|
Is there any good way to add multiple e-mail addresses to the 'notification' list for Nest? It's linked to my Google account, which is fine, but it would be really nice if my wife could get notifications as well (at least for "emergency" events like smoke/CO alarms)
|
#
¿
Feb 13, 2015 14:23
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 22:33 |
|
|
mobby_6kl posted:Is there a separate robot/roomba thread somewhere on the forums or is this the closest we've got? You said you checked and cleaned the brushes, but may have some stuff wound around the axel that is slowing/halting the rotation so make sure you check that. Otherwise it might be getting overloaded?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 3, 2015 19:58
|
|
|
Foe Hammer posted:I'm stuck on a project and need help. Ty ahead of time goons. I'm fairly certain I should be able to figure this out but between being slammed and kids I think my brain is blocked on it. "I want a security system that biometrically tracks all user access, but also the cleaning staff needs to have unlimited anonymous access"
|
|
#
¿
Mar 13, 2016 14:23
|
|
|
Random question: Are there any wired Z-Wave devices (like switches/outlets) that also do powerline networking? I have no specific need, but it seems to me like an obvious lay-up to piggyback on a powerline signal as a backhaul and use all the wired Z-wave devices as 1-hop nodes on a mesh backbone. Is it just that the functionality would be too bulky/the mesh protocol is robust enough that there wouldn't be a significant benefit? e: Homeseer is having a sale this week. Switches and dimmers are 10-12% off, among other things. ee: Does anyone have any experience with hinge pin door sensors? They seem like a great alternative to moulding-mounted sensors. Hubis fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Nov 20, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Nov 20, 2017 00:38
|
|
|
People complaining about ceiling fans: this seems like it would do the trick. You will likely have to open up your fan housing to install it, but that's the same as the "simple-RF" controllers you can buy as well.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 21, 2017 20:43
|
|
|
Looking at deploying a new system from scratch. 1) I got on this because I picked up a SmartThings adapter for my shield. Having read this thread, though, I think Home assist is really up my alley. Being cloudless is a big appeal to me (privacy, reliability, response time?) And it seems like there's a lot of room for feeling out with it, and it seems really well supported. Not being as plug-n-play isn't a problem for me as long as HA isn't buggy and annoying to even get working, and it seems like HA has a decent breadth of support. I am a profe computer plumber and am super fluent in YAML so this isn't an obstacle. Anything else I should consider between the two? I do have an existing Nest/Nest protect setup that I'd like to interface if possible. 2) I'm looking at the HomeSwwr Z-Wave+ switches. The Dimmers look like they are only $5 more than the basic switches. Is there any good reason not to just use dimmers everywhere (besides dimmer capacity and bulb compatibility)? 3) Most or my switch locations would be already wired. However, for areas I'd like to add new ones, are there good options for wireless Z-Wave wall controllers? I assume the answer is yes, I'm just a little overwhelmed with options. E: does anyone have thoughts on the Ubiquiti camera stuff? I'm looking at redoing all the wired networking in the house as well and was thinking about a Ubiquiti PoE setup. The cameras would be a cool addition (and justify me upgrading the switch). Actually, does anyone know if there's an adapter to run a Raspberry Pi over PoE? Seems like an obvious use case. Hubis fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Nov 23, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2017 16:39
|
|
|
FCKGW posted:I have a whole house fan that uses an electronic timer/coundown switch. It has settings of 1hr - 8hr. If you used one of the multi-tap compatible switches like the HomeSeer, you could set up an event so a single/double/triple up tap turns it on for 1/4/8 hours and a down-tap turns it off. That would take a bit of software setup and there's no explicit app support, but it would do what you are looking for I think
|
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2017 17:27
|
|
|
CopperHound posted:I can't remember the details from when I looked into them, but I seem to recall seeing that they use a proprietary PoE implementation and are not ONVIF compliant. Seemed like vendor lock to me so I ran away. Frohike999 posted:We use these at work and I'm really happy with them. You're right, the PoE isn't standard, so they won't work with another brand PoE switch, but you can either buy the Ubiquiti PoE switch or use the PoE adapters for each camera. We ended up using the Ubiquiti switch, which supports both the PoE standard and PoE+ that the cameras use, so if you plan on mixing other devices they would work with the switch. wolrah posted:At this point even Ubiquiti recommends using the 802.3af adapters with their non-standard hardware anyways. They are not going to be supporting passive PoE on future products in the UniFi line. Yeah I believe this was the case with the previous generation, but their new products are all 802.3af standard.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2017 19:22
|
|
|
LastInLine posted:First of all, yes, you should have renamed all your lights in the Hue app. Those names should be reflected in the Home app. Pick unique, easy names to say and it makes things way easier as you add bulbs. Well, not practically, right? You will get increased latency as you increase in depth, and as I understand it there is a maximum mesh depth (hops away from the hub) of like 15. Still, it should be fine so long as the hub is centrally located.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 28, 2017 13:38
|
|
|
Drape Culture posted:My house was built in the 60s and has a nifty system of low voltage switches that control the 120V relays for the overhead lights in each room. Consequently, I only have ~10V available at a wall switch and I can't use any sort of an off the shelf smart switch to control them. Your Arduino should only need 5VDC to run, so if you have 10V(AC?) and are already doing your own electronics you COULD do some kind of power conversion. Alternatively, you could use an Arduino zigbee shield instead of wifi, which would have far lower power consumption.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 1, 2018 15:37
|
|
|
Drape Culture posted:That's a good point, I'm probably over thinking the "avoid cloud services" mantra. My fear is Random Company X turning off their cloud services because it's unprofitable, which seems fairly unlikely with Alexa, but who knows. I'll shelf that criteria for now. For me it's less about Random Company X turning off their cloud services and more my light switches not working because Verizon decided to do a hardware update, or several hundred/thousand ms latency even when the network is up (and, of course, exposed attack surface area).
|
|
#
¿
Jan 2, 2018 17:48
|
|
|
Subjunctive posted:What switches are you using that don’t operate locally? My Z-wave ones still control the lights even when the hub is turned off, let alone when the network is down. None! But I am putting together a system for my house now and am wary of it, and it does seem to be an issue if you're not careful. From what I was reading, Using the multi-tap triggers for HomeSeer switches with SmartThings involves using a Custom Controller, meaning that it stops being local. Apparently this might explain some of the widely varying experiences people have been having with them. For my own purposes I'm doing a Home Assistant system, but am debating between the HomeSeer (multi-tap can be used as a scene control, adds to the Z-Wave mesh, good LED compatibility) and Caseta (supposedly very robust/responsive, proprietary network which is no big deal but doesn't help overall mesh for Z-wave devices, no native scene control options, complexity of the bridge interface+plugin vs all Z-wave protocols, supposedly very picky with LEDs). I ordered one of the HomeSeer dimmers to give it a test drive.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 4, 2018 17:59
|
|
|
Subjunctive posted:I don't use the multi-tap at this point (mostly I use Echo), but I've been happy with my Homeseer switches and dimmers, including one 4-way setup. I went down the rabbit hole today doing my due diligance and found out Insteon has (a) a serial "modem" that lets you address the devices directly without the hub and (b) this allows you to use a full "local push" model for HomeAssistant (as opposed to polling through the hub, which you do with the Caseta). I'm going to keep that in mind, since I am also starting to think the multi-tap functionality won't be as useful as I first envisioned, and Insteon has a bunch of great keypad modules (as well as fun stuff like fan controllers). People have complained that the HA component doesn't have as much support as OpenHAB, but it seems pretty robust to me... TL:DR: trying really hard not to invest $500 in switches only to realize I hate them, so wish me luck!
|
|
#
¿
Jan 4, 2018 23:07
|
|
|
n.. posted:Hmm I've never heard of any of these, are there any reasons to use them over Home Assistant? FHEM looks like a dumpster fire. Openhab looks much nicer but makes me think it's probably not as a flexible as HA? My understanding is that HomeAssistant is generally a new-and-improved Openhab, but having been around much longer Openhab has deeper support for some equipement. For example, Insteon Powerline Modem Interface.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 26, 2018 21:53
|
|
|
I dunno, I wouldn't call it "peak laziness" -- it's somewhere on a broad laziness spectrum. Some rooms have a lot of individual shades that would be annoying to adjust. My living room has really wide (>80") rollers that have a gear ratio that makes them either slow to open/close or require an annoying amount of force. Being able to push a button and say "start opening all of them to save you 45s" is probably way less lazy than something that lets you press a button to avoid walking 10' to the light switch.
Hubis fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Mar 12, 2018 |
|
#
¿
Mar 12, 2018 17:06
|
|
|
Subjunctive posted:What about smart vents? I’m wondering if they could help me fake multi-zone, and if they might work with the Nest. My only semi-informed $0.02: I'm personally down on them as everything I've read (and supported by a personal friend who is also a HVAC guy) is that the register airflow should be fairly specifically balanced in your system and you can really start to cause problems (reduced efficiency, increased noise, system wear) by closing things off capriciously. It's probably not a big deal if you just have one or two problem rooms that are a small portion of your total system, but it's a bad idea to use on your entire system. They do make things like shunts that will open between the supply and return if you have the system damped, and you can tie all of them together but now you are talking about an actual HVAC system change rather than just a magic Gizmo you can slap on the wall. So they are probably ok if you just want to use them sparingly, but there's a reason HVAC systems aren't built that way. Motorized dampers have existed for a long time.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 17, 2018 05:45
|
|
|
Subjunctive posted:Thanks, that’s really helpful. I’m thinking of one problem room in particular, but maybe I should talk to an HVAC person to see what my other options are. I think that is a use case where they'd make sense (especially if combined with a thermostat with secondary sensors). Our house has bedrooms at one end that aren't super well insulated/are at the end of the HVAC line, so leaving them out of the system during the day when we aren't in that end of the house would be nice. I'm just using ecobee sensors to adjust the thermostat "focus". One thing to remember is that with forced air systems you've got air return vents pulling (which you DON'T want to block because you need to ensure the air handler has sufficient flow to avoid wear and nasty things like the heat exchanger freezing up) so if you shut off the input into a room you are creating a slight negative pressure there pulling air in from other places instead and still circulating that air through the rest of the house. So yeah, maybe a good fit as a bandaid for a very isolated problem, but probably worth talking to a (good) HVAC specialist. Their solution, while more correct in the long term, may likely be much more costly though.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 17, 2018 14:59
|
|
|
ickna posted:Has anyone tried both OpenHAB and HASS that could speak to the differences? I’ve been purely OpenHAB for the last year and with three different deployments I’m pretty comfortable with it, but I am curious about how well a purely python solution works for this kind of thing. Well OpenHAB is JavaScript, so it's not like it's got any advantage over Python there. Personally Python is a selling point for me just because I'm very comfortable with the language if I want/need to do some hacking around, but it shouldn't be a factor from an end user perspective.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2018 14:26
|
|
|
BonoMan posted:Hopefully this is the best place to ask. A smart switch system like Caseta or Insteon might be a more affordable alternative to hue lights (depending on the number of lights / switches). Smarthome.com has some multi-packs you could look at for budgeting. They also have some combo packs for switches with Google Home/Home Mini devices
|
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2018 17:52
|
|
|
Thermopyle posted:I use GPSLogger set to passive for HA presence detection. It's free and accurate. I've been using the Ubiquiti Unifi plug-in to do presence detection based on whether the cell-phone is connected to the wifi. It's a limited use-case, but it's pretty rock solid.
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2018 20:52
|
|
|
Thermopyle posted:Yeah, as long as its the type with a canopy against the ceiling that has room for the controller part to fit inside. Or at least that's the idea I think...like I said I don't have one, but that's what I've read on the smartthings forums. You turn the fan speed chain to high and the light on and then remove the chains so people aren't pulling them. Then all the control is done from the remote or whatever zwave control you got going on. You can also mount them in the housing below (and may have to if you want to control the lights as well)
|
|
#
¿
May 12, 2018 13:02
|
|
|
Thermopyle posted:Well, it's not the downrod thats important, it's the canopy right against the ceiling. Many ceiling fans can be installed with or without the shaft but keep the canopy part. Mine was probably an edge case, but I was replacing a set of very old Casablanca controllers that communicated over the power supply line. The receiver (?) Was in the cowling, and controlled both the light and fan motor. So it was Hot + Neutral into the controller in the housing, then a little circuit board there with some relays going to Light+N and Fan+N. E: these! https://community.smartthings.com/t/casablanca-inteli-touch-switch-w-11/13062 Hubis fucked around with this message at 19:15 on May 12, 2018 |
|
#
¿
May 12, 2018 19:11
|
|
|
wolrah posted:Agreed, WDS repeaters are bad. They work by switching one radio back and forth as it forwards packets along, so best case your bandwidth gets halved with every hop and in the real world it's worse. Eh, it's only "bad" if you need the throughput. You are trading peak performance for convenience, and I'd wager most consumers probably wouldn't notice. I wouldn't use one, but there are certainly use cases where they are a perfectly fine solution. That said, I agree with all the rest of this, and hooking up nest cams is probably exactly the type of case you'd want to avoid then for because they are already going to load your network.
|
|
#
¿
May 17, 2018 14:38
|
|
|
Thermopyle posted:I see. This reminds me that today is the last day of a big Memorial Day sale on Insteon stuff, and I'm really debating whether I want to pull the trigger on $800 worth of smart gear and replacing all my switches. It's 30% off at Smarthome.com if anyone wants to look. It includes their multi-switch bundles, too, which puts it at a really good price point compared to the Z-Wave+ stuff I was looking at. My only hesitation is (1) how good the quality/feel of the devices is, and (2) how easy it would be to integrate with HomeAssistant (I am leaning towards the USB Modem interface rather than the Insteon Hub because that allows me to do completely local-push integration, but I've read setup is a bit of a PITA there).
|
|
#
¿
May 30, 2018 18:13
|
|
|
Kalman posted:Even at 30% off, that stuff just hits price parity with Z-Wave+ (which you can regularly find for ~30 per for switches/dimmers) and locks you into the Insteon system. Doesn't seem worth it to me. 1) I was comparing against the Homeseer switches/dimmers, which I think are more in the $40-50 range. Are there "solid" feeling devices at the $30 price point? 2) I've hard a hard time finding Z-wave remotes/scene controllers that aren't prohibitively expensive and/or look janky or "stylish" rather than, you know, like something that just blends into the decor (suggestions welcome) 3) Insteon has the whole "Hail protocol" thing going for it which allows for extremely low controller/receiver latency. I have heard very mixed things (up to a few seconds) for peoples various Z-Wave setups All that said I'd love to use more affordable, more open hardware and build a robust Z-Wave+ mesh as I go, and the lock-in is basically what's prevented me from pulling the trigger so far. If I am off-base about any of the above points I'd be more than happy to change my mind.
|
|
#
¿
May 30, 2018 19:37
|
|
|
Kalman posted:1) I have some of the Innovelli switches/dimmers and have been happy with them. They always go for 30/per. I haven't found any of the other zwave dimmers I have (which is basically all the major players at this point, I buy them when they go on sale) to not feel solid; the Leviton pushbutton ones are a little weird looking, but I don't think they make that style anymore anyway. I don't have any Homeseer switches to compare to, but don't see any reason they'd be any better or worse in that regard. 1) The innovelli stuff seems good, thanks -- I'll give them a look. 2) I've got a kind of personal aesthetic rule of not *relying* app/voice usage -- it should be a perk, not a requirement. Basically, a stranger should be able to walk into the house and be able to access all the functionality without an instruction guide. 3) Yeah, I think I am overly cautions here (same as for 2 really) due to the "wife factor" -- I need to make sure I minimize the ways it might be noticeably worse (or just "objectionably different"). I've seen a fair amount of horror stories online of people with huge delays, but I suspect there's a lot of variability here due to whether people are using local vs cloud control, mesh robustness, etc. Anyways, thanks for the feedback -- gives me some food for thought. Hubis fucked around with this message at 17:53 on May 31, 2018 |
|
#
¿
May 31, 2018 17:40
|
|
|
enraged_camel posted:Is there a way to find out without unscrewing each and every switch and looking at the wiring? Nope!
|
|
#
¿
Jun 6, 2018 21:03
|
|
|
enraged_camel posted:Anyone here have an HVAC system with zone-control? I'm wondering how they play with thermostats such as Ecobee or Nest. They don't, as far as I am aware.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 12, 2018 19:25
|
|
|
My own personal vision of hell:
|
|
#
¿
Jun 22, 2018 02:45
|
|
|
Tapedump posted:My home keeps the peace by having a physical switch, even if just a wireless one, mounted on the wall like the batteried Hue one, at every point we were used to the old rockers. Thermopyle posted:It boggles the mind that this isn't what everyone would do. Yeah, I guess that was what I was getting at. Hubis fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Jun 23, 2018 |
|
#
¿
Jun 23, 2018 15:29
|
|
|
LastInLine posted:Honestly if we just had Minis we probably wouldn't use them for music but the full sized Homes sound good enough to fill a small room or play podcasts. This is actually really useful info, thanks Hubis fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Jul 4, 2018 |
|
#
¿
Jul 4, 2018 11:42
|
|
|
Looking at installing some security cameras around my L-shaped 1-story home. Does anyone know of any resources for planning layout/coverage? I am probably going to go with the Ubiquiti PoE cameras (I was thinking of putting all the cameras + NVR on a dedicated sub-switch to provide power/centralize traffic). e: Woah, cool -- I hadn't seen this https://www.home-assistant.io/blog/2018/04/12/ubiquiti-and-home-assistant/ quote:TL;DR: Ubiquiti Networks has hired Paulus Schoutsen, the founder of Home Assistant, to support Home Assistant’s goals of making Home Assistant easier to configure for users, improving the integration with device makers and making it easier to create, maintain and evolve integrations. Hubis fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Jul 16, 2018 |
|
#
¿
Jul 16, 2018 17:11
|
|
|
Exactly what I was hoping for, thanks
|
|
#
¿
Jul 16, 2018 17:22
|
|
|
Subjunctive posted:I have a weird situation. I have a set of hard wired cabinet lights on a Homeseer Z-wave switch. When I press the switch I hear the relay thunk, and the power on/off light switches appropriately, but the lights stay on. Poking it via Z-wave does the same thing. short across the relay?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 16, 2018 23:09
|
|
|
Zero VGS posted:A decade ago I used my laptop near a window to grab the free public Wi-Fi signal so my roommates could plug into my laptop and take their PS3 online. But while I was gone the PS3 automatically took all my homegrown porn and put it into the PS3 video gallery, I came back to my roommates traumatized The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Inspect Your Gadgets > Home Automation and Security: OK Google, Show Everyone My Dick
|
|
#
¿
Aug 5, 2018 01:54
|
|
|
Man, Home Assistant is pretty impressive, but they seriously need a stable/development channel split. Just had to deal with a series of bugs related to hassio crapping itself if there was a password set which was fixed within 48 hours, but should have never made it into "production" release. Also their strategy around naming entities (specifically generating entities from z-wave devices) is really wonky...
|
|
#
¿
Aug 14, 2018 03:40
|
|
|
HOAs should be illegal.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 25, 2018 14:46
|
|
|
Endless Mike posted:They’re run by Nazis. Wha- quote:https://digboston.com/macro-aggressions-trump-flags-right-wing-memes-line-walls-at-boston-company-workers-be-damned/  E: quote:According to a United SimpliSafe spokesperson, supervisors at the call center are majority white and treat their subordinates of color with dismissive and abusive language. In one instance, a white supervisor allegedly said to a majority black and Latin team, “I’m like a slavemaster and you’re my slaves.” When this incident was related to the company’s human resources department, United SimpliSafe said, it was chalked up to a misunderstanding and no discipline was administered to the offending party. 
Hubis fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Dec 26, 2018 |
|
#
¿
Dec 26, 2018 15:39
|
|
|
Heners_UK posted:You have a doorbell for your bed? Whatever rings your bell I suppose Si Non Oscillas, Noli Tintinnare
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2019 13:21
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 22:33 |
|
|
Discussion Quorum posted:Trip report: What's wrong with the Ecobee for using a remote sensor? You can turn off the "follow me" behavior and then it should act just like a fixed remote. As for scene controls, I'm on the same page as you. I was eying the Insteon proprietary switches, which have the downside of a proprietary protocol and so requiring a hub to connect to a smart system, but the upside of affordable scene controllers (as well as a seemingly cool system that uses PowerLine Communication as a backhaul to improve reliability). Overall the breadth of products in the Insteon line is pretty good, but you do pay a little bit of a premium for them. HomeAssistant does have a "Local Push" platform for the Insteon hub, though, so it can operate with the same "purely local" requirement as you could do with Z-Wave if you so desired. In the end, though, I settled on using Z-Wave switches, and using the mult-tap scene control supported by the HomeSeer switches. At least I planned to -- I haven't set it up yet. Voice control has proven to be juuust convenient enough that I haven't felt the motivation to modify the Z-Wave Config XML and figure out how the scene switch is exposed in HA just yet. Aeotech also has a Z-Wave scene controller that's pretty affordable: https://aeotec.com/z-wave-wireless-switch I just wish it didn't have that "CES Showfloor" design aesthetic -- I just want something to disappear into my house, not look like I glued an iPod to my wall. e: looks like they have a basic looking in-wall controller https://aeotec.com/z-wave-wall-switch and a remote https://aeotec.com/small-z-wave-remote-control but they aren't available yer? Hubis fucked around with this message at 13:54 on Jan 11, 2019 |
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2019 13:37
|
|
