof for outdoors.
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# ¿ Aug 5, 2017 22:22 |
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Burt Sexual posted:What's the opinion on ADT pulse? I mean it's kinda expensive at 57$ a month but that's ok to me if they have Good reliable systems and service. 36 month contract. They don’t do anything anyone else decent doesn’t do and they cost 50% more plus lock in a contract so yeah pass on that.
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# ¿ Aug 7, 2017 22:16 |
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Burt Sexual posted:Seems like all services have at least a 36 month lock, like them, others have lonnng ones. I want it installed too as I'm old and a dumbass. They seem more turnkey. And 24x7 customer service that no one else has? Aaggggh I've been looking for weeks. If you want it installed idk what’s good but the “install” for the Vivint/Frontpoint stuff is pretty brain dead. Basically “stick sensor on windowframe and magnet on window, aligned to each other. Repeat for all windows and doors you care about. Call company.” (I do know Frontpoint doesn’t require a contract, though they will give a significant equipment discount for signing one. Customer service isn’t 24x7 for them, but 8-11 EST on weekdays, 10-7 weekends is close enough.)
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# ¿ Aug 8, 2017 18:37 |
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IAmKale posted:Can you recommend a brand for these? The deadbolt at least is something I'm interested in incorporating into our household but I have no idea how to evaluate these things other than, "well, it supports z-wave". On that note, is there a reputable place to follow z-wave news/reviews/etc...? I have Schlage Zwave+keypad locks. They work well - I use the keypad a lot more than the Zwave tbh, but it is nice to have both. Auto lock is a nice feature also - impossible to forget to lock the door if it locks itself after thirty seconds (and since it’s a keypad no worries about locking yourself out.)
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# ¿ Sep 7, 2017 02:42 |
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A RaspberryPi with a Zwave USB stick running eDomoticz to control Zwave stuff, and a HomeKit bridge (homebridge) along with some plugins to provide HomeKit control of my Zwave switches, Harmony remote, and Nest. (The various Harmony scenes are surfaced to Homekit/Siri as light switches, so I can use Siri to do things like "Siri, turn on Apple TV in the living room.")
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# ¿ Sep 23, 2017 22:34 |
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[quote="“Rick”" post="“476704509”"] I’m really impressed. I knew it was possible but didn’t know anyone who’s done it. [/quote] It honestly isn't that bad to setup - mostly pretty well documented. The Nest integration is the most annoying part (you need to register for Nest API info, though detailed instructions exist). Probably took an hour or two of screwing around in a terminal?
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# ¿ Sep 25, 2017 00:41 |
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Getimmaaw posted:If i got a harmony hub to control my tv in the living room with my alexa, would i have to get a separate hub to control another tv in a different room? Yes, but if the rooms are close and you don’t mind going through walls you can use a wired IR repeater to bridge between the two rooms (I use one to bridge the Harmony Hub into a media cabinet.) Second Hub is probably easier though.
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# ¿ Dec 2, 2017 00:50 |
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Try deleting and re-adding the Hue hub using the Home app?
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# ¿ Dec 2, 2017 04:09 |
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Thermopyle posted:Anyone know any good deals on z-wave or zigbee (anything smartthings compatible) receptacles? Prefer in-wall replacements, but I'd use a plug-in type for the right price. Amazon has a bunch of in-walls for 30-35, depending on manufacturer. That seems to be their typical low on them.
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# ¿ Dec 27, 2017 22:24 |
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Standalone, but if you’re running the pre-packaged version of Home Assistant (hass.io) there are packaged addon versions of Homebridge available.
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# ¿ Jan 4, 2018 16:29 |
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Piggy Smalls posted:I have a 17 year old and 19 year old living in a pretty dumpy apartment. I live an hour away and always worry about their safety. Any recommendations on a security system that would let them know when someone enters or exits the apartment or does some sort of loud alarm? It likely wouldn’t be connected like an ADT type of thing but wouldn’t mind learning about a service I could pay for that wasn’t ADT (I don’t really like ADT). Cheapest would just be a wireless doorbell system that supports door sensors - something like https://www.homedepot.com/p/Honeywell-Wireless-Door-Contacts-RCA901N/202187814 E: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Wireless-Door-Alert-Kit-HB-7900-02/206135504 might be easier even. Kalman fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Feb 27, 2018 |
# ¿ Feb 27, 2018 00:16 |
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housefly posted:No experience, but what exactly is the point of having these other than achieving peak laziness? I mean, there’s a good argument to be made for the illusion of security they comes from having the blinds appear to open and close when you’re not home, but wouldn’t it be one more thing to have to put batteries in? I guess I just don’t get it. Skylights and other inaccessible windows, for one.
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# ¿ Mar 11, 2018 00:31 |
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stevewm posted:Home Assistant can expose basically any item to Echo utilizing its built in Hue Emulator. Basically it fakes being a Philips Hue Bridge. Via this route however you can only turn on/off or set things to a percentage. But if that's all you want to do, then it works fantastically. They've upgraded the Alexa support; it isn't done via Hue emulation anymore, there's a native Alexa skill. You can either set it up yourself (which is free, but requires more config/you to do an Amazon dev account/exposing your HASS instance to the internet) or pay for them to run the Alexa endpoint for you, in which case HASS autoconfigures a bunch of stuff for you and they run everything. Hue emulation still exists, I think, but is disfavored since it breaks more easily and everything looks like a light bulb.
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# ¿ Apr 10, 2018 17:57 |
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Thermopyle posted:Home Assistant also works with Google Assistant (aka, Google Homes, or Android, or the app on ios) and you can basically configure it to do anything...you don't even have to go "talk to home assistant" or whatever. This still requires some config (and exposing your instance to the cloud), though they're working on getting Google approval for a Home 'skill' or whatever that would work the same as the Alexa skill (easier config, no need to expose a port to the internet.) They're also finishing up HomeKit integration so that you can use Siri to control things, if you are on the Apple side of things. (There's an existing addon, Homebridge, that does this as well.) Basically everything will be supported within a release or two - right now it's a subset (lights, covers, climate, some sensors, maybe some other stuff.) But yeah basically HASS is good, and if you're semi-competent with computers you can make it do lots of fun tricks.
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# ¿ Apr 10, 2018 20:00 |
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Hubis posted:This reminds me that today is the last day of a big Memorial Day sale on Insteon stuff, and I'm really debating whether I want to pull the trigger on $800 worth of smart gear and replacing all my switches. It's 30% off at Smarthome.com if anyone wants to look. It includes their multi-switch bundles, too, which puts it at a really good price point compared to the Z-Wave+ stuff I was looking at. My only hesitation is (1) how good the quality/feel of the devices is, and (2) how easy it would be to integrate with HomeAssistant (I am leaning towards the USB Modem interface rather than the Insteon Hub because that allows me to do completely local-push integration, but I've read setup is a bit of a PITA there). Even at 30% off, that stuff just hits price parity with Z-Wave+ (which you can regularly find for ~30 per for switches/dimmers) and locks you into the Insteon system. Doesn't seem worth it to me.
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# ¿ May 30, 2018 18:50 |
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Hubis posted:1) I was comparing against the Homeseer switches/dimmers, which I think are more in the $40-50 range. Are there "solid" feeling devices at the $30 price point? 1) I have some of the Innovelli switches/dimmers and have been happy with them. They always go for 30/per. I haven't found any of the other zwave dimmers I have (which is basically all the major players at this point, I buy them when they go on sale) to not feel solid; the Leviton pushbutton ones are a little weird looking, but I don't think they make that style anymore anyway. I don't have any Homeseer switches to compare to, but don't see any reason they'd be any better or worse in that regard. 2) If you're running Home Assistant for your hub, why would you bother with a Zwave remote/scene controller? You have a smartphone, cheap tablets for touch interfaces, Google Homes for voice control, etc. (Or use automations, depending on what you're trying to achieve.) 3) The controller/receiver latency on zwave isn't noticeably high; my dimmers all (except one defective one I need to swap out) respond within 100ms. There's sometimes a little more delay on relay switches because some literally mechanically switch, but even there, the delay is minimal. The sole exception is with my locks, which take a couple seconds to respond, but they're battery powered so they have different constraints. If you see multi-second response times on wall-powered things like switches, you either have bad hardware or you haven't built a robust enough mesh.
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# ¿ May 30, 2018 20:01 |
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enraged_camel posted:So should I invest in individual Philips Hue bulbs, or get one smart switch to control a bunch of regular LED bulbs? Switches, because that provides visitors/you with a physical interface for whenever you don’t want to have to whip out your phone without having to buy Philips remotes and stick them on your walls (and then add a switch cover to your existing switch so it can’t be turned off and prevent you from turning the bulb on remotely.) Smart bulbs are basically a bad idea unless you have to have color, or absolutely aren’t willing to gently caress around with even a basic home automation system.
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# ¿ Jun 6, 2018 19:57 |
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ElCondemn posted:The exact fan dimmer I have is this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGVVQ and with the smartthings hub and Alexa I can tell it a percentage and it works. I think the 3 speed thing is like a preset or something, I've never used it. Pretty sure Smartthings is just mapping the percentages into ranges corresponding to the 3 speeds and setting the appropriate L/M/H speed.
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# ¿ Jun 22, 2018 20:23 |
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ElCondemn posted:My point is there is no difference in interface between the fan controller and a normal light dimmer. What it's doing under the hood isn't really an issue for me. Right, but my point was that you can just say 30%, 60%, and 100% and it’ll work fine. (I’d also suspect that low/medium/high would work but not sure.)
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# ¿ Jun 22, 2018 20:32 |
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Thermopyle posted:so now I've got a zwave USB stick on the way and I'm hoping it's not a horrible headache to get working with HA. Other than making sure you have the right ID specified for your USB stick, it’s pretty straightforward (if you’re used to HA.)
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# ¿ Jul 5, 2018 00:32 |
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I just created HomeAssistant switches for my Harmony activities and then use my Google Home to turn on/off the associated activities without needing a “ask harmony.” Could map the volume to a HA light and use brightness to control volume and on/off for mute if you want voice control of volume. I will say that the ability to voice control shuttle via things like “skip ahead 15 minutes” or “skip to 1 hour” is actually really nice in apps that support it.
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# ¿ Jul 5, 2018 17:35 |
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Thermopyle posted:Oh nice thanks for the input. My Zstick just got delivered today. Maybe I'll have time to set it up this weekend. The most reliable way to do it is to unpair every device from Smartthings and then add it to HA. Also, when you’re adding to HA you should preferably be adding using the HA Zwave control panel with the stick plugged in, not by using the button on the stick and walking around. (The latter can work but is less reliable.) That may require you to move your HA system around unless it’s ZWP devices or everything is direct hop to the stick, though.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2018 20:40 |
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Thermopyle posted:I'm not betting the farm on it, but I hope if ecobee goes tits up, they open up their local api so the open source community can keep it going. I feel like Home Assistant’s cloud model is ideal - everything meaningful is done locally, the cloud mediated component is literally just for relaying things from external services like voice assistants without forcing the user to try to be properly secure about exposing their system to the Internet.
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# ¿ Jul 12, 2018 16:51 |
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Thermopyle posted:Ok, cool. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3365193&perpage=40&pagenumber=330 (But I got an Ender 3 and for 200 bucks I’m not sure there’s a better option.)
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# ¿ Aug 22, 2018 01:16 |
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Tremors posted:Do robot vacuums do anything for dog hair tumbleweeds on hardwood floors? Either blow them around or clog, depending on how lucky you are.
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2018 21:48 |
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Rick posted:So again I'm abusing the premise of this thread by asking about something work-related but is there a smart doorbell system that can plug into a door that can be buzzed open? Doorbird IP Video Door Station appears to do what you want.
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2018 22:03 |
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# ¿ May 5, 2024 13:54 |
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Subjunctive posted:How do ceiling fans work these days? Depends on the fan, but the best option is probably a two-switch fan, leave the fan cord set to high speed (and the light turned on at the fan), and then use a z-wave light switch and a z-wave fan controller. That gives you both light and fan control at the wall and via app. (If you don't already have zwave stuff, you're looking at a controller/hub - $75ish? - plus two switches, which is probably going to be about $75 US, plus cost of the fan itself.) Also it doesn't tie you in to any particular manufacturers fan so you can pick one that isn't ugly and it gives you the widest range of compatibility in terms of hooking it into a home automation system. If you don't care about speed control you could just use a z-wave relay switch at the wall to turn the fan on and off, but that's not enough cheaper (~$10) to be worthwhile IMO. The fan+remote options are probably cheaper, but you're stuck with the remote to turn things on and off (or live with the wall switch disabling the remote, which may or may not be a big deal.)
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2018 19:27 |