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Steelion
Aug 2, 2009
The trick to getting marks is to wait until they nerf the tank and then play a game in it to make the game recalculate your mark % with your old stats vs the new average!

Worked for my 304, I went from 85% to 97% in one game. Also worked for my T-34, although they didn't nerf it- the average quality of play for that week just went down so my rating jumped from 94 to 98% after one game.

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Steelion
Aug 2, 2009
https://tanks.gg/tank/t69/stats?cs=progetto-46

The site can't really properly compare the reload times, but the Progetto looks to have the advantage in almost every area.

Steelion
Aug 2, 2009
The SU-100Y is not a good tank, but it is pretty fantastic loading it up with gold ammo and obliterating anything lower tier.

Steelion
Aug 2, 2009
FWIW I think you got hit more times in those three games than I did in ~20, and definitely for more damage.

Steelion
Aug 2, 2009
I took my IS-7 into the north town and did pretty well for myself shooting tanks

Steelion
Aug 2, 2009

EponymousMrYar posted:

75mm of flat armor that will get your fuel tanks blown up if they miss your tracks.

And BS it's not part of the damage model. Every time I've had problems penning a KV-1 from the front I've shot it in the driver's port. Every time I've gone 'wtf how are they penning me' there's a suspicious amount of holes around my driver's port.

https://tanks.gg/tank/kv-1/model

That blue bit in the front represents (one of) the optics modules, and though it is listed as 0 armor, it is not a weak spot since the armor behind it is still 75mm. The hatch used to be a weakspot, but that was removed some time ago- most people still shoot at it out of habit, since it's a reliable target to aim at.

By switching the tab in the top left to "live" you can also see how angling the tank changes the armor thickness (by default, assuming you're shooting at the the tank with it's own gun). Notice how much you can angle the tank before any part of the side armor is the same color (and therefore chance to pen) as any part of the front.

Steelion
Aug 2, 2009
Fun fact- the E100 has similar "ears" on the turret, albeit much smaller. The fun part is that unlike the T29, the ears on the E100 do not actually have armor underneath them- if you ever run into an angled E100 at extremely close range, and can't punch through anywhere, aim for the ears- if you shoot them right near where they meet the turret, you'll only have to break through 170mm or so of armor! The little bar on top of the turret is also a weakspot, but that's even harder to hit, especially on short tanks.

This fun fact is not super useful, because the target area is really goddamn tiny, but I have managed to pull it off a couple times- E100 drivers don't tend to move much when they've hunkered down and angled, though, so it's easier than you might think if you're on the other side of a wall or something.

e: also yeah the KV only really has armor against lower tier tanks, unfortunately- although even against those higher tier guns sidescraping around a corner might be your best bet- their guns will go right through the front, but the sides are still thick enough to avoid triple-overmatch mechanics.

Steelion fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Apr 14, 2018

Steelion
Aug 2, 2009
Right, but the T29's ears actually have armor underneath them instead of 0 armor areas.

Steelion
Aug 2, 2009
I like it when they introduce new gimmicks and mechanics for tanks, even if they're bad, as opposed to more TVPs.

Steelion
Aug 2, 2009
Theoretically a light tank's superior camo, especially on the move, means it can more safely scout the enemy without being spotted back.

In practice, you're trying to outspot mediums and other lights that are parked behind one or more bushes, which means you will almost always get outspotted, and won't even see the things spotting you unless they open fire (and usually not even then).

Steelion
Aug 2, 2009
The defender is one of the few tier 8s that can actually stand up to tier 10 guns, on account of having ~350mm frontal armor if you can cover up the lower plate at all.

Steelion
Aug 2, 2009
Basically when you hit the "drop skills" button or whatever it's called, it unlearns all your skills and perks, and dumps all your accumulated skill XP into a giant pile. If you spend gold, you keep that entire pile. If you spend silver, you can keep 80% of the pile. Free retraining only keeps 50%. Afterwards, you can reassign your skills with the remaining pile of XP.

Since each skill costs increasingly large amounts of XP to advance, losing some % of the pile can have unexpected effects on how well you can retrain after dumping your skills. If you have one skill at 100%, and a second skill at 40% or so, then when it dumps all that experience into the pile, 80% of that pile is about enough to immediately retrain one skill back to 100%.

This can be useful to know, since it means you can train a crewman in a skill such as repairs, train them in a second skill (such as camo, or smooth ride, or whatever else) up to 40%, then dump your skills and silver-retrain into a perk such as sixth sense, at 100%. It does take longer to get a 100% perk this way, though, compared to just immediately beginning to train it when you hit 100% qualification, but you get the benefit of whatever crew skills you select in the meantime.

Dropping skills does not have any effect on your crews actual "qualification" level, but it can boost your crews qualification level if, say, you retrain them for a different tank, then drop skills afterwards. This will again dump all the skill XP into a pile, but it will use whatever part of the pile remains after you shave off 20-50% to fill the qualification XP before it lets you reassign skills and perks.

It's a confusing system, but it does start to make sense after a while.

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Steelion
Aug 2, 2009
textures for tanks that place marks or colored zones over locations that have module or crew hitboxes behind them.

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