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Powershift posted:Basically, anybody has it in them to do a 8/10 job in their garage. It's just a matter of spending a fuckton of time on the inital prep work, and being able to sand off fairly expensive paint if something goes wrong. If your hooptie is really terrible and you'd be fine with a 3/10 job, a week of sanding and a couple wet coats of single stage urethane would get you going pretty quick. If you check eastwood's website, you can get some pretty sick colors in single stage too. You'll also find all the guides you need to do an ok job. That sums it up perfectly. I also thought I was going to be smart and not do a roll-on paint job, I was going to buy affordable spray stuff and do it myself. Unless you have done this before, I advise against it because in the end I spent more than if I would have just gone to a body shop, and the quality is about a 7/10. I used Summit Racing paints since they were cheaper than anything else I could find, and you can get it online. It adds up after you factor in all the epoxy primer, 2k primer, reducers, activators, clear, etc. 'Etc' here includes paint booth materials, HVLP guns, renting a wheelbarrow compressor so I can get decent CFM, new air fittings that aren't harbor freight, respirator, paint suit, masking materials, sanding blocks, sandpaper, tack cloths, body filler, polishes. Almost all these expenses are just because I wanted to spray on paint.  Oh good it is metallic, that won't be hard for a newbie to spray correctly. I spent a few months of nights and weekends getting the bodywork mostly corrected. The sides of the bed had a waviness to them that took a lot of sanding and many passes with body filler to get out.  I framed up a paint booth that was uncomfortably small with little air flow. This sucks   Epoxy primer sprayed on, but way too thick. Time to wait a week and sand it all back!  Primed with real primer. I realized afterwards that it would have been a great idea to stop at this point and do more bodywork, but I was so done with that poo poo  Spraying on the money coat. I don't have any good photos of the tiger-stripe pattern I laid down, but it was bad. Time to wait another week and sand it all back!  All done spraying silver and clear. Mistake #387,345: The last layer of silver is a mist coat to even out the metallic pattern. I sprayed 3 coats of clear using this same pattern/flow and it did not look or feel awesome. SIGH   50 hours of sanding and polishing later, it turned out ok   Can't forget the 80's stickers! TL;DR - roll it on or find a body shop
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Jul 1, 2014 17:16
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Parts Kit posted:One thing to read up on is how many cubic feet per minute your spray gun will require at working pressure. It can take a pretty drat powerful compressor to keep up with a good paint gun and if it can't you'll find yourself having to wait for it to refill. Remember kids, most guns require 30psi at the gun inlet but that is measure while the triggered is being held down and the air is flowing. For my cheapo harbor freight air setup that means about 110-115psi at the compressor regulator. When I switched to the big baller Milton V-style fittings, I could turn the regulator down to 90psi but it was still struggling to keep up. Another thing to keep in mind for any paint job is that sanding sucks. People throw around big numbers of hours spent sanding, and we all need to keep in mind that 5 minutes of sanding is really, really boring.
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Jul 9, 2014 04:39
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