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2000 Corolla - The spark plugs were removed for the first time since I bought the car 9 years ago. http://imgur.com/dZjIk20
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Feb 5, 2015 06:24
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| # ? May 7, 2024 18:17 |
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Whoever put those in is an idiot for using Bosch +4s in a 1ZZ. That gunk is there because 1ZZs always burn oil.
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Feb 5, 2015 06:29
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Put some good NGKs or whatever it came with in and call it good.
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Feb 5, 2015 07:56
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I wonder what the rest of the car looks like if you haven't checked the plugs in nine years  Get NGK's and you're probably gonna need a cap/rotor/wires as well if you haven't replaced those in nine years either.
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Feb 5, 2015 08:20
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Tommychu posted:Whoever put those in is an idiot for using Bosch +4s Fixed that for you. Also, yeah, NGK or Denso plugs, don't use anything else. It came with iridium plugs from the factory - the OEM Denso ones are costly (and not usually carried by a lot of parts stores), but NGK Iridium IX are quite a bit cheaper, and they're quality. Seconding leica, get a new cap/rotor/wires while you're at it. There's so much gunk on those plugs that they're hard to read. The second one from the top looks particularly nasty. Does it make coolant mysteriously vanish now and then?
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Feb 5, 2015 08:58
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That engine is COP, so no cap/wires to worry about. The later ZZs actually used NGKs from the factory for some reason (that or my PO got ripped off at some point, because I bought the Vibe about 10k km before the first plug interval and it had NGKs in it that look like they'd been in there a while)
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Feb 5, 2015 15:40
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Get rid of the gimmick +4 plugs and maybe drive it hard every now and then.
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Feb 5, 2015 16:50
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EightBit posted:Get rid of the gimmick +4 plugs and maybe drive it hard every now and then. It's a corolla you don't want to scare it.
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Feb 5, 2015 17:03
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Do the pcv systems gym up on these? Might need a new valve and some hoses, that is way too much ash on there. Granted, they are 9 years old. How's it running by the way?
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Feb 6, 2015 14:42
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I'm losing oil pretty fast, and lately it's been missing/idling rough. When it's in park or neutral it idles rough, someone said it sounds like it's missing. When I turn on the ac the idle rpms increase a little and it smoothes out. When I put it in drive or reverse the idle lowers and it runs very rough. When I lift my foot off the brake I have to immediately give it gas, if not it tends to stall. Sometimes at a red light it starts to idle so rough I think it'll stall, so I switch to neutral, the rpms increase and it smoothes out. There is a little delay from when I press the accelerator until it actually starts to accelerate, it's almost like it lowers rpm for a moment before finally increasing it enough to accelerate. Once I'm going it runs much more smoothly, although seems to lack some power. I've also noticed what looks like soot on the rear bumper above the exhaust. There was another thread on here where people were helping me with a problem where it couldn't go above 60mph. That problem went away when I cleaned the MAF, tightened the hose leading from the air filter to the throttle body and replaced the air filter. I'm very new to learning about vehicles, but I'm eager to learn and to fix as much as I can on my own, or with the assistance of a friend who seems to have every tool I could ever need in his garage. I've done VERY little maintenance in the 9 years that I've owned the car, and by very little I mean a few oil changes, two air filter changes, cleaned the MAF and most recently replaced the spark plugs in the hopes that it would fix this rough idle problem(also because of the look on my friend's face when he realized I hadn't even checked the spark plugs for those 9 years). Oh, I've already replaced the plugs with NGK Iridium IXs, if I recall correctly. That was why I took these ones out. Another question, it was suggested that I drive it hard every now and then. Does that just mean flooring it when accelerating? Also, what exactly does driving it hard do that's beneficial? Edit: I just a got home and noticed that it feels a little worse when the engine is warm. Also I switched to neutral once at a stop light, and it sounded like the idle speed would change a bit every few seconds. Tsioc fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Feb 8, 2015 |
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Feb 7, 2015 23:10
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It can help blow out carbon deposits before they get big enough to cause problems.
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Feb 8, 2015 00:24
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With the idle wavering, that sounds like you probably have a vacuum leak, or otherwise unmetered air getting into the engine. Do you hear any kind of hissing under the hood? It's also possible the idle air control valve (if it has one - I'm pretty sure that year still uses a throttle cable, so it should have one) is gummed up. Considerer winding it out now and then as going out for a jog instead of sitting on the couch eating potato chips. Your body needs exercise, and your car needs exercise. It loosens up a lot of that built up carbon and blows it out of the exhaust, and can help keep the rings free and moving (which can prevent oil consumption from getting worse). I'm not saying drive it like you stole it every time you drive it, but stomping on it to get up to speed now and then won't hurt a thing (especially when getting on the highway; that'll give you a bit more time in the upper RPMs compared to flooring it from a stop). As long as the tach never gets into the red area, you're fine (and the ECU should cut fuel to the engine if for some reason it does get into the red).
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Feb 8, 2015 22:41
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The oil appears to be leaking from somewhere on the back side of the engine towards the passenger side.
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Feb 9, 2015 04:16
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some texas redneck posted:idle air control valve (if it has one - I'm pretty sure that year still uses a throttle cable, so it should have one) Correct. DBW didn't hit these until 05. IAC clogging is unlikely though, since it's reacting well to turning the A/C on. Vacuum leak should be easy enough to check for since these things really didn't have much in the way of emissions gear (not too familiar with the early ones but IIRC mine has evap and PCV and that's it). Is your external oil leak leaving big stains OP? like enough to account for a big chunk of your oil consumption? I'd like to see the results of a compression test on this thing.
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Feb 9, 2015 07:16
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Tommychu posted:Is your external oil leak leaving big stains OP? like enough to account for a big chunk of your oil consumption? I think so, judging by the puddles, and assuming it's also dripping as I drive. I'll have to look into compression tests.
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Feb 9, 2015 09:55
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http://www.harborfreight.com/compression-test-kit-8-pc-69885.html If you can do plugs, you can test your compression. Just pull your fuel pump fuse, pull a plug, thread this in, crank the engine a bit, record the number, squirt a few drops of oil in the cylinder, retest, repeat for the other 3 cylinders. Also clean up the general area of your oil leak really well, then take it for a good half hour drive and you'll be able to pinpoint where that leak is coming from. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Feb 9, 2015 |
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Feb 9, 2015 16:48
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Tommychu posted:Correct. DBW didn't hit these until 05. IAC clogging is unlikely though, since it's reacting well to turning the A/C on. I noticed today that turning on the ac only seems to help when the engine is still cold. After I've been driving a bit and coming to a stop turning the ac off and off doesn't seem to have any effect, and a couple times turning it on actually seemed to make it vibrate a little more.
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Feb 9, 2015 23:11
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| # ? May 7, 2024 18:17 |
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Tommychu posted:http://www.harborfreight.com/compression-test-kit-8-pc-69885.html For more consistent reading, pull all the plugs first and make sure the throttle is held open fully for each test, and crank a similar amount of time. I believe a compression tester is also a loaner item at most parts stores.
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Feb 9, 2015 23:17
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