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HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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teagone posted:

[edit] Ended up ordering this adapter instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N7OJ3AY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Reviews on Newegg and Amazon report no fires with this one :haw:

Yeah, that looks better, 90° angled ones that have posts that strip the insulation seem to be safer

Edit: oh, and regarding that video I linked, even that guy fell prey to the problem, because he felt like an old adapter that had been working for years was probably OK, which just goes to show how long it can take before the problem manifests itself.

I replaced all of my ones that are the potentially dangerous type and binned all the spares I had too. Even if it doesn't happen to you, it's just a cheap adapter, it's not worth the risk.

The problem basically seems to be a combination of poor manufacturing tolerances, lack of gold plating (which can allow migration of the metal over time) and the fact that the SATA power connector is such a drat fine pitch. The Molex connector end itself is fine, it's just so basic and chunky that it's hard to gently caress it up.

Star War Sex Parrot posted:

We had about a hundred go up in smoke in our lab. I wish I knew who the supplier was on those.

I'd imagine the faulty design is probably produced by a ton of no-name Chinese factories, using the cheapest possible materials.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 13:00 on Dec 8, 2016

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HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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apropos man posted:

So in one paragraph you're against RAID and the next singing its praises?

Might be that he's singing the praises of software RAID.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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eszett engma posted:

Speaking of bad Molex-SATA adapters, I'd like a sanity check on an idea I had: take a bad adapter and cut off the SATA connector, then take a SATA power cable from a dead PSU and connect the Molex plug to the SATA cable using wiring nuts. Is there anything about that arrangement that would cause problems?

As long as you do a clean job (as mentioned, soldered with a bit of heat shrink over the joint), it's probably going to be better than most of the cheap and shonky adapters you can buy anyway.

Edit: this is the first time I've ever heard of "wiring nuts".

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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GobiasIndustries posted:

Do USB 2.0 ports on a desktop PC provide a standard amperage? I've got 2 small devices that need ~200mA to run, I was wondering if I could power them off the ports of my desktop, it's a Phenom II X4 processor, not sure the exact motherboard right now.

Yeah, you can generally guarantee 500mA @ 5V from any USB port.

Edit: but it might only allow 100mA without enumeration

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 10:10 on Jan 16, 2017

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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FizFashizzle posted:

My computer can't play witcher 3

Vaio unibody desktop SVL241290X

Core i7 3630
2.4 ghz

16gb ram

Can the CPU be upgraded or am I just SOL

Your CPU isn't the absolute latest, but it's not slow enough to be the problem; it'll almost certainly be lovely graphics that's the problem, and with an all-in-one, there's little hope of upgrading the GPU...

Might want to find out what graphics actually are in the machine already though, just so we know. Try running Speccy, makes this easy..

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Jan 16, 2017

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Kubrick posted:

Can anyone recommend a good set of speakers for a gaming desktop in the ~$50-100 range. I don't need surround sound or anything, but I enjoy listening to Pandora and the death rattles of my enemies in Battlefield 1. My apartment is above a bedroom so I probably shouldn't get a sub-woofer.

I can highly recommend these Yamahas, for what it's worth: http://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio-visual/speaker-systems/home-speaker-systems/nx-50/?mode=model

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 11:09 on Jan 22, 2017

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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teagone posted:

These are allegedly really nice https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R128...onitor+speakers

I personally don't own a pair, but I think any powered reference monitors will sound pretty solid in the $100 range.

[edit] Another set: https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-P...2Bspeakers&th=1

Oh wow, and for $100, drat

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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kiwid posted:

I'm thinking about getting some IP cameras for our server room. I was thinking about the Ubiquity G3.

My question is do I need the NVR box if I get these camera's?

You can install the software on any suitable server, the NVR is just a convenient "appliance" form of that

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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ufarn posted:

My i5-750 and Noctua NH-D14 are about 7 years old. Should I re-apply some thermal paste to the cpu?

I don't really have any issues like temperature.

Put it under a stress test such as Intel Burn Test or Prime95, and if after a little while you don't go over 80°C, I personally wouldn't worry about it. If it gets a tad too warm, re-applying thermal paste isn't a big job. Noctua's stuff (NT-H1) is still decent, so no worries about using that again.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Rexxed posted:

If you have a clamp style multimeter you may be able to read the AC current through the power cord from the wall.

Only if he opens up the cable and separates the live and neutral wires, putting it around both wires won't work.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Paul MaudDib posted:

The long and short of it is that your CPU is pretty hopelessly out of date. That was not even a high end CPU... in 2012. You're welcome to give it a shot but you probably aren't going to have much luck.

Best option is either a Z170 motherboard + G4560 or G4620 CPU (cheap and OK, plus leaves you an upgrade path to a 7600K or 7600K down the road), or on the high end - a 5820K or Ryzen 7 CPU, but these will require some expertise in tuning and overclocking.

If your GPU is similarly obsolete (below a Radeon HD 7700 or a NVIDIA GTX 480) it's time to upgrade that as well.

I think you've quoted the wrong person

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Actuarial Fables posted:

Once you've wiped/destroyed the drive, unless you're being targeted by a government agency or similarly funded organization, you're safe to dispose of the machine however you want.

Pray tell how one would recover ANY data after the data storage device is removed. Freezing RAM from a recently powered off machine and transferring it to another system only works in a very small time frame, and therefore simply isn't possible on a discarded machine. The EFI and BIOS don't store any user data.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Space Gopher posted:

No, because "perfectly good" IDE drives are vanishingly rare. Magnetic hard drives are mechanical devices, and they wear out. Trusting your data to a drive old enough to start climbing the other end of the bathtub curve (which is any IDE drive, at this point) is not a good idea.

A USB-PATA adapter is a useful thing to keep around, so you can get data off those old drives, but actively using one for anything you care about will probably lead to heartbreak.

Nobody should be trusting their data to any single drive anyway, keep backups. I have piles of IDE drives that work fine, but aren't in use, but mainly because they're too small and too slow, not because of their reliability.

However, it wouldn't be worth spending any money to re-use an IDE drive today, when one can buy a new drive of many times the capacity for probably the amount it would cost to buy a PCI Express IDE controller.

I'd suggest he purchases a USB dock that happens to have IDE on it (as well as SATA, more future utility) and then he can use it to recover data, but not actually re-use the drive permanently.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Apr 24, 2017

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Actuarial Fables posted:

Sorry. I thought my lighthearted joke was a good idea at 1am.

Wow, I really didn't pick up on that, huh? Sorry!
That's what I get for reading Reddit, and expecting someone to say something like that in all seriousness.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Apr 25, 2017

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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TorakFade posted:

Short question: I have an SSD - 250GB Samsung 840 - since 2012, being a normal guy that uses it for Windows and installing a few games it hasn't seen any serious wear and tear.

Samsung Magician tells me it's had 10 TB written onto it, says that the drive condition is "good" and SMART returns all OK values.

Since I'm planning to rebuild my PC from the ground up sometime this year, is there any significant risk of it failing on me or any other reason to change it, besides going for more space? (a 500GB would be good, but an extra 100$ to put in the GPU or CPU would undoubtedly be better performance for $ since I'll be hitting max budget pretty easily)

Edit: what about my standard WD blue 1TB, bought in 2012 as well, with all its spinny mechanical bits? Will it crap on me sometime soon, or will it last another 5 years?

The SSD is no doubt perfectly fine, but the fact you're worrying about it at all tells me you don't have backups. To make backups of a mere 250GB of data is trivially cheap.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 18:25 on May 24, 2017

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Skarsnik posted:

Is there much to choose from between hard drive manufacturers these days?

A drive in my server needs replacing, and ive almost exclusively bought WD hdd for years now, but they seem to have a bit of a price premium over others at the moment

HGST (Hitachi) is statistically better than others, the rest are kind of a wash. A lot of people hate Seagate, but it's mostly down to a few specific lovely models. Everyone's got their anecdotes.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Ularg posted:

I gotta replace my aging and dying seven-year-old HDD. I have one picked out but I wanted to ask if there's going to be a simple way to transfer the data over that won't break everything. Like moving over my Steam library and a bunch of programs.

My steam games folder alone, just the games I didn't put on my SSD totals up to 719GB. Possibility that I just have to cut my losses and redownload what I need but with my 150GB monthly cap and slow download speed I rather not. I may just have to pick out the important games to keep and delete the rest.



(I just reduced the size down to 403GB.)

Steam is easy. Just copy the Steam folder. You don't have to do anything else.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Arivia posted:

Apple still does that sort of thing, but they’re y’know Apple.

They also make the OS, Dell/HP/Acer do not

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Q8ee posted:

Is DS4 a simple plug-and-play kind of deal, or is there some janky software I'll need to download for that as well?

In my opinion, if you want to avoid jankiness altogether, go the Xbox (360/One) controller route. All games in the last few years have built in XInput support, the buttons will match up with the controller, and you don't need to gently caress around.

The Xbox One controller is Bluetooth (I have no experience with it, though), but the Xbox 360 one has its own special dongle which always works fantastically.

vvv Huh, I have literally never had that happen, and I had a 360 from launch. Fair enough. I did go through 3 Xbox 360s, though, they were way less reliable than the controllers

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast
DDR3-1333 is probably the bottleneck.

If it was me, I'd try to pick up some 2400 or at least 2133 with tight timings

Edit: It could be that you have decent RAM already, but you never actually set the RAM speed in the BIOS. Don't know.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Jan 8, 2018

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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40-Degree Day posted:

I looked in my BIOS and was able to enable an XMP profile for my RAM. it bumped it up to 1600Mhz. Thanks for all the help guys. I'm gonna look into upgrading my RAM soon anyways.

Should I upgrade my motherboard to be able to use DDR4 RAM or is it not worth it? Is DDR4 faster or something?

You can't anyway, a 4790K only supports DDR3.
At least you got your RAM up from 1333 to 1600, that was definitely worthwhile.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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40-Degree Day posted:

Yeah, I was able to raise a few settings and it stayed at a stable 60fps.

Glad to hear it.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Q8ee posted:

What fans would you recommend for a Fractal R4 case? I've been using stock fans all these years, but want to buy more to keep temps low. I was thinking of getting 2x Noctua NF-A14, one as an intake and one as an exhaust. Thoughts?

Noctuas aren't cheap, but it's hard to go wrong with them. My define r3 is filled to the brim with Noctuas.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 10:35 on Jan 22, 2018

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Hipster_Doofus posted:

That's just plain loving criminal.

I've seen PSU designs where the connectors are not keyed differently, so you can trivially plug things in incorrectly and fry them. I cannot fathom what would cause someone to design such trash.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Feb 7, 2018

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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DizzyBum posted:

Cross-posting from the Monitor Megathread:

I've been having problems with my new(ish) monitor. It's a Dell U3014. Occasionally, the screen would suddenly go black and not display anything at all. The backlight would stay on, but everything behaved like the monitor was functioning fine, including the monitor buttons. I would usually be able to fix it by unplugging the monitor's power, waiting several seconds, and then plugging it back in. I noticed it would often start doing this when putting the PC into sleep mode.

Well, something happened overnight, and now it's stuck in this black screen state. Plugging/unplugging does nothing, and the screen never shows the "No input detected - power off in 5 minutes" blue box. Same issues as before, but now I can't revert it.

I did some searching around and downloaded a tool called SoftMCCS which does monitor diagnostics. I don't see anything unusual that really stands out to me. The monitor diagnostics all seem to come back normal. The inputs all still seem to *work* but I can never get a picture.

Has anyone had a similar issue with any Dell monitors? I really don't want to have to get rid of this thing. I've tasted 2560x1600 and I'm hooked. :(

Oh, I checked the Advanced Exchange warranty on Dell's website and it expired a year and a half ago.

There are built in diagnostics you could try: https://www.dell.com/community/Monitors/U3014-Issues/td-p/4110823/page/2

It sounds like it could possibly be a power board problem. Many monitors have had lovely capacitors go, causing weird issues. I would definitely check that possibility, any tv repair place could swap some caps on a power board.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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DizzyBum posted:

I just *really* like this monitor.

I don't blame you, I'd really love a 30" 2560×1600 Dell as well. In my opinion definitely worth repairing, seeing as the most expensive part, the panel itself, is most likely not the problem.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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IratelyBlank posted:

What's the deal with old servers posted on ebay for what seems like extremely cheap? I am looking at Poweredge servers with dual Xeons and 64 GB of memory for $200 and I'm wondering what the catch is? I have to share a small workstation farm with several other people in my research group to run simulation software (it's all distributed and remote) and while this is on the low-end of our workstation specs, a few of these would significantly offset the computational load for me if there isn't anything weird going on and and I can just plug it in and install an OS. Power consumption isn't an issue because this won't be in my home.

There's no catch, they're just loud and use a decent amount of power, but that's to be expected. Since that's of no concern to you, buy away.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Hipster_Doofus posted:

I'm going to be shopping for a used laptop soon. Does anyone besides Dell do the "genuine" bullshit with batteries and power supplies?

There's usually a good reason not to use ebay special batteries and chargers anyway

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Mar 4, 2018

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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teagone posted:

One of the larger HDDs in my Plex server is showing a caution warning in CDI:



Based on that reallocated sector value, should I be worried? The drive is still under warranty for a few more months.

Once a drive experiences any problem, there's a hugely increased chance that it will experience more problems in future.

I'd try to get it replaced under warranty.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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ProjektorBoy posted:

Is there even a line of laptops out there that does use socketed CPU's to allow upgrades? I can't remember ever hearing of a laptop where the CPU is soldered in and you can't do a drat thing about it.

Actually, this was the standard thing - socketed laptop CPUs - until the current very thin laptop trend. I know I upgraded my Dell Latitude D800 back in the day (both GPU and CPU!!). Instead of a lever you have a little screw you turn to lock the CPU in to the socket.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Just to chime in with another anecdote relating to that drive model: my wife's machine had one in it, it started to show smart errors, so I cloned the contents to another one I had spare of the exact same model, which had no errors.

A few days later, it simply vanished from an os and bios perspective, and only made clicking sounds. That's the drive without smart errors.

I then I bought a new drive and restored the contents from a backup. Basically, that particular model of Seagate 3TB drive can't be trusted for poo poo.

I also have a third example of that drive where all i/o locks up when you fill the drive to a certain point. I have a big ol' stack of hosed drives at home.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Wooper posted:

I want to connect a monitor to a HDMI port. The monitor has DVI and DP(and VGA). DVI to HDMI cable is half the price of DP to HDMI.
Does it matter any?

dvi to hdmi is passive, that's why it's so cheap

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Qubee posted:

I have two exhaust fans on the bottom of my case, but I have a problem with it. my PSU is directly beside the fans, and some of the wires lightly brush against the fans, which causes noise. it's not a big deal when I'm browsing the internet, but when I play games, it makes a very annoying rhythmic sound. I've tried cable tying the wires out of the way, but I've got nothing to anchor them on in the case. I've tried anchoring them to other wires, but it's only a quick fix and slowly sags back down. any advice?

Buy some wire grilles of the right size, and screw 'em on to the fans

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Arivia posted:

If you're on Windows 10 try disabling fast startup, might be hibernate that's fucky.

Wasn't it introduced with 8? Either way, it's utter crap, and inevitably causes issues.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Nov 6, 2018

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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fishmech posted:

Nice hot take but it's not true. It's perfectly fine for hundreds of millions of users, and usually only has a problem if something else already broke.

Fair enough, I was being overly blunt. But in my opinion it came far too late: when SSDs were already starting to be commonplace.
Such a feature on a system with a hard disk might be worth the potential reliability issues. On an SSD? Why bother?

I remember having a very similar feature on my HTC Desire HD. It worked brilliantly, of course only on the original stock ROM, but yeah, almost instant startup. A cold boot took much longer. It was nice when turning your phone after a flight, but that's basically the only time it was ... desirable.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Nov 6, 2018

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Hotbod Handsomeface posted:

Hi I am reposting this from the build a pc thread as it is more appropriate here.

A few weeks back I posted asking about what video card to get to replace my r9 280x for my i5 4690k and 16gb ddr3 1866MHz system for bang for the buck 1440p 144hz gaming.

I ended up getting a b stock evga gtx 1080 for $400. I also overclocked my cpu to 4.2 GHz.

I am not really seeing a performance increase in games. I've been mainly playing BF1. I am running with everything on low and still regularly dipping below 60 fps. It actually feels a little worse than with the 280x, even with the OC on the CPU. \

I ran the free 3Dmark and got 6287 total with 7516 Graphics score and 3254 CPU score. I also removed the old AMD drivers with DDU in safemode.

Does anyone have any insight on what could be going on? I will say that in BF1 the CPU usage is pegged at 100% and GPU usage is quite low (33%)

What actual 3dmark test was that? I'd be interested in comparing the numbers with a similar system.

Edit: guessing time spy, in which case the numbers aren't weirdly unreasonable

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 09:02 on Nov 10, 2018

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Taima posted:

, why doesn't youtube bother making actual 1080p content as good as it can be on native 1080p screens?

Saves storage, saves bandwidth, thus saving money. There's a reason people who want good quality still buy blurays: bitrate. As far as I'm aware, no streaming service comes close.

Truth is, most people don't notice, so it's wasted on them. Don't you remember the early 2000s when everyone and their dog was watching 4:3 content stretched to a 16:9 crt? Many didn't care.

Add the fact that internet connections are often slow and unreliable, and you have a nice recipe for low bitrate video. Everyone notices buffering and drop-outs, so avoiding those whilst saving money is win-win.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 10:09 on Nov 26, 2018

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Captn Kurp posted:

Trying to install Windows Server 2016 on an old IBM xSeries 346 I got for 50 bucks, I've tried a lot of stuff and I've verified the bootable USB works on other systems but when I try to boot to USB on the server it says it doesn't detect any operating systems.

I realize Windows Server 2016 is not compatible with such an old server but any ideas if there are some tricks I could do to get it working? I disabled some options that might have been causing issues but I'm new to this so its just shooting in the dark.

Is the USB stick formatted as UEFI boot? That's not gonna work. It'll have to be MBR/BIOS, legacy, whatever you want to call it.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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22 Eargesplitten posted:

To test it, are modular cables standardized between manufacturers?

No, and not even between models. Never try this.

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HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Lambert posted:

Good news, USB 3.0 and USB 3.1 are being renamed a second time for marketing reasons!

The timeline:
USB 3.0 -> USB 3.1 Gen1 -> USB 3.2 Gen1
USB 3.1 -> USB 3.1 Gen2 -> USB 3.2 Gen2
USB 3.2 -> USB 3.2 Gen2x2

What the gently caress

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