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Googling the sku number brings up webcams from YoLuke, some a bit similar looking. They don't have driver downloads on their website though, just a security camera software link that errors out.
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# ¿ Dec 3, 2020 22:52 |
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# ¿ May 15, 2024 17:22 |
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ProperCoochie posted:I'm having a hard time researching and googling answers and opinions on this, so any help is really appreciated. In your place I'd be tempted to just try whatever combination of red or white with the black wire on the audio side kicks it in gear, but understand I'm not qualified in any way. E: Like I'm guessing, black bridged with red from the same bundle Flipperwaldt fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Dec 7, 2020 |
# ¿ Dec 7, 2020 00:17 |
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Don't forget general creature comforts, like a knob for volume control, having a headphone output near where you want it and connecting all your audio stuff through a single usb cable if you're using a laptop.
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# ¿ Mar 14, 2021 13:59 |
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The HDMI over Ethernet thing I'm using only needs to be powered on one end. That seemed fairly typical when I bought it a little over a year ago.
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# ¿ May 10, 2021 00:52 |
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KKKLIP ART posted:I can only find them where both sides are powered, but if you have any that you can find that look good with just the transmitter powered, that would be nifty I obviously don't know about the quality of any of these (there are three links there), but they all seem to be powered from one side only. You're right that there are more, even very similar looking ones that need power on both sides. It somehow seemed to help when I added the edola brand to the search terms, which is weird. Other than that, there was a lot of plain looking at the images to see whether the receiver had an input for power. The ones that say 4K over cat6/7, I'm assuming are fine with cat5 for 1080p. edit: they seem to call this POC, where the power goes through the cable. Though adding that to the search terms brings up a lot of irrelevant stuff as well. Flipperwaldt fucked around with this message at 09:28 on May 10, 2021 |
# ¿ May 10, 2021 09:24 |
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Have you tried a usb extension cord to create some distance between the dongle and the computer? Even a couple of inches could help. Some usb 3 ports can generate crazy amounts of noise in the 2.4ghz band.
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# ¿ Aug 2, 2021 21:09 |
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Imo you don't really need lots more power for office work and web surfing, but it all has to come at the right price.
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# ¿ Aug 10, 2021 01:57 |
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The four digits at the end are measurements of the physical dimensions. The the physical length differs and the hole for the screw to hold them won't be in the same place and they're not intercompatible in that sense. Since your motherboard specifies 110mm, you should be looking for a 22110 form factor drive, as far as I understand.
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# ¿ Jan 11, 2022 18:38 |
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I noticed now I kinda glossed over that 32mm slot, but that doesn't seem terribly common either. Also there could be differences between the slots with regard to how many pci lanes they use and or may disable sata ports or whatever. All that's beyond me, you should ask in the ssd thread, probably.
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# ¿ Jan 11, 2022 18:48 |
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You can get a Windows 7 key for a fiver from SAMart that will activate Windows 10. Or an actual key for under $20. That's if you've lost your own old key and it's proven the drive doesn't work anymore. It's not worth worrying about.
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# ¿ Feb 18, 2022 16:39 |
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I want to get an hdmi signal from one side of a brick wall to another. Are there downsides to using a hdmi to micro hdmi cable and capping that off with a single piece micro hdmi to hdmi adapter? In terms of signal quality. I'm hoping to get by with drilling a smaller hole. Like up to 10-13mm seems feasible with the tools I have and a micro hdmi plug might possibly fit through that.
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2022 20:18 |
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Indiana_Krom posted:It should just work. The actual actual weak point seems to be a rj45 jointer where the in-house network wiring comes up a meter or two short and on the wrong side of the wall. Take that out of the equation and everything works perfectly. So now I'm thinking, bring the extender to where the good network cable ends. It's weird dealing with analogue style problems on a digital signal on a type of cable that isn't made for what you're pushing through it. The jointer is perfectly adequate for actual data transmission between computers, just not what I'm doing with it. There also doesn't seem to be any network cable tester that tells anything beyond 'galvanic connection exists y/n'.
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2022 21:26 |
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I mean I'm still going to use the hdmi to ethernet adapter to get the picture to the bedroom. It's just that in the boiler space it can directly hook into a single continuous cat5 run that I know works with it. Thanks though. It's been a whole journey of discovery and it helps to talk it through with people before I start ordering random crap again.
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2022 23:45 |
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Saukkis posted:You might be able to drill two smaller holes side-by-side.
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# ¿ Apr 16, 2022 01:51 |
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No option to pull and image the drive before anything else?
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# ¿ May 26, 2022 20:12 |
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Kin posted:Ah, sorry I meant the other way around from that. Like, the back of the machine already has an ethernet port, I was just wondering if there was a cable with USB 3.0 input on one end and an ethernet connection output at the other which could plug into it. I then attach the USB dongle to the USB input end and get faster speeds.
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# ¿ Jul 2, 2022 23:35 |
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If there currently is nothing going in terms of backups, an external drive is a good first step in any process, no matter how unrelated. Infinitely better than no backups.
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# ¿ Aug 9, 2022 19:32 |
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The thing marked H might be this?
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# ¿ Oct 29, 2022 12:28 |
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One thing unusual about torrenting is the number of connections made, independent of the speeds achieved.
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# ¿ Mar 14, 2023 17:58 |
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Fhqwhgads posted:Smaller things like laptops/chargers we have voltage adapters which we've used before on visits like this https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Universal-Converter-Charging-Worldwide-dp-B00I065NGC/dp/B00I065NGC/ref=dp_ob_title_ce?th=1
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# ¿ Apr 16, 2023 18:43 |
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If you don't have to rip any stickers or anything to do it, or hack the bios or whatever, you could swap the drive for a cheap ssd and put anything on it you want. That would be reversible when necessary.
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# ¿ Jun 5, 2023 20:53 |
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Qubee posted:I live in the Middle East and have a router that uses a SIM card to connect to the internet. I'm having a nightmare time with this router, it constantly drops connection. If I buy a new router, do they come with SIM card slots or is it something I'd specifically have to look out for? Or do I just hook the new router up to my old one and have everything go through the new router?
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# ¿ Jun 23, 2023 18:47 |
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I mean a hardware hdmi splitter will show the same thing on either or both screens, possibly none, without the computer being any the wiser. You lose the extend option that you don't care about. Be careful shopping for those wrt supported hdmi versions, resolutions and refresh rates though. E: also assume both screens need to be able to support the same resolution and refresh rate for it to work, because the signal will just be cloned. Flipperwaldt fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Aug 16, 2023 |
# ¿ Aug 16, 2023 18:38 |
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You should be able to press win+p multiple times until the right option is selected. If the starting point is consistent for each monitor, so should be the number of times you need to press the combo. Like two in one direction, four in the other or something.
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# ¿ Aug 17, 2023 10:28 |
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I don't think there is any difference between usb 1 and usb 2 cables. Like they don't have any electronics in them, it's the same number of wires, the same connectors. How the hell are they going to differ unless defective.
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# ¿ Oct 6, 2023 00:44 |
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I have a satellite receiver that apparently wouldn't handle usb sticks larger than 16GB when flashing the firmware. And then it turned out that if the first and only partition on it was smaller than that, it didn't matter what the actual size of the stick was. I tried that fully expecting that it simply wouldn't work. I don't think that's typically how these things work though.
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# ¿ Nov 6, 2023 23:47 |
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Fozzy The Bear posted:Generally, if I care about total power consumption, is a laptop is better than a desktop? Would a ~$1,000 laptop draw less power when plugged in compared to a desktop with about the same specs (something like i5 RTX4060). Or is it the same, or would it be too difficult to compare without being more specific? Like, if you go by price, the laptop will consume fewer watts, because it's a less performant computer, generally, probably? But then, as said, low power states might be similar enough. Maybe peak performance isn't that important, but at that point you are considering that lower power desktop, right. There isn't any magic in there. If laptop parts of the same generation were just less power hungry without compromise, they'd use that technology in desktops as well.
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# ¿ Jan 23, 2024 21:20 |
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# ¿ May 15, 2024 17:22 |
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Yeah, that's as expected and I can't promise that it necessarily will, but the only possibility for it to work the way you want is a separate usb lead between pc and monitor.
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# ¿ Feb 17, 2024 23:06 |