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skipdogg posted:Do you have a garage or other enclosed area you can use to paint in? A DIY paint booth made with PVC sheeting isn't that expensive and will keep most contaminants out if you do the prep work. If you have a sprayer and can get automotive paint you could probably do a pretty decent job yourself. Yep. That's the way to go.  A painters tarp was put on the ground before this was used for paint, and the garage door was slightly open with several furnace filters stacked up as an "output". The input was an old furnace (running on fan only) with several furnace filters on it's intake to insure clean air. I also made a diffuser......don't laugh, it worked:  This was my first time spraying metallic, and it's hard. Not impossible to learn, but definitely not something to start out with.  (you can see the exhaust filters a bit in that shot) The one thing to keep in mind if you build your own paint booth is that the quality of your job is pretty much directly proportional to how much light you have. The sections where I had insufficient light turned out markedly worse than the rest and required a lot more cutting. In the end, it turned out just fine and is still looking good 6 years later. The car is garaged, but I drive it all year.  Edit: The paint I used was EXPENSIVE. But I don't paint with cheap paints anymore after painting with good stuff - there is simply no comparison to how it sprays and lasts compared to cheap paints. This was all DuPont Chroma system stuff, with a garnet red metallic base (red pigments are expensive) and 3 clear coats. There's about $600 in paint on that car. Motronic fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Jul 1, 2014 |
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Jul 1, 2014 21:26
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 00:36 |
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If you can get it to lay down well there's no reason not to go for it. Under $200 is a great deal.
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Jul 1, 2014 21:48
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Armchair Calvinist posted:How much would it cost after prep, hazmat suits, tools, and materials (basically everything) to do a two stage paint job on a car and have it look good? Skill has a whole lot to do with it. But.........do have have a garage? A paint booth? A compressor? A pain gun? You're leaving out a lot of expensive variables.
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Jul 9, 2014 02:17
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thegasman2000 posted:I need some advice please diy painters! I have a camper project that needs paint. It's builders white with welded sections in a completely different white so yeah needs something doing. The problem is that it's massive and I want something cheap to ride me over till I sell it and bud another :/ Painting is fast and easy. Prep is what makes paint look good and takes a lot of time. So, yes.....3 coats with no sanding or prep will look like poo poo. Proper prep and 3 coats of single stage would look just fine if you apply it properly.
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Jul 13, 2014 17:49
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Speaking of, what are you guys using for power sanding? I can't possibly imagine that you hand sand an entire car like I do for individual panels. Depends on what kind of sanding, but in general: air tools. I have a couple sizes of longboard sanders and a D/A. I can't imagine you'd get very far very fast with a random orbital. They are different names for the same thing, but when it's called a D/A it's a clue that it is made for bodywork/metalwork and when it's called a random orbital it's made for woodworking or paint polishing. I can't imagine using Porter Cable electric for anything more strenuous than cutting/buffing.
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Jul 13, 2014 18:01
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thegasman2000 posted:I just don't want it to stand out as poo poo. So would say sanding it all back and a single stage paint on a driveway work well enough. It's that or a roller paint job. It's not worth the time and money making it look good. If you are looking for "good enough" just make sure you do sufficient surface prep. No jagged edges between layers of paint and bodywork, etc. Then shoot it with a high build primer to hide all the poo poo you missed. A second coat of high build primer wouldn't be a bad idea. Then shoot it with color. Roller paint jobs are labor intensive bullshit (you need to sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand) for people who have convinced themselves that they are saving money over using a spray gun and compressor and that count their time as valueless as well as consumables (sandpaper - it gets expensive). Or just people who are afraid of spraying and don't realize you can get a totally acceptable coat down in an open driveway - and an even better one with a cheap rear end pop up car park tent from WalMart.
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Jul 13, 2014 21:27
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Rubiks Pubes posted:About 2 years ago I painted my truck. I used all Summit Racing brand paints. I had bought a used steel cowl hood from a guy when I bought the truck, to replace the damaged factory hood, the guy had been running it in the original black coating, which I cleaned and used a wax remover on. Now, two years later, the paint and primer are cracking and flaking off. I did not sand the hood since it was in the original unpainted finish. Is that where I went wrong? You went wrong somewhere on surface prep or mid-coat. It's hard to say without having seen it before you painted. But successfully painting a filthy matte finish is gonna take some serious sanding and a good primer.
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Jul 13, 2014 23:26
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thegasman2000 posted:So I got given some paint... My mate said his compressor was broken so rolled it on. One more coat and it's a good 15ft paint coat. The back will never be anything more than a 100 yard job. All it would have taken is an hour or so to do something with that.
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Jul 18, 2014 16:18
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Seat Safety Switch posted:So my buddy rattlecanned his Miata, and after several iterations of miserable sanding and painting he's given up on it. The surface of the car is really rough and unpleasant to the touch. It's almost grabby. Depends on how much paint is on there. Rattle cans go on really light. Wet sand/cut/buff would be the way to make it right but he very well may not have enough material on there to do that without blowing through.
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Feb 10, 2015 00:37
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 00:36 |
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Parts Kit posted:Another thing for me to consider since the carpets in my truck are long past hosed. Ever have any issues with the cab floor getting too hot for comfort? Depends on the vehicle. I've been fine on some and others can get uncomfortably hot, especially when you have a cat close to the sheet metal. My old 944 track car was kinda toasty on the passenger side floor. Enough that plastic bags would melt into it.
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Jun 27, 2015 20:21
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