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SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

Dr Christmas posted:

I got my first ever Gunpla, an RG Gundam Exia. Haven’t seen the series it’s from, but it's cool!

I told my sister I was considering the hobby when she asked for gift ideas and sent a picture of the RX-78-2 from Target, and mentioned that they require some tools. I wasn’t actually looking for that specific model, just a beginner one. She consulted a friend of hers and got me the Exia and a little tool kit.

Exia is the first RG I made (got into this pretty recently myself), and it was a really fun build.

For Christmas I got the RG Eva Unit 0, and I'm really excited to put it together!

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SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

MechaX posted:

I've spent most of my evening in a painting/top coat rabbit hole and my god, people have a lot of different ways of going about this.

So my situation is that my partner got me a HG Destroy Mode Banshee Norn. The "gold" plastic (the V fin, the collar armor, and two of the back psychoframes which have large sickers) look like cheese and I wish to just use gold paint over them. I do have the X-12 gold leaf Tamiya paint in the small bottle, and also the Tamiya gold TS-21 spray can. I also picked up the Tamiya Semi-Gloss and clear spray cans for top coating. I am perfectly fine with every other bit of the Banshee besides the gold plastic.

If I wanted to paint those parts, would I use primer, then hand paint or use the spray can, then top coat it, then panel line, and then top coat it again? I have been getting a lot of varying answers about top coating before and after panel lining given all of the Tamiya spray can stuff is purportedly lacquer, the Tamiya accent panel line paint is enamel, and the X-12 is acrylic, and the gundam markers are "???"

Any assistance or clarification from anyone more versed on the top coat/paint situation would be greatly appreciated

If it were me I would just prime, use the gold spray, panel line, and and shoot it with top coat (with plenty of dry time between each step), but you're correct in that different paints can sometimes react in funny ways.

In the end the best answer is always to just do some testing. Get some plastic spoons, scribe some lines in them, and try different methods out to see what happens/what you like.

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!
I have the Avanti compressor from Harbor Freight and it does a good job. Way easier than rigging up the big compressor.

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

Dr Christmas posted:

Made a big 'ol fuckup on my first Gunpla, the RG Exia, last week. It's a real bummer, I haven't worked on it since.



The peg on the upper arm was not supposed to be shaved off as it is on the left. I'm supposed to hook a plastic ribbon over it and then fit a small fastener over it.

Any thoughts on what to do about it? I found a Reddit post of someone who made the same mistake and people talked about making a replacement peg out of a section of the runner. I tried starting that. Getting it small enough to fit through the fastener will take some work. After that, there's the mater of keeping it at the right angle. Once you put the ribbon on, it presses the arm down just a little.

If you don't mind it being permanent, you could superglue the ribbon and the little white piece that slots on to that peg to the arm. Bit of a delicate job but it'd be tough to tell the difference in the end.

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

Nullkigan posted:

.

You will want a glass file either way, and the DSPIAE Siren is really good if you want something specifically made for models (~£3 - £7 vs £2 - £4 for no-name nail and beauty ones). The only problem I have is that the glass file leaves things a bit too polished and shiny and I've still not figured out what grit of sandpaper I want to cancel that out. This is probably why GunPrimer sell a gate remover and balancer as a set, but those are another case of crazy prices and no stock.




re: shininess

I find a melamine sponge (magic eraser) is about perfect to restore the satin look after filing.

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

Monaghan posted:

Trying to add plaplates for extra details for my mg f91 2.0. I have now resigned myself to the fact since I'm now scribing, adding leds and pla plates, along with my work and family schedule, I will be finishing maybe 3 kits a year.

As long as you buy them at the same rate.

Enjoy your backlog explosion!

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

tenderjerk posted:

In a stunning announcement in 2022, bandai decides to do a new MG
https://twitter.com/HobbySite/status/1539446393076871168?t=I-9mK40UOKe1dJ38Ij2lLw&s=09
come on g-self :zombie:

I read this as Master Grade Ver.Ka 2.0, and was both confused and intrigued.

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

Kaiju Cage Match posted:

Any recommendations for hobby cement?

I like the Tamiya thin stuff myself. The thing to remember is that model cement is a solvent that dissolves the plastic of the model, so essentially you're welding the piece together when you use it.

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!
I'm slowly getting unpacked after a move, but I might manage to get to work on my grandpa 3.0 or if I feel really ambitious I have a Hi Nu Ver Ka needing some love. Tldr I'm maybe in!

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

War and Pieces posted:

This threads most requested MG kits:

More IBO.
Exia 2.0 would also be neat

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!
I have built 3 of the EG grandpa. It's a phenomenal kit for an amazing price.

My only other (built) grandpa is also the Revive, which is good, but not great.

One day (soon?) I'll get the MG 3.0 put together.

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

Chromatics posted:

one weird thing is the full gear version also has a TV green tint to it while at least one of the others are standard white. It made it kind of annoying to paint

And on the subject, it is a little lovely that the full weapon set is the only version with beam saber effect parts.

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

Kaiju Cage Match posted:

Give me an RG horse.

Give ME an MG horse. MG Master is so lonely!

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

RillAkBea posted:



Ver. 3.0 is the newest version of the original design but it arguably has worse articulation in some areas than the 2.0.



And GIANT HANDS

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!
As usual there are some flubs I hope I'm learning from, but Heavyarms is done! (apart from a hinge repair on the other chest piece)


SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

Nodosaur posted:




*sighs*

Here it is I guess. Multiple people have told me it’s not that bad, but all I see are flaws.

That's kinda how it is with your own stuff - you know every bit that didn't go to plan and it sticks out whenever you look.

I tend to just remind myself I know more than before I started, that's always a victory you can take forward.

Nice work, by the way!

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

Nodosaur posted:

thanks...some time has passed, and I'm feeling better about it.

Next is the old rear end Zaku-1...I've already broken two pieces on it, orz.

I need to get some Zaku 1s. I love Zeon suits so much..

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!
I have never tried this, but I've seen videos where people load up the joint with model cement and then use a piece of the runner to draw on it like a crayon. The solvent will of course dissolve the plastic which will fill in the gap and you can sand it down. This would especially be good if you're not painting the kit, since you are using the runner the color will match up

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

Count Thrashula posted:

The RG Sazabi is hilariously large



I love my RG Sazabi. I'm terrified of when the time comes to take it back apart and paint it though.

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!
Honestly probably the most ridiculous thing about the RG Sazabi is that the funnels are seven pieces each.


SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!
I don't have either of the RGs yet, but I'm gearing up to finally put together the Hi Nu ver.Ka I got last year.

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

Nullkigan posted:

I've seen people talk about using fountain pens for it before, and the conclusion they came to was "not great". It's a bit difficult to control the release rate or something? Complaints about an initial blob, and then it being no different to any other type of marking tool. The video of it in action on Amazon, where they're clearly using it just to 'inject' the ink rather than draw with it, makes it look pretty good so it might work.


With a fountain pen that's probably what is expect -they have a rounded ball at the end to make a constant line (and feel smooth on the page).


If people are interested, I can do some experiments with dip pens that have a sharp nib (which I think this "panel liner" is)

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!
The boss of Neo Backlog will be a Nightingale Ver.Ka


e: or an MG Neo Zeong in a box the size of a car

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!
Finally got the Gouf painted and put back together. As usual, I learned a lot. I definitely need to do thinner coats when spraying clear. Here I think I got away with it because at first glance the issues look like deliberate shading. I also had that arm piece in the do-not-paint pile and may go back and correct that at some point.



SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

Tin Tim posted:

Question for the painters itt: What's the stance on washing kits before priming?

I tend to do it, just to be sure I haven't left any dust or finger/machine oil behind. I just jam all the parts in a little ultrasound cleaner and let them dry afterwards.

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

grassy gnoll posted:

"Paint everything purple," I rasp from the swamp in which I and my air compressor dwell.

I'll be sure to post my MG Hi Nu when (if) it's ever done!

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

War and Pieces posted:

Just got a Nu Gundam ver Ka for $1 with Amazon points, what am I in for?

If it's anything like my experience you'll spend the next 9 months planning to start on it "soon"

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

War and Pieces posted:

Very likely. I'm "planning" to paint all the grey panels off white so it may take a while to get off the ground

Be advised that all the purple on the funnels is in waterslide decals and not colored plastic, so plan accordingly there.


vvv yep, totally reading failure on my part there.

Proper advice, pose the funnels in flight! They don't hold together particularly well the way they do on the RG

SnakesRevenge fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Dec 21, 2022

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

IG-88 posted:

Found what I think is a pretty good deal when you compare it to pricing everywhere else (almost half):

Bandai Hobby RG 1/144 Full Armor Gundam Unicorn "Gundam UC" Model Kit https://a.co/d/8HnHM07

That's a lot of Unicorn

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

Waffleman_ posted:

It can depend on your location. My Target has been working through the same small stack for like 8 months and has nothing other than Gundam Breaker stuff now.

Mine normally has a bunch of Strike Freedom, Heavyarms, and Blazing Gundam, but I did snag an inverted red frame Astray a couple weeks ago!

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

War and Pieces posted:

so... this means Zeeks are pro Palestine, right?

Just seems like a bunch of earthenoids to me.

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!
Speaking of really big, red suits, my wife presented me with a RE/100 Nightingale today! She remembered me mentioning it when I got the Hi Nu ver.Ka for my birthday early this year and found one somewhere.

I also got a Graze, some scribing stuff, bits for my pin vise, some mini files, and a little paint shaker/mixer thing so I don't have to sit and shake up paints for half my life.


SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

Ibblebibble posted:

Happy 1000 pages of plamo, may your nubs be ever smoothly cut.

Speaking of which, the Gundam Planet nippers have been out of stock for a year. Do I need to just pony up for Godhands at this point?

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

Mindblast posted:

In the same vein; I'm loving my non brand budget nano file but with both the nano file and hobby knife I often still have a small flat rectangle area that is perfectly flush but seems to have a different type of surface. Like its polished more than the rest. How would I get rid of this effect? My nail buffers don't seem to work. I figured they'd do the trick...

For this I like to use a melamine sponge (magic eraser) to rough the area back up, it matches pretty well with the surface kits come with.

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

GreenBuckanneer posted:



rate my backlog

Rating: Target


For real though, enjoy!
The Strike Freedom is a lot of fun with the backpack and gold frame, and while I haven't built the Barbaririus, I like the Barbatos Lupis Rex and the idea is neat.

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

Pierson posted:

Sorry bit of a mis-understanding there, I don't mean full resin kits I just mean the conversion kits that to my understanding are additional parts for standard plastic models. Stuff like this for the Gouf Custom: https://www.museigenhobby.com/product/sh-studio-1-60-gouf-custom-conversion-kit/. Are they just additional/replacement parts and so just need a bit more care than normal plastic parts they replace/attach to, or is it more complex than that?

Not really a ton more complex, just more work. There's generally more room for error the way they're manufactured so you'll likely need to fix shark issues with the parts, maybe modify some slightly to fit properly. Also they clearly need painting.
More work, not necessarily more difficult (and as has been said, breathing protection is a must!)

This one in particular you'd need to find a PG Zaku II kit, or buy the "A-frame" resin kit for the frame.

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

Pierson posted:

Does anyone airbrush in a small-ish room? If so what do you do for ventilation? My understanding is lacquer like Mr Color requires a lot of ventilation and space so that's probably entirely out. Would a relatively small unit like https://tinyurl.com/yyf7658w or DIY equivalent be suitable for it or should I consider using acrylics? The main thing attracting me to Mr Color is that they just straight-up have a line of "yeah this is all for Gunpla and we labelled everything for you to keep it simple".

I used to have a redneck spray booth I made out of an old plastic storage bin and a bathroom vent fan which was... serviceable.

I now have a booth my wife bought for me last Father's Day with it's own ventilation. Not sure the exact model but it's similar to this one:
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOHOME-Portable-Airbrush-Lights-Filter/dp/B07X9M35VJ/

I have my painting desk by the window and just need to route the exhaust through a crack in the window and go to town. I also make sure to wear a respirator when I'm painting with lacquer or any clear coat.

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!
Finished yet another EG Grandpa yesterday. I really like the way the green came out (all colors are mica powders mixed with clear)









I also made a low-effort display at work





Fake edit: I did realize that I left the head piece with the camera and emblem on the runner last night, I'll need to get it painted and snapped in later this week.

SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

Bill Posters posted:

One of the builds with which I am most pleased is a straight lineart build of the GM Cannon Space type where the only modification (besides paint and waterslides) was to delete the arm mounting holes.



Now I'm going to just be staring at the holes in all my completed kits.

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SnakesRevenge
Dec 29, 2008

Remember the basics of CQC, Snake!

JoeGlassJAw posted:





tl,dr; gunpla is freedom

Fantastic work, these look great!

I really need to start learning to pose/display my gunplas better, it's so hard to keep them from just looking stiff.

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