Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Few days later, and we’re mounted. Notice anything familiar in here IOwnCalculus?


:getin:

I'm painfully close to being able to test-drive mine now that I've got it plumbed in - just some stupid A/C wiring that I want to clean up and then I need to clear all of the junk out of the bed. I wonder how it will stop now that the rear brakes get fluid?

And yeah GM used that steering box everywhere... and it is loving heavy. Unfortunately the truck versions are just different enough that we can't easily swap on any of the cheap quick ratio options that the car guys have.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I've thought about that, but the LS1 makes the various bolt-on R&P kits a bit trickier. Because the column sits outside the frame and any affordable R&P has the input on the inside of the frame, you need to run the shaft across the framerail. The engine stand setup I have seems to be the least compatible option for any of them. If I ever go R&P it would have to be as part of a full crossmember swap.

At any rate... for reasons I can't determine, the random Autozone rebuild box I got seems to be a full turn quicker than the one I took off. I haven't driven it at speed yet but so far I'm happy with it.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





This is a big part of why I was quite happy to be able to get pre-flared, hand-bendable lines :v:

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Couldn't hurt to ask!

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Blech. My first reaction there honestly would be to see how much a repro bezel would cost.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003






:vince: Even from the spendy shops, that same part for my truck is <$100, and at least a few years ago you could find it for <$50 easy.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





What fluid are you actually using?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Grabbed a couple quarts of Valvoline conventional 80w90. Opinions on that?

I've never heard of any conventional oil that supposedly has the friction modifiers built in. Nothing wrong with running one but the only oils I've seen that claim to have the right mix are all full synthetics (Mobil1, Lucas, Royal Purple, etc).

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003






You tease.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Mmmm yesssss. Whenever I get around to doing a 5-lug swap and bigger-than-15" wheels, I can never decide if I want to do 17" Soft 8s or 18" (or 20") Torq-Thrust clones.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





some texas redneck posted:

Not on the engine, but GM does this on the gearbox drain for anything with the Getrag manual gearbox. On my car the drain plug is about 2 inches from the subframe, so it's impossible to ever drain the gearbox unless you cut down an allen key.

... which I've been saying I would do for over a year.

Eh, Mazda did that too on the MS3. Big-rear end hex (24mm, I think?) with next to no clearance, so I dremeled one in half.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





So I'm reading through this and the further down I go, I start flashing back to holy poo poo I'm old about 15 years ago when my dad and I were replacing the engine mounts in my GMC. "Huh, yeah, those things were a cast-iron bitch, wonder if he had trouble with a hoist..."

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

No pictures here as my photographer (wife) went on a walk with my mom and the dog. We wrestled with two loving bolts for almost two and a half hours. Got the driver side in, couldn't get the passenger. Fought that for a while, but gave up. Pulled the driver side out and got the passenger side right in. Now the driver side (that went RIGHT loving in the first time) didn't want to line up at all. We fought this for longer than we probably should have, but my dad and I are both stubborn asses so time marched on as we struggled. Eventually, we came to the realization that we should shift focus to the passenger side. Out came the passenger bolt, driver side went right in (bastard) and we took 5 minutes to think. Eventually, I got the passenger bolt about halfway home and dad lifted the engine just a hair with a length of 2x4. As soon as he hit the sweet spot, the bolt sunk home.

:ortiz: That sounds very, very familiar. Congrats on the progress!

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Even on trickle, a week should get you at least one crank. That battery is dead.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Don't even need to do that. Get a free Harbor Freight multimeter, have someone try cranking it while you measure the voltage. Bet it drops down to drat near 0V.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Times like that I wish I didn't do ahead-of-the-wheel side dumps on my C10. I can't have it running in the garage for very long without flooding the place with CO in a bad way :v:

I should probably get some ductwork like they use at the sniffer.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I don't think there's much ignition-hot wiring under the hood that isn't going to be feeding the... ignition.

Run a relay off of the positive terminal, trigger it with a switched wire from the fusebox on the firewall.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Indeed, looks awesome. I kinda wish 18" Soft 8s were a thing, I have to go to 18" wheels on my truck to get some proper sticky summer rubber in a tire that's more than 25-26" tall.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Thanks guys.

IOC, surely there's some DudeBro brand that makes a Soft 8 knockoff in 18", no? The tires on here are 25.7" so yeah, that'd probably look a bit goofy under your truck. What size are you running now?

Edit: Dear god, Summit's selection of 18" truck wheels are loving hideous. :gonk:

245/60R15 front (26.6" tall) and 275/60R15 rear (28" tall). I'd like to get the front and rears closer to the same height. Current bolt pattern is 6x5.5" but since most of the wheels that are available in that size are particularly hideous, I'll switch to 5x5"... eventually. Doing so makes rear discs much easier too.

nonedit: Ha, the BFG Radial T/A is the only tire TireRack even lists in 245/60R15 anymore. They used to have a bitchin' Yokohama Avid S/T in that size 10+ years ago, but because the old fucks who buy tires in this size are scared of change, they still keep buying the same old BFGs.

Actual edit: Huh, Discount has some 255/50R17 and 275/50R17 tires that might actually work out. TireRack doesn't even list either of those sizes.

IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Feb 8, 2016

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Nice. If I ever manage to trash my LS1 I'd gladly give up the aluminum block for another 62 cubic inches.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





LS developments?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





The archives lock was broken for a while. I think it might be running again but since it depends on Radium code, who knows when it will break again.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





That looks awesome.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Looks drat good.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I've got nothing because across two columns and a decade and a half, I haven't figured out how to make the Grant horn on my truck not randomly honk if I turn with the turn signal engaged.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Carb doesn't work? Better ditch it for LSX power.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yeah that looks really good.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





That came out awesome. You've got the hard part done anyway. Refinishing it later is easy by comparison.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Puking out the vent line? I remember reading somewhere that if a trans is fully dry, you can't fill it all in one shot because you need the pump to move some fluid into the converter first.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Boaz MacPhereson posted:

I'm pretty drat pleased right now. :toot:

You drat well should be.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I've been tempted on many an occasion to get one of these for my C10.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I haven't tried that yet but I like the look of it. I have the corrugated split loom on a lot of mine and it has turned quite brittle over the years so I'm less than happy with it.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





The level sender is probably just a switch. So just need to figure out if the wire in the harness should get 12V or ground when that switch activates.

Does the harness move the headlights onto relays, or does it follow the old GM policy of running the current through the switch?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yeah, by virtue of having just two wires and the purpose it serves, it is almost certainly a switch instead of some form of level sensor. So the only thing you need to figure out is if low level means the switch is closed, or if it means the switch is open. The rest of the circuit is easy once you know that.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





The switch itself shouldn't care. Also, given that it's installed in what I believe to be a plastic brake reservoir, it probably can't self-ground

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Nice, and congratulations on picking up another project :haw:

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yup, it's so much easier to work with than the corrugated poo poo.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I am now all the more glad that my C10 is the last generation that still had the key in the dash.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Those wheels look perfect.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I've never heard of that either and I definitely swore up a storm the one time I had to put a fuel pump on my old SBC.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Return lines are under far less pressure. If you could make / buy an appropriate piece of tube, you could cut the failed crimp off and replace it with a tube and a clamp to join it to the existing return line.

But if a crimp like that has failed, the rest of the hose probably isn't far behind.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply