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wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

Is there any obvious reason why going from 4 dimms to 2 dimms would cause a computer to not boot? I'm try to go from four 4GB stick to two 8GB sticks and when I do the computer will power on but I get a black screen and can't get to the BIOS. That's exactly what it does if there's no RAM installed at all. I've tried all the recommended configs in my motherboard's manual but the computer only seems to boot if all 4 dimms are filled.

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wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

Wilford Cutlery posted:

Does the manual specify which order the slots should be populated? I'd think A1 and B1 first.

That image I posted is from the manual and that's as much direction as it gives. It says to start with A2 and B2 which I did but then I tried A1 and B1 as part of my troubleshooting.

Wilford Cutlery posted:

You could also try going into the BIOS, reset it to defaults, then see if it boots with two.

I can't even get to the BIOS. When the computer starts I get a back screen and even the power button is unresponsive thereafter. Thanks for the suggestion though.

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

Wilford Cutlery posted:

If it boots with all four DIMMs installed, use that config to get into the BIOS and make changes.

Good idea, but resetting the BIOS to factory default made no difference.

Jago posted:

troubleshooting guide

put in all 4 old sticks. it works?
take out all but one, does it boot in slot 1? slot 2? etc
put in two of the old sticks. Try a couple different configurations.
if it works with all these configurations with the old ram, then it appears to be a problem with the new ram.

Try 1 stick of the new RAM, try the other stick alone as well. Do they work alone?
I think you get the idea...



another variable in the bios' RAM section might include "speed" with values like SPD or XMP, these values could be set wrong in/by the bios or the ram itself. Try changing that around.

edit: sorry, you obliviously already went over some of this.

Okay, so I tried this and it turns out I was wrong about needing all 4. Here's what I observed by placing a single stick of each type of ram in just the A2 slot (which is what the manual says to do for single stick configs):

-One stick of the old RAM = All good. Can get to BIOS and boot Windows.
-One stick of the new RAM = Busted. Black screen for about 40 seconds then the computer seems to power-cycle itself. Waited another 40 seconds and got another power cycle.
-The other stick of the new RAM: Same results.

This new RAM is literally just the 8 gig version of the old RAM so I wouldn't think I would need to change the "speed" in the BIOS, would I?

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

SlayVus posted:

What motherboard and CPU do you have? Your system may not support 8GB DIMMs.

Motherboard: ASUS Z170M-PLUS
CPU: Intel i7-6700K 4.0 GHz

The motherboard manual on page 18 has this to say about RAM: "You may install 2 GB, 4 GB, 8 GB and 16 GB unbuffered non-ECC DDR4 DIMMs into the DIMM sockets."

utonium posted:

It might be helpful to know the make and model of old and new RAM. Maybe there's a voltage difference and your BIOS isn't automatically setting it correctly.

Old RAM: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB Kit (4GBx4) DDR4 2400 MT/s (PC4-19200) DIMM 288-Pin Memory
New RAM: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 2400 MT/s (PC4-19200) DIMM 288-Pin Memory

In case you're curious I was having problems with games randomly freezing up that could be a problem with RAM. When I built this machine DDR4 RAM was scarce so I had to do the 4GBx4 setup. RAM's cheap so I figured I would just throw money at the problem and buy new RAM and simplify my setup with 8GBx2. Never had this much trouble with RAM before.

Thanks to everyone for your suggestions so far.

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

SlayVus posted:

I would say upgrade your BIOS if it isn't the latest version. Other than that, if it doesn't work return the RAM. There is no other reason for it not to be working like it should.

My suggestion for some RAM. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233834

Edit: Just found this BIOS upgrade.

Z170M-PLUS BIOS 0408
Enhance compatibility with some memory.

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1151/Z170M-PLUS/Z170M-PLUS-ASUS-0408.zip

Sounds promising. Wouldn't think I'd need a BIOS upgrade on such a new motherboard but here we are. I'll try this next.

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

SlayVus posted:

I would say upgrade your BIOS if it isn't the latest version. Other than that, if it doesn't work return the RAM. There is no other reason for it not to be working like it should.

My suggestion for some RAM. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233834

Edit: Just found this BIOS upgrade.

Z170M-PLUS BIOS 0408
Enhance compatibility with some memory.

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1151/Z170M-PLUS/Z170M-PLUS-ASUS-0408.zip

Just wanted to drop in and say this was the solution. Thanks for the suggestion and thanks to everyone else who replied. Still can't believe I needed a BIOS upgrade to use a slightly different configuration of the same type of RAM.

Good to know the PC still hasn't lost any of it's "charm". :pcgaming:

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

Well, I asked this over in the overclocking thread but it looks like nobody's home there. I have a question about DDR4 and RAM speeds.

I have two sticks of DDR4 2400 RAM at 8gb each for a total of 16gb. The problem is my new motherboard would only boot if I had one stick in; not both. The solution was to put one stick in, get into the BIOS UEFI, and then manually set the RAM speed down to 2133. Once I did that things booted fine and I had 16gb of dual channel memory according to the UEFI.

So my question is this, does it sound like my motherboard was trying to do some automatic overclocking to get the RAM up to 2400 and just messing up?

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

Alereon posted:

Running at 2400Mhz does technically require some slight overclocking of the CPU but should work out of the box if your RAM is DDR4-2400. Make sure you have the latest motherboard BIOS (after verifying Memtest86+ passes).

Thanks for the reply. BIOS is up to date and I tried making a bootable Memtest86+ USB stick but got nowhere so I'll come back to that when I've got a bit more patience.

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

I've got a new-to-me NVIDIA GPU that's exhibiting an odd quirk.

I have a 144Hz monitor and it's working well with the new card but every now and then I'll open an app window that will cause the refresh rate to noticeably dip and the screen to flicker slightly. Like, I can click and drag a Windows Explorer window around and the refresh rate will be 144 but then if I click and drag a different app's window around the refresh rate fluctuates somewhere below 40Hz. But then clicking and dragging the Explorer window around again will set it back to 144. My monitor has a frame rate counter that confirms this is going on.

The GPU's drivers are up to date and this is happening with multiple different apps. Any ideas what I should check next?

Edit: Well never mind. Apparently the solution was to completely disable g-sync, reboot, then enable it again. No idea why.

wash bucket fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Feb 14, 2023

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

Yep, I had a pair of wired Sony earbuds with active noise cancelling about 13 years ago. They had a little box half way down the cord with some controls and a compartment for a AAA battery to power the active noise cancelling. It's always been a "high-end" feature and these days wired earbuds are the budget option so there's hardly any overlap between the two anymore.

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

wedgie deliverer posted:

I don’t want to replace any of these components if I don’t have to. Would an external sound card solve my problems?

That's a big ol "maybe". They're pretty cheap these days so it wouldn't be much of a risk to try.

When you look in Windows Device Manager do you see anything with a yellow exclamation mark next to it?

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

I feel like it would be cheaper just to buy a known good HDMI cable directly from the manufacturer.

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

Edit: I completely glossed over the kiddo part. My bad.

wash bucket fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Mar 5, 2023

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

If your mom is already familiar with Windows then yeah just give Win10 a shot. There are tons of great Linux distros for old hardware (Linux Mint comes in 3 flavors each more lightweight than the last) but no way would I want to troubleshoot my parent's Linux laptop issues over the phone.

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

The tech involved is (surprisingly) simple and cheap so the real challenge is just finding one that isn't aliexpress junk that will fall apart and jam the tape deck.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dH4n8fUjtLQ

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

slidebite posted:

Question about large capacity (18tb+) HDD for local bulk storage.

Is there a difference using a NAS or "Datacenter" drive (WD Red, Ironwolf) as a local SATA drive?

I presume not, but I'm really not sure what the difference is.

If you're just throwing them in a PC you won't notice a difference. NAS and datacenter hard drives usually just have longer warranties and are presumably built to be more reliable since they're used in equipment that could run continuously for years.

Though they might be a little noisier since nobody cares about that in server hardware.

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

Filox posted:

What I'm really asking is a vague sort of question, a consumer question. Are there sites that have a bad reputation? Or manufacturers who are currently out of favor? Who should I avoid?

For manufacturers you should be fine with anything from Samsung, Western Digital, Crucial, and SanDisk. Safe vendors in the US are NewEgg (but not their 3rd party vendors), B&H Photo, Micro Center, Best Buy, or any other store you've heard of. I guess Amazon too but I've had worse and worse luck with them lately.

SSDs come in two major form factors: 2.5" drives that look like old laptop hard drives and M.2 drives that look like a stick of RAM. Go with an M.2 drive if your motherboard supports it and you're looking to install your OS on it. Just be aware that one end of the M.2 drive needs to be held in with a screw so check and see if you know where it is first. Might already be screwed into the motherboard. If not you'll need to buy a screw kit.

Also, sincere question, are you sure your machine doesn't already have a solid state drive? Because that would be very unusual for any machine from the last ten years or so unless you custom build a desktop PC that way.

wash bucket fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Sep 22, 2023

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

Feels like the question of "where's a reputable place to buy common stuff online?" is getting harder to answer.

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

Mao Zedong Thot posted:

yeah it's a gigabyte mobo, thermaltake PSU. I did reseat the ram, no change. thinking it's time for a new mobo and CPU.

edit: both because who knows which one it is, and replacing a 4 year old CPU is the same price as getting a newer different CPU and motherboard.

If you're to that point you might as well reset the cmos jumper on the motherboard for good luck. Or whatever the equivalent is these days. Check the manufacturer's instructions.

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

LRADIKAL posted:

Alternatively, buy a USB dvd/Blu-ray whatever, and keep it in a drawer until you need one.

This is what I do as well. I have one in a drawer to sooth my "just in case" sensibilities but I couldn't tell you the last time I used it.

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

Worth turning off things like xmp/memory-overclocking first or resetting the motherboard to factory.

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

Now squish a fan on it. And post the video.

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

Does anyone have a PC stand they like? Need something to get mine up off the floor so it's not inhaling carpet lint all day.

Amazon has tons of options but they're all from the usual assortment of made up fake companies.

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

MarcusSA posted:

I have been very happy with this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B4VBBP9X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

It is also nice that it is adjustable so if I get a larger case I'll still use it.

Thanks for the recommendation. Unfortunately that one is slightly too small. The Fractal Torrent is a drat beast of a case.

I guess I need to find a rando Amazon stand that's big enough and just roll the dice.

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

Yeah it's 21" deep and the feet are at the very front and back.

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

Actually I forgot all about Etsy. I think I will have a look around there. Thanks.

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wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

HalloKitty posted:

Somewhere the HDMI port designer with his friction only design is cheering whilst his "latching-is-superior" DisplayPort buddy is weeping.
He just wanted your cable to stay plugged in. He thought the big button was big enough

That button doesn't work for poo poo. You tell him I hate his rear end.

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