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Rhyno posted:When I was 18 I could put down 3 double Whoppers without breaking a sweat. Just the thought of doing that today makes me sick to my stomach. 3 loving times a week. And I lost weight and gained muscle. Hard manual labor in single digit temps after dark will do that to you. Terrible Robot posted:This but replace Volvo with Subaru. And I'm not finished fixing it yet, because it keeps. loving. breaking. in new and exciting ways. Put me on the list too. Except with jeeps. Actually, here's what I have replaced on the red toilet jeep since 2010. And this is only the things I remember. Upstream and downstream O2 sensors radiator both driveshafts all shocks every brake line and hose every brake cylinder and caliper all brake rotors shoes pads and drums all ebrake cables rear hatch harness, twice (rebuilt the broken one with all aerospace grade super flexy, super high temp, super abrasion resistant wire in the flex section the second time.) hatch struts engine, all seals transmission rebuilt transfer case front ujoints balljoints wheel bearings both steering knuckles all tie rod ends track bar alternator PS pump PS hoses battery ECU CPS ignition coil all engine/trans mounts rear leafs, shackles airbags (it came to me with none) steering wheel heater core fuel sender and tank (twice. this is my fault) whole exhaust system, multiple times. all but one were my fault wiring harness repair to all 4 doors, both tail lights, the rear chassis harness, the fuel pump, and the trailer harness TPS tail lights (my fault. drat ninja trees) swaybar bushings and endlinks all front sheetmetal (it came to me all mismatched) horn clockspring steering intermediate shaft exhaust manifold windshield, 3 times, and it needs another. All this year. CTS starter bellhousing both headlights, again every bulb has burned out, most of them have burned out and gotten me pulled over radio died and it still needs: rear wheel bearings, pinion bearing, carrier bearings ac evap core fuel level sender wiring and sender rust repair on the rear of the frame seats radio, again rockers door catch straps and hinge rebuilds on both front doors hatch latch handle drivers door drivers door hinge pins both front doors need replacement catch straps bellhousing, AGAIN ... AKA "everything I haven't replaced yet". I'm so goddamn close to cutting the stupid piece of poo poo up for scrapmetal and buying something else.
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Jul 2, 2014 17:32
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 11:30 |
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The bellhousing I replaced because it broke after I did the auto to manual transmission swap, which involved changing the bellhousing of course. Then it cracked again.  Probably replacing it tonight after work unless I go with "maaaaan, gently caress THAT" and go home instead.
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Jul 2, 2014 18:51
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Did I say I replaced the TPS on that loving piece of poo poo yet? Because it died on me on the way home so I had to make extremely gentle throttle changes to avoid confusing it, if you move slowly enough the O2 sensor alone can keep up with the required mixture changes. For fucks sake jeep, stop being a shitbag or I am crushing you. I will take pleasure in it. Don't. loving. Tempt. Me.
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Jul 3, 2014 01:51
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Man, that sucks dude  Let me know if you want to get drunk and disorderly and/or burn poo poo and blow things up.
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Jul 3, 2014 20:37
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Blew 55 bucks on a new TPS for the shitcan, since it was throwing two codes, both for the TPS, and acted like it had a dead spot at normal driving throttle position. Not only did it not fix it, it is now throwing a MAP sensor code as well and is worse. gently caress this loving thing. I would suspect it is a broken sensor supply voltage wire since they share a supply but they are throwing opposite "sensor out of range" signals, so it is at least two broken wires or a DOA sensor and another failed sensor. 
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Jul 4, 2014 01:40
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I learned to drive stick in my 5 ton in a mall parking lot, then drove it 550 miles home from the southwestern bumfuckistani corner of pennsylvania. Fun trip.
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Jul 5, 2014 01:56
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It never fails. Now not only have I broken 3 bellhousings no one else breaks, the bellhousing I pick up for a project for free (normally sell for 275 bucks) turns out to have been broken and welded back together. Welding is great, but it is warped to poo poo and doesn't fit the back of the motor anymore. My guess is it was welded clamped to a table, not bolted to the engine/a junk block, so the broken piece wasn't aligned right. Oh well, I will use it for mockup and then buy the $650-750 lakewood blowproof I should probably have in this project anyways. No real loss, drove 20 miles extra yesterday, don't really care. I just have the worst luck with bellhousings. Dammit. kastein fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Jul 5, 2014 |
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Jul 5, 2014 20:33
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Ok, so what's the best way to clean out a funky plastic master cylinder reservoir? Obviously I'd like something that will eat old brake fluid gunk but not chew through the plastic. I've got a jug of acetone, but I'm kind of leery about that. The kind of brakleen I use is mostly acetone so I would assume it is fine.
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Jul 7, 2014 01:59
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I just spent all day doing a balljoint, a cv shaft, wheel bearings, pads, and rotors on a friends accord. Would have taken an hour flat on my jeep, 30 minutes without the balljoint. I guess that's the price you pay for 35mpg. Now I am all tired out and ready to sit in a chair at a desk for a week.
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Jul 7, 2014 02:35
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some texas redneck posted:I played with a lot of You and me both, man. Those douchebags need to pay. If they hadn't done that, today would have taken like 2 hours. If they had simply outboarded the bearing mounting surface another 0.25", it would have taken even less. (You can't get the drat balljoint out without removing the wheel bearing.)
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Jul 7, 2014 03:44
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vacuum lines and stupidly complex carb), it was almost exactly like opening the hood of any of the others.
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That is not a car, that is a lunchbox.
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Jul 7, 2014 21:26
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Rhyno posted:The suspension on my friend's car is hosed. Sick stance, brah. (Probably super toed out or a bad tie rod end or balljoint, as you guessed.)
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Jul 8, 2014 18:55
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cursedshitbox posted:I get pissy when the humidity is over 20%. Come to the northeast and you can experience this every day for several months in the summer. Makes me glad I work in an air conditioned office + shop these days. 
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Jul 9, 2014 16:21
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mariooncrack posted:The only problem for me is that they tend to turn the air conditioning up too high and I end up wearing a hoodie in the middle of the summer I'm happy in jeans and a tshirt anywhere from 50 to 75 degrees, so I mostly don't even notice. If I'm actually moving around and doing something other than computering, make that 35 to 65 degrees.
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Jul 9, 2014 16:57
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What really sucks is when it expires and some scumbag company swoops in and registers it before you can, then tries to extort 3 figures from you to get it back. Fortunately I've never had this happen to a domain I cared about. Another tip - once you get the domain, you can find out exactly which images you actually need to restore by looking through apache's (assuming here) access.log for 404'd requests that end in jpg/png/etc. Then just restore those files.
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Jul 9, 2014 19:53
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At least people don't blame you for breaking out the blue tipped wrench, big hammers, and getting downright medieval with poo poo on those, right? I mean, hexagonal nuts aren't even hexagonal anymore half the time on equipment like that. Or round. Or even still on this plane of existence.
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Jul 10, 2014 01:43
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Goddamn, that's some gnarly rust. Last time I had a seized yoke nut issue, it was only a 1.25" nut and using a 3/4" breaker bar, 4 feet of pipe, and a pipe wrench to stabilize the yoke, then jumping on the motherfucker was all it took to pop it loose. This after a 1000 foot pound impact wrench was denied.
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Jul 10, 2014 02:02
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freelop posted:I suppose it would be futile to try to explain that drivers of vehicles that literally use coal as a fuel source try to avoid black smoke as it generally means they are using too much coal It's the same as hellaflush tards, they saw that more camber = go faster on racetrack, and more smoke = more power in a diesel, so time to crank it up to 11 and be aggressively ignorant about everything. Same obsession with (idiotic) form over function, even to the point of reducing function, trashy catchphrase/meme stickers, and gaudy stick-on bullshit.
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Jul 10, 2014 15:13
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13 INCH DICK posted:I found a working Acer Aspire One 160gb netbook and charger and some speakers in the dumpster last night. It was with a big load of other stuff that looked like an apartment clearout and I just happened to notice it peeking out. Fresh install of XP, nothing on it at all. That name. Did you create that account or was it already on there?
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Jul 10, 2014 19:17
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Rhyno posted:What's AI's thoughts on Motorcycle "clubs"? Three people I know have joined them in recent months and the guys already in these things are just the douchiest people I've ever met. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3AeRbqhi0I
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Jul 11, 2014 15:43
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BraveUlysses posted:I already worry enough that the oil I'm buying is someone's returned oil, this is just more nightmare fuel. That happened to me once at walmart and I check under the caps to make sure the seal is present and actually attached now.
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Jul 11, 2014 16:32
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Bare grounds/earths are fine, going to the nearest water pipe was ok in the 50s/70s but is strictly verboten now. Those look OK. I know the britland electrical system is some goofy rear end "make a big loop around the entire building, fuse the plugs on the devices not the circuit" system that makes absolutely no sense to me but 3 cables into a box is no big deal here in the US.
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Jul 11, 2014 17:16
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Tommychu posted:Just thought about it and a kitchen plug would likely be a GFCI, and you'd want your lights to piggyback on a GFCI in that room so if it trips it kills everything. My bathroom is wired like that at least. At least in the US, it's customary (when your electrician isn't a knob, that is) to run lighting off the receptacle circuit for the next room over and vise versa. Why? It means if you need to replace an outlet, you can do so with the lights still on instead of fumbling around in the dark while holding a flashlight in your teeth. Or, you can replace a light fixture while using a worklight plugged into an outlet. I don't know if this is code requirement or not, and old properties may or may not follow this guideline. And that sounds like a lot of PO fuckery to me, but I don't know .ca code. InitialDave posted:You do have fuses/breakers on each circuit as well as on the plug. Also, ring mains are a pretty sensible idea, if you think about it in terms of trying to do the job with as little wiring as possible - it came about as a standard after WW2, so there was something of a lack of copper. And you know what happens with standards once they're well dug-in and widely used. Ahh, the way I heard it put was that the entire house was one circuit for receptacles, not that there would be multiple circuits. I'm not sure how you save copper by wiring all the way around and then back to the breaker again, but I'm probably misunderstanding something. kastein fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Jul 11, 2014 |
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Jul 11, 2014 18:27
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jammyozzy posted:Trip report: made a cup of tea, house is still standing. Success. Now you sound like the guys from Project Binky. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hCPODjJO7s
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Jul 11, 2014 22:06
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Goober Peas posted:Grab Corn Chips and get smashed. Oh believe me we are working on that right now 
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Jul 12, 2014 02:57
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InitialDave posted:You usually have a lighting ring and sockets ring on each floor at a minimum, plus separate wiring for cookers and the like. Huh. Did people actually run separate cables all the way back to the breaker panel? Because how we do it here is we start from the panel, go to the closest box, then to the next, etc etc. For each room.
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Jul 12, 2014 15:25
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Fart Pipe posted:My great aunt who lives right next to me started feeding Corn Chips so she doesnt come around the shop anymore. Im totally batting zero these days I saw corn chips sunning on a rock by the driveway when I left, actually.
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Jul 12, 2014 19:07
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Found a '73 Nova in the local yard with an 8.5" 10-bolt that I want. Problem is, the bonehead that put the slapper bars on managed to trash 1 U-bolt nut per side so I can't get the loving thing out there. I'm heading back tomorrow with a hacksaw. And my wife's car... Buy a cordless angle grinder and bask in its greatness. I have literally never unbolted an axle ubolt. I only cut them. 15 minutes to pull a rearend using nothing but a sawzall, angle grinder, wire cutters for the brake line and sensor wires, maybe a box wrench to undo shock bolts and driveshaft bolts, or just sawzall the driveshaft and angle grind the shock piston rods...
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Jul 12, 2014 21:47
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I hope you have a lot of patience, or bring spare blades, because those goddamn bolts are hardened. I learned that trying to use a sawzall to cut through them once... it works, but is slow going if you want to not slag the blade. Make sure you cut in the most economical spot - typically diagonally across the arch of the bolt, if it is a half round ubolt, or "my life sucks"* cut in one of the legs (the one with the stuck nut) if it is a square-top one. Having to cut the drat thing in two spots would just be awful. Oh, look the hell out when you get about 75% of the way through, I've had them snap at that point and let loose with a hell of a bang - in fact it jumped out of the spring plate and put a dent in the fender well. I was glad I wasn't downrange from it. * every time I've run into this there is approximately no convenient way to get a clear shot at the leg I have to cut without having 8 elbows and a saw that goes around corners.
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Jul 13, 2014 03:34
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If I had a heated shop, new hampshire or vermont. And I will have one if I ever manage to move there. The rest either is too flat, too hot, too drat cold, sucks for legal reasons, or packed too full of assholes  I'll take rust over dealing with californians and CARB.
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Jul 13, 2014 05:02
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Man. Shooting mice with a .177 air rifle might not be sporting, but it sure finishes them off in a hurry Fucker won't be keeping me awake tonight, that's for sure.
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Jul 13, 2014 06:01
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mafoose posted:These are the least service friendly disc brakes I've ever done. Early 90s honda accord (at least 92 through 97) Somewhere, aceofsnett and STR are angry and they don't even know why.
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Jul 13, 2014 20:07
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So how many of those rotten rear end Toyota frames was your plant responsible for releasing into the world? 
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Jul 14, 2014 20:58
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Series 3 carrier: make a desk toy out of it! Then buy a new one of the proper deck height off justdifferentials.com for a reasonable price. Phone posted:CPR is kinda lovely. If you do it right you break all sorts of fun stuff that you can't put a cast on. *is still alive* *complains about broken ribs*
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Jul 16, 2014 07:26
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alternate.eago posted:My brother and I are battling feral cats. There are like 60 of them in the neighborhood, the lady next door keeps feeding them. I'm tired of the cats fornicating and giving birth in my garage, and on my crown vic. Buy a lot of firecrackers, electric fuses for them, an electronically controlled garden sprinkler, and a motion detector. Assemble.
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Jul 16, 2014 17:05
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I kept the bench seats from my old dodge 2500 van when I scrapped it for exactly the same reason.
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Jul 17, 2014 02:00
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Just measure the height, diameter, pin spacing, read the voltage and capacitance plus temp rating off the old one, then order the same thing off digikey/mouser. Both are authorized distributors for everything they stock and US based. Not difficult, unless something is out of stock.
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Jul 18, 2014 06:36
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Viggen posted:Wow. I had no idea these guys had a business plan that would enable them to exist after 2004. You don't need to replace with exactly the same part, though some people will care that much. Replacing electrolytic caps, the specs you need to follow are: Height: same or lower Diameter: same or lower Rated working voltage: same or higher ESR (effective series resistance): same or lower. If your original doesn't specify this, don't specify it either, then sort by ESR in the results and order the lowest ESR cap you feel like spending the money on. Capacitance: same or somewhat higher. 20-30% isn't going to hurt most applications where you'll find a bulging electrolytic. I wouldn't think twice about substituting a 470 for a 330, for instance. In fact it should actually help, if anything. Pin spacing: the same as original Stick with name brands (nichicon, rubicon, panasonic, et al) and you are fine. So just look up the original, write those specs down, then go into the parametric search again and select your specs (you can select multiples using ctrl/shift, as usual), check "in stock", select all packing options except the bulk options (basically do NOT select digi-reel, tape and reel, ammo box) and tell it you want to order ONE. You should get a list of what you can use.
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Jul 18, 2014 18:01
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Viggen posted:Yeah. I just like to use the same parts, so I can easily tell when someone is trying to defraud me. They've gone as far as to soak off my stickers and try to reglue them.. to get something for free that would have cost them $40 otherwise. According to my info Digikey has em for $2.74 each in qty1, 4k available, today. It's a reel of 4k but they're happy to sell them as onesies too. You save 23 cents each by ordering from Mouser, their qty1 price is $2.51. There doesn't appear to be a very good substitute available, but I only spent about 15 seconds searching for one. PS: if you need parts and have a specific part number in mind, go to https://www.octopart.com and enter the part number. Select your favorite authorized distributor that lists stock with an MOQ (min order qty) you can meet (they have an asterisk next to the name.) Order and wait. I do this poo poo literally all day at work while designing embedded system modules and sensor interfaces, so I'm pretty used to it.
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Jul 18, 2014 19:28
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 11:30 |
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Bucephalus posted:I'm disassembling a YJ to replace the frame and tub. That sounds more like disassembling a YJ to put its parts on another with less rust.
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Jul 20, 2014 01:08
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