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IOwnCalculus posted:We're in a world where quick-lube places are charging $100 for a regular five quart change. Yeuuup! The local small engine place here in Northern California charges $100/hr. To which, I don't blame them, and also, I would not work on SE for that rate.
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Mar 18, 2024 22:10
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Water leaked onto the passenger side of my 06 Coupe Mustang GT. It had been raining that day (and still showering when I drove), and I'd used my AC and Heater last night while driving (and hadn't driven it in 12+ hours after that night). I don't think it was coolant, it didn't smell and I'd just assumed it was rain water leaking in before google suggested the heater core and the AC. So, what are my next steps? Do I need to put soapy water on the windshield and blow air on the inside? I can't seem to google where the various drain locations are, which is frustrating, does anyone know, or would a repair manual like a Haynes tell me? Should I run the AC and Heater now that it's not raining and see if it "leaks"? The weather report says it'll rain again Wednesday and I really need my car to not fill with water. Edit: oh, maybe it's this: https://youtu.be/sMOaju3zNlA?si=058bjJ0Tj2JuWX4w Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Mar 18, 2024 |
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Mar 18, 2024 22:34
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cursedshitbox posted:Yeuuup! Yup. Is $1700 of front end work expensive? Yes. Is it fair in the modern market? Probably. This is by far the biggest reason I keep wrenching on my own poo poo. Jack B Nimble posted:Water leaked onto the passenger side of my 06 Coupe Mustang GT. I think it's highly likely that the clogged cowl drains are indeed your problem. A heater core leak is unmistakable because it'll be whatever color your antifreeze is, plus much slicker and stickier to the touch than just water. Your air conditioning evaporator can only generate a relatively small amount of moisture via condensation, though if the HVAC box drain is clogged that could also be an issue. At the very least that job in the video is relatively quick to do, changing your cabin air filter is a good idea anyway, and it would rule that out if you open it up and the drains are completely clear. If the cowl drains are clear, or you clean them out and you still get wet this week, then I'd look for other sources. Does it have a sunroof? Those drains can be clogged very easily. Are the door windows frameless? Check and see how they seat against the rubber weatherstrip on the door frame. The windshield is a bit of a last resort because unless someone did a new windshield on it recently and did a very poor job of replacing it, those generally don't just spring leaks.
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Mar 18, 2024 23:34
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I touched the easy to access drain plug at work before driving to jui Jitsu just now and a bunch of nasty water came out, so it seems to be the case! I'll follow up on it more later but that's heartening!
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Mar 18, 2024 23:43
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Does anyone recognize these seats?  They are in my dad's 34 ford, which is a kit car (not made by him) probably made in the late 80's or early 90's. I think I remember hearing something that they were from an amigo or something similar. I'd love to get some seat covers made up, but a big part of doing that would be finding out what the seats are from. I swapped out his old beat up seat belts today, hence the 2 sets of belts. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Mar 19, 2024 |
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Mar 19, 2024 22:18
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Those look like fiero seats to me:
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Mar 19, 2024 23:06
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Impressive, most impressive.
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Mar 19, 2024 23:16
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C-Bangin' it 
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When the forum works, it works.
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Mar 19, 2024 23:27
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SEATCHAT! Another question about our recently added work van, a 2011 Chevrolet Express 2500 cargo van. It came equipped with a bulkhead and shelves built out in the back, and no other seats besides the driver and passenger seat. We're finding that it's very handy to be able to transport a third person besides the driver and passenger. I called a commercial van place in town and asked about finding and reinstalling one of the three bench seats. They politely declined, because their shop was booked out so far and they wouldn't be able to squeeze in such a small project (good problem for them though). The other thing I considered is putting in a jumpseat in the center up front. I'm seeing $500+ aftermarket seats that are supposed to fit. This rattletrap cost just $7k all-in so I want to do it cheaper than the #vanlife or polygamist pricing. It sounds like there's a lot of parts commonality between that era of GMC vans and trucks (Silverado, Tahoe, Sierra, Yukon). Some on the internet suggest that these will fit in existing bolt holes. Others suggest that you can bolt in literally whatever fits, no problem, just drill a hole in the floor! There's no airbag for the center console so I feel like that's a little too janky for me. This guy locally is selling a center console/jumpseat for $50 he says was pulled from an '01 Silverado. Could this work? Or should I look at reinstalling a first row seat (though I'd have to move/remove the bulkhead and would lose quite a bit of hauling space)?   And a fun bonus that I found while searching for it, a guy on the r/locksmith reddit who replaced his aging work van seats with electric adjusting seats he pulled from a '93 Cadillac DeVille.   https://www.reddit.com/r/Locksmith/comments/13m21m4/i_upgraded_my_higher_mileage_chevy_express_by/ Can't believe he went through all the high effort of actually wiring the seat but left that awful bolt so long and uncapped.
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Mar 19, 2024 23:37
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Krakkles posted:Those look like fiero seats to me: Goddamn I love this forum. Thanks a ton.
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Mar 19, 2024 23:46
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Hopefully this is the right place to ask, I'm looking at installing a carplay/android auto car stereo unit in my Honda Accord 2012. Don't want to spend too much since I primarily just want a screen for backup camera and something to directly connect to a phone for navigation. Anyone know or have experience with the cheaper "podofo" units on Amazon? The price is right about what I'm ok with spending.
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Mar 20, 2024 18:01
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paberu posted:Hopefully this is the right place to ask, I'm looking at installing a carplay/android auto car stereo unit in my Honda Accord 2012. Don't want to spend too much since I primarily just want a screen for backup camera and something to directly connect to a phone for navigation. They have a pretty big variety of units, you'll probably want to be more specific (like, link the one you're looking at). Scrolling through them, it looks like it ranges from things that give you [a screen and a camera and CarPlay] bolted to the top of your dash and fed through existing audio, to pretty low end actual head units. I would probably lean towards the former if your existing audio works well and has an AUX in, because low end head units don't tend to sound very good, and in theory there's no particular reason that would be terrible. I put a low end head unit in a car where I wanted to have a display for the backup camera and CarPlay and I didn't really care to spend money on it, and you can absolutely hear the difference between that and either my midrange headunit in one car or Stock-But-Premium-Option in two others.
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Mar 20, 2024 19:19
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Krakkles posted:There's a better thread here, but: Thank you! I'll make a more detailed post in there.
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Mar 20, 2024 21:04
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I spent quite a long time borrowing a car from family so i could get to work and such, I went and bought a 2011 BMW 320D off a guy at work. I can use the remote to unlock it but pressing the lock, but locking it doesn't seem to work, I have to pull out the little physical key and lock it like a grandpa. The car I was borrowing, I parked it at work and got blocked in one time and had to drive over some grass and then off a curb. The curb was taller than I realised so there was kind of a horrible crunch and grinding noise, I guess it will have scraped paint off underneath the car, maybe something else? What do I check and what do I do?
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Mar 21, 2024 18:57
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it might refuse to lock if the other key is inside the car you probably scraped a plastic piece under the engine that is there to protect the engine from drivers like you. It might have torn or cracked. This happens a lot and the pieces are pretty replaceable usually. You could also have damaged something else, though, like a muffler or the bottom of the oil pan etc. depending on how severely wrong you judged the height of that curb.
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Mar 21, 2024 20:59
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it could also just be the bottom of the bumper cover
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Mar 21, 2024 21:40
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yeah possibly so, and that's another random plastic bit ideally since it's a borrowed car, you should find some way to inspect the underside to see if it's taken significant damage. If you see fluids dripping that'd be a dead giveaway but you could have crunched something nonvital up under there and you should probably get that fixed? How much do you love or hate the person you borrowed the car from? also if it's bad under there maybe they did it first  e. do not just jack up a car and get under it. It needs to be safely on jackstands or ramps, or on a lift. but depending on ride height you might be able to just lie on the ground with a flashlight and look, or use your phone and a selfie stick or something
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Mar 21, 2024 22:29
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I say this with love, if you're not a car person I don't think you'd be able to identify this type of damage under a car with a flashlight etc unless it's so severe that you'd notice the oil first.
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Mar 21, 2024 23:24
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eh I think if the plastic shroud under the engine is dangling off because two of the connectors screws ripped out and it's all torn plastic and poo poo you'd see that pretty quick
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Mar 21, 2024 23:49
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Leperflesh posted:eh I think if the plastic shroud under the engine is dangling off because two of the connectors screws ripped out and it's all torn plastic and poo poo you'd see that pretty quick Yeah fair but I'm imagining the scrapes you see on any car of reasonable age and trying to discern what's new and all that stuff...
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Mar 22, 2024 01:21
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yeah that poo poo is just like, wear and tear, or stuff for a mechanic to inspect
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Mar 22, 2024 01:33
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Anybody know of an online place where I could get a reasonably priced replacement hood for my car? A homeless guy literally jumped onto my hood in an attempt to extort money from me for "hitting" him, and now I have a big rear end dent. I can do the insurance thing, since I have a police report stating he did this, but I don't want my rate to go up so I'd like to diy it if I can find something that isn't insanely priced. And I already checked all the pick n pull places, they don't have the hood for my model car, just most other parts.
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Mar 22, 2024 02:19
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hark posted:Anybody know of an online place where I could get a reasonably priced replacement hood for my car? A homeless guy literally jumped onto my hood in an attempt to extort money from me for "hitting" him, and now I have a big rear end dent. I can do the insurance thing, since I have a police report stating he did this, but I don't want my rate to go up so I'd like to diy it if I can find something that isn't insanely priced. https://www.car-part.com/ lists auto wrecker inventory
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Mar 22, 2024 02:21
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hark posted:Anybody know of an online place where I could get a reasonably priced replacement hood for my car? A homeless guy literally jumped onto my hood in an attempt to extort money from me for "hitting" him, and now I have a big rear end dent. I can do the insurance thing, since I have a police report stating he did this, but I don't want my rate to go up so I'd like to diy it if I can find something that isn't insanely priced. Edit: 
Krakkles fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Mar 22, 2024 |
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Mar 22, 2024 02:22
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As a person that just got a hood replacement with paint for a 2020 miata, it's pretty much OEM. Most total and part-outs are going to have a f'd up hood, so you gotta get a fresh one. Bare hood was $1700 for me and bare trunk was $900, about 500 of paint on each, but my poo poo is racer boy thin aluminum, so your numbers may be a bit lower depending on what car it is.
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Mar 22, 2024 02:22
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Need a sanity check on this used car purchase. Wife is getting a new job, current job includes a company car (fleet vehicle b/c she's in sales and drives all day for work). New job has a car stipend instead, so we must purchase a car for her. We found the likely candidate (2022 with 30k miles), which is at a dealership in Fresno CA (we're in San Diego). Secured financing from our credit union yesterday. Called our insurance company today to add the car to the policy. Then I go to the insurance website to pull the verification of insurance to send to the dealer, and I notice this document shows a current lienholder (credit union in Texas). Dealer says they will pay it down and send the title to our credit union. I assume our credit union would verify the old loan is paid off before they issue theirs, since they don't want to be the second creditor on the thing. I have only ever bought cars cash from a private party or new from a dealer, so I'm not too familiar with buying used from a dealer. Is this typical for used cars from a dealer, for them to not pay off the loan until they complete a resale? I know car dealerships are a pretty low-margin business but I never thought they run cashflows that thin.
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Mar 22, 2024 21:50
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don't buy a car from an entity that doesn't own that car; tell that dealer you'll be happy to pay when they can hand you an unencumbered title on the spot, and not before. They may be able to conduct that transaction on the spot with you in person, but you want a clean title when you walk out, not one with some third party lienholder printed on it
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Mar 22, 2024 22:02
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In theory, what would happen if bawfuls cut the dealer out and paid the lienholder directly? "Hey, FYI, I own that car now, here's my name on the title, hand over the keys please."
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Mar 22, 2024 22:13
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paying the lienholder isn't buying the car, it's settling someone else's debt for them it'd be like if you paid off someone's credit card; that doesn't give you the right to start using it to buy stuff
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Mar 22, 2024 23:06
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I thought most dealers (new and used) used some kind of floorplan financing. I didn't think the bank holds a lien with that. Too much paperwork.
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Mar 23, 2024 03:37
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I got a 2016 Honda Civic. I recently had my wheels swapped out for the end of winter, and they told me to come back to check the torque. When I did they said there were a couple nuts a bit loose and they re-tightened them. I've driven about 95 miles since then with no issues, is there any reason not to suspect that they just screwed up torquing the lugnuts the first time?
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Mar 24, 2024 20:57
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mentholmoose posted:I got a 2016 Honda Civic. I recently had my wheels swapped out for the end of winter, and they told me to come back to check the torque. When I did they said there were a couple nuts a bit loose and they re-tightened them. I've driven about 95 miles since then with no issues, is there any reason not to suspect that they just screwed up torquing the lugnuts the first time? Maybe they did. But it happens regularly. Thats why they tell you to come back to check.
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Mar 24, 2024 21:00
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It’s SOP to retorque lugs after driving a bit.
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Mar 24, 2024 21:05
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That's something you can do yourself with the tools for changing a spare in the trunk even, no need to go back and pay them for 5 minutes work.
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Mar 25, 2024 06:47
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at least in the States most tire places include the re-torque
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Mar 25, 2024 07:21
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This leads me to my own stupid question: I know you should use a torque wrench and tighten your lug nuts to the torque specified in the service manual. But, before I had "thirty bucks at harbor freight" kinda money, I put tens of thousands of miles on lug nuts I tightened by feel. On the other hand, a friend of mine had a wheel fall off his rx-7 on the interstate in rush hour traffic one day, so I know what improperly torqued lug bolts can cause. So: Under what conditions are improperly torqued lug nuts/bolts most risky?
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Mar 25, 2024 08:21
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With a physically weak operator, dirty mounting surfaces, and/or incorrect tightening pattern. I've had two wheels come loose. One I know for a fact what went wrong, my truck tipped the jack over and I was having a very bad day already as it was late at night in the winter, I had to dig a hole in the icy dirt road to get the jack under the frame and jack it up, then put things under the brake drum to hold it up while I moved the jack under the axle to get it high enough to put the wheel back on, and I got muddy slushy salty water all over the axle flange, drum faces, and wheel face in the process. I tightened it correctly but didn't realize that there was debris on the mounting surfaces. Under 100 miles later I felt and heard an odd feeling and pulled over to check and every lug was loose on just that wheel. The other I still do not have a solid answer but all I can think of is one of two things. Either someone maliciously loosened the lug nuts on it (unlikely) or somehow weeks before when I'd last touched those lug nuts I forgot to tighten them correctly on that side. It didn't come loose till we spent like 400 miles driving across the roughest loving highway I've ever driven on, the NYS thruway. It hadn't driven enough miles to hit the 100 mark and get retorqued yet when we left on that trip and by the time we were driving I had other things on my mind, like the fact that I was driving a 45 year old shitheap with less than 60 miles on a complete LS swap, rear axle replacement, and driveshaft made out of plumbing supplies, so I wasn't really thinking about the allegedly reliable backup vehicle on the trip. Every single other time - of the hundred+ times I've swapped wheels on vehicles at this point - I have not used a torque wrench at all, I've tightened them hand tight in a star pattern, then continued tightening them in stages in a star pattern till they feel right to me with a 4 way. I always check at 25* and 100 miles and I've never had more than one feel even slightly looser than I wanted it. And it turns out "tight enough" to my uncalibrated oaf arms is significantly over spec, but less than an idiot with an impact at the tire shop just running them down all the way. The one time I've tried using a torque wrench it felt significantly looser than it should. Is this right? Probably not, and I'm sure I'm going to get jumped on over it. But other than those two weird cases I've never had an issue with it and I've increased my vigilance on rechecks each time, so I'm gonna keep doing that. I'm not convinced that lug torque spec on old vehicles with well-used lug studs and nuts is at all representative of preload anyways, for the same reason you never reuse head bolts more than once. * I started checking at 25 after the unexplained near wheel loss. What that really amounts to is I check it as soon as I get home from wherever I was when I had to change it. Might be 5 miles, might be 25.
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Mar 25, 2024 09:46
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Steel wheels are less forgiving than alloy wheels in my experience. Steelies are thin, and the metal is hard, so you're clamping down on what is functionally similar to a steel washer. An alloy wheel is thicker and has at least a small amount of give to it, so it's a little like torquing down on a spring making things less likely to come loose even if your procedure isn't perfect.
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Mar 25, 2024 11:16
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I have almost only run nothing but steel wheels and changed my own wheels 100% of the time always tightened by feel, always greased the bolts and also the contact surfaces for the wheel. But I am considering buying a torque wrench right now. Looking at a cheapo 40-210 nm model. Possibly complement later with a heavier and lighter model if needed. But I'm gonna be doing some suspension work so I'd like to know I'm in the ballpark.
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Mar 25, 2024 12:11
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Get a torque wrench. All of you. Lug nuts HOLD YOUR WHEELS ON.
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Mar 25, 2024 12:22
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