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I need some advice please diy painters! I have a camper project that needs paint. It's builders white with welded sections in a completely different white so yeah needs something doing. The problem is that it's massive and I want something cheap to ride me over till I sell it and bud another :/ I have looked at the $50 paint job but that's a lot of sanding on a long wheelbase hightop van. I am thinking 3 coats with no sanding... Is that going to look poo poo? I don't want super shiny but I don't want to look like a gypsy with army green matt. So what's the best solution?
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Jul 13, 2014 10:39
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Do you have a compressor?
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Jul 13, 2014 10:49
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InitialDave posted:Do you have a compressor? I can borrow one from a mate. It's a big semi pro one. Nowhere to paint though. It will be an in drive job. Personally I would go matt black but the mrs would kill me and refuse to ride in it!
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Jul 13, 2014 12:31
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CatBus posted:... I had friends volunteer to help me get some work done on my TR6 project while I was on vacation for a week a couple years ago. When I returned I found out that this meant they had taken the entire dashboard apart, put all the bits in a plastic tub with nothing labelled, and though they said pictures had been taken along the way, I've never seen any. They scattered like roaches when I used words like "rust removal" and brought out wire brushes and sand paper. Work on your own projects, or if people want to help, micromanage the gently caress out of them.
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Jul 13, 2014 14:18
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thegasman2000 posted:I need some advice please diy painters! I have a camper project that needs paint. It's builders white with welded sections in a completely different white so yeah needs something doing. The problem is that it's massive and I want something cheap to ride me over till I sell it and bud another :/ Painting is fast and easy. Prep is what makes paint look good and takes a lot of time. So, yes.....3 coats with no sanding or prep will look like poo poo. Proper prep and 3 coats of single stage would look just fine if you apply it properly.
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Jul 13, 2014 17:49
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Speaking of, what are you guys using for power sanding? I can't possibly imagine that you hand sand an entire car like I do for individual panels. Is an off the shelf cordless random orbital sander enough?
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Jul 13, 2014 17:53
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thegasman2000 posted:I can borrow one from a mate. It's a big semi pro one. Nowhere to paint though. It will be an in drive job. Personally I would go matt black but the mrs would kill me and refuse to ride in it!
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Jul 13, 2014 18:00
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Speaking of, what are you guys using for power sanding? I can't possibly imagine that you hand sand an entire car like I do for individual panels. Depends on what kind of sanding, but in general: air tools. I have a couple sizes of longboard sanders and a D/A. I can't imagine you'd get very far very fast with a random orbital. They are different names for the same thing, but when it's called a D/A it's a clue that it is made for bodywork/metalwork and when it's called a random orbital it's made for woodworking or paint polishing. I can't imagine using Porter Cable electric for anything more strenuous than cutting/buffing.
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Jul 13, 2014 18:01
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Is that comic sans?
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Jul 13, 2014 18:12
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Motronic posted:Painting is fast and easy. Prep is what makes paint look good and takes a lot of time. I just don't want it to stand out as poo poo. So would say sanding it all back and a single stage paint on a driveway work well enough. It's that or a roller paint job. It's not worth the time and money making it look good.
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Jul 13, 2014 18:19
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thegasman2000 posted:I just don't want it to stand out as poo poo. So would say sanding it all back and a single stage paint on a driveway work well enough. It's that or a roller paint job. It's not worth the time and money making it look good. If you are looking for "good enough" just make sure you do sufficient surface prep. No jagged edges between layers of paint and bodywork, etc. Then shoot it with a high build primer to hide all the poo poo you missed. A second coat of high build primer wouldn't be a bad idea. Then shoot it with color. Roller paint jobs are labor intensive bullshit (you need to sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand) for people who have convinced themselves that they are saving money over using a spray gun and compressor and that count their time as valueless as well as consumables (sandpaper - it gets expensive). Or just people who are afraid of spraying and don't realize you can get a totally acceptable coat down in an open driveway - and an even better one with a cheap rear end pop up car park tent from WalMart.
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Jul 13, 2014 21:27
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About 2 years ago I painted my truck. I used all Summit Racing brand paints. I had bought a used steel cowl hood from a guy when I bought the truck, to replace the damaged factory hood, the guy had been running it in the original black coating, which I cleaned and used a wax remover on. Now, two years later, the paint and primer are cracking and flaking off. I did not sand the hood since it was in the original unpainted finish. Is that where I went wrong?
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Jul 13, 2014 23:00
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Rubiks Pubes posted:About 2 years ago I painted my truck. I used all Summit Racing brand paints. I had bought a used steel cowl hood from a guy when I bought the truck, to replace the damaged factory hood, the guy had been running it in the original black coating, which I cleaned and used a wax remover on. Now, two years later, the paint and primer are cracking and flaking off. I did not sand the hood since it was in the original unpainted finish. Is that where I went wrong? You went wrong somewhere on surface prep or mid-coat. It's hard to say without having seen it before you painted. But successfully painting a filthy matte finish is gonna take some serious sanding and a good primer.
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Jul 13, 2014 23:26
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Motronic posted:No jagged edges between layers of paint and bodywork, etc. This and the poster who posted about any single possible imperfection showing up insanely worse once you throw the paint on are completely right. Stuff I felt with my hand and thought was smooth was not and it showed up in the paint and ask me about wasting 20 odd hours trying to get a ghetto acceptable paint job right and still bodging that completely. Looks alright from 15 feet though. I'll be re-sanding everything down and trying a roll on job next. If I learned some lessons from trying my first cheapo paint job they would be the following: 1.) Dust is an absolute bitch, get some tarps/plastic/etc. and loving close that poo poo off. Spending all that time cleaning the entire car with mineral spirits and a pile of terry cloths does not loving matter if there's even a little bit of dust floating around. 2.) You will never figure out the right distance to spray with a rattle can and it will never come out evenly or consistently because it's not regulated at all and poo poo and paint will fly out however fast it feels like. Too far? Speckle city. Too close? Blobs everywhere. Just right? poo poo doesn't exist. 3.) You can never sand enough and no that isn't smooth enough sand it some more. 4.) Bondo loving rocks for filling low spots/dents and can be painted super well A+++ would buy again. 5.) Soldering irons are fantastic for repairing bumpers (especially attachment loops) just don't breathe that poo poo in. 6.) Mask glass to protect from sanding, then sand, then once it's all sanded and cleaned, mask everything important for painting. I somehow realize that all this poo poo is common sense and despite reading this thread and so many guides managed to still forget so much. 
puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Jul 14, 2014 |
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Jul 14, 2014 01:35
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So I got given some paint... My mate said his compressor was broken so rolled it on. One more coat and it's a good 15ft paint coat. http://i.imgur.com/NZzmSbz.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ED5DDUd.jpg http://i.imgur.com/aRf8WDP.jpg
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Jul 18, 2014 16:03
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So if you change the color of a car I assume you need to call the DMV so they can change it on your registration?
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Jul 18, 2014 16:07
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revmoo posted:So if you change the color of a car I assume you need to call the DMV so they can change it on your registration? Yeah here in the uk we send off the log book (v5) telling them it's new colour and it's returned all done. I am joint to wait a bit as I am also registering it as a camper ASAP, needs a bed and cooker in first, for cheaper insurances 
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Jul 18, 2014 16:09
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thegasman2000 posted:So I got given some paint... My mate said his compressor was broken so rolled it on. One more coat and it's a good 15ft paint coat. The back will never be anything more than a 100 yard job. All it would have taken is an hour or so to do something with that.
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Jul 18, 2014 16:18
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Motronic posted:The back will never be anything more than a 100 yard job. All it would have taken is an hour or so to do something with that. If the paint is thick enough could he wet sand 1500 grit and then hit it with something like meguiar's ultimate to get rid of the orange peel? Basing that on https://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html, I'm also painting a car in white and planning on following this to a tee. puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Jul 18, 2014 |
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Jul 18, 2014 21:56
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I'd like to re-paint the Midget at some point. I was considering the $50 paint job but it looks like a pain in the cock with so much sanding. I suppose even though it's a small car, it'll still be pretty expensive to have it painted professionally, right? I just found a huge free air compressor on Craigslist, looks like the owner is moving and can't haul the fucker out of his garage or something. So that could make a proper paint job much easier. Motronic, I like the Walmart carport thing you mentioned. Is http://www.walmart.com/ip/ShelterLogic-White-Enclosed-Canopy-Kit-with-Windows/20415819 the sort of thing you had in mind? That might fit in my driveway... Any other recommendations for painting a tiny roadster? Something like 7/10 would be nice... from what I'm reading here, that means either hire a pro or bite the bullet and use proper spray tools?
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Dec 8, 2014 22:12
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This one looks better: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Caravan-Canopy-Domain-Carport-Garage-Sidewall-Enclosure-Kit/11007578
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Dec 8, 2014 22:32
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Those look handy, but both listings also look like they are just for the sides, not the actual carport. Double check the descriptions. I think for my truck once the more pressing issues are dealt with I'm going to just redo the thing with duplicolor deep blue. Not in a rattle can of course since I have a nice compressor and decent paint gun already.
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Dec 9, 2014 03:01
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Extra posted:If the paint is thick enough could he wet sand 1500 grit and then hit it with something like meguiar's ultimate to get rid of the orange peel? This page is making me think dangerous thoughts.
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Dec 9, 2014 04:05
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Pham Nuwen posted:I'd like to re-paint the Midget at some point. I was considering the $50 paint job but it looks like a pain in the cock with so much sanding. I suppose even though it's a small car, it'll still be pretty expensive to have it painted professionally, right? 95% of the finish appears to come from prep and sanding. Either do it yourself or pay someone else, but a decent job needs work.
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Dec 9, 2014 21:04
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Cakefool posted:95% of the finish appears to come from prep and sanding. Either do it yourself or pay someone else, but a decent job needs work. 95% of a regular paint job is still prep and sanding. That paint seems to be standing up well. http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint-3years.html
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Dec 10, 2014 01:21
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Powershift posted:95% of a regular paint job is still prep and sanding. And to go a bit farther: http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint-4years.html Looks like it still has some shine to it.
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Dec 10, 2014 04:35
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Powershift posted:95% of a regular paint job is still prep and sanding. Sorry, that's what I meant, 95% of any paint job is prep. And that looks good for 4 years with no special treatment.
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Dec 10, 2014 14:55
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Are there any of those canopy storage sheds that are of decent quality and not $300+? That would kinda be blowing out my budget by a good bit.
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Dec 10, 2014 17:03
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Anyone have any experience with marine topside paint on a car? They advertise UV protection, durability, and good gloss... I'm thinking that could be a possibility for a roll-on paint job.
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Feb 8, 2015 23:12
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Pham Nuwen posted:Anyone have any experience with marine topside paint on a car? They advertise UV protection, durability, and good gloss... I'm thinking that could be a possibility for a roll-on paint job. Now that I think about it, we used to use a roller to repaint the topside accent colors on boats (when the gelcoat would fake and chalk)... Do they still make Imron? That stuff was awesome.
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Feb 9, 2015 15:02
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Well since the jackass I showed the Civic to had no cash I guess I will be giving the roll on job a try. I have the paint, what type of primer should I get?
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Feb 9, 2015 23:28
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Rhyno posted:Well since the jackass I showed the Civic to had no cash I guess I will be giving the roll on job a try. I have the paint, what type of primer should I get? One of the guys on the MG forum had good results with rattlecan primer. Please take copious pictures, I intend to do a roll-on job pretty soon.
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Feb 10, 2015 00:25
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Pham Nuwen posted:One of the guys on the MG forum had good results with rattlecan primer. Sweet, rattlecan primer is cheap! I think all I need for prep is some more tape and some scotch pads to rough up the surface.
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Feb 10, 2015 00:33
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So my buddy rattlecanned his Miata, and after several iterations of miserable sanding and painting he's given up on it. The surface of the car is really rough and unpleasant to the touch. It's almost grabby. Would something like a dual action polisher help knock that down so it feels more like car paint should?
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Feb 10, 2015 00:34
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Seat Safety Switch posted:So my buddy rattlecanned his Miata, and after several iterations of miserable sanding and painting he's given up on it. The surface of the car is really rough and unpleasant to the touch. It's almost grabby. Depends on how much paint is on there. Rattle cans go on really light. Wet sand/cut/buff would be the way to make it right but he very well may not have enough material on there to do that without blowing through.
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Feb 10, 2015 00:37
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jhcain posted:Now that I think about it, we used to use a roller to repaint the topside accent colors on boats (when the gelcoat would fake and chalk)... Do they still make Imron? That stuff was awesome. I don't know about Imron but I've read that roll-on boat paint (like Interlux Brightside) is a popular product on a lot of the low-cost car paint forums.
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Feb 10, 2015 02:06
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Motronic posted:Depends on how much paint is on there. Rattle cans go on really light. When I did a rattle can job on my motorcycle I went through this. I ended up having to do rattle can for the colour and a two stage clear coat. After that and assloads of wet sanding and polishing everything was gravy.
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Feb 10, 2015 02:07
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That's pretty much how it went on my motorcycle. Piles of basically dust coats, color and clear. I did color until fully covered and then as many clear coats as I had time in the day to do. Used acrylic enamel rattle cans (Rustoleum). Looks like garbage before sanding:  Polishes up pretty well after wet sand 800-1500 grit, buff, and polish.  Sanding, buffing, and polishing took hours though. Just for those two pieces. It's labor intensive.
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Feb 11, 2015 00:45
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clutchpuck posted:That's pretty much how it went on my motorcycle. Piles of basically dust coats, color and clear. I did color until fully covered and then as many clear coats as I had time in the day to do. Used acrylic enamel rattle cans (Rustoleum). Mine took forever, mostly because I used an acrylic clear and then destroyed it with gas my first run. The two stage SprayMax rattle can clear is awesome and shined up wonderfully. 
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Feb 11, 2015 07:23
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| # ? Apr 29, 2024 16:15 |
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 I got sick of just endlessly sanding, the hood was pretty much ready to go, so I said gently caress it and started rolling it on:  This picture makes it look better than it is, but the color is starting to show.
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Apr 12, 2015 02:31
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