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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Few days later, and we’re mounted. Notice anything familiar in here IOwnCalculus? I'm painfully close to being able to test-drive mine now that I've got it plumbed in - just some stupid A/C wiring that I want to clean up and then I need to clear all of the junk out of the bed. I wonder how it will stop now that the rear brakes get fluid? And yeah GM used that steering box everywhere... and it is loving heavy. Unfortunately the truck versions are just different enough that we can't easily swap on any of the cheap quick ratio options that the car guys have.
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# ¿ Jul 21, 2014 22:06 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 19:25 |
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I've thought about that, but the LS1 makes the various bolt-on R&P kits a bit trickier. Because the column sits outside the frame and any affordable R&P has the input on the inside of the frame, you need to run the shaft across the framerail. The engine stand setup I have seems to be the least compatible option for any of them. If I ever go R&P it would have to be as part of a full crossmember swap. At any rate... for reasons I can't determine, the random Autozone rebuild box I got seems to be a full turn quicker than the one I took off. I haven't driven it at speed yet but so far I'm happy with it.
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# ¿ Jul 21, 2014 23:47 |
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This is a big part of why I was quite happy to be able to get pre-flared, hand-bendable lines
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# ¿ Aug 1, 2014 05:09 |
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Couldn't hurt to ask!
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# ¿ Aug 1, 2014 18:14 |
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Blech. My first reaction there honestly would be to see how much a repro bezel would cost.
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# ¿ Aug 18, 2014 04:06 |
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:300 bones. http://www.classicindustries.com/product/1971/nova/parts/n668205.html Even from the spendy shops, that same part for my truck is <$100, and at least a few years ago you could find it for <$50 easy.
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# ¿ Aug 19, 2014 21:35 |
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What fluid are you actually using?
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# ¿ Dec 12, 2014 16:39 |
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Grabbed a couple quarts of Valvoline conventional 80w90. Opinions on that? I've never heard of any conventional oil that supposedly has the friction modifiers built in. Nothing wrong with running one but the only oils I've seen that claim to have the right mix are all full synthetics (Mobil1, Lucas, Royal Purple, etc).
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# ¿ Dec 15, 2014 04:52 |
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You tease.
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# ¿ Dec 28, 2014 04:11 |
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Mmmm yesssss. Whenever I get around to doing a 5-lug swap and bigger-than-15" wheels, I can never decide if I want to do 17" Soft 8s or 18" (or 20") Torq-Thrust clones.
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# ¿ Jan 3, 2015 00:09 |
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some texas redneck posted:Not on the engine, but GM does this on the gearbox drain for anything with the Getrag manual gearbox. On my car the drain plug is about 2 inches from the subframe, so it's impossible to ever drain the gearbox unless you cut down an allen key. Eh, Mazda did that too on the MS3. Big-rear end hex (24mm, I think?) with next to no clearance, so I dremeled one in half.
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# ¿ Mar 24, 2015 17:59 |
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So I'm reading through this and the further down I go, I start flashing back to holy poo poo I'm old about 15 years ago when my dad and I were replacing the engine mounts in my GMC. "Huh, yeah, those things were a cast-iron bitch, wonder if he had trouble with a hoist..."Boaz MacPhereson posted:No pictures here as my photographer (wife) went on a walk with my mom and the dog. We wrestled with two loving bolts for almost two and a half hours. Got the driver side in, couldn't get the passenger. Fought that for a while, but gave up. Pulled the driver side out and got the passenger side right in. Now the driver side (that went RIGHT loving in the first time) didn't want to line up at all. We fought this for longer than we probably should have, but my dad and I are both stubborn asses so time marched on as we struggled. Eventually, we came to the realization that we should shift focus to the passenger side. Out came the passenger bolt, driver side went right in (bastard) and we took 5 minutes to think. Eventually, I got the passenger bolt about halfway home and dad lifted the engine just a hair with a length of 2x4. As soon as he hit the sweet spot, the bolt sunk home. That sounds very, very familiar. Congrats on the progress!
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# ¿ Apr 23, 2015 04:18 |
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Even on trickle, a week should get you at least one crank. That battery is dead.
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# ¿ Sep 14, 2015 00:33 |
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Don't even need to do that. Get a free Harbor Freight multimeter, have someone try cranking it while you measure the voltage. Bet it drops down to drat near 0V.
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# ¿ Sep 14, 2015 05:56 |
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Times like that I wish I didn't do ahead-of-the-wheel side dumps on my C10. I can't have it running in the garage for very long without flooding the place with CO in a bad way I should probably get some ductwork like they use at the sniffer.
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# ¿ Sep 14, 2015 17:30 |
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I don't think there's much ignition-hot wiring under the hood that isn't going to be feeding the... ignition. Run a relay off of the positive terminal, trigger it with a switched wire from the fusebox on the firewall.
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# ¿ Oct 3, 2015 05:06 |
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Indeed, looks awesome. I kinda wish 18" Soft 8s were a thing, I have to go to 18" wheels on my truck to get some proper sticky summer rubber in a tire that's more than 25-26" tall.
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# ¿ Feb 8, 2016 21:07 |
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Thanks guys. 245/60R15 front (26.6" tall) and 275/60R15 rear (28" tall). I'd like to get the front and rears closer to the same height. Current bolt pattern is 6x5.5" but since most of the wheels that are available in that size are particularly hideous, I'll switch to 5x5"... eventually. Doing so makes rear discs much easier too. nonedit: Ha, the BFG Radial T/A is the only tire TireRack even lists in 245/60R15 anymore. They used to have a bitchin' Yokohama Avid S/T in that size 10+ years ago, but because the old fucks who buy tires in this size are scared of change, they still keep buying the same old BFGs. Actual edit: Huh, Discount has some 255/50R17 and 275/50R17 tires that might actually work out. TireRack doesn't even list either of those sizes. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Feb 8, 2016 |
# ¿ Feb 8, 2016 22:51 |
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Nice. If I ever manage to trash my LS1 I'd gladly give up the aluminum block for another 62 cubic inches.
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# ¿ Jun 6, 2016 21:07 |
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LS developments?
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# ¿ Sep 24, 2016 04:21 |
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The archives lock was broken for a while. I think it might be running again but since it depends on Radium code, who knows when it will break again.
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# ¿ Jan 3, 2017 02:31 |
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That looks awesome.
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# ¿ Mar 2, 2017 01:55 |
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Looks drat good.
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# ¿ Jun 10, 2017 02:16 |
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I've got nothing because across two columns and a decade and a half, I haven't figured out how to make the Grant horn on my truck not randomly honk if I turn with the turn signal engaged.
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# ¿ Jun 21, 2017 04:56 |
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Carb doesn't work? Better ditch it for LSX power.
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# ¿ Jun 26, 2017 08:28 |
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Yeah that looks really good.
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# ¿ Nov 23, 2017 06:16 |
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That came out awesome. You've got the hard part done anyway. Refinishing it later is easy by comparison.
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# ¿ Jan 8, 2018 05:37 |
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Puking out the vent line? I remember reading somewhere that if a trans is fully dry, you can't fill it all in one shot because you need the pump to move some fluid into the converter first.
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# ¿ Sep 3, 2018 00:58 |
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I'm pretty drat pleased right now. You drat well should be.
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# ¿ Sep 22, 2018 19:48 |
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I've been tempted on many an occasion to get one of these for my C10.
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# ¿ Feb 7, 2019 18:02 |
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I haven't tried that yet but I like the look of it. I have the corrugated split loom on a lot of mine and it has turned quite brittle over the years so I'm less than happy with it.
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# ¿ Feb 10, 2019 21:34 |
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The level sender is probably just a switch. So just need to figure out if the wire in the harness should get 12V or ground when that switch activates. Does the harness move the headlights onto relays, or does it follow the old GM policy of running the current through the switch?
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# ¿ Apr 13, 2019 23:43 |
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Yeah, by virtue of having just two wires and the purpose it serves, it is almost certainly a switch instead of some form of level sensor. So the only thing you need to figure out is if low level means the switch is closed, or if it means the switch is open. The rest of the circuit is easy once you know that.
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# ¿ Apr 21, 2019 07:00 |
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The switch itself shouldn't care. Also, given that it's installed in what I believe to be a plastic brake reservoir, it probably can't self-ground
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# ¿ Apr 21, 2019 15:07 |
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Nice, and congratulations on picking up another project
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# ¿ Apr 21, 2019 23:00 |
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Yup, it's so much easier to work with than the corrugated poo poo.
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# ¿ Nov 9, 2020 03:19 |
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I am now all the more glad that my C10 is the last generation that still had the key in the dash.
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# ¿ Dec 29, 2020 21:48 |
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Those wheels look perfect.
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# ¿ Aug 13, 2021 21:37 |
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I've never heard of that either and I definitely swore up a storm the one time I had to put a fuel pump on my old SBC.
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# ¿ May 13, 2022 15:10 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 19:25 |
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Return lines are under far less pressure. If you could make / buy an appropriate piece of tube, you could cut the failed crimp off and replace it with a tube and a clamp to join it to the existing return line. But if a crimp like that has failed, the rest of the hose probably isn't far behind.
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# ¿ Jun 26, 2022 18:24 |